90s Style: a Blue UFO

I cut out this dress last September -- and put it aside once winter sewing commenced. But PatternReview is having a "UFO" contest this month, encouraging us to finish up those unfinished projects lying around. It was just the push I needed to get back to this one! It is Simplicity 8346, from 1993.

I loved this print -- though it's unfortunately a poly blend -- and decided to make a simple dress in the late 80s/90s style that I always like. I had this pattern in my stash from one of my thrifting trips, and thought it would be a good one to try out. 

I shortened the bodice by 3/4", but I think I would leave it as is if I made it again, for a little more blousing. And I shortened the skirt by 1/2", which was just about right for me. 

This is a quick and easy pattern (if you don't let it sit half done for 6 months or more!). It has cut on sleeves, a back neck slit, and elastic casing in the waist. I really like the pockets - they are poche italienne style, rather than side seam, and I prefer those in general, for look and functionality. 

The only weird thing about this pattern is the neckline facing. The back bodice has a centre seam, and the facing is also cut in two, so you end up having to sew to a marked point on the back slit, then turn in and hand sew the rest of the facing together. It's an odd way to do it -- if I made this again I would switch it up to have a normal all in one facing. Maybe even remove the back centre seam while I was at it! This time I was happy that my little button loop worked, and that I found a perfect random button in my button tin to use. 

In any case, I'm really happy with it. The fit is nice, the fabric is pretty, and it's a simple pull-on dress, which I enjoy in the summer. Pleased to get this off the UFO pile and into the closet! I have one more UFO project that I'm working on, and hoping to finish this month. We'll see! 

Weekend Review: Narrative Textiles

 

Narrative Textiles / Ailish Henderson
London: Batsford, c2024.
128 p.

Another book I picked up through my library, this one looks at stitching and mixed media work from the viewpoint of storytelling. It's by a UK author, and has that particular UK sensibility to it - lots of distressed, vintage fabrics, a kind of "messy" style, and in this case, a lot of focus on family history and stories. 

It's not a project book, per se, more of an inspirational one. While the author shares many of her projects and how-tos are included, it feels like more of a study of how to incorporate physical family textiles and materials into a more idea driven project focused on communicating a narrative. So, lots of info on preparation - which materials to use, where to find them, WHY you're using them and what you are trying to share. Whether you're focusing on family, travels, pets, personal identity/self-portraits, or similar themes, there's a technique that you'll be able to use, or at least be inspired by. 

It's a beautiful book, as Batsford publications so often are. There are full page, detailed photos of projects and lots of lovely studio shots too. Henderson incorporates her own family story and her poetry into the book, and it makes it feel quite relatable. The projects/techniques are also accessible, as they don't require specialist studio equipment, just things that stitchers might have already, or which are easily sources. 

I'm not sure it's inspired any immediate work for me, but I did enjoy it, and some of the concepts were things I want to remember. If you are interested in stitching family stories or investigating identity through textile work, this is one you would really enjoy as well. 

You can find an interview with Ailish Henderson on the podcast Stitchery Stories to hear more about her work. 

Things I Didn't Buy from the Thrift!

I enjoy thrifting but my sewing stash of fabric, notions & patterns is getting pretty full up. So I am trying to be judicious about new purchases. It's nearly as fun just to take photos of things I *could* buy! 

I found a few things in my recent travels around the thrift stores that I would not have purchased in any case, as they weren't my style. But they were so cute! There were a bunch of 100% cotton sheets & linens that someone with the right aesthetic could make a wardrobe from. I saw 2 black & white pieces that went well together.  

There was a heavier weight pink gingham curtain that would make a pretty fitted skirt or cropped jacket.

And the most amazing trio of  complementary fabrics that could provide a summer capsule. Not in my style zone but so pretty together.  

I'm glad I have discovered how fun it is to imagine someone else enjoying a thrifted find instead of buying it all myself 😂

Foxy Patterns' Bria Dress: It's a Real Green Dress!

I recently tested a dress pattern, the Bria by Foxy Patterns. I haven't done any testing for a long time but this was an interesting design so I signed up. It was an interesting process, and Foxy Patterns made some changes in response to tester feedback - and the pattern is now live if you like it too, and want to try making it now! 

This was my tester dress - I only have to redo the neckline a little, as it gapes a bit in the front. This was an issue that she has fixed in the final pattern. I made the dress version with the short, tulip sleeve option. I also made it with the slit, but closed that up once the test process was done. I have short legs, and didn't feel like the slit really looked or felt great on me. 

I really love how it went together. It was easy, with some nice details (optional front slit, sleeve options, top view with side zip, etc) that could make it a pattern that you could get a few different looks from. I found the instructions pretty clear, and the steps quite logical. 

I used a rayon from my stash, which I picked up at a thrift store a while back. There was just enough of it for this project, and the drapy nature of the fabric works very well with this design. I will have to wear a slip, though, as the fabric is a bit see-through in the skirt, but lining it would have added too much weight - and also, I was trying to follow the pattern closely since it was a test make, so didn't want to add in anything besides basic fit adjustments (mostly shortening the bodice & skirt, as usual for me). I may also go back in and add some pockets, I haven't quite decided yet! 

In any case, this pattern is now available and I may make another with a few more personal taste changes if I do. I really like the fit and the sleeves are a great look, in my opinion. 

Weekend Review: Elevate Your Scrap Sewing Projects

 

Elevate Your Scrap Sewing Projects / Sallieann Harrison

Mount Joy, PA: Landauer Publishing, c2023 

215 p

A rather random reading choice today, but this is one I came across in my library and was pleasantly surprised by! It's a book of projects to use scraps, mostly quilting scraps, and the projects are mainly home decor and accessories, but there are some intriguing techniques that could also be adapted for garment details. 

The book is pretty to look at, and definitely scrappy; the author shares some new ideas with a modern, pretty aesthetic. The author is UK based, so there are lots of Liberty scraps in evidence here -- it's a pretty book to flip through! 

It starts out with an "About Me" to introduce the author a bit, then has a "Tools Tips Techniques" chapter which goes over quite a lot of the basics. It makes it easy for the beginner sewist to feel confident trying the projects. The projects themselves have a range of difficulties, and are shown clearly with lots of photos of process and finished project, and they have pretty good instructions. There is a mix of fabric manipulation and more straightforward quilting projects, as well as a couple of other styles of project. 

The 10 projects are: 

• Basket Weave Cushion or mini Quilt
• Pleated Bucket Bag
• Summer Cushion 
• Woven Cork Pouch
• Rope Basket
• Sallieann Flower Quilt
• Japanese Origami Cushion
• Heart Strings Pouch
• Christmas Presents Mini Quilt 

There is a bit of repetition -- for example, the fabric pleated bag and cushion use the same techniques, so there is duplication in the instructions. This was the technique I was most interested in though, and the most unusual for me, so I was happy to have two examples to study. 

I liked this one, and it gave me some ideas, always a good thing in a new craft book. It's quite charming and I think the projects are modern enough to appeal widely. You can get a flip through of the whole book with the author in the video below, if you are interested! 

Style Arc Blaire in Upcycled Duvet!

 

I'm very happy with my new Style Arc Blaire blouse! I had a lot of fun making this one. It's the blouse I cut out in April intending to make it for the various upcycling challenges that month - but I have just now had the chance to finish it! 

The lines of this boxy blouse are really interesting -- lots of chance to play with colour and/or print. I picked up this duvet from the thrift store a few months ago, finding the print irresistible. It's a lightweight cotton-poly blend, quite crisp but not a heavy fabric. Perfect for this blouse, both for the stripe play and for the double layer required on the bottom part of the pattern. 

I found this a straightforward pattern for Style Arc. The instructions are of course quite sparse, being Style Arc. But they are logical, and there are some illustrations for the more confusing bits, which was very helpful. The most unique thing about this pattern is that the bottom piece is two layers: the inner is a straight bottom band , and the outer has a large U-shaped cutout on the sides, to highlight the underlayer, whether that is stripes in a different direction, like mine, or any colour blocking you might be doing. It's quite fun! I did find the U angle a bit hard to hem neatly, but that could be because my fabric has zero give at all. In a cotton or linen you might be able to smooth out the curves a little more easily. But my fabric is so busy it hides the small wrinkles so it all works out LOL! 

I love the cut on sleeve as well, it's just the right size for my preferences. There is a sleeve cuff, which gave me another option to play with stripe direction. The instructions are to sew the outer cuff, turn it under and stitch in the ditch to catch the inside. With the small size and angles I thought that would be too fussy for me, so I just sewed the cuff on in one go with a zigzag finish and pressed toward the bodice. That was very easy and gives a tidy finish as well. 

I was really lucky to find the perfect buttons in my stash. I had a card of vintage buttons that were just the right size and finish for this blouse. I had another set in mind at first, but found they were too shiny and distracted from the black tones of the blouse. These ones are matte and have just a little extra interest to them. I love how they run down the white stripe on the button placket. 

This is super comfortable - the fit is great. The only alterations I made were just for length - I added 2" to the bottom sections only. I like this length and the whole vibe is a lot of fun. I'm really happy with this one, so glad I finished it :) 

Free Patterns on my mind, inspired by SewFrugal26

The SewFrugal Challenge ran in May this year, and it is always an inspiring one for me! I had so many ideas for this year's challenge. I have a lot of free patterns in my collection to choose from -- I went through my options before finally deciding to make the Kelly Watch the Stars top by Festive Road as shown in my last post. 

But here were some others that I considered as well! 

Tiana's Closet has a ton of free patterns. I looked at, and even downloaded, three tops - the Isla, Basilie, & Nomi. I also looked at the Madera dress and may end up trying that someday also, it has nice lines! 

I have the ITS Deba Topper in my stash and think it will be a useful addition to the summer wardrobe. Just couldn't find the right fabric for it this time around. 

I also even briefly considered the Hanbok vest Baeja, a free pattern by Sewing Therapy. But I'm not sure how it would fit into my style so didn't go for it after all. 

The last one I considered making was the Manhattan Top by Sewing and the City (which you can get for free when you subscribe to her newsletter). It's so cute & can be made as a dress, too.

And of course, once all the #SewFrugal26 posts were shared for all the amazing things that others were making, I got even more cool ideas for further free projects in future! Here are a few I am eager to try later on.

I liked the look of the Declic Top by Atelier Scammit as a simple summer top. This was new to me. Quite a few people made this one and it looked great on everyone. 

The Janet Celeste Zero Waste Top was also new to me. It's just the kind of design I like, and now I want to try it too. 

Another discovery was the Maeve Dress by Violette Field Threads. This is a flowy summery style and might be fun to try. (It's also available in child and tween sizes if you sew for younger people).

And I had forgotten about Imby's Flowy Top from Karmme Apparel -- I will have to investigate that one again for another summery option. 

Do you have a favourite free sewing pattern to recommend?