Fashion at the Gallery : a Guild Visit

Sometimes my local Garment Guild has meetings that are more like outings! To close this season we had a tour of a fashion exhibit newly installed at Gallery Stratford.

  This is a pop-up exhibit by the Fashion History Museum, which doesn't currently have a permanent home -- although it will soon have a retail & workshop space open right in our downtown. 

Curator Jonathan Walford gave us a tour & it was so fun to hear the stories behind the French couture pieces in the show, from Worth to Courreges. There were some amazing pieces - Balmain, probable Balenciaga (the original), Karl Lagerfeld, a Dior, Jeanne Lanvin and much more. Even a gown by the Callot Soeurs! We all enjoyed it so much. 

If you are going to be in Stratford before it closes on October 11, try to see it. The other 2 exhibits on are also fascinating - one on jewelry inspired by Canadian women, & one on historical photography. All so beautiful! 

Inspired by Measha Brueggergosman

Weekend Review: Margaret's New Look

 

Margaret's New Look / Katherine Ashenburg
TO: Knopf Canada, c2025.
296 p.

I really wanted to like this book by Canadian author Ashenburg. And there were some great things about it that I enjoyed, and so finished the story. But as a whole I didn't end up loving it, for a couple of reasons. But what is it about? 

Margaret, a curator, is putting on a big show about Dior. The story takes place all during the planning and lead-up to the exhibition's opening. It starts with her at work, heading to a meeting, where we find out about all the characters and the workplace politics that will shape her future. Then we see her at home, where her writer husband and two youngish daughters are introduced. And we hear about her family - especially her father, who never admitted to his Jewish heritage but now it seems pretty obvious to Margaret and her sisters. 

Margaret also has connections with a man who is able to source some Dior pieces for her, through an elderly lady she finally gets to meet, and she discovers that this woman was a petit main in Dior's workshops in her youth. Very convenient for finding out more for her exhibit! 

There were a lot of threads to this story, and unfortunately I didn't find it very successful. The parts about Dior and his controversial history (mostly around WWII, his sister's war, his focus on fashion during the Nazi regime etc) were interesting, but I already knew everything she mentioned, from other history books. The fact dumping really felt like it would have been better served in a nonfiction approach. If a reader was completely new to this history, though, it might feel more compelling. There was a good core to the story, which kept me reading to the end. 

However, I felt that the characters and the plot were clunky and often flat. It was easy to guess how the story was going to unfold (not much mystery there) and the element of Margaret both being very concerned about her father's possible Jewish heritage and at the same time seeming so oblivious to it all was confusing. I didn't feel that that element was clearly explored. 

So a mixed review, I guess - the idea of the novel was interesting and the look at Dior's fashion world was great. But the characters did not catch me; I like to read for characters and great writing, and neither of these was really present in this book. 

Make Nine: Mid-year Reckoning

It is now halfway through the year and time to look back at my Make Nine plans from the beginning of the year! How am I doing so far?

Well, looking at what I put on to that list, not so great 😄 I average 3/9 per year but I might have to work to get there this year -- I have only completed one item off that plan so far. 

I made New Look 6476, an 80s pattern from my stash. It's a very cute & comfortable top. 

I think the 2 repro 80s dresses and/or the ITS Vikos should make it to my summer sewing list. Adding to my Make Nine totals... 

I do have fabric in mind for the Vikos so I should probably start there. But there are always so many distractions from a plan! 

90s Style: a Blue UFO

I cut out this dress last September -- and put it aside once winter sewing commenced. But PatternReview is having a "UFO" contest this month, encouraging us to finish up those unfinished projects lying around. It was just the push I needed to get back to this one! It is Simplicity 8346, from 1993.

I loved this print -- though it's unfortunately a poly blend -- and decided to make a simple dress in the late 80s/90s style that I always like. I had this pattern in my stash from one of my thrifting trips, and thought it would be a good one to try out. 

I shortened the bodice by 3/4", but I think I would leave it as is if I made it again, for a little more blousing. And I shortened the skirt by 1/2", which was just about right for me. 

This is a quick and easy pattern (if you don't let it sit half done for 6 months or more!). It has cut on sleeves, a back neck slit, and elastic casing in the waist. I really like the pockets - they are poche italienne style, rather than side seam, and I prefer those in general, for look and functionality. 

The only weird thing about this pattern is the neckline facing. The back bodice has a centre seam, and the facing is also cut in two, so you end up having to sew to a marked point on the back slit, then turn in and hand sew the rest of the facing together. It's an odd way to do it -- if I made this again I would switch it up to have a normal all in one facing. Maybe even remove the back centre seam while I was at it! This time I was happy that my little button loop worked, and that I found a perfect random button in my button tin to use. 

In any case, I'm really happy with it. The fit is nice, the fabric is pretty, and it's a simple pull-on dress, which I enjoy in the summer. Pleased to get this off the UFO pile and into the closet! I have one more UFO project that I'm working on, and hoping to finish this month. We'll see! 

Weekend Review: Narrative Textiles

 

Narrative Textiles / Ailish Henderson
London: Batsford, c2024.
128 p.

Another book I picked up through my library, this one looks at stitching and mixed media work from the viewpoint of storytelling. It's by a UK author, and has that particular UK sensibility to it - lots of distressed, vintage fabrics, a kind of "messy" style, and in this case, a lot of focus on family history and stories. 

It's not a project book, per se, more of an inspirational one. While the author shares many of her projects and how-tos are included, it feels like more of a study of how to incorporate physical family textiles and materials into a more idea driven project focused on communicating a narrative. So, lots of info on preparation - which materials to use, where to find them, WHY you're using them and what you are trying to share. Whether you're focusing on family, travels, pets, personal identity/self-portraits, or similar themes, there's a technique that you'll be able to use, or at least be inspired by. 

It's a beautiful book, as Batsford publications so often are. There are full page, detailed photos of projects and lots of lovely studio shots too. Henderson incorporates her own family story and her poetry into the book, and it makes it feel quite relatable. The projects/techniques are also accessible, as they don't require specialist studio equipment, just things that stitchers might have already, or which are easily sources. 

I'm not sure it's inspired any immediate work for me, but I did enjoy it, and some of the concepts were things I want to remember. If you are interested in stitching family stories or investigating identity through textile work, this is one you would really enjoy as well. 

You can find an interview with Ailish Henderson on the podcast Stitchery Stories to hear more about her work. 

Things I Didn't Buy from the Thrift!

I enjoy thrifting but my sewing stash of fabric, notions & patterns is getting pretty full up. So I am trying to be judicious about new purchases. It's nearly as fun just to take photos of things I *could* buy! 

I found a few things in my recent travels around the thrift stores that I would not have purchased in any case, as they weren't my style. But they were so cute! There were a bunch of 100% cotton sheets & linens that someone with the right aesthetic could make a wardrobe from. I saw 2 black & white pieces that went well together.  

There was a heavier weight pink gingham curtain that would make a pretty fitted skirt or cropped jacket.

And the most amazing trio of  complementary fabrics that could provide a summer capsule. Not in my style zone but so pretty together.  

I'm glad I have discovered how fun it is to imagine someone else enjoying a thrifted find instead of buying it all myself 😂

Foxy Patterns' Bria Dress: It's a Real Green Dress!

I recently tested a dress pattern, the Bria by Foxy Patterns. I haven't done any testing for a long time but this was an interesting design so I signed up. It was an interesting process, and Foxy Patterns made some changes in response to tester feedback - and the pattern is now live if you like it too, and want to try making it now! 

This was my tester dress - I only have to redo the neckline a little, as it gapes a bit in the front. This was an issue that she has fixed in the final pattern. I made the dress version with the short, tulip sleeve option. I also made it with the slit, but closed that up once the test process was done. I have short legs, and didn't feel like the slit really looked or felt great on me. 

I really love how it went together. It was easy, with some nice details (optional front slit, sleeve options, top view with side zip, etc) that could make it a pattern that you could get a few different looks from. I found the instructions pretty clear, and the steps quite logical. 

I used a rayon from my stash, which I picked up at a thrift store a while back. There was just enough of it for this project, and the drapy nature of the fabric works very well with this design. I will have to wear a slip, though, as the fabric is a bit see-through in the skirt, but lining it would have added too much weight - and also, I was trying to follow the pattern closely since it was a test make, so didn't want to add in anything besides basic fit adjustments (mostly shortening the bodice & skirt, as usual for me). I may also go back in and add some pockets, I haven't quite decided yet! 

In any case, this pattern is now available and I may make another with a few more personal taste changes if I do. I really like the fit and the sleeves are a great look, in my opinion.