Weekend Review: Zero Waste Patterns

 

Zero Waste Patterns / Birgitta Helmerson
London: Quadrille, c2023.
192 p.

I've been looking forward to this new Zero Waste book by Birgitta Helmersson, and was happy to find it in my library. I enjoyed looking through it, and reading her background to how and why she got to the Zero Waste pattern making stage. I also enjoyed the layout; logical structure and lots of nice large photographs of various models wearing the projects. 

The subtitle of the book is "20 Projects to Sew Your Own Wardrobe". There are 20 projects by virtue of variations on 5 basic blocks - Tee, Trouser, Singlet, Skirt and Shirt. They are all in the traditional zero waste aesthetic - natural fibres, no prints, very loosely fitting with not many shaping options in them. And elastic waist skirts and trousers. If you like this aesthetic or can see past the oatmeal/beige colours, I think this will be a great book for you! 

The instructions are well laid out, with cutting diagrams all fairly large and clear, including coloured notations for folds, slits or other special things to note. There are a handful of actual patterns for facings, pockets etc but these are so minimal that they are all printed inside the front and back covers (double fold covers) to trace off. She also explains the sizing of each pattern and the limitations when using the width of fabric as the base for a pattern (sizes are UK 6-30/US 2-26). There are suggestions given to enlarge a pattern when needed, by adding side panels or other ideas. But the fitting is pretty loose on most of these items also.

Unfortunately for me personally, I'm not really a fan of this kind of really oversize, boxy clothing. There is one variation on the shirt block that was interesting to me, as it has longer gathered sleeves and a bit more interest in detail. But I don't think I'm that likely to try any of these out very soon. I appreciate this book, though, and can see how the right reader will find this very helpful, as it not only has pattern charts but quite a lot of information on the zero waste approach. And it's pretty! 

I was glad to have the chance to read this through my library, and appreciate the availability of this kind of sewing book. 

Weekend Review: Zero Waste Fashion Design

 

Zero Waste Fashion Design / Timo Rissanen & Holly McQuillan
London: Bloomsbury, c2016.
223 p.

I requested this book via Interlibrary Loan after reading about it in Liz Haywood's Zero Waste Sewing. She mentions that these makers inspired her to design with zero waste techniques, and so I wanted to check it out too. 

It's fascinating, but quite dense. It's noted that this is focused on being a textbook for fashion designers and students, and if you were either I think this book would be invaluable. For home sewists with an interest in the area it is a bit overwhelming! But, as mentioned, still pretty intriguing. If you have an interest in sustainable fashion, this would be a great addition to your reading.

The book goes over many areas of zero waste - history and basics of zero waste designs, pattern cutting and manufacturing zero waste garments including using digital technologies, adapting existing designs for zero waste, and looking forward in the design field. Lots of information and a wealth of illustrations of finished designs as well as cutting layouts are given. In between there are interviews with designers who use these techniques or are experts in pattern cutting - from Winifred Aldrich to Yeohlee and many more. These were interesting and added a lot to the reading experience. You can find a complete list of the contents on the publisher's page if you want to get a closer look at what's inside.

If you're confident with how to put together zero waste patterns from the pieces on a diagram, you might be able to make a few of the pieces illustrated in the book. If not, it's just a great start to understanding the concepts and purposes of zero waste design. I find that many of the designs are pretty shapeless and bulky for my own tastes so will keep watching the zero waste space for future growth. I know that already, Liz Haywood has been able to design some pieces that are more fitted and "traditional" looking so I'm sure that style will develop further. But just reading the interviews and the explanations of various collections was informative and worth the time to explore this book.

Definitely worth taking a look at this one if you can find it in your own library. It is rather expensive so probably best purchased if you're a fashion student or someone interested in designing your own zero waste patterns. 

Weekend Review: Zero Waste Sewing

 

Zero Waste Sewing / Elizabeth Haywood
Clare, South Australia: Cooatalaa Press, 2020.
142 p.

If you're interested in sustainability and the idea of zero waste sewing, this homey book is a must read! Liz Haywood is a patternmaker from Australia, with years of experience in pattern cutting and design, and she's been investigating zero waste for a while. This book offers 16 patterns and variations for sewists to give this a try -- if you're new to zero waste, as I am, I can assure you that there are a variety of styles here, and they are very approachable. 

You can find a lot of info about this book at Liz Haywood's website, The Craft of Clothes, as well as lots of other fascinating content and some free patterns to try out. She also has an Etsy store where you can buy her books and many other patterns not in this book. Lots to explore! 

But on to the book. Here are the patterns included (from her website):

The photos are clear, and feel like blog photos - real people wearing interesting clothes, and inspirational in a down to earth way. I like the vibe a lot. The patterns are diagrams, with lots of sketches and lots of explanations of how they work and how you put things together. 

It's broken up into sections, or themes: making tops from squares of fabric, one-seam cuts, and tessellated layouts. She goes into detail, particularly in the one seam section, about the traditional and historical roots of this kind of clothing design. From the infamous Bog Coat to traditional kimonos and more, one seam garments are found throughout history. I enjoyed the context she shares about the techniques and background to her own designs. 

This is the pattern I'm most eager to try - the first one in the book, the Tie Front Top. I love that it doesn't look bulky or voluminous. I was hoping to have one made by the time I reviewed this book, but I didn't get there. 

I was impressed by the variety of designs in the book and the generous sharing of information in each section. Sometimes I find that Zero Waste designs just look odd and billowy in a way that doesn't appeal to me, but not here. Liz Haywood spoke to our local Garment Guild recently, and I was inspired by her breadth of knowledge and seemingly endless ideas. 

Really a solid book, immediately useful and giving a great introduction to an area of sewing that is still fairly new. Recommended!

Zero Waste Sewing

 

My Envelope Dress

This month our Stratford Garment Guild speaker was Liz Haywood, all the way from Australia (the joys of Zoom!) She shared her vast knowledge of zero waste sewing, and really inspired us. Zero waste is a new area for me and so it's all really fascinating -- how it means you have to think about design differently, and the potential for a lot less wasted fabric, not only for home sewists but for the industry. So much to think about. 

The only zero waste pattern I've made thus far is the Envelope Dress by Criswood Sews I used a thrifted fabric for this one and used nearly all of it. It was a fun project and since the summer of 2020 when I made this one, I've seen many more zero waste patterns released. There are so many options to try out! I've ordered Liz Haywood's book Zero Waste Sewing for more info as well. 

There are also great podcasts on the topic to investigate if you're interested in more on this subject. You can listen to them and find all sorts of links on their show notes pages. 

Sew and Tell had a very recent episode on zero waste with lots of fun banter.

Check Your Thread, a podcast all about sustainability in sewing, had a solid episode on this theme last November. 

Love To Sew had a zero waste episode last spring, and the show notes are extensive.

And Sew Organised Style, an Australian podcast, featured a full interview with Liz Haywood on this topic last year. It really is a cool topic to explore -- I hope you'll have fun with it!

A Tropical Envelope Dress

I have been meaning to make this dress for a few weeks now -- I just had to decide on the right fabric! It's the Envelope Dress by Criswood Sews, a zero waste project.

I first saw this pattern on Instagram, where it was made up in linens & natural tones, and so I thought I would use a brick red linen in my stash. But I just wasn't feeling it. Then I saw this thrifted tropical print. The recommended fabrics for this pattern are solids, but I thought I would give this large scale print a try.

The worry with a print like this is that the flowers will end up where you don't want them. Despite checking my panels first I still got a little too close to chestal foliage. But I think it's still wearable; it's not so noticeable in real life & in movement. I really like how the neckline falls and forms pleat-like folds, and the overall look.

The pattern is more of a tutorial with measurements given either for a one-size-fits-all option or one based on your own measurements. I used my own measurements to get it slightly bigger, which worked out well.

The width of your fabric is the length of your dress,  so this 44" fabric was perfect for me. The length of the fabric is the width of the dress, so when I cut a slice off the end to get my chosen size I had enough to cut some side seam pockets & a tie belt.

I'm glad I did because I like it better with the belt. I like it loose for the poolside, maybe, but for everyday wearing I think I'll go for the belted look.

It's a fun pattern to puzzle out, and depending on your fabric it can be zero waste. I only have a little 8" square left over,  along with the scraps of my pocket pieces. Very little! When finishing I decided not to hem it but to leave the selvage on the bottom as is -- it has such a pretty silky fringe.

I have two other measurements based caftan patterns to try next, one from Sew News magazine & one from Burdastyle. It's just the fabric choice slowing me down!