Making over Knit Dresses

As some long-term readers might know, one of my favourite knit patterns is Kwik Sew 3559, an older OOP pattern that I've made 10+ times. Two of my 3559 dress versions haven't been worn much, so I decided to remake them into tee length tops instead. I really need more comfy tees, and these were easy fixes. 

The first was a plain black short sleeved version. I never wore this, as I had added a band on the bottom to get it to the right length, and somehow it just didn't sit right. The hem curled up after a couple of wears and I just couldn't sort it. Perfect candidate for a chop! I sewed the pocket openngs shut from the inside & then cut off the pocket bags. This one I cut to a high hip tee length, and just ironed on some knit interfacing to keep the hem smooth, I didn't sew it at all. Quick and easy, and will mostly be worn under a cardigan or jacket anyhow. 

The second one was a little bit fussier. This knit is really lightweight and springy, which is why it never worked well as a dress. I wore it a couple of times, but I found that once I put the sash on, the back of it clung to my bottom more than I liked. Also it is a bit static which doesn't help. So I wasn't reaching for it often, but I love the pretty fabric and how soft it is to wear. I thought if I made it over into a tunic, I wouldn't be tying it around my waist and the fabric could fall more naturally. So I did the same with the pockets - sewed the seam shut and then cut off the pocket bags. I then measured down from the yoke and cut this one a bit longer than the black one. I also added hem tape to the bottom of this. 

I then took the 9" that I cut off and sewed into a tube for a quick infinity style scarf that I can add to this if I want a little extra coverage or just a different look. This was fun to do and I'm glad I could use the fabric for another piece. I think I will get a lot more wear out of this tunic version! 

Side Tie Tee, Burda 09-2019-115

I bought this lovely jersey fabric in 2018 at the Stratford PR Weekend, with this fun multicolour print that reminds me of coffee beans! And I know that at least two other PR members bought it at the same time :) But I have finally had time to find a pattern that could use it well. 

I picked up my favourite recent issue of Burda Magazine, the September 2019 issue. There are so many great patterns for me in this one! This easy tee was one I really wanted to try. It's basically a loose fitting, long sleeved tee, with the added detail of a tie attached to front and back left side.

I cut a 42/44 blend for this top, adding on a 1/2" seam allowance when cutting it out. I also ended up added another 1/2" or so to the sides at the hip, just to give myself some leeway, and I am glad I did. I love the fit.

The only issue I had with the fit was that I didn't check the neckline well enough before cutting. And it turns out that this is another wide Burda neckline. It was really wide on me, just at the edges of my shoulders. I thought about adding a little triangle of fill-in fabric to the neck edges, but then I tested an inverted pleat at the front, and liked the way that it pulled in both front and back necklines to sit nice and neatly on me. So I stitched it down -- it's almost perfect, I just have to press it flat so it sits smoothly. 

The neckline is finished with a facing, but I just cut a narrow one and turned into a bias facing. I didn't change the length of the top at all; while it's longer than the magazine image, I prefer my tops to the lower hip, not the high hip, so it works out perfectly for me. Just had to make sure that the waist line & tie were at the right spot before cutting; very little adjustment was needed. 

I am trying to get some more projects done while I am at home for the foreseeable future, because of the Covid-19 outbreak (my library is closed). I traced off four Burda patterns earlier this week, and have now made up one of them.

While I can't go out anywhere, I can get out into the sunshine in my yard. Today was bright and cold (I was a bit chilly here but needs must!) and the air was so fresh -- it was nice to get outside for a while and take photos. Have you been sewing more while you're at home? Projects that have been on your list for a while, or impulse sewing? Whatever you are making, stay happy and healthy, and stay home :)

Nautical Stripes with the Mandy Boat Tee

Another free pattern to try out! The very popular Mandy Boat Tee made its first appearance on my sewing table this month.

I've been focusing on trying to make up some of the many patterns I already own, and make some new tops. So the ever popular Mandy was a must.

This free pattern used to be only one size, but after some years of people making it and resizing it, Tessuti put out a revised version which now has four sizes. A little more user friendly!

The yard really was this lush this morning! So green!

When I got it out to trace, I found that it was a hand-drawn pattern which was pretty charming. I chose my size (3 = L/XL) and traced it out carefully, but I did find that even with the expanded sizing, the lower arm is pretty snug on my round arms. It might be partly the low stretch factor of the fabric, however.

This fabric has been in my stash for yonks! I picked it up because it was on a super sale a long time ago, planning to make a dress, but I never did. So I used some of it to make this Mandy. I thought the red & white stripes were suitably nautical for a Boat Tee, plus I might be able to wear it for Canada Day (but no luck there, it is supposed to be HOT for Canada Day so I will be going with one of my very lightweight red & white makes!)

In any case, this boxy tee is very boxy indeed. I'm not sure a straight boxy silhouette is the best one for a pear shaped figure -- it feels like there is a little too much excess fabric around my chest/underarm in order for it to fit at the hip, but again, a drapier knit might be perfect.

The sewing was so simple. They have a nice trick to the neckline; you start by turning under and stitching then sew the shoulders together. And when you're done you take a little dart at the neckline edges which magically disappears into the seam with no bulge and helps the neckline lie flat. It's amazing.

You sew the sleeves on flat, and then stitch up the sides and hem. It's so quick. I think that a summery version could easily be made by leaving the sleeve additions off and having just a slouchy shoulder/sleeve-ish finish.

It's a great pattern if you fit into the size range or can adapt it for yourself. Pretty easy. But I think I'll have to try Tessuti's Fave Top, another of their free patterns, next since it looks like a much more natural fit for a pearish figure.

Weekend Review: Generation T

Generation T: 108 ways to transform a t-shirt / Megan Nicolay
NY: Workman, c2006.
258 p.

This is a book I've owned for a long time. Although published in 2006, it has a very 90s grunge/punk feel to it, reminding me of the PostPunk Kitchen blog and books of the same period.

It's a fun book for anyone who might not be an accomplished sewist, who just wants to reuse and upcycle old tees. I gave it to my teenage niece when she got interested in developing her own fashion sense and she liked it.

There are a variety of upcycling projects in here -- from shirts to skirts to bags and pillows. I have to say that many, if not most, of the designs will appeal mainly to young women, and not to the middle aged or those who prefer a more finished look to one's clothes. There's a lot of cut and tie going on.

But it's a creative spark for those interested in remaking clothing, and has some fun ideas that can be adapted into something more to a reader's taste if the original doesn't appeal. I have a feeling that this would be a hit for a craft group, or for people wanting to do something a little different. These days most of these kind of t-shirt projects can be found online, but I think this book still has enough interest to be a fun and quirky read.

I really can't say that this is a staple for me as a sewer, but I have kept it for over a decade so there is something there that appeals! If you like a free-wheeling, non-patterned compilation of upcycling ideas, you might like this book. There is a second book as well, but I find that the projects in that one are reaching -- this book kind of reaches the limit of practical or usable ideas for me.

Definitely something to appeal to the newbie or the young person interested in tackling their excess fast fashion and learning sewing basics at the same time.


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For a recent post in which I talk about t-shirt refashioning and share more links, check out this discussion about scarf making with old tees!