And Lacey Makes Three

To recover from my missing sewjo in June I decided to make a pattern I've made twice before, the Lacey Dress by Style Arc. This is a great pattern to use with stripes, and it's also a nice loose summer dress to wear on hot days.

I had some rayon that I bought at a PatternReview weekend in Chicago in 2016 so it was time to use it! I really like the print but I do find the colours a bit duller than I'd remembered; the pale blue with red gives a mauve-y feel to the dress as a whole. Not sure I completely love it - but it is comfy! 

Because I've made it twice before I just cut without worrying about any pattern alterations. I cut the central bodice pieces with the stripe horizontal, and the outer sleeve and skirt with vertical lines. But I was challenging myself to see if I could sew it all together in 3 hours like a Great British Sewing Bee challenge -- I just made it -- but just like with the timed challenges on the Bee, there are therefore mistakes. I think I will take the skirt off and resew it more neatly and evenly. You can't really see it in the photos (or probably in real life much) but the waist seam is uneven, it's higher in the front, and it's driving me nuts! The problem with rayon that likes to shift and stretch... 

I wore it to work this week on a very warm day and it was cool and airy to wear. I stopped to take photos in the rose garden in the churchyard that I cut through on my way to work; it matches with the dress nicely! It certainly was quick and stress free making a pattern that I was already familiar with, but I have to remember the maxim, Haste Makes Waste, and not try to compete with Sewing Bee timing ;) 

Weekend Review: The Devil's Cloth

 

The Devil's Cloth / Michel Pastoureau
trans. from the French by Jody Gladding
NY: Washington Square Press, 2003, c1991
144 p.

I picked up this little book on the history of stripes a while ago. It was originally published in 1991 but reissued in the early 2000s, and is written by a French scholar, although I must say this book isn't really very scholarly! A lot of suppositions and unsupported assertions, even in a tiny book. 

It started out as a pretty interesting read, with the history of the Carmelite order in France and how stripes were used to mark them out as mendicants -- the first section was the most interesting for me; as it moves forward in time the research that the chapters are based on seems like it gets more vague. This earlier era must be his specialty because these bits feel more thorough and believable. It discusses stripes in religious iconography, what they may symbolize at this time, and moves on to the ways in which stripes were representative in heraldry. All quite fascinating! 

The next section, of four chapters, covers how stripes were representative of revolution and eventually imprisonment. But it opens by comparing horizontal to vertical stripes, and how the significance of each differed. It also covers the appearance of a 'good' stripe, a fashionable one influenced by Orientalism and the vogue for African wildlife like zebras. This was a clever way to show how societal changes were affecting the use of striped fabric, and also how stripes could be mutable in their meanings. 

The final section is, to me, the weakest, only because it's a lot of theory and many notes that "this area needs more research".  It does consider why stripes are common on nightclothes in the 19th and 20th century, and how "oddballs" like artists and eccentrics embraced the stripe. Of course, the entire book is from the French perspective, so the examples are rooted in French culture, and maybe not always widely transferable. 

Still, it's a clever little book and gives some room for consideration when you're thinking about how and why we use stripes today. Is there the same kind of symbolic importance to choosing a striped outfit today, other than to suggest a nautical air? Or to nod to Chanel and the Breton tee? If you're interested in getting some background on the role stripes have held in history, for sure you could pick up this brief book and learn a few neat tidbits. Handy to have some of these facts to share in a conversation! Just don't expect an in-depth interrogation of the use of the stripe as a fashion motif across the globe -- this is more of a short history/meditation on stripes in French culture. 

What do you think? Do you like stripes, and do you choose to sew with them or wear them for any reason besides visual appeal? How about the horizontal/vertical divide when it comes to wearing stripes? And are you a regular or irregular stripe aficionado?

The Psychedelic Zebra Dress

I've had my eye on a duvet cover that I picked up at a thrift store quite a long time ago. Wondering if I dared make a dress out of the super bright and large print. I finally figured out what would work with this wild fabric, at least theoretically, so gave it a go last weekend.

I magically had the exact orange tone of the print in my vintage bias binding stash, and also a spool of orange thread which matched. So I got busy and started cutting!

I used a Burda envelope pattern, Burda 6322. I made the cap sleeve view, but added length so it is at my knees. If it was even a touch longer I'd have had to add the side slits but as is it works perfectly for walking and sitting.

The major changes I had to make here were to shorten above the waist by a good 1.5", and then add that length back onto the bottom. And I added in some side seam pockets because why not?

I basted it and tried it on to see if I could get away with not installing a zip. I could manage but I didn't look quite right. I ended up taking in 1/2" on either side of the back seam, grading to nothing by the waist, as the neckline was a bit gapey. I forget how wide Burda necklines are for my frame! This helped but the back neckline is also a bit high and so stands away from my neck a bit. If I make this again I'll be lowering the back neckline by at least 1/2" before putting in a zip.

Otherwise this was a quick and fun project and I actually love it! I wondered if the print might be a bit much, but when I tried on the dress, I felt the fitted silhouette balanced the wild print, making it a fun wearable outfit. This duvet cover is also 100% cotton, so I made a matching mask.

I'm definitely sewing less now that I'm back to work and much busier so this quick project was a great boost to my sewjo. I'm excited to try a couple other projects in the queue now.

Style Arc Lacey Dress, Take Two

I first made the Style Arc Lacey Dress in 2018, in green seersucker. It was a heavier fabric so I ended up changing the Lacey's gathered skirt to a pleated one. This time, I am using a vintage rayon, very soft and drapey, so stuck with the original design. 

It's kind of nice making a pattern for the second time: most of the adjustments have already been made! I often write all the changes I've made, when I'm first trying a pattern, onto an index card and slip it into the pattern envelope. It's very handy to see what I might have done that I haven't marked permanently onto the pattern pieces.

I was glad I had noted that the Lacey needed to be taken in by an inch at centre front and back -- I often do this for many patterns as it is a quick way to narrow my shoulder/chest area. I shift the pattern 1/2" off the fold at the neck and angle it so that the wedge is a few inches long. This isn't exactly kosher patternmaking/altering but it always works for me. 

In any case, I was very happy to finally get to this project, which I've had in mind since last summer. This fabric was given to me a couple of years ago by a friend's mother -- it's quite old rayon and had some frayed holes along one edge of the selvage. Fortunately I was easily able to cut around the holes and get this amazing striped fabric to shine to full advantage in this pattern, which really highlights a good stripe. 

I switched the pocket bags to my default pocket, as the drafted one is teeny. Because this fabric is so soft and drapy, I was able to avoid having to make any other size alterations. The Lacey is an easy make, no closures and a loose fit that looks good and will be very cool in the summer. But it's not too loose, so I don't feel sloppy in it. 

I love the way this vibrant fabric looks with alternating stripe directions and a gathered skirt. It's a straightforward design, with minimal Style Arc directions, but then it isn't very difficult at all. The bodice design is clever and goes together quite nicely, with the front and back shoulder/sleeve all in one piece. 

This Lacey dress gets a thumbs up from me -- I have a feeling I will be wearing it a lot this summer. This is one of my planned May projects done; two others are cut. I am feeling much more like sewing lately!

Jalie Yoko in Green Stripes

I downloaded the Jalie Yoko as soon as it was posted -- what a great shape! I have been looking for a boxy style top for a while now and this was just perfect.

Also perfect was the mossy green lightweight sweater knit I picked up at Fabricland in a sale just a day or two previously. It was so very soft I couldn't leave it behind. Luckily it has just enough stretch in it to be able to get away with using it for this pattern.

It's a simple design, and Jalie's drafting is so good, that I cut it without too much concern. I wondered if I'd got my sleeve shortening alterations right, as the drop shoulder threw me off a little - but as it turned out it is perfect. I love the way it drapes on the body and the shape and fit are just what I was looking for. Because I'm short I didn't alter the length - I wanted it to end at the bottom of my hip so didn't have to change anything.

I don't have a serger, so I sewed this way I usually sew knits, with a narrow zigzag stitch - 3 long & 1.5 wide. Jalie's instructions gave a different method but I didn't try it out so can't say how effective it might be (though of course, with Jalie being the experts in sewing stretch fabrics I'm sure there woul be no problems).  I wonder how this would turn out in a different fabric -- because it was so simple and I really, really like the result of this attempt, I may just try again.

Really if you haven't tried any Jalie patterns before, download this free pattern and give it a go. I think you might be pleasantly surprised.

My Burda Accidental 80s Top

Like so many other sewists, I have an inspirational stack of Burda magazines that I haven't made anything from yet, even though I have little sticky flags sticking out of all of them marking the numerous patterns I'd like to make! Well, a couple of months ago now I decided it was time to try one out, and traced off this blouse with a hem and sleeve flounce, with a black lace fabric in mind. It's style 123 from the 12/2017 issue.

However, I decided it was quite necessary to muslin this pattern beforehand, as I do often have to make multiple adjustments to Burda patterns. And it's a good thing I did because I did indeed have to narrow the front and back at the centre of the neckline, shorten the body and narrow the bottom flounce to suit a more petite figure; I also left the back neck opening out and sewed it straight up as it fit over my head just fine. I should have shortened and widened the sleeve at the bicep as well. I may still remove the sleeve and pull it up an inch to see if it fits better that way. You can see in this photo how the sleeve pulls slightly across the upper arm anytime my arm is not straight down.

When I finished this I wasn't too keen on it. The neck facing poked up weirdly, and I just felt like it didn't fit right. Left it in the magic closet for a while, and upon trying again, I realized I could remove the neck facing (done & replaced with a bias facing - a vintage cotton percale lightweight bias tape in white). And for some reason I now like the straight line shape of it. If I do end up making it in the original fabric I had in mind I might still shorten the body a bit more, especially in the back.

But I'm also really enjoying the 80s vibe of the fabric -- this is another piece of the vintage fabrics given to me by my friend's mom in her great stash clearing. I had *just* enough to get this pattern out of it, which why my sleeves don't match across the lines perfectly. I just had no more wiggle room. The colours of this are really fun, and it makes me think of birds on a wire.

It's a lightweight cotton and quite nice to wear. The bright stripes & abstract print really say 80s to me, but I was careful not to style it too heavily as an 80s combo -- just imagine it with some stirrup pants, jelly shoes, big hair in a scrunchie, and bright beads, and you'll be thinking of me in high school, haha. I do have some large, bright blue beads but resisted the lure... and went with a subtle pendant I picked up in Banff a few years ago instead.

Are you enjoying the 80s resurgence? I sure am! From movies (Stranger Things) to books (The Saturday Night Ghost Club) to fashion (especially Escada's latest!) I am all about the 80s. I know 'they' say that if you wore it the first time around, avoid it the second time -- but I am blithely disregarding that fashion advice and enjoying all the 80s inspired styles I can. Are you a fan? What 80s styles do you like - or dislike?

StyleArc Lacey summer frock

I just realized I made this dress, Instagrammed it, reviewed it on PatternReview, and never came back to my blog to share it! It's now a month old at least -- so here is a slightly delayed review of the Lacey Dress from Style Arc.

In quick summary: I liked it after a few alterations.

I started this pattern because I thought it would be a great design to highlight some striped fabric I picked up in Toronto in June (at King Textiles)

It does indeed look wonderful in stripes! But there were a few small issues with my fabric choice. It is a bit too stiff to work with a gathered skirt. I tried it, and it was quite dreadful. So I quickly unpicked it and converted to a pleated skirt. Fortunately for me, the amount of gathering I need for the skirt to fit the bodice was an even number - 6" exactly. So I folded out two pleats on each side of both the front and back skirts, matching the inner pleat to the seam of the centre panel to keep things looking tidy. This skirt falls much better with some nice crisp pleats!

I also found that there was still too much fabric in the waistline and perhaps that is again down to the body of the fabric. However, I pinched out a crescent of fabric between the underarm area and the top of the pocket, with the widest part being one inch at the waistline seam. Once I'd basted that and tested it, I stitched it down permanently and much prefer the look this way. I'll go back and make those changes on my pattern pieces for next time for sure -- this is such a fun style and so comfortable to wear I am sure I'll make another one in more suitable fabric!

This is a very cool dress to wear in the muggy weather we've been having because it just floats around the body. It was fairly simple to make - no closures and the side panel/sleeve is a neat feature. I really like how the centre panels at front and back make it easy to add little touches like stripes going in opposite directions - it would also highlight some colour blocking nicely I think. This is the first Style Arc pattern I've made which fits me well, and I am very pleased with it!

Sparkly New Look 6936!

Yes, I've made yet another New Look 6936!

I do love this now sadly out-of-print pattern. This time I tried out a new view, the faux wrap bodice of View B, with ruched shoulders.

I'm not generally much for wrap dresses or even wrap bodices, as I find they don't fit me too well what with my uneven shoulders and short waist. But since this was a pattern I was familiar with already, and it is knit, I thought I'd give it a try. Also because I wanted to make a wrap dress of some kind to join in on the #SewTogetherForSummer hashtag on Instagram!

So I wondered if this might be the perfect opportunity to use an odd piece of remnant knit in my stash -- a lighter weight striped knit which also has raised lines of gold. It's pretty sparkly, and was a bit shifty to cut due to the gold blobs. But sewing turned out to be pretty easy since the fabric clung to itself when face to face. Since I know that this pattern has a crazy amount of bodice ease, I cut my usual size 12 at shoulders/bust, grading out to a 16 at the waist.

I found some shiny black ribbon to use in the shoulder seams and also added in side seam pockets, sewn from the same fabric but with some seam binding sewn in along the pocket seams to reduce any stretching. Even matched the stripes on the side seams!

I did end up attaching the bodice crossover a little more than marked on the pattern to give myself more coverage -- probably only about an inch either way -- then stitched everything down. The method of construction is a bit funny on this one in order to have finished shoulder seams acting as casings for the ribbons - you finish off the bodice and arm and neck edges before attaching it to the skirt.  It meant that I could really fit it to my preferred coverage before finishing though. I did still add a little pin to the crossover point when wearing this to work, though.

It turned out better than I expected, and I actually really love it. I may still hem it to remove the black stripe at the bottom of the skirt, but I haven't decided if I should yet. I do like it a bit long this way. This is a fun dress that is adaptable; you can ruche the sleeves up to be almost a sleeveless look if you like that - I like my shoulders covered a bit so left them less ruched. Definitely a great pattern that I've got a lot of use from!

New Look 6977: a Stripey Skirt

Sharing a quick review of a simple pull-on knit skirt today, one you might recognize if you were at the most recent PR Weekend! It's part of the wardrobe pattern New Look 6977 -- a pattern that I've made another skirt from, nearly four years ago apparently, and said then that I wanted to try the other options. At this rate I'll be retired before I try all the pieces in this pattern! 

In any case, here's the quick straight skirt. I made a couple of changes - added side seam pockets cut from cotton broadcloth (non-stretchable) and cut the waist at 16 and hips at 18 (I didn't want it to cling). I should've reread my first review because the waistband was far too large. The pattern is too straight up & down for my shape, so I unpicked the waistband as much as I could at the sides and stitched it back down at an angle, to basically give me a 14 waist. But if I wasn't so lazy and had completely removed and resized it, it would fit better than it does. However, since I never wear it without a shirt over it (nothing tucked in for me) I figured it was "good enough" for a quick skirt.

I also changed the procedure when sewing the waistband. Instead of the casing + elastic method I used Jalie's Eleanore waistband process of stitching down the elastic at the edge of the top fold first and then folding the waistband & attaching. It's so much more secure and lies flat mostly, if it is the right size in the first place ;) 

I used a nice thick stretchy poly knit from Fabricland that was calling out to be a fun skirt, and got the stripes mostly matched at the side seams. This is a cheery and very comfy skirt despite the slight fit issue I had with it due to my own shape compared to the very straightness of the skirt. Now I'll have to try some of the other options in this pattern.......

That 70s Thing

For some reason, a couple of weeks ago I had an overpowering urge to make a 70s style long vest. I was feeling nostalgic about a thrifted, long, knit vest that I had in the early 90s (long gone) which was pea green, cream and orange -- I wore the heck out of that thing. It was nicer than it sounds ;)

I had the perfect lightweight, stretchy sweater knit in my stash, picked up last year on sale at my local Fabricland, just enough for this vest. I'd bought it originally because I loved the colours and thought I could make a cardi or something like that at some point. This was the time to use it!

I had some difficulty figuring out which pattern to use, though. The shape of the vest was very specific in my mind, to reflect that old original piece. Which meant no modern waterfall or shawl collar, just unfussy finishing. I thought about using a cardigan pattern and lowering the armscye a little, or adapting something else, but finally I came across this wardrobe pattern in my pattern stash, Simplicity 1593.

This vest was essentially what I wanted, with only a narrow band finishing the front edges. So I went for it.

This was an easy sew, even with the soft and springy knit. I used a narrow zigzag (.5 wide, 2.5 long) in the perfect grey that just disappeared into the fabric. I cut it with no alterations -- even though I'm only 5'2" and usually shorten everything, I wanted a really long duster style vest. The only thing I did which was not in the instructions was to sew the shoulder seams with some seam binding to limit the stretch, and I also topstitched down all the seam allowances -- because you can't see the topstitching at all I thought this would be the best way to keep the inside looking neat, as it is quite visible when I move around.

I really love this piece -- it turned out exactly as I had pictured it, which doesn't happen too often! I also wore it exactly as I'd pictured it, with my favourite basic dress, Kwik Sew 3559 (which I only made just before Christmas but have worn many times since - it goes with everything). I added a fabulous thrifted necklace in the perfect colours, and also my favourite thrifted shoes. So all in all I was feeling quite fabulously 70s today, in the best possible way.