Novelty Scrap Busting!

I have a tip for all you scrap busters out there -- check with your local library and/or early education teachers to see if they have a use for your scraps. My coworker who runs children's programs recently asked me if I had any fabric scraps with varied textures for a learning module she's creating. The key was texture -- the children would be feeling the fabric and sharing their experiences, even comparing it to things outdoors during outdoor programs as well. 

Well. Do I have any scraps? This request took on a fun journey through my remnant bins, where I found lots of silky lining and rayons, crisp cottons, canvas, rougher linens, varied wales of corduroy, velour, burnout velvet, fleece, felt, wool, jacquards, cotton gauze, seersucker, scuba, soft stretchy jerseys, metallic knits, suitings, ultrasuede, and more. I cut a block of each one, in varying sizes depending on my remnant, but big enough to run through the hands and get a good sense of the tactile nature of each. 

I used my pinking sheers to trim some of the more prone-to-fraying bits, but overall they weren't hard to gather and sort. And they can be thrown into a lingerie bag to be washed when necessary. If there are some that fray away she can ask me for more ;) 

It was a fun exercise, as I saw bits from my many previous projects, and even discovered quite large remnants of a few fabrics that I'm now planning to make some summer tops from! I was able to create two baggies of exactly the same bits so that they can be used by multiple families. This was an unexpected request that cleared nearly a shopping bag full of small scraps from my stashes and got me to organize a bit too. Definitely a new and useful life for some of my remnants.

Everyday Dress in Medallion Print for #FrugalFrocks

When I saw an announcement for a sewalong challenge on IG called #FrugalFrocks2021, I knew it was one for me! I love dresses, and I love sewing frugally. The challenge was to take a free dress pattern, and match it with a fabric from your stash, and then reveal your make on March 31. I'll be sharing the project tomorrow on IG; blog readers get an advance view ;) 

I have quite a number of free dress patterns in my stash. I looked through a bunch of them, but ended up returning to the Everyday Dress by In The Folds for Peppermint Magazine. I had already traced this one last year and it was ready to go. I considered the Himari Dress by Love Sewing magazine, which I also have traced out. I also thought about making another Orla Dress. And I looked at the four or five dress downloads from Mood Sewciety that I have in my queue...and the handful from Fabrics-store.com. But when I found this medallion fabric in the deep stash I knew it would have to be the Everyday Dress.

Windy bright days don't equal ideal photo conditions ;) But they are lovely.

The fabric has a crisper hand -- it's like a medium weight fabric you might use for curtains or a pillow cover. But it also had the feel and look I wanted so I just went for it! Thankfully it turned out well; the fabric holds the shape of the dress in a way that I like (a soft linen makes this dress look too droopy for my personal tastes). It's also pretty, with turquoise, darker blue, mauve and gold in the print. 

The pattern itself is a pretty quick and easy one. It's theoretically reversible, with a round neck and a v-neck. I like the V neck in front, myself. The pockets went in just in the right spot and the finishing details, both facings at neck and hem, are nicely done. I really like the hem treatment, although it does mean that you'd better know what length you want when you cut it -- you can't really chop off anything at the bottom when you're done. The hem facing is incorporated into the cut fabric, and you just fold and mitre a couple of inches at the end. It gives a neat and tidy finish, especially around the side slits. I'm impressed with it! 

Other than the required shortening of the main pattern pieces prior to cutting, I didn't have to make too many adjustments. I was planning on shortening the sleeve, but since my old fabric was only 45" wide, I wasn't given much choice about how much to shorten them! I cut them as long as possible on this fabric and as it turns out this is the perfect length for my short arms. 

This was a fast sew but a thoughtfully planned one. The pattern has good instructions and a nice finish, as mentioned. I think I may make another in a different type of fabric for a whole other look. I'm so pleased that this sewalong finally gave me the impetus to make this dress, which I downloaded and traced over a year ago. 

Can't wait for a less windy day to wear this! ;)

Small Yardage Patterns

Just a few days ago, the Sew and Tell Podcast was talking about small yardage patterns. They defined "small yardage" as those items that can be sewn up with under 2 m. of fabric, useful considering we are mostly sewing from our stashes these days! 

I enjoyed the podcast, and their many suggestions. You can see the full list at their podcast show notes page.  A couple of their suggestions are on my 2020 To-Sew list, like the Antero Shell Top or the Cielo Top. But there are also quite a few that I have in my own stash that fit this category, and are great to make with less than 2 m. of fabric. So here are my own suggestions. 

The La Brea Tee by Halfmoon Atelier 

This one is great because you can make it in either knit or woven, and it uses about a yard, plus bias tape if you choose to use it. It gives two different looks for one easy pattern! Here is my woven version.

 

Kwik Sew 3559

My standard knit top, this can be made with about 1-1.5 m., if you cut it at shirt length and not dress length. I've made a bunch of these. This one will have to be in your stash already though, as I'm pretty sure it is out of print. You may find it online somewhere though! 

Sorbetto Top by Colette 

This old standard is still useful! I've made quite a few, and it is a great free pattern. You could use any of the many, many camisole/tank patterns out there in the sewing world though, whichever is a favourite for you. Most of them use barely a yard.

Sutton Blouse by True Bias 

This is a lovely top, great design and fit. I can't understand why I haven't made more of them! I've made one for myself and one for my mom, and think I'll get it out again and make another this year. It has lovely finishing details (mine has an added scarf from the leftovers). It uses between 1.5 - 2 m. depending on size.

Lindy Petal Skirt by Itch to Stitch 

 

This free pattern is wonderful! It is a great use for small pieces of knit and I wear mine a ton. The shape is flattering and comfortable. It is a quick sew as well. It uses from 3/4 - 1 1/4 y. depending on size. 

There are probably a whole bunch of Big Four small yardage patterns in my stash that I could try next, and I know I have a handful of small yardage indies printed and waiting for their turn on the table. The Harvest Boxy Top by Peppermint Magazine, the Five Points Blouse by Jennifer Kempler for Sew News, or the Justine Skirt by Ready to Sew (only 2 m.) are all awaiting my attention.

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You might also want to sew from scraps, and piece together some of your stash remnants to make something new. I have a whole post about scrappy projects here

Want to make soon!

Or take some inspiration from this great Burda patchwork jacket by Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow. Making a copy of that is now on my wishlist!

Do you have any favourite small yardage patterns that you go back to often? If you have more suggestions, please share them! I'm always looking for new ideas for my stash fabrics. Hope you are finding sewing a relaxing and helpful habit during these unsettled times, like I am. 

1989: Christie Brinkley's Surf Club!

This week I started a new dress from a 1989 pattern (Simplicity 9111, a Christie Brinkley 'Surf Club' pattern) and some thrifted fabric from my stash. This large print blue & white fabric in my stash was 36" wide and I had just over 3 yards, just enough to squeeze the main pieces on. I'd thought about using a rayon, but found it just didn't have enough body.

Because of the narrow width of this blue and white print, I had to cut the facings from a solid blue linen, and the pocket bags from a beige cotton voile so that they wouldn't show through the white elements of the main fabric. But that way I could use it!

It's a neat little pattern. While it is just a straight elastic waist dress, it has a shoulder detail of an overlapping button band - very 80s indeed. The dropped shoulder and cuffed sleeve are also nice, though I had to shorten the sleeve piece by 2" to fit it onto my fabric. Good thing I have such short arms anyhow!

Even though this dress is pretty simple, I had quite a few difficulties with it. I put that down to my level of distraction in this strange situation we all find ourselves in. It's hard to concentrate, even on things I love.

I put the two buttonholes at the waist of the front bodice for the drawstring to pop out of later on, then panicked and thought that I'd put them on the back bodice by mistake so unpicked one then realized it was right the first time so put it back on. Good thing I stopped what I was doing for a minute!

And I spent two hours sorting through all my buttons to try to find 6 matching buttons that would be perfect for this dress. I found white ones that I loved but only had four. So for now I am using a mix of these, plus two plain blue ones but will switch them out once things get back to normal and I can find a matching set!

In more making-do news, I used some narrow navy bias tape as my drawstring - I had no cording in the stash, and was thinking about making self-fabric tubes but didn't really want to piece together my wee scraps that I had left. This slightly shiny bias tape was just perfect (vintage so a different weight/texture than modern poly-cotton bias tape packages).

Otherwise I think this is a very cute dress and I love the fabric a lot. It is light and drapy but with some body. It is also a bit see through so I'll have to wear a slip but I'm okay with that. Yay to some more stash reduction!

Butterick 5626 Basic Black Jumper

I am really into jumpers lately, which is funny since I never used to like them. But suddenly I just want to make all the jumpers! I think it was finding my old Vogue 8132 pattern that started me off.

So I went through my stash and found handful of six or seven other patterns, all older ones, that I could choose from to make another version. I had a particular piece of black stretch suiting in my stash -- it's about a denim weight and slightly stretchy -- I picked it up in Kalamazoo on my way to the Chicago PR Weekend in 2016 so I've had it for a while. It was perfect for this project!

I picked Butterick 5626, a basic jumper with a straight skirt and patch pockets. I had just enough fabric to fit View E onto; thank goodness I am short.

I didn't make many alterations -- I didn't even shorten it above the bust as I usually do. I didn't shorten at the hem either, since it would end up right at my kneecaps as designed, and that's where I like the length. Taller people will end up with a shorter, more 60s effect jumper.

After I cut it out I basted and tried on, and ended up taking 1/2" in at each underarm, grading to nothing by the side notches. I also took in 1/2" at the back centre seam as there was some gaping, although the front was fine -- strangely for me! To get the hang right I also took a 1/4" wedge at the outer shoulder and angled it down to nothing by the inner neckline edge. All these seemingly small adjustments made it look SO much better on.

I didn't cut the facings because I didn't have enough self fabric, and thought that the facing edge might show through anyhow. I finished the edges with black bias tape facing instead. And I added the patch pockets a little differently than the pattern suggested -- I lined them and topstitched them on using the technique from a recent Burda make.

Then I just took up an one inch hem and I was done. I love this! I think that I am going to get a lot of wear out of this staple. The only drawback is that it seems to be a bit of a lint attractor. So will have to watch out & carry a lint roller ;) And I think I may need to add a lining if I'm going to wear it with my heavy tights.

The only problem is that now I want to also make all the other jumper patterns that I found in my stash!

Worn with Vogue 8634 here

Quick Sustainable Gifts from your stash!

If you're thinking about making a few little gifts this year, and need something quick because once again you've left everything to the last minute (just me?) there are quite a few fun, free patterns out there that are quick, multipurpose, and don't require any fitting at all.

Perfect for that last minute addition to a gift!

First, you might want to make a beanie from this free pattern made by Workhorse Patterns for the Sewcialists. It's a great use for knit scraps & can be just as cute as you want it to be. It can also be plain and solid coloured for more sedate headgear.

Of course you can easily put together a scarf to match, using my very own tutorial for an infinity scarf, or this one for a longer scarf. You can make it all out of one fabric, or jazz things up by first stitching together your scraps into a patchwork and then making your scarf from the resulting scrappy piece. Fabricland Ontario has a great tutorial for making a patchwork & fringe scarf from luxurious velvet!

Perhaps you want to make some sustainable packaging to gift it all in -- a quick fabric drawstring bag is a perfect option and the size can be cut to accommodate any package you have. You might want to fancy it up a little by adding a contrasting lining and eyelets or even just buttonholes for your drawstring. I usually make mine as simply as BrownThumbMama does in her clear tutorial above.

Costa Tote from Helen's Closet

Or you could add an extra gift by sewing up a simple tote bag to wrap your gift in that can then be reused all year long. Choose a fabric that matches the recipient's favourite colours or a novelty print that reflects their interests. Make it elegant with fancy fabric or cheap and cheerful with offcuts from your sewing. Just make it strong enough to hold things and make sure you secure the handles firmly. There are many options for tote bag patterns -- you can google a bunch! You might want to look at the Costa Tote from Helen's Closet (a free pattern with newsletter signup), or if you really get into bags and love sustainable, community sewing ideas, you can join Boomerang Bags, an international group based in Australia that focuses on making bags from post-consumer fabrics to help reduce single use plastics in your local community.

If you haven't already made these for everyone you know, a cozy gift is a microwaveable neck warmer. I have two at home, and one in my office drawer. They are wonderful when you've got a chill or a stiff neck from too much computer work! Here's one way to make them from SewCanShe that's not only simple, but uses smaller scraps to make a cheerful, colourful scrap-busting gift.

Hope that this will help with any of those last minute ideas you might be looking for!

Floral TNT: Kwik Sew 3559

Sometimes you try out new patterns and muslin things and get frustrated at the changes and the difficulties you're having.... so you pull out a TNT as a refresher!

This floral dress was a quick sew made from my favourite knit pattern, Kwik Sew 3559. I've made it many times -- six times as a top and three times now as a dress. It's a simple pattern with nice lines and fits me really well. The only catch is no pockets. Though I add pockets to everything, I didn't to this one, mostly because my recent sewing streak was a series of fails, so wanted to be sure this would fit right first!

I did get it to fit properly, using my usual adjustments (cutting a M at the shoulders and bust and adding to each side by the hip level to make it just a touch larger than the L size line).  I pulled this pretty poly knit out of my thrifted stash, and was planning on making a tunic length, but fortunately had enough to make it dress length instead. And I have enough bits left to make up some pattern-matched patch pockets for the front that I'll be adding shortly.

I love this pattern for its easy fit and the shape. I like the little gathered front yoke and the way that the cut-on sleeve fits (although I did add an inch to the length of the basic sleeve on this version).

I've made in everything from a t-shirt weight jersey to this stable poly knit, and it works each time. Sometimes it is nice to make something that just works! One more piece from my stash used, as well -- I bought it because it was so pretty, so I am glad it's now out in the world.