Hot Pink Upcycled 90s Dress!

This delightful project was done just in time for a 3 day return of summer temperatures here - perfect for cotton dresses 🙂 It's made from a 100% cotton IKEA duvet cover which I bought at the thrift store this summer, just because of the intense colour that I noticed from an aisle away.

When I got it home I realized I would have to be very careful with print placement! There are a series of fairly closely packed circles all over it. I looked through my stash for something with princess seams so I could slice up the motifs & came up with Simplicity 9601, a 1996 shirtdress pattern. I think it worked re: motifs but it also has a great fit, the cut-on sleeve isn't too revealing in the underarm area, but it also doesn't restrict movement at all. I really like it! I think I may use this one again. 

I had to cut the length somewhere between their long and short to get the perfect longer skirt look for me. Of course I added some side seam pockets as well. I did shorten it an whole inch above the waist, and I cut the shoulders at 14 and the rest at 16, giving myself a smidge extra at the hips. The only thing I would change if I make it again is to take a little sway back adjustment to deal with a bit of extra fabric at my lower back. Otherwise I love the fit and feel of this - the sleeve is great, the V isn't too low, and it's comfy.

And I was thrilled that the perfect buttons were in my button box - I wasn't sure what to use with this fabric until I saw these. I bought them at my local Fabricland some time ago with another project in mind, but am so glad I never used them because they are just right for this fabric! The only issue I had sewing this dress was that the bright fabric made me see spots if I didn't look up to rest my eyes often enough. It's so nice to have a problem free sew once in a while!

I AM Barbara in Skull & Crossbones

I've had this project in mind for a few months, and with a weekend of intense sewing, managed to get it made in time for my Halloween workwear! 

The I AM Barbara blouse caught my eye a while back - I don't have anything like it; it was the flounces that interested me. I like the ones with the least flounce to them, and thought that this fabric was a perfect match to this design. I bought it with this project in mind, and happily it all came together just as nicely as I'd imagined in my head! 

The fabric was originally a 100% cotton IKEA sheet, which I bought at the Goodwill. When I saw it, it looked like a repeated print in black & white, which fits into my wardrobe parameters. But when I looked a little closer, I saw that it is tiny skull & crossbones. How delightful! 

And, the fabric is very soft and light, so I thought that a double layer, like in the Barbara blouse, would work well with it. It wouldn't be too bulky, and it would also be a bit more wearable if two layers make it a tiny bit less transclucent. 

I really enjoyed sewing this, even if I was pushing myself to finish it. The instructions were clear, even with some fussy bits like the front hidden placket piece.

I ended up not doing it perfectly but close enough to wear and be functional - that's all I ask! I also made a small boo-boo on one cuff, which buttons the opposite way to the other, but that's easily fixable but removing and replacing that cuff. I will do that at some point ;) 

I cut a 42/44 with a little more width at the hip/hem. And I had to shorten the sleeve by 5/8", which meant also shortening the flounces. I didn't take any length off the body of the blouse, in fact I added 1/2" to the bottom to give me more hem allowance. I think that it's just right. 

I used flat black buttons for the placket, but used 4 hole buttons for the collar and cuffs (the visible buttons) so that I could stitch them on in an X pattern using white thread, to echo the print. I really love everything about this! 

The fabric is so soft to wear, and works really well with this design. The only slight drawback is that it needs a lot of pressing! I love it and am so glad I pushed to get it done. This is an interesting design that I enjoyed making, and I also love the fabric a lot. 

When Refashions Go Wrong

Way back in the spring, PatternReview was running its Sewing Bee challenge. I made it to Round 2 on the strength of my first project, a Knit Dress With A Twist. 

The challenge for Round 2 was Collars. I have lots of collars that are interesting, and lots of things I've always wanted to try. I decided to try to make a Book Dress with a Chelsea Collar that would be multi-layered to look like book pages. Well, great idea but not so great in the execution. 

I used Simplicity 7238, a Christie Brinkley pattern from 1991. I had some good base fabric for the dress -- an old sheet, which had tones and shapes that reminded me of old book bindings. So far so good. Then I tried to create layers of sheers as "pages". So many problems! 

First off, the Chelsea collar wasn't the right choice for this concept - there was too much collar, and the sheers that I had in my stash just weren't stiff enough. I sprayed them all with spray starch and pressed but still not enough body to have the effect I wanted. Also, I caught Covid right at the beginning of collar week so was way too exhausted to do anything that might have added to the effect, like adding a text underlay, stitching with wire edges etc. I gave up and just got done what I had started so I had an entry. 

But I didn't like very much, I felt that it really didn't work for me. I put it aside thinking that maybe I could take off the sheer layers and make the dress actually wearable. I finally got to the refashion this month, and removed the sheer bits, sewing the plain collar back on. I like it much better, and think it could be wearable. But not, alas, by me. 

I don't like the shape of this dress, or the collar, or the fabric colours (why did I think I would like these colours on me?). It doesn't have any drape, and the whole outfit is just a big fail, refashion or not! 

However, the fabric is very interesting in its own right, so I'll be unpicking the zip to go back in the stash, and cutting up the dress to put into my art quilt scrap box. I can see it making a great background for something :) The joys of having non-garment sewing possibilities! 

This project was another reminder that the things I make for challenges or contests that don't already fit in with my wardrobe plans and/or colour-pattern preferences are rarely successful. I will be able to reuse this fabric, but will never get all the time back that I sunk into the project. Have you had projects like this too? I have to remind myself to be more conscious about what I'm choosing to make, in many different ways. 

A Warm Weather Yellow Jacket

This is one yellow jacket that I am not annoyed by! I used most of the remaining cotton sheet left over after my recent Simplicity 9115 makes to whip up this cute little bolero jacket from an 80s pattern. 

This Butterick 4969Butterick 4969 is from the late 80s by my best guess. I bought it for this jacket pattern; it's unlikely I will make a sundress. 

It was a fairly easy project -- front & back with collar & facings. I neatly finished the seams & facing edges since they are visible on the inside. 

The interesting foldback collar is a collar band connected to the facings & front pieces.

Then it was just on to hemming! The pattern suggests a blind hem & I did think it would look nicer with the clean edges of this little jacket. So I got out my blind hem foot & hemmed both the bottom & sleeve hems. I had to unpick the first bit as I made a bit of a mess until I got back into the rhythm of this foot.

I really like the look & the fit of this little piece. It goes well with my recent Burda dress & I am sure that other items in my wardrobe will match up too. That's pretty much the end of my big yellow sheet now! 

Simplicity 9115: Tunic View

This week I'm returning with Simplicity 9115, but a different view! This is the matching tunic to go with the skirt I made first, also from this same upcycled sheet. 

Close up so you can see the interesting weave

This was a bit fussier to make than the skirt; there are princess seams, a slit in the front left seam, sleeve facings and a back zip to fit in. However, it's not that hard at all, just the sizing bits were the most time consuming. 

I took 2" out of the length (I am only barely 5'2" after all) and cut the neckline & bust at 16, grading out to 18 at the hips. I lowered the top of the slit in the front seam by 1" to have more coverage since my torso is short -- this is basically the same construction as a kick pleat in a skirt, so there is an overlap of fabric, but still. 

I didn't really change anything else about it. I used the short sleeve view and made the hem a bit narrower to preserve the length I liked (just a 1/2" hem rather than 1 1/4").

Fortunately I found the perfect matching zip in my stash. It was a vintage zip in 'cornflower' yellow, perfect for this top. It called for a 9" zip; this was 12" but that was good enough, there is lots of length in this back seam so I didn't bother going to the trouble of shortening the zip. I almost got the subtle lines of the square print matched up exactly, they are just a hair off. But it's so subtle I wasn't going to try again - this fabric doesn't like needle holes so I didn't want to overwork it. 

I worked away at this over a few nights, doing a bit each night, and found that it was pretty clear sailing. This will obviously have the matching skirt I made but also looks great with a denim skirt. I'm thinking I'll need to make some loose summer trousers or culottes now too! I feel like I've got good value from this pattern so far :) 

Sheet To Simplicity 9115

I have been working on an outfit based on Simplicity 9115 - the whole outfit worn by the model on the front on the envelope. And I'm using a great piece of fabric; a thrifted 100% cotton sheet that I bought because the colour and the weave were irresistible. 

So far I have finished the skirt. This appealed to me because it's a quick and easy pull on skirt, with an elasticated waist that has a flat front and large "poche Italienne", my favourite kind of pocket.

This cotton is crisp but not too stiff, it still has some drape and it gathers well. That's important for a skirt with an elastic waist! This skirt also has a small walking slit in the left seam; I reduced the height of it by an inch since my legs are so short, and found it just right. 

I found this a very easy project - it went together well, all notches matched and it was straightforward straight seam sewing. I loved the way the casing is just bigger than the 1" elastic for the waistband. It was easy to install and makes a nice neat waist. 

This skirt will fit perfectly into my wardrobe; I've already tried it on with four tops I already own and it matches them all. And when I finish the tunic from this pattern, I'll have even more to wear with it! I really love it with this grey Sorbetto that I embroidered, though - the yellows are a perfect match. 

I'm really happy with the fit and comfort of this easy make, one more element in my 2022 Blue and Yellow sewing plan. 

A Rose Print Melrose Top

I've started into my summer sewing plans even if it's still too chilly to wear summer clothes yet. I started off with the Itch to Stitch Melrose Dress & Top. I decided to make the boxy top first, to test out the bodice fit and see if I liked it.

To do so, I used an upcycled duvet cover, well, the remains of it anyway. I made a Butterick dress from this fabric a couple of years ago, but haven't worn it much. But since this pattern is called the Melrose, I knew I'd have to make it in a rose print, for Melanie! Because the source was a duvet cover, there was quite a lot of fabric leftover to use. 

I like it much better as a short top than a full dress. The fabric isn't so overwhelming this way. It's a tad shorter than I usually like, so if I make the top again, I may lengthen it by a half inch or a bit more. Otherwise I quite like the fit. 

It's an easy project. I cut it out one night and then sewed it all up in one afternoon. It has a sleeve cuff and hem band that can be cut in contrast fabric, as well as a neck binding that shows, so this could also be a good scrap buster. The pattern comes with various cup sizes built in, so for the C cup and larger, a bust dart is incorporated. Since I cut the A/B cup size, it was just a straight front that is close to the same as the back (although the back is slightly longer at the armholes, and wider at hem, for fit). Front and back are sewn together, add the cuffs, hem band, and neck binding, and you're done. The longest part of it was just pressing and pinning all those finishing elements so that they'd be nice and even and flat when topstitching them down. 

I like the fit - the neckline isn't too wide, it isn't gaping, and it is comfortable to move my arms around. Even in this crisp cotton, a bit stiffer than recommended in the pattern, I like the feel of this top. Next up is the actual dress, in a drapier rayon, and another rose print, of course!  Maybe if the weather warms up I can take outdoor pictures soon, too ;)