Weekend Review: Miss Patch's Learn to Sew Book

 

Miss Patch's Learn to Sew Book / Carolyn Meyer
Boston : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, c1969.
90 p.

This was a cute reprint I found via my library -- it's a simple sewing book aimed at children, 8+ probably. It's quirky, with amusing illustrations and projects that are not too challenging but not too simple either. Note that it was first published in 1969, so there is the assumption that it is little girls reading this and wanting to sew cute things for others. And that those who will help them are mothers, older sisters and aunts. It is a bit noticeable reading it 54 years into the future. 

However, this was entertaining overall, and I found the nostalgic charm appealing -- this is a book I would have been reading in the 70s as a small child and I know I would have liked it then. The sewing information is surprisingly clear and no worries about younger sewists using needles and scissors and irons (although they do suggest adult help when ironing, at least). I think it would still be an easy way to learn some handsewing basics, but of course things have changed quite a bit in the sewing world in terms of easy to use machines etc. over the past 50 years!

It instructs readers on how to gather the needed sewing equipment, how to handsew a seam, with projects like pillows, bags, or some small patchwork and moves on to an apron and easy clothes. It follows the experiences of (slightly ditzy) Miss Patch and her dog Charlie, as Miss Patch learns to sew -- making being a beginner at any age quite normal! The narrative tone is definitely aimed at young girls, but it's not condescending. It sounds very much of its time, but much of it does hold up, and the humour of Miss Patch and Charlie learning and correcting mistakes and so forth makes it an accessible, non-intimidating book for beginners. A really charming visit back to the books of my youth ;) 

Weekend Review: How to Sew Clothes

 

How to Sew Clothes / Amelia Greenhall & Amy Bornman
NY: Abrams, c2023.
208 p.

I picked up this new book recently just to take a look (at Book Outlet, which I have a small addiction to). It has just a few basic style patterns in it, so I wasn't sure it would really do it for me, being pretty starter level. But I was so wrong. This is a great book! 

It has a handful of designs in it -- and you can see the contents fully laid out and explained at the All Well Workshop's website. But it really lives up to its subtitle -- it's full of easy hacks, clearly explained, to extend the potential of a basic pattern. The patterns themselves are on sheets folded in the back of the book, for tracing. There's the famous All Well Box Top, a Cardigan Jacket, and a couple of bags, but from that you can build a pretty good start to a wardrobe. 

I really like the layout and the relaxed tone of the book. The photography and sewing instructions are nicely done, appealing and easy to use. And the authors have an encouraging, casual tone but also give you lots of solid instruction and guidance. 

There's a section of sewing basics, and one on tips for the sewing life -- I haven't seen anything quite like this in other sewing books and it's wonderful. It talks about things like how to use Indie patterns and pdfs, keeping a notebook of projects, tracing existing garments and so on. Very basic, in the sense that there will no confusing jargon for any newbie reader. 

And there is another section at the end with tips on continuing with your sewing journey. It's a series of short tidbits on many different topics, and I loved the first one: Prioritize by Excitement. If you're overwhelmed by project options (and who isn't at some point) they say pick the one you're excited about. Such good advice! There's also bits on ebbs & flows, finding sewing friends, perfectionism and more. And of course I appreciated the shout-out to sewing book sections at the public library! 

I was very impressed with this book as a whole, it feels like one of the gentlest and most approachable beginner books I've seen. It's completely non-intimidating, but still doesn't dumb down the process of learning to sew, and offers encouragement to grow past a pattern and improve your sewing skills. This will be my first choice to offer to beginner sewists in future. I thought it was great. 

Weekend Review: Everyday Patterns by Lotta Jansdotter

Lotta Jansdotter Everyday patterns / Lotta Jansdotter
NY: Abrams, c2022.
144 p.

I picked this one up because I really enjoyed the first pattern book that Lotta Jansdotter created. This one has similar silhouettes and style, with lots of great photography. A real lifestyle book. 

This one has six garment patterns and a couple of accessories included. The title states that the pieces are mix & match, and they are -- a whole capsule wardrobe if you want it. The patterns are: 

Billie Top & Tunic

Rui Shirt & Shirt Dress

Maar Dress

Pym Pants

Kiko Jacket & Robe

Rickie Skirt 

Stina Everyday Tote Bag

Scarf

Headband 

As usual in her books there are a variety of models from her circle of friends and acquaintances. There are both young and old, male and female, although probably half of the model photos are of Lotta herself. She's really trying to make these patterns appeal to both men and women, but I'm not sure it it carries over fully. The styles are very much in her aesthetic, boxy fits and lots of cotton and linen. If you are a Lotta fan these will appeal to you, although these days I'd say there are many similar patterns out there from tons of indie designers. 

I liked this one for its visuals - great photos, nice cohesion to the wardrobe patterns, great fabric choices. But I can't give the book itself a perfect review because of the massive issues with pattern errors. There is an enormous list of pattern errata at the Abrams website, for nearly every pattern. And if you want to download and print the fixed patterns, they are all only available in copyshop format. So if you want to spend more than the book's price on getting all the patterns that were supposed to be included as traceable in the book itself on reprinting copyshop versions of the patterns, go for it. But I won't be doing that. A skilled sewist might be able to recognize the pattern issues and redraft, but why should someone who has bought this for the patterns have to do that? **ETA: a reader notes in the comments that it is indeed possible to tile these files in Adobe and print them yourself, if you want to try that. 

The patterns seem to mostly have sizing lines labelled incorrectly, with a few of the patterns having fully revised pattern sheets to download. I can't quite tell if that is because of the sizing marking issues, or further issues though, since I have not downloaded the new pattern sheets. 

So this was both beautiful to look at, and inspiring when thinking about simple sewing and a capsule wardrobe. But I feel badly for the author that the technical aspects of the publication lower the value overall. 

Weekend Review: Radical Sewing

Radical Sewing / Kate Weiss 
Portland, OR: Microcosm Publishing, c2021.
192 p.

I was lucky to find this one via my library's online collection. Although I don't usually like sewing books in online formats generally, this one has the subtitle "Pattern-Free, Sustainable Fashions for All Bodies", so I thought a sewing book without patterns might be okay to read in e-book format! 

It was an interesting read, put out by a publishing company that has many other books on sustainable, alternative kind of topics. I thought it was a neat approach, bound to appeal to a different kind of audience; however, I didn't quite love it. I found the tone was a bit uneven, at times feeling like the author was speaking to beginners but at other times more aimed at those familiar with sewing -- the terminology sometimes felt like you should know a bit about sewing to really get the book. Which I did, but someone newer to the sewing world might feel a bit intimidated. And from the cover copy, it does seem like the gist of the book is to get newbies into sewing.

Additionally, despite the subtitle, there is a whole chapter of this book that talks about how to read and understand a sewing pattern. As that chapter begins, she acknowledges that despite the title, you may sometimes need to understand patterns. I agree, but wonder if a change in subtitle might have been more effective in getting across all the elements of this book. 

However, it was a pretty good overview that might appeal to a certain kind of reader already interested in zines, alternatives and 'radical' things in general. It has some funky drawings/illustrations and gives enough info for someone to actually learn quite a bit about sewing well. 

You can find out more about this one, and see some interior pages to help you judge the style and see if it's one for you, over at the publisher's website. 

Weekend Review: Your Skirt, Your Way

 

Your Skirt, Your Way / Jenniffer Taylor
Search Press, c2020.
128 p.

This is another book by a former Great British Sewing Bee contestant. It's the second book by Jenniffer Taylor, whose first book, Girl With a Sewing Machine, was published in 2020 shortly after her GBSB appearance. 

This book is a really interesting one for adventurous beginners, or those more accomplished sewists who want to create their own block to then make into a variety of skirts. There are 10 distinct skirts included in the book for readers to create.

The book starts with an intro, recommending necessary tools and basics, then moves into how to create your block based on your measurements. This section includes how to measure, how to draw out a block and how to create a toile to check fit. 

Then the following sections cover six shapes of skirt, waistbands, facings, zips and buttons, and then a section on pockets, yokes, hems and vents. There is a lot of info for sewists to use here. 

The final 40 pages are the actual skirt "recipes", as she calls them. They are not quite patterns, but the instructions about how to make the pattern based on your block -- and then how to construct them. I think there are many options here, with a style to suit every reader. And the details are cute too - I love the pockets on the flared Kate skirt.

I thought that this book was really well done, at just the right level for an ambitious beginner, straightforward but not overly simple. Skirts are a great starter project, and are also a good way to take a stab at pattern making. There is solid instruction, lots of photos, and some creative yet very wearable projects in this book -- a winner. 

Weekend Review: Sew Chinelo

Sew Chinelo / Chinelo Bally
Collins & Brown, c2021.
176 p.

I am a big fan of the Great British Sewing Bee, and Chinelo was one of my favourite contestants. I read the first book she put out after her appearance, Freehand Fashion, and so really wanted to check out this one as well. 

Unfortunately, this one wasn't really a book for me. The focus here is partially upcycling (the subtitle references Sustainable Style after all). And I do love upcycling, but the projects in this book don't appeal to me personally. There are lots of wrap dress/skirt, wide off-the-shoulder collars, strapless maxis, and kids clothes. None of those are my style at all. So, while this isn't a book for me, it could definitely be one for other readers. 

Aside from my personal aesthetic, there is a lot to admire about this book. If this kind of refashioning and youthful style is your thing, then you'll love it. It provides a variety of projects, so you could make a whole outfit or two. There are 11 adult projects, and 3 children's. They combine Chinelo's Freehand cutting style with the previously mentioned upcycling projects. And there is quite a good section on techniques - from bias binding tips to seam finishes, zips and hems, there are step-by-step illustrated instructions included. Plus a great section of taking measurements, which includes photographs to make the spots to measure very clear to new sewists. 

The one project that really intrigued me was the maxi dress, but mostly for the bodice. Chinelo uses a pair of men's suit trousers, takes them apart and uses them for the fabric of the bodice, which is a basic sleeveless scoop neck, princess seam bodice. It works quite well & if there was enough fabric to add some cap sleeves this is one I might try myself, although I'd change the skirt. She also finishes the book with a one-shoulder jumpsuit, and while there is no way I'd ever make that, it is finished with a huge floral corsage, in the same suiting fabric, on one shoulder. That was eye-catching and the instructions make it seem really easy -- would love to make one for other uses! 

So, not the best book for my style, but interesting nonetheless, and it might just appeal to you. Worth checking out. 

 

Weekend Review: Sewing Your Perfect Capsule Wardrobe

 

Sewing Your Perfect Capsule Wardrobe /
Arianna Cadwallader & Cathy McKinnon
London: Kyle Books, c2017.
175 p.

I recently got this book from my library; it's one I've seen mentioned here and there, and thought it would be interesting to see the advice about a capsule wardrobe given here. Well, I'm glad I got it from the library, because overall I found it a bit underwhelming. 

The book is organized into a structure around 5 core garments: The Vest Top (a tank top in North American speak), Basic Skirt, Shift Dress, Trousers, and Blouse. These are all fairly basic silhouettes -- the book is aimed at the advanced beginner, which I think is about the right level for these designs. There are fold-out pattern sheets included in the book, so you can trace and alter right away. Each basic piece has a straightforward main pattern, then tells you how to alter and redesign the piece to create something different, sometimes just a hair of difference but others are quite changed. You go from a below-knee pencil skirt to a short a-line, for example. There are also discussions of style changes you can make -- changing a neckline/collar, sleeve style, adding embellishment, etc. to really take these patterns and expand them in your wardrobe. 

I obviously like this idea a lot. However, this book as the main source of this kind of capsule wardrobe seems limited to me. The sizing is miniscule -- there is a range of 6 sizes with a 10" difference between them. Bust 32-42, Waist 24-34, Hip 33-43. It's a small range, and I fall near the top. So the actual patterns in this book will only be useful for a small proportion of sewists. And the patterns are also pretty standard, so any sewist who has been at it long enough will most likely already own similar pattern styles already -- some could even be equated to a few of the more well-known free patterns out there. 

The ideas for changing a base pattern into new styles are pretty handy here, though. They start with the "main" pattern and give a "sister" style then some other ideas for additional changes. You could take those ideas and apply them to the patterns you prefer to use. That might be the takeaway here. 

There isn't really a discussion about putting together a capsule wardrobe in the more traditional sense - they don't talk fashion, per se. To me, the book is more about creating a Capsule Pattern Collection. And that can be a good way to focus your sewing in light of the incentive to buy so many new and exciting patterns out there! 

So my view on this book is: good idea, some interesting ideas and instruction, but a fail when it comes to providing actual patterns that are useful for more than a sliver of readers. 

Weekend Review: Make, Sew & Mend

Make, Sew and Mend / Bernadette Banner 
Salem, MA: Page Street Publishing, c2022
200 p.

This is a new book by the popular historical sewist/blogger Bernadette Banner. I must admit I haven't really followed her closely in the past, as hand sewing and historical costuming isn't my main area of interest. But I have certainly heard about her. So when this book showed up in my library, I had to check it out! The subtitle also caught my attention: traditional techniques to sustainably maintain and refashion your clothes. 

The book is set out in sections: Preparing Materials (fiber, cutting, pinning etc); Stitches (lots of hand stitch examples and how and when to use them); Applications (seams finishing, pressing, buttons, extras like pleats & insertions); Practical Alterations (adding pockets or sleeve gussets, hemming -- this is the entirety of the 'refashion' bits); and Care & Feeding (mending). In between these section are 5 different page long features on other sewists -- there is a range of people profiled, although all are quite young. I appreciated the attempt to widen the visibility of the sewing world, but the profiles didn't really seem to fit with the focus of the rest of the book, even if a couple did sew vintage and/or traditional clothing.

There wasn't anything here that was new to me, but it was nice to see some of the more detailed handwork talked about. And the discussion of the 'extras', including buttons and tucks, was interesting.

I thought it was a lovely book to look at, and will certainly appeal to fans of Bernadette Banner. I wouldn't recommend it to beginners, as the focus on hand sewing techniques, finishings and detail work are more likely to be of use to those who are already familiar with sewing and want to add some techniques and skills to their repertoire. Younger people who are getting into sewing via refashioning thrift finds would be better served by other titles, as this one, despite the subtitle, doesn't really go in that direction. It's a quieter and more detailed read, and sewists wanting to move toward slower sewing might really like it. 

Weekend Review: Ultimate Illustrated Guide to Sewing Clothes

 

The Ultimate Illustrated Guide to Sewing Clothes / Joi Mahon
Mount Joy : Fox Chapel Publishing, ©2022
288 p.

Today's read is an encyclopedic approach to sewing -- the "ultimate" guide, and a "complete course" on sewing garments. It's only 288 pages long, with many illustrations, so while it is a decent reference book I think it overstates its claim a little ;) 

I liked it for many features. As mentioned, it's heavily illustrated with clear photos, and has some good tidbits in it even for someone who has been sewing for a long time. However, I wouldn't suggest it for a beginner, and that's because, even though it's giving the basics and an overview of many things, I think you'd need to be familiar with what's being shared to really benefit from it. This might be an effect of trying to include an awful lot of subject areas.

It's broken up into 6 chapters; Sewing Basics, Selecting and Preparing Fabric, Achieving the Right Fit, Sewing Classic Garments, Ultimate Pants Workbook, and finally, Details of  Garment Construction. I think the first two are accessible, and the fabric section has a clear explanation of how and why to straighten fabric grain before cutting - something I don't see in many books like this. In the Basics section, there is a long segment on hand stitches, which I thought was a bit longer than needed; as with all books on stitching it's hard to explain the process of getting to the final picture of the stitch. 

The Fit section is good, but I'd recommend getting Joi Mahon's full book on fitting if that is what you're after. This section could be a bit overwhelming for beginners and not enough for advanced sewists. She does have a great section on measuring yourself, though, and I've never seen another author offer such detailed measurement options. Her fit book has all of this and more, though, so definitely check that one out if fitting is your main interest. 

The section on sewing classic garments was interesting but seemed, again, too much and not enough. There is a list of construction order for a few standard pieces, with directions to check the construction chapter for details on various elements. Helpful if you already kind of know your way around a garment. There is a lengthy bit on constructing a tailored jacket, and even as an established sewist who is interested in tailoring, I found this a bit complex. There are good tips in all the sections, and the pants section is interesting-- it feels like it might have been an existing workbook she used in her teaching that was slotted in here. 

Overall, I liked it and as I said I did find good bits throughout. But this isn't a must have for me, it just feels a little scattered. There's solid info on pattern matching, basic fitting, a good intro to fabric choice and care, and more. But I didn't feel a strong throughline to the organization of it. I'll probably use her fitting book a lot more often! But this is still well worth checking out if you can find it in your local library as I did. 

Spring Suki in Sateen

A while back I read and reviewed Tilly and the Buttons' Make It Simple sewing book. At that point I mentioned that I was most interested in the Suki Dress from that book. Well, I was sorting through the stash and came across a cotton sateen that I bought a long time ago, and thought that this was a perfect match. 

The suggested fabric for the Suki is something with more drape or flow, but I like a structured garment, and thought that this fabric would work well. It did! The only issue I have with it is that it is a bit see-through so will be wearing a full slip with it, nothing too bad. 

I cut a size 5/6 which seemed to work well for my measurements. It's a simple dress, which you could wear loose without a belt if you were going for a cocoon look, but not with a stiffer fabric like this one - it's more like an egg. With the belt it's fabulous. I had some trouble getting the belt loops sewn on neatly, but you can't tell so all that matters is that they are secure ;) 

The belt is actually a really nice feature, transportable to a standalone pattern. It's not just a sash, it is a wide belt for 3/4 of it's length, with narrow ties sewn into the front. I really like the effect, it's easy to tie without a bulky knot at the front, and just adds a little extra detail to this fairly simple outfit. 

My changes were that I added side seam pockets, using my favourite pocket bag pattern. I just made sure to mark the waistline on the pattern so that I could place the pockets correctly. Tilly suggests trying on the dress before placing the belt loops; I found that they needed to be slightly higher than I'd first thought, so trying it on first is a great plan. (I had the shoulders sewn together but the sides only pinned, so I could sew the loops on a flat piece of fabric afterward.)

I shortened the dress before cutting it out but found that with the belt on I could have left another inch for a hem. As it was, I didn't want it much shorter than it was cut, so ended up giving it a hem facing using some premade vintage bias binding (very lightweight, unlike modern cotton-poly binding). That gave me a 1/4" hem, which was perfect, and also gave a very pretty finish. 

I'm quite pleased with this dress. The simple silhouette really highlights this bright and bold print, and the small details are nice. I might make this style of  belt for other outfits too! Another of my blue & yellow Spring projects complete :) 

Styled for this still cool Spring day

Weekend Review: Creative Dressing by Kaori O'Connor

 

Creative Dressing / Kaori O'Connor
Boston, MA: Routledge & Kegan Paul, c1981.
192 p.

This is a book from 1981 that I found at a thrift shop - I don't think it would be published today, due to the items included being on the cultural appropriation spectrum. However, it is an interesting look at what was "designer" influenced in the late 70s, and does give some insight into more traditional items of clothing and the fact that many of them are zero or low waste by design. 

It's made up of about half sewing and half knitting patterns -- I'm only commenting on the sewing ones, as I have no knowledge of knitting so can't judge those ones other than by appearance. The sewing patterns include items like a basic mock-kimono, poncho top and skirt, Balinese trousers, Indochinese jacket, Ottoman Kusak Dressing Gown, Indian shirt dress, fabric shoulder bag, Singapore Pyjamas, Tartar Khalat Coat, Chinese jacket and side slit skirt and Translyvanian Peasant Shirt. 

These are all presented on graphs ready for scaling up - that tells you how straightforward most of the pattern pieces are. Alongside these are copies of 70s chic designer outfits like a sundress, t-shirt dress, or bodysuit (among others) as well as the insertion of a few nightgowns & historical outfits. This book covers it all. 

The styling of these are so 70s and mostly really out of date; the traditional designs are of course timeless but in lovely 70s fabric and photography so you really have to look past that to the style lines. There are a bunch of designs offered by a variety of other designers in addition to the traditional items I was most interested in. But, the sizing is TINY. I think the biggest waist size for skirts & trousers was 28" as far as I could tell. And most of the items are one size, for a bust between 34-38" if they are voluminous at the waist.

If you take this as a visit to the past, it can show you a lot. And the basic outlines of classic patterns were interesting to examine. I was particularly interested in the Peasant Shirt, as the basic shape is similar to a Ukrainian vyshyvanka, which I'd like to make for myself this year. However, other than as a 70s redux I'm not sure that this book is actually all that practical for modern sewists. Also, the wholesale use of designs across multiple cultures is a bit cringe-worthy these days.  Still, I found it weirdly compelling - all that 70s glamour... Rather eye dazzling. This is one to flip through for its retro interest, but not to truly recommend. 

Weekend Review: Zero Waste Sewing

 

Zero Waste Sewing / Elizabeth Haywood
Clare, South Australia: Cooatalaa Press, 2020.
142 p.

If you're interested in sustainability and the idea of zero waste sewing, this homey book is a must read! Liz Haywood is a patternmaker from Australia, with years of experience in pattern cutting and design, and she's been investigating zero waste for a while. This book offers 16 patterns and variations for sewists to give this a try -- if you're new to zero waste, as I am, I can assure you that there are a variety of styles here, and they are very approachable. 

You can find a lot of info about this book at Liz Haywood's website, The Craft of Clothes, as well as lots of other fascinating content and some free patterns to try out. She also has an Etsy store where you can buy her books and many other patterns not in this book. Lots to explore! 

But on to the book. Here are the patterns included (from her website):

The photos are clear, and feel like blog photos - real people wearing interesting clothes, and inspirational in a down to earth way. I like the vibe a lot. The patterns are diagrams, with lots of sketches and lots of explanations of how they work and how you put things together. 

It's broken up into sections, or themes: making tops from squares of fabric, one-seam cuts, and tessellated layouts. She goes into detail, particularly in the one seam section, about the traditional and historical roots of this kind of clothing design. From the infamous Bog Coat to traditional kimonos and more, one seam garments are found throughout history. I enjoyed the context she shares about the techniques and background to her own designs. 

This is the pattern I'm most eager to try - the first one in the book, the Tie Front Top. I love that it doesn't look bulky or voluminous. I was hoping to have one made by the time I reviewed this book, but I didn't get there. 

I was impressed by the variety of designs in the book and the generous sharing of information in each section. Sometimes I find that Zero Waste designs just look odd and billowy in a way that doesn't appeal to me, but not here. Liz Haywood spoke to our local Garment Guild recently, and I was inspired by her breadth of knowledge and seemingly endless ideas. 

Really a solid book, immediately useful and giving a great introduction to an area of sewing that is still fairly new. Recommended!

Weekend Review: Make It Simple

 

Make It Simple / Tilly Walnes
London: Quadrille, c2020
207 p.

Another pattern book this weekend, this is one I've been wanting to get a look at for a while. Tilly Walnes, of the well-known company Tilly and the Buttons, has written a few books - this is the third. I like a quick sewing project with simple construction, so was quite interested to see what this book suggested. 

There are 6 patterns included, each with a couple of variations. There are also a couple of small projects like an eye mask included. Pattern sheets are in the back of the book for tracing; I traced off the Suki dress, but it was a little tricky since by necessity a lot of the patterns overlap. Not quite as tricky as a Burda magazine, but the pattern lines could be improved by using different colours for each pattern's lines. The patterns are: 

• Safiya Trousers
• Tabitha T-shirt
• Suki Dress 
• Bertha Cardigan 
• Juno Pyjamas
• Olive Pinafore

The sizing runs from 1-10, which translates into a 30"B/33"H to a 48"B/51"H. And the models in the book are of varied sizes as well, which shows the patterns on different bodies. 

The book also includes sections on sewing basics, plus tips for "shortcuts" to speed up your sewing. The patterns are pretty straightforward and aimed at being quick makes. This does mean that they are all a bit bland, without any extra details, but you can always use a simple pattern to highlight a great fabric, or add some details on your own. 

There are sections between the project chapters that suggest quick projects you can make between bigger projects, ways to maximize your sewing time, how to recognize what makes a quick project and so on. And each project has a quick list of 'shortcut steps' to speed up construction as well.

Overall it's a solid book, but not for rank beginners -- they might do better to start out with Tilly's first book, Love At First Stitch, just because the projects are thoroughly explained step by step, assuming no knowledge at all in that one. This book is fairly simple but does assume some familiarity with sewing. 

I was personally most interested in the Suki dress and the Olive Pinafore; I traced the dress but haven't tried it quite yet. We'll see how it goes! 

Weekend Review: Work to Weekend Wardrobe

House of Pinheiro's Work to Weekend Wardrobe / Rachel Pinheiro
Exeter: David & Charles, c2020
127 p.

I recently took a look at this sewing book released by a well known British-based Brazilian sewing blogger. I was interested in the concept; taking one pattern and moving it from 'work to weekend' with styling and fabric choice etc. It kind of works. 

The book is laid out by day, so, there are 7 patterns included. They range across a wardrobe, from trousers/jumpsuits to shirts/tees and suits. Sunday's projects even include a backpack and organizer. Each pattern is made up 'straight', so to speak, and then there are some adaptations suggested for each. For example, Tuesday's project is a basic dress:

There is quite a lot of sewing info included as well, both the basics and a bit more, from fitting tips like a chart to help you read wrinkles and fix issues, to info on finishing and alterations. The pattern instructions and diagrams are also fairly clear.

Unfortunately for my purposes, the aesthetic isn't really mine. I wasn't caught by any of the patterns enough to spend time on tracing them off. (There are pattern sheets in the book so that you can trace any of the patterns). But the biggest issue with this book is that the size range is extraordinarily limited. The patterns are drafted for a height of 5'7" and come in sizes 1-5. That means a range from a 33-39" bust / 25-31" waist / 37 - 43.5" hip. That's really limited for most sewists -- I fall at the very top of the range and my waist is bigger than the biggest size. I'm not sure why this decision was made, but it does make the book less appealing to a lot of potential readers.  

If you're a fan of House of Pinheiro already and know that her aesthetic is more in line with yours, you might still find this an interesting read. There are many solid sewing basics in the intro pages and the instructions so you will certainly find something useful there.  A chart explaining interfacing options was a useful element, for example. But as an actual pattern book, I didn't connect with this one very well at all. 

Weekend Review: The Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses

 

Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses / Connie Long
Newtown, CT: Taunton, c1997
112 p.

This is another title in the Sewing Companion Library, and as always, it's a good one. Connie Long's book on jackets really helped me out with my last project, and now that I'm planning on making a handful of blouses to go with the blazers I'm making, it's time to investigate the tips in this book too. 

This book is really focused on more traditional blouses -- those kind of projects featured on the cover -- blouses that are made with lighter and silkier fabrics. It's not really about button down men's style shirts as much as more delicate ones. For example, in the section on plackets, there is no mention of a tower placket. Just a continuous lap or a slit, or finishing with a cuff or a row of buttons and loops; more traditionally 'feminine' styles. 

Because this topic is so huge there are just basics in each section for the most part, you're not going to find every single variation possible. But the intro talks about selecting fabrics and patterns to suit you, and then looking at the different techniques outlined in the book so that you can choose to do it in a way that makes sense to you from the various offerings. The author says straight up that there isn't just one way to do anything. 

The book is made up of sections on selecting a pattern and fabric, adjusting and modifying the pattern, marking and cutting fabric, and then 13 separate bits on techniques for different areas like hems, cuffs, plackets, collars, sleeves, pockets, closures and so on. 

There's a lot here to refer to and some handy tips in all areas. Like other books in this series, there is a lot packed into relatively few pages, heavily illustrated with photos in all sections as well. While I didn't find it quite as thoroughly laid out as the tailoring book in this series, I still think it's excellent value. As with the other books in this series, recommended. 

Weekend Review: The Easy Guide to Sewing Linings

 

The Easy Guide to Sewing Linings / Connie Long
Newton, CT: Taunton, c1998.
153 p.

I'm starting off this year of book reviews with this older title that I've had on my shelf for a while. I've been reading through it a lot over the last couple of weeks -- it saved my bacon when I realized I'd lost page 2 of the instructions to New Look 6159, a jacket that I was making for the #DesignInDecember challenge -- of course, that was the part with the instructions for the lining. 

Not to worry, this book came to the rescue. It's one of a series of "Easy Guides" published by Taunton; each that I've read so far is really practical and useful. I was very happy that this particular one was on my shelf though.

It has 10 chapters: an intro, and then sections specifically on lining jackets, coats, vests, skirts, pants, dresses, sheer/lace, sweaters, and vents. Each section is clearly laid out, with precise and to the point instructions for the technique under discussion. There are lots of photos to illustrate as well, which I found helpful. Of course, the section I was turning to most was the jacket lining bits, but even there, the book doesn't show just one way to do things. Rather, there are 3 different methods shared. By hand, by machine, and a hybrid. The hybrid method is the one I am familiar with via Burda, so it seemed most obvious and easiest for me to figure out with my project. It's when you sew the lining to the facing but then finish the sleeve and bottom hems with hand stitching. I appreciated that all methods were described though. 

I've used this book before when trying to get my head around lining a skirt vent, and that was a great addition to the Burda instructions I was following. Once again, different methods are explained and illustrated, depending on the kind of vent you're making. I like that this book doesn't try to tell you that there is one right way to do anything; instead it offers different levels of solutions for many different lining situations. 

Also, the basic info at the beginning is quite helpful. There is a discussion of types of lining materials and why and when you might want to choose a particular one. There's info on lining a patch pocket, and finishing hems in a few different ways. Each chapter also includes instruction on creating a lining for a pattern that doesn't have one. Basically all the foundational facts on lining are included in this small book - it's kind of amazing that it's so full of detail. After I read the jacket chapter I couldn't help but browse through the rest of the book again. There's so much to learn here. 

Recommended for anyone wanting to get a lining popped in to a project, especially if you've lost your pattern instructions ;)  Unfortunately it's out of print, but as always, check your local library and second hand dealers if you'd like to get a copy of this yourself. 

Weekend Review: Sew Sustainably by Wendy Ward

 

How to Sew Sustainably / Wendy Ward
London : CICO Books, 2021.
160 p.

Carrying on from last week's book list of reading on sustainable sewing, here's a must read if you're interested in this topic! Wendy Ward has written a handful of other sewing books, all well done, and runs a pattern company as well (MIY Collection). She really has a specific style, and it's clearly on show in this book.

So this particular title is about using up all the smaller bits of fabric we all have left after sewing, as well as trying to reduce those leftovers through low waste cutting. There are no pattern sheets in this book; everything is done via measurement, like many zero waste patterns out there. And this book isn't limited to clothing ideas, either -- there are directions for art pieces too and accessories like bags and scarves too.

The cover image is a good example of the chapter on piecing; how to put together scraps into another appealing garment. (One that I really like here, shown on the back cover above -- lengthening a dress by inserting a strip of pieced fabric in coordinating colours. So cool!) This is definitely a great idea if this aesthetic matches yours. Some people will love it, others won't find it jumps on to their to-do list. There are a couple of designs for new or larger pieces of fabric, including a huge batwing style tunic/dress and a dropped crotch pair of pants. Like we're talking knee level or lower crotch. So it's definitely cool and unique, but not something I myself might make. But reading through the concepts does start to make you think a bit more about the fabrics you have and how to use them. 

I liked the idea of including fabric scrap art projects -- some were wall art, some notecards or pieces to applique to a garment. There were a couple of techniques shown, and this might be a way readers could experiment with scraps to see if they like the process and results. I think this kind of freeform scrap use is rather fun! 

As in all of her books there is a good strong section on basic techniques. If someone who doesn't really sew much or is just learning picks up this book, they'll have enough to get started right away. And there is also a section at the end of the book on refashioning and "aftercare" -- mending and caring for garments. 

Well planned out, great photographs, unusual projects -- if you like this scrappy, edgy aesthetic, you'll like this one. Even if you don't there are some interesting ideas and techniques shared, so I am glad I read it even if most of the projects are not for me personally. I think it would really appeal to a certain kind of sewist though -- if you know someone who likes to experiment and freeform their sewing and is also concerned with sustainability, this might be a hit. 

Weekend Review: Gertie Sews Vintage Casual

 

Gertie Sews Vintage Casual / Gretchen Hirsch
NY: Abrams, c2014.
224 p.

This is another entry into the sewing series by Gretchen Hirsch, blogger, designer and owner of Charm Patterns. I picked this older book up on sale to add to my sewing book collection, and it's a cute book. Lots of mid-century charm here, and unusually for Gertie, it even includes pants -- not that I will be likely to make them, since I don't usually make pants ;)

This book follows the same structure as her others. It's even bound the same, with coil binding inside a hard cover and lots of bright colours, photos, and vintage sketches too. It opens with a section on sewing casual clothes, particularly instruction on sewing knits, and guidance on pants sewing and general fitting. You'd think casual clothes/sportswear would be simpler to sew than fancy dresses, but really it's not. Lots more techniques to learn and practice here. There's even a section on patternmaking -- adding collars, cuffs, pockets, pleats etc. and changing up necklines and hems, for example. 

(photos via Gertie's blog)

The second part of the book is the patterns. There is a super wide variety in this book. There are 3 tops and a sweater, 2 skirts, 3 dresses, and one basic pant with many variations. Each of these patterns has variations that change them significantly so in all there are about 24 separate looks to make. They are chic and cute designs that fit in with Gertie's retro aesthetic, and the models are varied too, it's not just Gertie this time. 

The sizing runs from 2--16 (or B32/W24/H36 to B46/W38/H50) and seam allowances are included on the patterns. The patterns are all on folded sheets in the back of the book to be traced off. I like how the basic pattern for each is traceable, and then the variations within each chapter show you how to alter and redraw style lines to create new looks. I think that this might make sewists more comfortable with doing this kind of pattern manipulation on other patterns they may own. 

This collection is more everyday wear friendly than her other books, at least for most people. I like the casual dresses since those are often my go-to for everyday. There is a simple knit pencil skirt that I may test out for my first project from this book, since I'm really into the skirt suit look this year. This was enjoyable to look through, and there is also some historical info (and movie recs) in the first half which is really interesting too. I liked this!

Weekend Review: Merchant & Mills Elementary Sewing Skills

Elementary Sewing Skills / Carolyn N.K. Denham

London: Pavilion, c2014

160 p.

This is a little book I found at my library so of course I had to check it out.  It's very on brand for Merchant & Mills!

It's a small book, in actual size and page count, and does exactly what it promised, gives guidance on elementary, foundational sewing skills that beginners would need to know in order to sew well.

Information in the book is fairly clear and useful. Good basics of sewing up a pattern, from an explanation of paper patterns and how to use them, to pressing, and some minor fit adjustments. It really is elementary-- there are no 'extras', just the basics of seams, zips, buttons etc. 

However, the dedication to the Merchant & Mills aesthetic makes this less useful as a modern sewing text. It certainly makes it visually appealing in a very vintage way -- it's illustrated by pen & ink effect line drawings, along with some moody photos which evoke their pattern cover images.

I felt that it was a little consciously twee, with an old fashioned feel to it. While it certainly fits their brand, I am not sure new sewists of today prefer this kind of introduction to the elements of sewing. More experienced sewists and those who appreciate the Merchant & Mills style overall might find this book to their tastes, even if the information is not new to them. I can appreciate it as a lovely item while not really buying it as a beginner intro that will have much appeal. 

Weekend Review: Jackets, Coats and Suits

Jackets, Coats and Suits / Threads Magazine
Newtown, CT: Taunton Press, c1992.
94 p.

After last week's book all about pockets, I thought I'd pull out this Threads sources book all about jackets. I've had it for quite some time. 

It's a collection of articles from Threads prior to 1992, so the styles are a bit dated (some in a very fun way). But the techniques are thorough and solid, as expected from a set of articles written by people like David Page Coffin, Claire Shaeffer, Marcy Tilton, and more. 

There's an interesting look at the construction of Armani jackets, as well as Dior influenced styles. And specific articles on shaping wool with pressing, creating welt pockets, copying RTW designs, and even an example of brightly coloured, quilted reversible jackets. There's lots to learn. And if you're interested in American designers, you'll find a nice piece on Bonnie Cashin and the influence she had on fashion -- this article includes a pattern that you can copy using a grid or by measurements, for a Cashin Noh Coat. 

If you don't have all the hard copy back issues of Threads, this collection of articles is a useful one. You'll have lots to reference on classic tailoring and coat construction. There's a variety of styles and topics here to investigate and it may spark interest in something you haven't seen before.