Full Moon Bag for the Literary Sewing Circle

After my recent bagmaking workshop, I was inspired to make another bag for my Literary Sewing Circle project! I chose the Full Moon bag by All Well patterns, in a nod to the title of our book as well as the folktale about Chu Cuoi , the man in the moon. 

I had some cream corduroy left over from my recent attempt at a Vogue jacket, and I thought it would make a lovely bag. Along with the corduroy, I had all the necessary items - binding, interfacing and some fittings from a cheaper bag I thrifted a year or more ago. I took that bag apart and used the tabs and strap to give some contrast to this moon coloured Full Moon bag. It's like moonlight and shadow ;) 

This bag is a free pattern, and it's pretty straightforward. There is no lining but I interfaced all of my corduroy pieces with a medium weight fusible to give it a bit more heft. There is a pocket on the outside, and one on the inside. 

The hardest part was sewing bias binding over the interior seams. I was very glad I had some little clips when doing this, as pins were impossible. It's pretty messy, but it's inside so as long as I caught all the edges in I wasn't about to unpick unless absolutely necessary ;) I also used a black 12" zip from my stash as contrast, and I like the effect. 

The trick with this fabric was to be sure to cut it with the nap going down, on all pieces. That way the bag feels smooth when I'm holding it or moving it around - the opposite direction feels awful to my hands and I would never use a bag that felt like petting a cat the wrong way! It was also a bit thick to sew through when there were multiple layers at an intersection; I only broke one needle though. It was too lightweight, when I replaced it with a 90/14 it worked very well, as long as I was going at a slower speed and paying attention. 

This is quite a nice bag, and I really like the finished effect! It's big enough to slip a paperback into for those times that you need some backup, too ;) At least if you make the "large" size option like I did - there is also an option for a "small" that could be very cute in a fancy fabric. I find that the chain is a tiny bit long on my short body so I may take a few links out. But with the tabs I can always switch out straps as well. I enjoyed making this, the second bag I've ever made (excluding tote bags). Definitely an easy go for a newbie like me. 

An Oxford Dress for the Literary Sewing Circle

It's time for me to share my project for this round of the Literary Sewing Circle! I considered many things, including patterns that I already owned and plan on making someday. But I couldn't get the Oxford Dress by Treize Cocquelicot out of my mind, after sharing it in our first inspiration post. So I went for it! 

I used some watery print rayon from my stash - I have had it for a long time so was pleased to use it. I only had 2.5 m however, so had to make the short sleeve version. I intend to make the puffed and cuffed longer sleeve another time! This view worked really well with the short sleeve, however, as the rayon challis is very soft and probably wouldn't hold the shape of the puffed sleeve anyhow. 

My alterations were very minimal. I added 1" to the skirt length, graded it from 42 at neck to 44 at waist, and added pockets. I didn't have enough fabric left for four pocket bags, so I pieced together the largest scraps I had and cut the pockets from those bits. The skirt is so full there was no need to worry about seams showing through. This is all I have left from my 2.5 m! 

I stitched the top of the pocket bags into the waist seam to anchor them and this seems to have worked well. I changed a few things in the construction as well - the bodice is lined, and you are supposed to sew the main piece to the skirt then hand stitch down the lining over that seam, for a beautiful clean finish. I just sewed it all together as one and zigzag finished the seam, pressing up to the bodice. There is a slit at the back neck so you can get this over your head, and instead of making a thread loop I sewed a little elastic loop into the opening edge. The pattern suggests this as well as a few more ideas for that area.

The only unusual things about this pattern come from the translation, mainly. The back button loop is called a "flange" but she means the button loop. Also, it's important to note that the sleeve notches are the reverse of English patterns; the front notch is a double notch, and the back one is single. I made a special note on the pattern pieces when I traced them so I would not forget this! 

Overall this was a quick and uncomplicated project. I really like the floatiness of the rayon and it's a cute basic summer dress. While I was sewing I was worrying that the bodice looked quite small but it isn't, it fit just right according to the size I cut corresponding to my measurements (which is generally 42/44 just like Burda). The pattern runs from 32-48 in European sizes so it is fairly limited, unfortunately, as it's a really lovely design. 

I enjoyed making this Oxford Dress from a print reminiscent of the river, or maybe Colonel Mering's fishpond! I hope you have all enjoyed reading and found a fun project to make as well. 

20s Inspired Talulah for The Blue Castle

 

I had many ideas for my project for The Blue Castle round of the Literary Sewing Circle - many of the suggestions I made in our inspiration posts were things I was considering myself. But as I was rereading some passages in the book, I came across this image from when Valancy and Barney were going to town to be married, and I just couldn't get it out of my head: 

Everything seemed more dream-like than ever. Valancy didn't know whether she felt happy. Or terrified. Or just plain fool. 

Then the lights of Port Lawrence were about them. Valancy felt as if she were surrounded by the gleaming, hungry eyes of hundreds of great, stealthy panthers. 

To me this felt like a dark rainy night with lots of blurred coloured lights shining and reflecting, showing Valancy's confusion at the life changes she was experiencing. And I had a fabric that made me think of this exact image, too. 

I matched up this light poly-blend knit with a dress that has a 20s inspired silhouette, the Talulah by Style Arc. I've been meaning to make this for a while, in fact it was on my 2021 Make Nine list! So I thought the 20s inspiration together with the quote made for a perfect duo.

So now on to the pattern! I traced off a size 12, grading out to about a size 14 at the hip -- I added on about 1/2" to each seam line, and bumped out the sections to be gathered by the same amount so that I didn't skimp on the gathered panels, which are the highlight of the pattern. It worked out well! I also shortened the sleeves by 3", so that they are full length, ending at the wrist. I have short arms. 

The neckband went in nicely, although do note that it is quite a narrow width; if you are thinking of making a contrast band as a feature, you might want to increase the width a bit. I basted it in first to be sure it was the right size and then attached it properly. Easier than picking out a zigzag to begin with. 

I didn't shorten this one at all. I measured the line of gathering so that it would sit right at my lower hip (although the stretch in the fabric has made it sit just a touch lower in wearing) and then measured down to where I wanted it to end. I didn't need to make any adjustments. The pattern as designed is fairly short, ending above the knee but I wanted mine to sit right at the knee. I don't think this pattern would look right if it was longer than mid-knee, the proportions would be off, at least to me. But I left it and it's mid-knee for me as is. I have quite short legs, so if you are making this be sure to measure your pattern well before deciding what to adjust. 

I really, really like this one! There's a shaped centre back seam to give it a nice fit and it really adds to the pattern. I like the fit a lot - in fact I think if I cut it to a length just above the gathers, this pattern would make a nice basic tee as well. I like that it's close fitting but not clinging, and the little swish of the gathered panels is just perfect. The fabric is light but also substantial enough to hold the shape well, and I think the print is such fun. 

I'm happy to be able to think of this as my Valancy dress, and will definitely enjoy it. The only tiny flaw with it is that there are no pockets -- not easy to put into this silhouette. But I will overlook that this time as it is such a fun and comfy outfit!

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A Green Grass Print for Sisters of Grass

For my project for this round of the Literary Sewing Circle, I went with the overall impression I got from this book. Right from the title onward there is such a strong sense of place, of the grasses and sunlight and the landscape that the story is set in. I had been thinking about a print I've had in my stash for a few years now, a lightweight knit that has a grass-like print. I knew I really wanted to use it, but couldn't quite come up with the right pattern match for it. 

But then I put this sense of grass together with an almost throwaway moment near the end. Margaret is shopping for new clothes in Kamloops in preparation for her travels to New York. 

Margaret found the shop where she had bought trousers the previous May -- John T. Beatton, Clothier -- and bought dresses to supplement her rose muslin gown, one of dark blue and a simple green one of soft wool. The saleslady showed her some collars, one of lace, one of beaded silk, that could be worn with the green dress to make it versatile.

While my dress isn't wool, it is green(ish) and it is versatile. I've used my TNT knit pattern, KwikSew 3559, which I can wear in a variety of weather depending on the jacket or sweater I pair with it. I might not be wearing collars but the neckline is a great spotlight for jewellery! This is definitely a daily wear dress that will get much use, likely just as Margaret's green dress would. 

This pattern is pretty straightforward. I am very used to making my adjustments to it, as I've made about 8 tees and 2 dresses from it already. I add width to the hips on the front and back pieces and both narrow and raise the neckline by about an inch. This time I also added pockets to it, although with the very light weight of the dress I'm not sure they will sit right -- but I'll wear it a couple of times and decide. I can always snip them out and sew up the pocket openings if I find I don't like them! 

Since I had some leftover fabric I whipped up a sash as well. It adds options to how I can wear it. Lightly tied it gives some shape to the silhouette but on days I want more swish I'll wear the dress loose. It's super soft and comfy and I'm so pleased to have finally used this fabric that I've had for a long time and have always loved the feel of. And also pleased to have used it in conjunction with such a truly lovely book.  

Pivoine Blouse for the Literary Sewing Circle

When I was thinking about projects for this round of the Literary Sewing Circle, I kept coming back to the Pivoine Blouse by Delphine & Morrissette.

I have owned this blouse pattern for quite a while and always intended to make one, so now is the time. As I said in an inspiration post, Pivoine is French for Peony, so we are nodding both to Peony the cat and to Miss Judson's French background with this pattern. The fabric I chose is an alphabetical novelty print (actually a sheet originally), so it is also reflective of the entire writing world, I'd say.

There are many versions of this blouse in many fabrics, but I thought that this crisp polycotton would give a boxier look to the blouse - which I wanted. I had just enough left from a previous project using this sheet to fit all the pieces of this blouse pattern onto. I wanted to be sure that the letters ran across the top evenly, on the same plane, and that the cuffs were also vertical (which necessitated cutting them on the cross grain). 

This pattern is all in French, and while my French is basic, I only had to search a few words and instructions on Google Translate to be sure I was doing things correctly. There is a good photo laden blog post about the construction of this blouse on Delphine & Morrissette's site, which was also helpful, mostly to be sure I was getting the seam allowances right and doing things in a good order. 

Otherwise I just depended on my sewing experience to help me along. This was actually quite an easy sew, not many tricky bits at all. I used my trusty 1/4" quilting foot to help me get even edgestitching on the button placket and collar band. Then I searched through all 5 of my button tins to try to find a good match for this fabric. I had a basic white shirt button in mind, but when I saw all of my random one-off buttons that just seemed to match the colours in the fabric so well, I made a decision to use multicolour buttons. They are all nearly the same size, so I just made all the buttonholes based on the mid-sized one (the largest was infinitesimally bigger, and the smallest just a hair smaller) and that worked out okay. I worked out my own button placement so I ended up using 8 buttons rather than the 7 called for in the pattern.

I am really pleased with the cute summer feel of this blouse, and I do love a good alphabet print. This is light and floaty and goes with a lot in my wardrobe. I think I'd make this blouse again, maybe in a drapier fabric for a really different look. I enjoyed sewing this while thinking about Myrtle's adventures in Premeditated Myrtle and all the following titles in the series. I hope everyone else participating in this round of the Literary Sewing Circle also enjoyed both the reading and the sewing! 

Lettered Mandy Boat Tee, for the Literary Sewing Circle

 

I finished my project for the Literary Sewing Circle, the Sun Down Motel round! I nearly didn't, because I was waffling between inspirations for this book's project -- I wasn't sure if I wanted to make something more 80s inspired from the 80s storyline (my fave), but this fabric was on my mind from the beginning. So I decided to use it! My first plan of making a Burda swing top didn't work, as I had just too little fabric, so I went for another oversized tee pattern, the free Mandy Boat Tee from Tessuti, which I've made before. It's quite a boxy shape, as you can tell here, but in a light stretchy knit like this one it falls nicely.

The sewing inspo for this one comes from the description of Carly in the contemporary storyline, always dressed like a student in jeans, a tee and a 'stretched out hoodie'. However, my style only extends to the tee part ;) I also thought that this fabric was a great reflection of all the time that Carly spends in the newspaper archives at the Fell Public Library, getting photocopies of all the old clippings mentioning anything about her Aunt Viv or other missing girls. I bought this fabric in Toronto a few years ago now, and am pleased to finally have it off my stash shelf and into my wardrobe :) It also goes well with my recently finished magenta Burda skirt.

This is an easy top, and I find that it works best in lighter knits. It is a bit limited in size, and I add about 1/2" to the arm circumference. You can download this free top pattern at the Tessuti website if you want to give it a go, too. 

I didn't go for an 80s inspiration specifically, but I was able to style this today with the 80s shoes and necklace I thrifted last summer ;) I enjoyed reading this book together with other Literary Sewing Circle participants, and am very comfy in my new literary tee! One of the great features of this top is the neckline darts, a technique I've now used in other knit tops as well. It makes the neckline lie nice and smoothly; download the pattern just to get a look at that if nothing else. I love this print and am happy to  finally be wearing it. 

Check out the Literary Sewing Circle project post for others' makes. And keep your eye on this space for our next Literary Sewing Circle round, coming in Spring 2022. 

Amatkan Metamorphic Dress

I decided to make a second project for the Literary Sewing Circle: once this idea hit me Ihad to do it! I have had this fabulous thrifted fabric for a while, but it's kind of a lining weight poly blend, so I was never sure what to do with it. 

But thanks to Amatka, I had mushrooms on my mind. Then the idea for the Metamorphic Dress by Sew Liberated came to me. What better way to show the role of mushrooms in Amatka than using them on a dress that literally metamorphoses?! I'll have to keep telling it that it's now a Dress. Dress. Dress. 

I also had a fine black linen-rayon blend that is fairly see-through, so it is a perfect combination with this reversible dress, since it has a sort of built in lining. 

I wasn't sure this pattern was for me, though. First off, it's sleeveless. And multiple layering isn't really my aesthetic, and the pinafore style kind of requires even more layering. So I made a few changes.

I made a muslin of the bodice and shortened slightly between shoulder and bust, narrowed the neckline and raised the armscye by a couple of inches. I also slightly lengthened and straightened the waistline, which has a pronounced hi-lo shape, something else I'm not really keen on. I also lengthened the skirt so that it sits at my knee, so that I can wear it as a standalone dress and not just a layering piece with other dresses/pants underneath. 

I used the black linen as the base, with side seam pockets, and the green mushroom print as the overlay, with patch pockets. The linen dress was very straightforward, even though the design does have the inside hem showing when you're wearing that side underneath. So I had to be very careful to keep that hem very straight and tidy. 

The green fabric, however, is very slippery, so took quite a lot more effort to cut and stitch. The curved hem was a bit tricky, I'm glad the wrong side of that one doesn't show ;) 

The patch pockets are also very lightweight, but I won't be using them for much beyond a key so I think they will survive. I added them anyhow since I liked the look. 

Overall I enjoyed the sewing experience. The alterations and the reversible sewing were both interesting challenges and I like the way the sewing came out. I'm still not 100% convinced that this sleeveless, layering style is for me, but I'll wear it a few times and see if it grows on me. Hopefully not literally. 

Fortunately my alterations do make it wearable as a standalone dress, so I should be able to get more use out of it in my daily wear. I'll definitely enjoy the Amatka reference when I do wear it, even if I'm the only one who knows about that part! 

(Reminder if you're reading and sewing along -- you have just under one week to post your finished projects. May 31 is the deadline to link up your project on the finale post so we can all see and enjoy it!)