Factory Top in 30s Print

I have had this project in mind for a while! I had this cotton print in my stash and couldn't figure out what to do with it, it's pretty busy. I decided that making something with very simple lines would be the best choice for this one. I have made the Merchant & Mills Factory Dress before, and have also made a top version, so picked this pattern to remake. 

This was quite finicky, trying to get the pattern matched up, especially across the front. I thought I had done it perfectly, but it's a little off. Not enough to redo it, though, as when looking at it, the strong lines of the print carry through well enough to make it okay. 

I added 6.5" to the bottom of the bodice pattern in order to fold under a 3" hem. I added a band to my first top version of this size, and feel that it helps keep the shape and fall of the top more aligned with the deep double layer. I worried about there being some print show through, but thankfully it's not an issue. 

This took a while to put together, despite the pattern being pretty easy. The print was challenging, as I mentioned, but I was also quite busy over the past couple of weeks and didn't want to work on this tired! Fortunately I've finished it and am pleased with the outcome. I also had a set of buttons from the thrift store that I felt would match this print perfectly - so I added them on as decorative elements along the front seam when I was done. I think this is so cute and will enjoy wearing it! 

Weekend Review: Miss Patch's Learn to Sew Book

 

Miss Patch's Learn to Sew Book / Carolyn Meyer
Boston : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, c1969.
90 p.

This was a cute reprint I found via my library -- it's a simple sewing book aimed at children, 8+ probably. It's quirky, with amusing illustrations and projects that are not too challenging but not too simple either. Note that it was first published in 1969, so there is the assumption that it is little girls reading this and wanting to sew cute things for others. And that those who will help them are mothers, older sisters and aunts. It is a bit noticeable reading it 54 years into the future. 

However, this was entertaining overall, and I found the nostalgic charm appealing -- this is a book I would have been reading in the 70s as a small child and I know I would have liked it then. The sewing information is surprisingly clear and no worries about younger sewists using needles and scissors and irons (although they do suggest adult help when ironing, at least). I think it would still be an easy way to learn some handsewing basics, but of course things have changed quite a bit in the sewing world in terms of easy to use machines etc. over the past 50 years!

It instructs readers on how to gather the needed sewing equipment, how to handsew a seam, with projects like pillows, bags, or some small patchwork and moves on to an apron and easy clothes. It follows the experiences of (slightly ditzy) Miss Patch and her dog Charlie, as Miss Patch learns to sew -- making being a beginner at any age quite normal! The narrative tone is definitely aimed at young girls, but it's not condescending. It sounds very much of its time, but much of it does hold up, and the humour of Miss Patch and Charlie learning and correcting mistakes and so forth makes it an accessible, non-intimidating book for beginners. A really charming visit back to the books of my youth ;) 

A Warm Weather Yellow Jacket

This is one yellow jacket that I am not annoyed by! I used most of the remaining cotton sheet left over after my recent Simplicity 9115 makes to whip up this cute little bolero jacket from an 80s pattern. 

This Butterick 4969Butterick 4969 is from the late 80s by my best guess. I bought it for this jacket pattern; it's unlikely I will make a sundress. 

It was a fairly easy project -- front & back with collar & facings. I neatly finished the seams & facing edges since they are visible on the inside. 

The interesting foldback collar is a collar band connected to the facings & front pieces.

Then it was just on to hemming! The pattern suggests a blind hem & I did think it would look nicer with the clean edges of this little jacket. So I got out my blind hem foot & hemmed both the bottom & sleeve hems. I had to unpick the first bit as I made a bit of a mess until I got back into the rhythm of this foot.

I really like the look & the fit of this little piece. It goes well with my recent Burda dress & I am sure that other items in my wardrobe will match up too. That's pretty much the end of my big yellow sheet now! 

A 1986 Remake: Star Terrell's Two Minute Dress, resurrected

PatternReview ran a "Retro" contest for the month of May -- the challenge was to take inspiration from any style pre-2000 and recreate it for today. Not as costume, but as wearable modern outfit. **Update: voting is now open at Patternreview if you're a member & want to vote for me 😁

Well, I immediately thought of a project I've been considering for quite some time. My first pattern I ever bought was this McCalls 9309 (©1984) for my home ec. project in Grade 9. I still own it, and have been thinking about remaking it to current sizing standards ;) I finally got around to it. 

The lady on the right has my Grade 9 haircut ;) 
The one on the left has my current haircut! 

I had made it in the 80s in a soft t-shirt jersey in a mint & white tie dye. To modernize it, I chose a heavier blue and yellow print in my stash, which has a slightly sturdier hand than the original and a more current appearance; I'd pulled it out as part of my blue and yellow Spring sewing plans. I had just enough to cut out the dress and sash - I decided to cut two sash pieces and sew them together so that the unprinted back of my fabric isn't showing when I tie it. Fortunately I could squeeze that all on with a centre seam in the sash rather than cutting on a fold. 

The other major change I made to this dress was the sizing. I did make this originally when I was thirteen, after all! The pattern piece for the body is just one full piece, the same for front and back. It made it easier to pin the whole thing to my shoulder seams to see if the neckline and sleeve would still work in the size 10/12 pattern. Because this is so very 80s oversize, it did; but the waist/hipline was a different story. 80s fashion also liked to have loose tops and fitted bottoms, but I am the opposite shape to this trend. So I traced the main pattern piece as a half pattern to cut on the fold, and added 1.5" to the hip, then smoothed out a curved line to just above the waist marking. Yes, I had to add nearly 6" to the diameter of the hips! 

One neat element of this pattern is that you sew a hook to the inner sleeve along the upper seam, just about at the bicep level. Then you make a thread loop at the inner sleeve hem, so that if you want to change the look to have short sleeves you can just hook them up on the inside and voila. A different look!

Since I'd already made some biggish changes I also decided to pop in some pockets. I stole both the pocket and neckline finish from my Marcy Tilton 9329 -- the pockets are just one piece and stitched to the front of the dress, while the neckline facing is topstitched down 1" from the neckline. Both of these additions were really useful ones.

I think that the rejigging of this pattern worked well! And the trip down memory lane was a treat. I was sure I still had a photo of myself in the original, but all I could find was a group photo from my Grade 9 Grad. You can see most of the dress ;)

This was an enjoyable project that the PatternReview contest gave me the push to actually get done. You can probably pop on over to PR and vote for me in the next few days ;) In any case, I love the dress and feel that it modernized effectively.

Channelling the 80s inspiration with two of my fave albums from the mid-80s:
Jane Siberry & Howard Jones

Weekend Review: Creative Dressing by Kaori O'Connor

 

Creative Dressing / Kaori O'Connor
Boston, MA: Routledge & Kegan Paul, c1981.
192 p.

This is a book from 1981 that I found at a thrift shop - I don't think it would be published today, due to the items included being on the cultural appropriation spectrum. However, it is an interesting look at what was "designer" influenced in the late 70s, and does give some insight into more traditional items of clothing and the fact that many of them are zero or low waste by design. 

It's made up of about half sewing and half knitting patterns -- I'm only commenting on the sewing ones, as I have no knowledge of knitting so can't judge those ones other than by appearance. The sewing patterns include items like a basic mock-kimono, poncho top and skirt, Balinese trousers, Indochinese jacket, Ottoman Kusak Dressing Gown, Indian shirt dress, fabric shoulder bag, Singapore Pyjamas, Tartar Khalat Coat, Chinese jacket and side slit skirt and Translyvanian Peasant Shirt. 

These are all presented on graphs ready for scaling up - that tells you how straightforward most of the pattern pieces are. Alongside these are copies of 70s chic designer outfits like a sundress, t-shirt dress, or bodysuit (among others) as well as the insertion of a few nightgowns & historical outfits. This book covers it all. 

The styling of these are so 70s and mostly really out of date; the traditional designs are of course timeless but in lovely 70s fabric and photography so you really have to look past that to the style lines. There are a bunch of designs offered by a variety of other designers in addition to the traditional items I was most interested in. But, the sizing is TINY. I think the biggest waist size for skirts & trousers was 28" as far as I could tell. And most of the items are one size, for a bust between 34-38" if they are voluminous at the waist.

If you take this as a visit to the past, it can show you a lot. And the basic outlines of classic patterns were interesting to examine. I was particularly interested in the Peasant Shirt, as the basic shape is similar to a Ukrainian vyshyvanka, which I'd like to make for myself this year. However, other than as a 70s redux I'm not sure that this book is actually all that practical for modern sewists. Also, the wholesale use of designs across multiple cultures is a bit cringe-worthy these days.  Still, I found it weirdly compelling - all that 70s glamour... Rather eye dazzling. This is one to flip through for its retro interest, but not to truly recommend. 

Butterick 3777: Men's Shorts from 1986!

One of the things I wanted to make this year was some menswear. My husband was in need of a new pair of shorts, so I thought it was time to give these a go. His preferences for a more formal, higher waisted and narrow short don't exist in many stores. I picked up both this 1986 pattern and the nice bottom weight fabric while thrifting some time ago. They are a perfect match. 

The shorts are elastic waisted, with front fly & snap, slant front pockets & a back patch pocket. Pretty basic as far as something for a man goes! This was my first try fitting my husband, and also I've only made two pair of stretch pants for myself before, so this was a challenge for me. My husband liked View B, the longer short, but his fit preference is a little different from these slightly baggier 80s shorts. He has a narrow frame, and always finds modern shorts with their board short vibe too casual and oversized for his style. Fortunately, he still had one pair that he liked the fit of, so I used them along with his measurements to adjust this pattern. 

I narrowed the side seams by about 1/2" on front and back, tapering to the knee. I extended the shorts by 1.5" to give them the length he prefers. Fortunately the rise matched his favourite shorts so I didn't have to try any more difficult adjustments. And with the elastic waistband, I had more leeway to get a comfortable fit.

The fabric is very classic but I hadn't quite realized when I started how careful I'd need to be with the pattern matching! It's a regular print so wasn't terrible, but did take some study. Also, the front pieces are cut completely vertical, but the back piece is on a bit of a angle. This meant that I could only match up with a chevron at side seam and centre back. 

It also meant that with this print I had to cut the pockets on a slant that matched that of the back panels. While the actual piece was symmetrical and the tops were straight, the check was on a slant. Quite an optical illusion when I was pressing and prepping the pockets -- I had to check a few times to be sure I hadn't completely messed them up! But when they were pinned on they suddenly looked straight as they were supposed to. Whew! 

I learned new techniques and tried new things making these shorts, aside from the weirdness of fitting someone who is not me ;) I have never made a mock fly before, and this one was tough. The instructions & illustrations in the pattern itself weren't very helpful, so I turned to youtube and found a couple of videos that helped me to figure it out. And I also installed my first ever snap! That was not a snap. I had some difficulties figuring out how it was supposed to work, but youtube to the rescue once again, and now a nice brass snap lives on these shorts.

So while this is a fairly easy design, I was very pleased with the challenge of it, and the outcome too. They fit like my husband likes, I think they look great on him, and the pattern matching worked out too. I think I'll have to try new things a little more often.

Retro La Brea Tee in Knit

Earlier this year I posted about the La Brea Tee top that I made from a silk woven. At that time I mentioned that I had attempted the knit version but it hadn't worked out. 

Since I have a lot more time now, I went back to it and tried to fix it up to make it wearable. It isn't quite there, but will do nicely as a top to exercise in or just wear around the house. The attempt to attach knit binding to the knit neckline isn't salvageable for real wear, unfortunately. But the rest of it is okay! I think a second try would work out now that I have more of a feel for this. 

The binding around the tee is so cute and retro, I have to try again to get it right. The colour choice is a bit startling, but that is because I'd begun this top for the PatternReview contest in which we were challenged to make something inspired by childhood, and these are the exact colours of my elementary school.

I like this pattern in both woven and knit! I like the details - the bias trim, the fit, the band at the bottom of the knit version. I made it a little looser fitting and longer than the original pattern images indicate, because I don't like form fitting clothing. I think I got the overall shape to my liking, even that bottom band, which I don't often appreciate in a pattern! Just have to choose the right fabrics and get the hang of tidy binding and I might get a wearable version out of it. 

Even the back looks okay to me. This pattern is really nicely drafted for a simple shape, and has those extra little details that add more interest to a tee. The finishing is lovely, the potential for lots of variety is definitely there. There are some sewalongs and hacking tutorials for this pattern on the designer's website, Halfmoon Atelier. I recommend you check it out if this pattern appeals to you.

I hope to have another, more successful version of this to show you soon. Do you ever find that you go back to rescue projects you've given up on? Or do you just get rid of the project and/or the pattern wholesale and go on to another?

That 70s Thing: Butterick 5149

The Sewcialists held a sewing mini-challenge recently: Sew Your Birth Year! It was pretty lax, allowing you to take inspiration loosely from your birth year, or even someone else's if it was important to you, and interpreting it in any way you saw fit.

I was stuck with the 70s, and so did a little research into some inspiration, using blogs and catalogues to get some ideas of average wear in the early 70s. Here's what I settled on as inspiration.

My sudden interest in jumpers and pinafores this year is right on target with the early 70s. Hmmm! 

I sorted through my jumper patterns and found a button front version, Butterick 5149, that I thought would do the trick. And I looked through my fabric stash and found the perfect mustardy marigold cotton for a 70s inspired make. It was actually a sheet but just right for this. 

Because it is a heavier cotton, I knew I'd have to line it in order to wear it. Fortunately I had some cream bemberg left over in my stash, and since this pattern only required 1.5 m. I had enough. I also found some shiny contrast buttons in the stash and had enough of those too! So I forged ahead with this amusing challenge.

What do you think? Does the 70s influence come through? 

Despite this being quite a strong yellow, I had a number of things in my closet that matched with it. Along with the Liberty of London blouse that I thrifted (seen above), a classic black turtleneck goes well. 

My bright floral Drop Sleeve Top by the Avid Seamstress (a free pattern) has streaks of marigold in it so goes in another way. 

And my Egyptian Art Deco print Burda tee is, I think, my favourite combo so far. 

Looking at this photos I am planning on shortening it by another inch to make it a little less 70s and a little more chic. And I may take it in a pinch across the bust/high waist. 

I used my new favourite patch pocket technique (thanks Burda) and lined them and turned them before topstitching them on. And in my last jumper, the way I attached my lining as an afterthought under the bindings was so easy and attractive that I repeated that here. I just cut the lining as a second jumper and basted it to the cotton before sewing on the bias facing at neck and arm. I also basted it under the front facings before top stitching and then sewing on the buttons and making buttonholes. To complete it I turned up the hem, covering the lining and stitched it down over both layers. 

It is bright, cheery, and a bit retro. I had fun making this up out of my stash, and trying different outfit combos. While the Sewcialists mini-challenge was my inspiration for this make, I also found a fun challenge via the Sew and Tell podcast, Sew Your Roll. You could roll 3 numbers and get an 'assignment' from their lists. I rolled and received "Yellow / Neutral / Buttons" as my theme. Which also fit this project perfectly! Since I was just about to begin this project when I rolled I counted it as good fortune. 

 I prefer 80s fashion to 70s, but that's probably because of teenage nostalgia. Would you sew from your birth year? What would you make? 

Candy Coloured Night Dress

I saw this colourful and lightweight striped cotton at Fabricland and just couldn't resist it. I knew I had to make a summer nightgown out of it, and used one of the many vintage patterns I had laying around, Butterick 3559. I made view B, short with flutter sleeves.

The pattern calls for lace as the yoke and shoulder strap pieces but seeing as I didn't have any, and prefer no scratchiness, I just cut the pieces from the fabric as well. Originally I thought of doubling up those pieces so I could self-line the yoke to finish the edges, but in the end I just used a very lightweight vintage percale bias binding in a lovely shade of green to finish the neckline all the way around. That little splash of green makes me happy :)

It worked nicely and was a quick sew; the yoke was the only "difficult" part, compared to the gathered rectangular sewing in the rest. I love the floppy sleeve and the floatiness of this pattern (although it also runs quite large - I did have to narrow the yoke at front & back centre by 2"! -- which I only figured out after making it so I just folded out a central pleat for both).

I also added some teeny tiny buttons from my stash to the front edge to make it easier to keep track of which way around it should go. Finally a use for those tiny buttons!

I think that these two pieces of nightwear I've shared his week will last me for a while, and I will most likely not have to make any more for a few years -- but a robe might be the next necessary project... What should it be? A Suki? A Jalie Mélanie? Do you have a favourite robe pattern?