The Last of the Summer Roses: an 80s pattern

While I was taking a blog break, I did a bit of sewing. Not a huge amount, but I made a couple of summer dresses to add to my closet. The first one was this 1987 McCalls 3220, a pattern I thrifted a while back. 

The very trim dress is hiding on the pattern cover, you only see past the boxy dull jacket when you look at the line drawings. This kind of simple silhouette is one of my faves, especially the cut on drop sleeve, so I grabbed some rayon from the stash to try it out. I've had this fabric for a few years but heard that roses were in fashion again this summer so thought I'd better use it ;) 

This was quite an easy make. I had to make a few length adjustments, and I cut it at 14/16/18 like usual, which gives me most of the circumference adjustments that I need. The bodice and skirt are cut separately and an elastic casing added at the waistline. There is a back slit at the neckine but I find I can pull this over my head if I'm careful so may leave it off next time and just lower the neckline slightly. 

There are pockets, of course! This fabric is so soft and lovely to wear, and I really like the way it fits. It doesn't pull in any part of the dress, and yet covers the underarm area well so there is no bra flashing.

I like this length, and may just have to make this one again with more old rayon in the stash. It works well under a jacket as well, although a few wrinkles may appear at the shoulder. Even though I'm not as keen on florals as I used to be, the strong colours and larger print do it for me here. 

Anyhow, very pleased with this one. I really do love 80s patterns! And I finally got to take some pictures at a location I've been meaning to use for a while, the entrance to Upper Queen's park, near the theatre, where some old cast iron dogs were installed many, many years ago. They used to grace the entrance to a grand home belonging to a local doctor - you can find the story on the fascinating StreetsOfStratford.ca if you're interested in that kind of thing! 

Style 4037, Take Two

I first made a dress from Style 4037 in 2018. I wear it constantly - I think it's my favourite dress! It's comfortable, summery and I feel good in it. 

So when I was trying to think what to make with this precious fabric I won from Minerva in a contest, I decided to remake this dress. 

I love the print and it's uneven enough that I didn't have to worry too much about matching it up across the bodice seams or on the patch pockets. It's a flowy rayon, although this Minerva exclusive print is also available in other substrates (I'm eyeing some linen...). 

I always like a square neckline, and it suits this print well. I made this version longer than my first one, partly because longer skirts are in vogue currently, and partly because I love the flow of this fabric around my legs! 

There were not supposed to be any difficulties with this one; I made it the same as my last one, taking in a 1/2" at the front neckline and reducing the fullness of the back skirt by half. But it was a bit of a comedy of errors: the bodice was far too narrow, even though I thought I had cut it exactly the same as my last (perfectly fitting) dress from this pattern. I didn't want to waste my fabric so I inserted a 2" band in the centre back - due to the print it doesn't look like an insertion at all, thankfully! Then I stitched the bodice to the gathered skirt backwards, and since I didn't think patch pockets on my behind would be much use, I unpicked it and tried again! 

But I finally finished it and really love it. It took me a while to finish  - I cut it out and then stalled on it, due to my slowed down sewjo and also due to being distracted by clearing out my pattern stash (it had to be done!) And mistakes while sewing always make me put it aside for a bit, too. 

But the pattern is pretty easy if you don't make silly mistakes! I have been repeating patterns this summer as a way to get my sewjo going again. But after a couple of these easier projects, and a look through my entire pattern stash, I'm starting to feel like I want to sew more regularly again. I will still need to go through both my fabric stash and my current wardrobe to streamline those as well, and then I think I'll feel more on top of what to sew next. 

Do you ever feel stifled by just having too much and not knowing what to do next? I really want to be intentional about purchasing, making and wearing so that I don't get myself into these bouts of analysis paralysis! The good thing is that I absolutely love this fabric, and am so happy that I've made it up with a pattern I also know I love. 

Patch pockets on the front!

And Lacey Makes Three

To recover from my missing sewjo in June I decided to make a pattern I've made twice before, the Lacey Dress by Style Arc. This is a great pattern to use with stripes, and it's also a nice loose summer dress to wear on hot days.

I had some rayon that I bought at a PatternReview weekend in Chicago in 2016 so it was time to use it! I really like the print but I do find the colours a bit duller than I'd remembered; the pale blue with red gives a mauve-y feel to the dress as a whole. Not sure I completely love it - but it is comfy! 

Because I've made it twice before I just cut without worrying about any pattern alterations. I cut the central bodice pieces with the stripe horizontal, and the outer sleeve and skirt with vertical lines. But I was challenging myself to see if I could sew it all together in 3 hours like a Great British Sewing Bee challenge -- I just made it -- but just like with the timed challenges on the Bee, there are therefore mistakes. I think I will take the skirt off and resew it more neatly and evenly. You can't really see it in the photos (or probably in real life much) but the waist seam is uneven, it's higher in the front, and it's driving me nuts! The problem with rayon that likes to shift and stretch... 

I wore it to work this week on a very warm day and it was cool and airy to wear. I stopped to take photos in the rose garden in the churchyard that I cut through on my way to work; it matches with the dress nicely! It certainly was quick and stress free making a pattern that I was already familiar with, but I have to remember the maxim, Haste Makes Waste, and not try to compete with Sewing Bee timing ;) 

An Oxford Dress for the Literary Sewing Circle

It's time for me to share my project for this round of the Literary Sewing Circle! I considered many things, including patterns that I already owned and plan on making someday. But I couldn't get the Oxford Dress by Treize Cocquelicot out of my mind, after sharing it in our first inspiration post. So I went for it! 

I used some watery print rayon from my stash - I have had it for a long time so was pleased to use it. I only had 2.5 m however, so had to make the short sleeve version. I intend to make the puffed and cuffed longer sleeve another time! This view worked really well with the short sleeve, however, as the rayon challis is very soft and probably wouldn't hold the shape of the puffed sleeve anyhow. 

My alterations were very minimal. I added 1" to the skirt length, graded it from 42 at neck to 44 at waist, and added pockets. I didn't have enough fabric left for four pocket bags, so I pieced together the largest scraps I had and cut the pockets from those bits. The skirt is so full there was no need to worry about seams showing through. This is all I have left from my 2.5 m! 

I stitched the top of the pocket bags into the waist seam to anchor them and this seems to have worked well. I changed a few things in the construction as well - the bodice is lined, and you are supposed to sew the main piece to the skirt then hand stitch down the lining over that seam, for a beautiful clean finish. I just sewed it all together as one and zigzag finished the seam, pressing up to the bodice. There is a slit at the back neck so you can get this over your head, and instead of making a thread loop I sewed a little elastic loop into the opening edge. The pattern suggests this as well as a few more ideas for that area.

The only unusual things about this pattern come from the translation, mainly. The back button loop is called a "flange" but she means the button loop. Also, it's important to note that the sleeve notches are the reverse of English patterns; the front notch is a double notch, and the back one is single. I made a special note on the pattern pieces when I traced them so I would not forget this! 

Overall this was a quick and uncomplicated project. I really like the floatiness of the rayon and it's a cute basic summer dress. While I was sewing I was worrying that the bodice looked quite small but it isn't, it fit just right according to the size I cut corresponding to my measurements (which is generally 42/44 just like Burda). The pattern runs from 32-48 in European sizes so it is fairly limited, unfortunately, as it's a really lovely design. 

I enjoyed making this Oxford Dress from a print reminiscent of the river, or maybe Colonel Mering's fishpond! I hope you have all enjoyed reading and found a fun project to make as well. 

Fresco Blouse in Cobalt Blue

I put the Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot onto my MakeNine list in 2023 so it was time to finally make this pretty pattern! With the additional impetus of the #SewAprilBlouse24 challenge on Instagram, I got it finished just before the end of the April -- the evening of the 30th to be exact ;) 

I really like it -- I decided to use this cobalt rayon from my stash as it is very fl9uid. It was the perfect weight for this flowy pattern. This is quite an easy pattern, except for the fabric handling when you are using a slippery rayon challis. There is a front and back piece, a neckline tie, and a shoulder placket for buttons so you can get it over your head. It all went together very nicely; just remember to turn your necktie piece right side out before you sew it on...

It is a soft, roomy, and pretty top. I might shorten it a bit as I am pretty short and I'm not sure I like it ending at the widest part of my hip. However, I am going to try it tucked it with a couple of skirts and see if I like it that way. If not, I think I'll take another inch off the length. 

The shoulder button placket takes 2 small buttons, just enough to give you room to slip it over your head. The tie takes a little finagling to get right, as you want it to fall nicely. But it's a relatively quick make and certainly a comfortable wear. I like the 80s aesthetic of a lot of her designs and this one is easy and fun. Very pleased that I finally made a version of this! 

Two Tone Burda Top

I finally finished this project which I've been thinking about for ages, and cut out in February! For some reason it took me a while to finish this Burda 6354, even though the pattern is pretty simple to put together. The fabric I chose is lovely but also a bit shifty, so needed careful sewing. 

The colour choice is influenced by the colours of Ukraine; when I saw these two fabrics side by side at Fabricland, I immediately thought of a project like this. It's a fairly easy pattern -- there are match points for the gathers and corners, and you can use prints, or solid colours like this, to add some verve to the design. 

There are two views, one shorter with ruffled short sleeves and one with full length straight sleeves that is a bit longer. I used the longer length with the shorter sleeve. The only closure is a button at the back neckline slit, so it's not very complicated to put together. It took me a while only because I wasn't getting in much sewing time over the last couple of weeks, and because the fabric is so soft and slippery that I had to be careful with both pressing and stitching. 

In any case, it turned out like I'd imagined it, and I really like the fit. Not too oversize in the shoulder/bust but nice and swingy otherwise. I also like the sleeve design. A lovely project once I finished it! 

Wiksten Red Shift

I bought the Wiksten Shift pattern just before the Wiksten shop closed. I'd seen it around forever, and put off buying it, but was a total vicitim of FOMO and picked it up at the last minute. 

So I thought I had better make a version of it! I have had this red geometric print rayon in my stash for ages, and thought it might be a nice match. Not very many seams to worry about matching up here!

I made the knee length view with patch pockets. It's a pretty easy project, with a front and back, a neck facing that is stitched down, patch pockets and a sash. In rayon it took a bit longer because of the nature of the fabric; lots of wiggly bits to pin carefully. 

I like it -- the gathered back yoke is a nice feature which also adds a bit of extra width across the hips, so it fits me quite well in a 10/12 blend. I kind of wish I would have added an extra inch to the bottom to compensate for when the belt is tied and the dress is drawn up, but it's okay as is. 

It's very soft and comfy in rayon, and I had the perfect jewellry to go with it. I'm finding that I like red more lately, and so had to use this and get it out of my stash. 

A funny note; I was listening to an excellent audiobook, What You Can See From Here by Mariana Leky while sewing this dress, and now it feels like this dress is linked to a rural German village. Does that ever happen to you? Does the piece of music or the audiobook you're listening to 'stick' to your project?

Fancy Pants!

Yes, indeed, it's a rare day here at Following the Thread... I made some trousers! 

This is not something I do every day. In fact, I don't even do it every year. I so rarely wear pants that I don't focus much on making them and figuring out all the fiddly pants fitting. 

But Liesl & Co had the Cannes Trousers as part of their recent pattern release, and so I wanted to give them a try as part of the Advisor's Circle. They take almost 3 m. as drafted (although I knew I'd likely have to shorten them by a great deal) but magically, just the week I was thinking about making them, I found 3 m. of floral rayon at the thrift store. So off I went! 

You can see this project and the details over at the Liesl & Co blog now, but I'll also share a bit here. 

They were pretty straightforward in design and instructions; as usual, the instruction booklet has great illustrations and step by step explanations. Despite all that, I managed to put the fly zip in backwards even after holding the pieces up to me numerous times. Argh! But other than the fly going the wrong direction, it's otherwise perfect, it even has a nice fly shield.

The other major change I made to these pants was to shorten them significantly. I think I took 5" out of the length (I am barely 5'2") and have a 2" hem. That's pretty much what I'd expected. I'm not sure that pants this long and full suit my short figure that well, but maybe with a shorter and more fitted top the balance will be a little better. 

To check the crotch curve and rise, I took a well-fitting pair of linen pants that I've had for years (they've lasted because I probably wear them once a year) and laid the pattern against them. I found that I had to add about 1/2" to the back rise and a slight bit extra at the crotch extension to match but that the two were very close. I used this as my quick fit process and went ahead - the rayon only cost me $2.50 so I was treating this like my (hopefully) wearable muslin. 

As it turns out, it worked pretty well. I do find that these pants are still a little close to the body for my liking in the back, but still wearable. The pattern has lots of interesting details like the pockets and pleats, and I thought that it was easy to put together, other than my mirrored fly error. 

The rayon is very soft and feels great in these wide legs, especially when a breeze is blowing. I feel like these are very much 1930s beach pyjamas, and they're very Agatha Christie glam. Still not sure I'll wear them too often, but at least I now have a pair of summer trousers that actually fit me, so maybe pants will appear more often in my wardrobe. 

1986 Blouse in Upcycled Rayon

This Style pattern was one I had on my wishlist to make at the beginning of this year. It all came together to convince me to make it now, as there is a blouse making challenge on IG, as well as the return of The Refashioners, AND a challenge to sew with some Viva Magenta. 

This was a perfect fit for all of that. It's a pattern from 1986 that I thrifted a while back. The price on the back for Canada is $6.75, which I think would have been a pricey pattern back in the mid-80s. And for such a simple design! The cover images look like there are some big shoulder pads in there, which I would have expected of a pattern of this vintage; however, there are none called for in the pattern. 

I used a half-made dress that I was given a few years ago. The rayon print is beautiful, and there are swirls of magenta in that print! I had first taken the bodice off and made a simple elastic waist skirt from this fabric but found I wasn't wearing it much in that form. And the print is too lovely to waste. Thankfully I had kept the bodice in my scrap bin, so I unpicked the skirt from the elastic and used that to cut the main body of the blouse. It was slightly too short on the left side of the pattern that had the button extension at the shoulder, so I ended up piecing a bit onto that side to get enough length. This print hides those extra seamlines well. 

I used part of the bodice to cut the collar pieces, and scraps from the skirt for the two small facings. There is still a little of the bodice left so I will reuse that in future! I dug through my button stash and finally decided on some plain black buttons that have a little extra with a white streak that runs through them. They were also from a big batch of random buttons given to me a few years ago. 

The blouse is a little shorter than designed (about 1/2") just because I had to fit it onto my skirt pieces. But I think it works. The front is fractionally shorter than the back but there are slits in the side seams so that's not an issue either! I cut a 14 at the neck and shoulder, and 16 the rest; however, I also added about 1/2" in width to the side seam, starting at the waist point and grading out to the hip. This shirt is basically a rectangle, so if I hadn't added that extra, it would have been too tight around my hip. 

I love this silhouette and may try one of the other views someday. The buttoned up one definitely caught my eye first, though, and I enjoyed making this simple, purely rectangular top that is a great piece for under a jacket. The original dress that I recut this from had some thin shoulder pads already covered in this fabric, so if I can find where I put them when I deconstructed this dress originally, I think I will add them in to give it just that touch more of the cover look!