Burda D-Ring Pencil Skirt in Basic Black

My last project for the PatternReview mini wardrobe was this Burda skirt from 2019. It's a blend of pattern 109 & 110 from the November issue -- the length & back vent of 109 but the D-ring feature from 110. It was also my muslin for my intended fabric, a checkerboard canvas print, which I am planning to also make a matching jacket for because who doesn't want a checkerboard suit?

Anyhow, this first black version was made of some suiting that I thrifted a while ago, very nice quality. I cut a 44, but found that I needed to take the waist in by nearly 3" -- partly because I can't stand skirts that sit below the natural waistline. Size 44 fit very well everywhere else so just narrowing the waist was the main adjustment I made. I trimmed down the side seams by 1/2" on each side and took some width in on either side of the zip. For future, I adjusted the pattern so that the back width is reduced by increasing the dart intake, not trimming the zip edges! 

It's fully lined, and the Burda instructions have you attach the lining to the other edge of the folded waistband, flip it all inside and then topstitch the waistband seam from the front to finish. I hate that; it is so messy and frustrating! Next time I'm just going to use my favoured technique of basting the lining to the skirt at the top edge, then attaching the waistband. Much tidier in the end, at least for me. It just means you have to think ahead about finishing the lining edge at the zip, but that's pretty easy. 

But as a wearable muslin it worked out, and I love the cute little D-Ring accent in the front. Those are just tabs that you sew into the waistband but they give it a great look. Again, slant pockets, which I love. I really like the shape and fit of this pattern and think that with my adjustments it might be a go-to. 

Pirate Pencil Skirt, in Black but No Skull or Crossbones

As part of my "Summer Capsule" plans, I included a black knit pencil skirt as a basic bottom. I chose the Pirate Pencil Skirt by Patterns for Pirates, both because it's a closely fitted knit skirt, and because it's a free pattern! 

This one really is a quick and easy as everyone says it is. There is a front piece and back piece, both cut on the fold, and a waistband that is just a folded piece of knit, no elastic involved. I made the high waist option, my fave style. There's also a walking slit for the below the knee options but I left it out. My knit is stretchy enough not to worry about it. Also my legs are short ;)

I cut this out and sewed it up in one night. The hardest part was my fabric choice. I have a bunch of this textured knit that I thrifted a while ago, and my needle just didn't like it. I switched it out a couple of times, but it was never perfect. So there is a tiny bit of puckering on the side seams, but not enough to notice so I finally just left it. 

The only thing I don't like about it is that there are no pockets, of course, in such a fitted skirt. And that waistband is a little high on me, so that the top of it rolls out a bit. I think I will reduce the height by about 1/2" if I make it again so it fits my body a little better. One other small fix is the little bulge of fabric at centre back just below the waistband -- I will need to pinch out a wedge there next time, like a swayback adjustment, so it will lie flat against my spine. 

But it could also be that my knit is too lightweight -- it's not a ponte or a scuba -- so I could have used some knit interfacing on the whole waistband piece before stitching it down. Oh well, it's good enough, which is all I am going for here. It's proof of concept, really -- this pattern fits me, cut at an XL at the hip, and L at waist and hem. I think I may make it again in a better quality fabric. 

Worn with shirt untucked, a bit more
Comfortable to breathe in 😉

It's Agnes, for the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge

For this year's #BHMPatternDesigner challenge, I set myself the task of finally making a well-fitting pencil skirt. I always have problems with skirt fitting for some reason! I found the Agnes Pencil Skirt by Michelle Sews a while back, and decided that this was the time to give it a go - it has all the elements I want in a pencil skirt (pockets!) and I decided that learning to line a skirt, including the back vent, was something I needed to do this month. 

This pattern also spoke to me because it is named Agnes, which was my beloved Gran's name. So I wanted to make it with her in mind. Imagine my surprise when Michelle said that she'd named this pattern after her own grandmother! Extra special :) 

I can't deny it was a bit complicated when it came to that lining. The instructions for this skirt are thorough, and include photos, but I still needed to go to the Agnes sewalong on Michelle Sews' blog and watch the vent lining instruction video a couple of times. In the end, I got it done, not perfectly or fully cleanly but it's all on the inside and staying put so that's good enough for me. The next time I try this, I'm hoping my technique will improve ;) 

Other than that issue, I had no problems with this pattern. I had a great piece of cotton sateen with some stretch, in this fabulous leopard print, which I've been saving for a pencil skirt. It worked out perfectly. I really like this design, as it has so many nice details in it. She includes the option to pipe the edges of the slant pockets, so of course I had to do it. I had some satiny black piping left over from my Jalie Tania coatigan project in 2019, so added it to this project. I love it.

 

The back zip also includes a zip shield, which is very tidy and fancy -- and actually very easy, I think I might add one to many other patterns from now on. The zip stops at the bottom of the waistband and then a hook and eye or a button is added to the waistband. I happened to have a bronze-colour skirt hook and eye handy so used that, since it matches so well.

I think this went together very neatly and logically. As mentioned, I did have some trouble getting my head around how to attach the lining to the vent. So give yourself time to figure that out if needed. The sewalong video is helpful, and of course many sewing reference books on your shelf might also have instructions on this technique if you need more info. 

I always enjoy the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge; be sure to check out the Challenge page, and the hashtag to find out more, and see some of the fantastic outfits others are making up this month. You'll discover some wonderful new Black designers, shop owners and more. There are still a couple of days to take advantage of the discounts and deals many pattern shops are offering for Februrary. I'm happy to have found Michelle Sews and this great pattern to add to my stash. 

February Brings #BHMPD

 

I love the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge! It's such a great idea -- highlighting Black designers, pattern makers and sewing business owners in a fun and relaxed challenge. 

This year, #BHMPD is being hosted by @SewNaturalDane and @Island Sewcialist It happens mostly over on Instagram, and they've been sharing all sorts of suggestions for companies and designers to follow. The challenge is really just to make something by a Black pattern designer during February and share it with the hashtags, tagging the hosts too. They even have pattern discount codes and sponsor prizes, too. So be sure to check it out. 

I've participated the last two years, with patterns from my stash. In 2020 I made Simplicity 2230, a Khaliah Ali blouse pattern. And in 2019 I made McCalls 7251, a Tracy Reese "Plenty" blouse design. 

This year I'm planning on making something new to me, the Agnes Pencil Skirt by Michelle Sews. I love a good pencil skirt and have been looking for one with pockets for ages. This skirt looks like exactly what I've been searching for.

There is also a nice set of sewalong posts on Michelle's blog, which should also be helpful! I'm planning on making it in this heavy cotton sateen with a touch of stretch which has been in my stash for a long time. 

If I finish and have enough time I might make a top to go with it, probably one from my numerous Khaliah Ali Simplicity patterns. 

I'd use black, not this print, to make a complementary top

I recommend taking a look at this challenge and all the great resources shared around it. Lots to explore and learn!