Weekend Review: Make It, Own It, Love It

Make It, Own It, Love It / Matt Chapple
London: Jacqui Small, c2016.
176 p.

There are a lot of books by former GBSB contestants, and with the new season coming up, I thought I'd read one that I haven't before! This is by the winner of Season 3, Matt Chapple. It is aimed at beginners and is quite light and approachable. 

The title covers everything in this book -- he talks about upcycling and refashioning first, to dip your toe in to the sewing world. Then he moves on to simple projects which are either self-drafted (scarves and tees, nothing complicated) or are downloadable free patterns, so no big cost investment for those just trying it out. He also covers repairs and wardrobe maintenance, even talking about laundry labels and care. I find this approach focuses on affordability and sustainability, and it's fun and encouraging at the same time. 

The book is laid out in seven sections, and includes many photos which are light and bright and cheerful. Many of them are 'lifestyle' type of photos, not all just illustrating the projects or instructions. The projects have a lot of text instruction, not heavily illustrated, but they are all pretty simple. 

The book covers: 

• Tools
• Fabrics
• Stitching
• Make It Your Own (refashioning/altering)
• Make It From Scratch
• Make It Wearable (mending - very basic needs, like re-sewing on buttons, fixing hems, pocket holes, seams etc.)
• Make It Live Longer (maintenance, including shoes)

It's also a little different because it talks about sewing/altering men's clothing as well as women's, which isn't always the case with sewing books! And even in the sections on notions and tools, he is careful to note that you don't need everything at the start, some things are just "cool kit" in your tool kit, not essential. The tone of the book is encouraging and welcoming, emphasizing that starting out doesn't require a huge investment of time or money. I'd say it's a pretty good volume and worth checking out. 

 

Weekend Review: Sewing for the Soul

Sewing for the Soul / Jules Fallon
Tunbridge Wells, UK: Search Press, c2021.
128 p.

This is a lovely book; it's a sewing book but also a lifestyle book. It has a specific aesthetic, and includes interior design imagery and recipes too! 

It's organized around the seasons, with each section including two or three sewing projects, then a relevant recipe. Lots of lovely photos of projects and of the general domestic mood of the book. Most of the projects are garments but there are a few craft projects including like a stocking for Winter, or a patchwork blanket for autumn. There are also a couple of ideas that incorporate embroidery or upcycling -- my favourite is the embroided woven tee in Spring, which has a border of red flowers added to the rounded neckline. Very pretty. 

The clothes -- shirt dress, woven tee, winter coat, drawstring trousers, palazzos, just to name a few, are all fairly relaxed fit, loungey kind of clothing. Easier to fit but because it's also in line with the tone of the whole book - it's about relaxing, taking things easy while still having them beautiful. I haven't seen a sewing book like this before. It's the whole lifestyle, food included. And it's full of beautiful imagery while also having practical sewing illustrations and guidelines, and a list of sewing tools and materials to begin the book. There are 10 patterns included, up to a UK size 26/US size 22.

The author is the owner of Sew Me Something, and her experience in the sewing world shows. This is well put together, nicely thought out, and pleasant to read. She has captured the atmosphere of  "sewing for the spirit" that she used as the title -- it's enjoyable to look through but also has some nice basic pieces in it. If you read it online (as I did through my library) you can also go to the publisher's page and create a free account to get the extra materials (ie: templates & patterns). This is charming and I found it a gentle nighttime read. 

 

Weekend Review: StyleHacking

 

StyleHacking / Karoline Dahrling Hughes
Concord, CA: Stash Books,c2021.
128 p.

This book is a quick and dirty look at creating a 5 piece wardrobe of pattern templates that can then be hacked with various details to give you some variety. It's one of those books that is heavily DIY -- ie: sewing patterns are complicated and boring, there isn't a 'right way' to do anything, just do what you like! 

The book proposes five basic garments - a tee/tank, pants, skirt, dress and jacket, all of which you get a pattern for by "cloning" (tracing off garments that you already have in your wardrobe). Then there are a variety of sewing options to put them together in different configurations. Since there are no real rules, it's a bit of a choose-your-own-adventure way of learning. Four of the five projects are knits (easier fitting I guess) and the last can be made in woven. 

I loved the idea of this, and do like that the photos are bright and use colour. They are fun and encouraging for a certain kind of new sewist who likes to learn by experimenting. I think this one might appeal more to younger sewists who don't mind the DIY feel. 

For me, it feels a bit messy with the pattern clashing and boxy unfitted styles. There are some good ideas, though, that someone might use to create things more in their own style. This might be a different way to look at things for newer sewists who are afraid to deviate from a pattern, even with the simple ideas of adding a gathered  skirt to a favourite top pattern to make a dress. 

I'm not sure this one is for me, as I'm not a loosey-goosey sewist, I like to use patterns and fit things well. But I can see there being an audience for this book, and it's fearless approach to being just good enough and using what you have. Worth taking a look at if you can find it in your library as I did. 

Weekend Review: Zero Waste Patterns

 

Zero Waste Patterns / Birgitta Helmerson
London: Quadrille, c2023.
192 p.

I've been looking forward to this new Zero Waste book by Birgitta Helmersson, and was happy to find it in my library. I enjoyed looking through it, and reading her background to how and why she got to the Zero Waste pattern making stage. I also enjoyed the layout; logical structure and lots of nice large photographs of various models wearing the projects. 

The subtitle of the book is "20 Projects to Sew Your Own Wardrobe". There are 20 projects by virtue of variations on 5 basic blocks - Tee, Trouser, Singlet, Skirt and Shirt. They are all in the traditional zero waste aesthetic - natural fibres, no prints, very loosely fitting with not many shaping options in them. And elastic waist skirts and trousers. If you like this aesthetic or can see past the oatmeal/beige colours, I think this will be a great book for you! 

The instructions are well laid out, with cutting diagrams all fairly large and clear, including coloured notations for folds, slits or other special things to note. There are a handful of actual patterns for facings, pockets etc but these are so minimal that they are all printed inside the front and back covers (double fold covers) to trace off. She also explains the sizing of each pattern and the limitations when using the width of fabric as the base for a pattern (sizes are UK 6-30/US 2-26). There are suggestions given to enlarge a pattern when needed, by adding side panels or other ideas. But the fitting is pretty loose on most of these items also.

Unfortunately for me personally, I'm not really a fan of this kind of really oversize, boxy clothing. There is one variation on the shirt block that was interesting to me, as it has longer gathered sleeves and a bit more interest in detail. But I don't think I'm that likely to try any of these out very soon. I appreciate this book, though, and can see how the right reader will find this very helpful, as it not only has pattern charts but quite a lot of information on the zero waste approach. And it's pretty! 

I was glad to have the chance to read this through my library, and appreciate the availability of this kind of sewing book. 

Weekend Review: Sewing The New Classics

Sewing the New Classics: Clothes With Easy Style / Carol Parks
NY: Sterling, c1995.
152 p.

 

Since I was thinking so much about capsule wardrobes this month, I checked out this 1995 tome from Open Library to see how it had aged. Surprisingly well, actually! It's old school; there are 10 patterns for "wardrobe essentials" included, in the way that it was done in the 90s -- sketched out on a grid for you to enlarge by hand yourself. You'll find these items: a traditional shirt, a collarless tunic, a T-shirt, a straight skirt, a full skirt, elastic-waist pants, tailored pants, a jacket, a fitted waistcoat, and a big vest or jacket.

I remember wearing some of these styles in the past, but many of them could be very easily translated to contemporary styling depending on the choice of size and fabric. The 90s aesthetic is still current in its use of more casual and boxy wear. You might have to change up some of the styling choices, ie: the excessive layering, or accent choices, but I think a lot of this book is still really useful. And the colour choices here are often natural tones, and a lot of linen, which I think is very similar to a lot of current styling. 

I found the shirt and tunic, and the waistcoat, all intriguing for me right now. I think if I would have been sewing like I do now back in 1995 when this book was new it would be have been ideal to stitching up a very handy capsule wardrobe. Of course, now that we're used to pdfs or traceable pattern sheets, the idea of enlarging a pattern manually via graph paper feels VERY old school! But it's still possible. Of course with this kind of book and the pattern options, the sizing is quite limited. 

There is some good info on planning out a coordinated wardrobe, and tips on working with these patterns, as well as some sewing techniques. There is also a chapter on embellishments to change up these simple silhouettes -- things like adding tabs, insertions, embroidery or decorative painting/stenciling. I found it quite entertaining.

There are tons of great photos, and it's actually a really fun book especially if you like late 80s/early 90s style. It's a collection of loose fitting, coordinating patterns that will make up a capsule wardrobe of sorts, easily adaptable and able to be personalized. Enjoyable to look through for the retro feel but patterns are also still relevant if you like the boxy casual style.

Weekend Review: Building the Pattern

Building the Pattern / Laura Huhta & Saara Huhta
London: Quadrille, c2021.
208 p.

I read the first book by this sisterly duo when it came out some years ago, and enjoyed it, and copied out some patterns. And so I've been meaning to check this one out for a while now! I got a copy through my library, and have enjoyed going through it. 

It's a book full of projects. There are 6 patterns plus one extra purse pattern. But 5 of these 6 patterns have 3 distinct items included - the 6th, the jacket, has two variations. So there are quite a number of pieces you could make here. There are traceable patterns included in the book, no downloading required. Each chapter (one per pattern) includes some nice clear fashion photos, a materials and size guide, cutting guide and layplans, general sewing instructions and specialized instructions for any pattern hacking needed. There's not much fluff or filler here; it's all about the patterns. And the photos are lovely, on a range of (young) people. 

The sizing isn't hugely expansive; the patterns are in house sizes 1-9, which translates to European 34-50. I generally make a 42/44 in Burda; that range places me in the 5/6 in this book, which according to the measurement chart is spot on. So the sizing is true to standard. The actual body measurements, then, range from Bust 31.5-40 5/8, Waist 25 1/4 - 39 3/8, Hip 34 5/8 - 48 3/4. 

I liked the way they show that changing a basic pattern is doable, and that small changes -- length, sleeve, neckline, can make a big visual difference. They also give guidance for bigger changes that might seem insurmountable on first glance, for a beginner, but by following not too many steps, you have a whole new look. I like the concept, and think that following the guidelines here would give a sewist confidence to mix up some of the other patterns in your stash. Changing a shirt to a dress or pants to shorts or even a relaxed blazer to a bomber jacket are all in the mix here. 

If the sizing works for you, and you want to try hacking some patterns with guidance along the way, this is a good choice. The styles are fashionable but not too trendy, and there are nice details to make them a little more special than simple boxy shapes, which I find a lot of these kind of books rely on. There are fitted styles, and both woven and knit options to try out. I found it intriguing, and am planning on tracing out 3 of the patterns when I get a second! 

 

Weekend Review: Sewing Your Perfect Capsule Wardrobe

 

Sewing Your Perfect Capsule Wardrobe /
Arianna Cadwallader & Cathy McKinnon
London: Kyle Books, c2017.
175 p.

I recently got this book from my library; it's one I've seen mentioned here and there, and thought it would be interesting to see the advice about a capsule wardrobe given here. Well, I'm glad I got it from the library, because overall I found it a bit underwhelming. 

The book is organized into a structure around 5 core garments: The Vest Top (a tank top in North American speak), Basic Skirt, Shift Dress, Trousers, and Blouse. These are all fairly basic silhouettes -- the book is aimed at the advanced beginner, which I think is about the right level for these designs. There are fold-out pattern sheets included in the book, so you can trace and alter right away. Each basic piece has a straightforward main pattern, then tells you how to alter and redesign the piece to create something different, sometimes just a hair of difference but others are quite changed. You go from a below-knee pencil skirt to a short a-line, for example. There are also discussions of style changes you can make -- changing a neckline/collar, sleeve style, adding embellishment, etc. to really take these patterns and expand them in your wardrobe. 

I obviously like this idea a lot. However, this book as the main source of this kind of capsule wardrobe seems limited to me. The sizing is miniscule -- there is a range of 6 sizes with a 10" difference between them. Bust 32-42, Waist 24-34, Hip 33-43. It's a small range, and I fall near the top. So the actual patterns in this book will only be useful for a small proportion of sewists. And the patterns are also pretty standard, so any sewist who has been at it long enough will most likely already own similar pattern styles already -- some could even be equated to a few of the more well-known free patterns out there. 

The ideas for changing a base pattern into new styles are pretty handy here, though. They start with the "main" pattern and give a "sister" style then some other ideas for additional changes. You could take those ideas and apply them to the patterns you prefer to use. That might be the takeaway here. 

There isn't really a discussion about putting together a capsule wardrobe in the more traditional sense - they don't talk fashion, per se. To me, the book is more about creating a Capsule Pattern Collection. And that can be a good way to focus your sewing in light of the incentive to buy so many new and exciting patterns out there! 

So my view on this book is: good idea, some interesting ideas and instruction, but a fail when it comes to providing actual patterns that are useful for more than a sliver of readers.