ITS Palermo: first Make Nine project!

One of the patterns on my 2024 #MakeNine list is the Palermo peasant top, from the Itch to Stitch book Sew Beautiful. When I mentioned last year that I was looking for patterns in this style so I could make my own Vyshyvanka, someone on IG recommended the Palermo. It's definitely in the running! 

I used a small piece of remnant fabric from my stash - it's a suiting fabric but fairly light and not stiff, so I decided to use it. I liked the idea of mixing a peasant blouse with suiting fabric! I had just enough. I cut a size 8 at the neck & shoulders, grading to a 12 at the hip. It's more closely fitted than I was expecting, even though I double checked the sizing, and did choose the right sizes according to my body measurements. I might make it one size up next time, although I like the neckline at size 8. 

It was actually a very quick project! Front, back, sleeve and neckline bias casing. The front has a seam up the middle which is pressed flat and topstitched. Fortunately the stripes worked out for me! The neckline casing is sewn on, elastic inserted and there is also elastic at the sleeve cuffs, though it's a nice gentle gather, not a tight ruffle. I like that as well. 

I added one inch to the length when I cut it out, but didn't alter the sleeve at all, except for making a slightly larger hem for my elastic. I don't think I would want the sleeve or the body any shorter, for me. 

I do like it and think the closer fit works with this fabric. But not 100% convinced that this is the right Vyshyvanka base, so will continue trying out a few more options before committing to embroidery. 

New Look 6519: a rare muslin

I bought a bunch of new patterns earlier this year as part of my win from the PR Match Your Shoes contest. I really wanted to use them all right away! I decided to start with what looked like the easiest one, New Look 6519. 

I don't know what it was about this very easy pattern that made me think twice, but I decided to make a muslin of it first to check the fit -- perhaps because straight fit dresses often don't fit me quite right. So I used a batch of narrow striped cotton that a friend had given me, a fabric I wasn't too likely to use because it reminded me of mattresses or prison outfits. And lo and behold, this dress does indeed look like a prison uniform in this fabric ;) Good thing it's only a test.

I first altered the pattern in length, folding out some length both between the shoulder and bust and above the waist. I then lengthened the hem by about 4" as it would have been very short on me -- a short person to begin with! The dress view is more of a tunic length than a dress length, in my opinion.

I then cut it as I thought I'd need to, starting at 14 at the shoulders and grading out to close to 20 at the hips. But when I tried it on, I found it still pulled across the backside. Because of the way the ties pull the sides of the dress to the front, the extra width at the sides found by grading didn't really help that much.

I returned to the pattern, and cut and altered it for a full derriere. This is what the pattern looked like by the time I was done.

Thankfully I had more of the fabric, and since I'd just basted the dress together, I pulled it apart again and recut a new back. When I sewed it back up again, it fit! I was so pleased that this worked. However, I was a little put off by the whole thing and still haven't made it in a real fabric.

There are a few problems with this pattern for me, aside from all the adjustments. I wonder if it wouldn't look better on a taller, more evenly shaped figure. Perhaps in a lighter, drapier real fabric it will look a little nicer. In that case, though, I would also alter the waist ties. They are double layer, and tucked up right under the bust (at least on me after my bodice shortening) They end up being quite heavy, and pulling on the dress. If I do make it as an actual wearable dress, I'll be narrowing the tie width by at least an inch, and may change them to one layer if the fabric is suitable, and use a rolled hem for tidiness.

Do you ever find that you have trouble with "easy" patterns? What kind of instinct do you have to tell you to test something out when that's not your usual habit? And do you generally continue on when you have to make so many alterations? I don't usually, but was pleased that I got this to fit, even if I'm not sure I really like the style in the end.