Leopard Print Burda

As I've mentioned before, I am currently taking the Burda Teacher Certification Course. It's been pretty fun and I feel like I'm learning some new tips and tightening up some of my techniques. As part of the class there are four projects to be graded; the latest one is Burda #128 05/2011, a vintage style dress that isn't something that would have caught my eye normally. 

Part of the reason I wouldn't have made this for myself outside of this class is the poofy gathered back. I guess in a lightweight voile or rayon it might look nicer, but I used a cotton sateen from my stash. I hoped it would be lightweight enough for the style, but the back did poof out far more than I liked. 

Since it was an assignment, I made it strictly by the pattern directions, only changing things for sizing purposes (ie: grading from 42 at shoulder/bust and 44 for waist/hip like I usually do with Burda). There were a few issues -- I only had a 14" invisible zip in my stash, not a 16" as called for, so a bit of wiggling is required to get it over my hips. But the zip was a vintage one and an absolute match so I went with it. 

Also, when the main dress was done, prior to attaching the collar, I tried it on since I felt like the neckline was enormously wide. I was right. Thank goodness for the raglan sleeve -- I took a 1/2" wedge out of each sleeve seam, and another 3/4" wedge out of the centre back seam. Then it seemed to fit around the shoulders nicely. I adjusted the collar pieces accordingly, and then attached it. 

After I took the photos of the dress for class purposes, I attacked it once again to make it wearable for my tastes. This meant removing the giant poof in the back. I unpicked the back waist seam and measured to see how much I'd need to remove; it was nearly 6.5"! So I took a wedge from the centre back seam, 2" on either side of it tapering up to nothing at the top of the seam. Then I pinched out two darts which were each just a smidge over 1" each. I basted these all down & then basted the waist seam too, and tried it on.

I found that the width was okay but I also had to take out some of the length -- good thing it had all been basted! I tore out the waist seam again and pinned a wedge of nearly 1.5" in the centre of the bodice tapering to nothing at the side seams, kind of like a bit of a swayback adjustment. When I basted that and tried it on it seemed just right. So happy! I like the flat back a lot better. 

This dress was made from all stash -- fabric and zip. I was delighted to be able to finally use this firey fabric and also that I had perfect matching burgundy scraps in my stash for the collar, and a pale orangey vintage zip too. I actually like the shape of it and was able to get the fitting right after all that fudging :) 

This has a definite vintage vibe, and I think I kind of like it. I may just finesse that back a bit more and make sure any remaining bulk is completely smoothed out. But I do think it's perfectly wearable now. I enjoyed the challenge of making something I wouldn't normally choose, and making it strictly by pattern directions -- at least in the beginning ;) I have one more pattern to make in this course and then it will be complete!

Even took pictures in this light dress with snow on the ground,
 just for you ;)

Leopard Print Emery Dress

I made my first Emery Dress in late summer last year, but didn't review it here since I was waiting until I'd made another with the appropriate adjustments to compare them. But right now, my queue is so long I'm not sure when I'll get to my second version -- so here is the first.

This first Emery was intended as my muslin, and I made it from an old sheet in my stash -- a twin sheet with just enough to it to cut this out effectively, avoiding the one or two snags in the source material.

I made quite a few adjustments to the bodice, having heard that it fits some people well, and needs a lot of adjusting for others. I was one of the 'others'. In this picture, you can see the main fitting issue I need to fix.

I did my usual alterations -- shortening the bodice, taking an inch wedge out of centre front and increasing the back shoulder darts by 1/4" each. I thought I had it pretty close, but once I finished it and wore for a bit I realized I need to take the bodice up at least another inch. I'm still not sure if that inch needs to come off the waist or whether it should be taken up in the length between the shoulder and bust. I'm leaning toward dividing it between those two areas at the moment.

Nonetheless, my invisible zip went in just fine!

Other than the fitting issues, this was a fairly straightforward pattern that many people have made. There are cutesy additions like a bow belt or a peter pan collar but for myself I am preferring the plain look right now.

Eventually I plan to try again with the added adjustments, but I do have New Look 6262 in my stash which is quite similar in style and it fits me well, so not sure the Emery will become my go to for this style. I'll have to compare and see what I think!