Burda Pocket Jumper from 2012

It's been a week for jumpers around here! I'd been looking for this particular style for a while; I bought a jumper with front in-seam pockets at the thrift store a few years ago and really liked the detail. So when I found this Burda pattern, 105-09-2012 on the Burdastyle.de website, I bought it. Good thing it's such a simple design that I didn't need instructions, because they are all in German ;) 

I used the pocket insertion technique from the Closet Core Cielo dress, which I made this summer. Same idea. And I decided to line this project fully, again, but this time I stitched the lining right to the neckline, and then understitched & topstitched. That should keep it from creeping! I basted the lining to the arm openings once the neckline was done, and then finished them with black bias tape facings. I think it's nice and neat -- because this jumper is such thin fabric I thought this technique would work, where it might not do so well on something like my previous jumper, which is heavy corduroy. 

The fabric is a recent buy. Fabricville was having a 3-for-1 sale, and I saw this lovely print in stretch bengaline, so gave it a try and ordered it. I haven't sewn with stretch bengaline before, and discovered that it has quite a lot of stretch lengthwise but not any at all across the grain. So the print ends up going the opposite way than you might think, in order to have the stretch going around your body. Fortunately this print can manage it. 

When I got the fabric I wasn't sure what to do with it, since I rarely make pants and that was what most of the examples were, using stretch bengaline, when I searched for ideas online. But then I remembered this pattern, which calls for a stable jersey, and thought that this stretch woven would be just the thing. It worked beautifully, and I love the final result. I love the neckline, the fit and the cute little pockets. 

The only alterations I made were to shorten the bodice by 1/2" between the bust and waist. And I'd raise that lower section seam by an inch if I made this again, to raise the pockets a bit, but otherwise this one is a real winner for me. I didn't have to shorten the skirt length, as this is a "Mini Dress" according to Burda but fits around knee length, just how I like it, for little 5'2" me ;) 

I really like the effect of the print, and the comfort in this piece! Definitely one to try again someday. 

Vintage Blues in Jumper Form

I did it again -- made another jumper! I'm getting addicted to these :) This time I used a 90s pattern, Simplicity 8788 and matched it up with a bright blue, wide wale corduroy that I picked up at the thrift store way back before lockdowns were a thing. It was one of my more delightful finds. 

I wasn't sure what to do with this corduroy, but finally clicked with the simple square-necked version (View C) of this pattern. I liked the straight lines, the square neck and the single pocket that crosses the side seam. I could have moved that pocket up an inch but I think it still works. I lined the pocket and fully lined the jumper as well. Corduroy isn't wearable without a lining, it sticks to itself and to any tights I attempt to wear. All my cord skirts and jumpers are lined. 

Fortunately I had a nice oyster-tone lining in my stash that went beautifully. And I also used the small leftovers from my recent "Europeon" blouse to cut the facings, since the colour tones matched perfectly. As I've mentioned before, I like a facing over a lining in a case like this because I find the lining always peeks out no matter what. With this project, I am almost as enamoured of the lovely insides as I am of the outside. 

This was a fairly simple project, aside from the care I had to take with the cord itself. I lightly steamed it, without pressure, to get some of the creases out, and found that it was easy to work with (except for having to use my little tabletop vacuum every time I cut a piece out to remove all the fluff). It doesn't have many seams so it went together beautifully, and as I mentioned, that inside finish is lovely! I just cut the same pieces in lining, 1/2" shorter, then hand basted it around the neckline and arm openings, and attached the facings on top. 

The only big change I made was in construction order. They had you sewing up the jumper and then attaching the pocket to the side seam. Nuts to that -- I sewed up the right side seam, attached the pocket while it was flat, then finished up the other side seam and shoulder seams. MUCH easier to handle. 

The only tricky part was getting the hem to sit flat and settle; it's a bit bulky with that fold of corduroy. I just catch-stitched it to the lining on the inside and it works for now but I may have to go back and firm it up a little. 

Anyhow, I was happily able to finish this off on the weekend and wear it right away. I am really pleased that this pattern worked so well with this beautiful, larger wale corduroy. It fits nicely and wears well too. All one can ask for! 

Bianca in Fall

This is Part One of my current Fabricville Blogger Project; I chose to make the Jalie Bianca (a pattern I've been eyeing for a while now) in a rich Eggplant Feather Wale Corduroy, thinking that it would work nicely as a fall dress and also as a jumper!

The fabric is soft and malleable -- but as it's corduroy there is really no drape so I chose to make the straight shift view without sleeve bands. It's perfect as a straight jumper style dress, with no closures to worry about, and the best patch pockets! Huge and attached into the side seams as well as being topstitched. 

This pattern has no closures, but both front and back are cut in two, with a centre seam. If my corduroy had a bigger wale so that the stripes were more noticeable, I might have cut the two front pieces on alternating grainlines so that one was vertical and one horizontal. I think the play of light and texture on the two would be interesting! But since this fabric is very fine, I just went with one direction for the whole dress, the nap facing down. 

This is a great pattern, as expected from Jalie. Because I was making it in a non-suggested fabric, I did make a couple of changes, however. The original pattern has a back neck facing and a front bias facing. The facings are attached prior to sewing the shoulder seams. 

But, since I wanted to fully line this dress/jumper, I chose to use bias facing all around the neck so that I could sew the shoulder seams of both dress and lining and baste together at the neckline before attaching the bias facing. I could have just sewn the lining in as the finish, but I prefer lining to sit under a facing at the neckline, because I feel like otherwise a bit of the lining always rolls out no matter how carefully I understitch it. That's just me; you could definitely finish the neckline with the lining if you're less worried about that than I am! 

I also finished the sleeve edges by basting the lining and dress together and attaching the bias arm facings as well. It's a nice tidy finish, and fortunately I had a lovely winey-purple bemberg lining left over in my stash that worked perfectly. I decided to stitch the lining down into the hem like I have for the last two jumpers I've made, because that holds it all together neatly and there's no twisting around with the heavier fabric and tights when the two layers are firmly attached. 

When I finish Part Two of this project, it will add to possibilities of this Bianca!

That 70s Thing: Butterick 5149

The Sewcialists held a sewing mini-challenge recently: Sew Your Birth Year! It was pretty lax, allowing you to take inspiration loosely from your birth year, or even someone else's if it was important to you, and interpreting it in any way you saw fit.

I was stuck with the 70s, and so did a little research into some inspiration, using blogs and catalogues to get some ideas of average wear in the early 70s. Here's what I settled on as inspiration.

My sudden interest in jumpers and pinafores this year is right on target with the early 70s. Hmmm! 

I sorted through my jumper patterns and found a button front version, Butterick 5149, that I thought would do the trick. And I looked through my fabric stash and found the perfect mustardy marigold cotton for a 70s inspired make. It was actually a sheet but just right for this. 

Because it is a heavier cotton, I knew I'd have to line it in order to wear it. Fortunately I had some cream bemberg left over in my stash, and since this pattern only required 1.5 m. I had enough. I also found some shiny contrast buttons in the stash and had enough of those too! So I forged ahead with this amusing challenge.

What do you think? Does the 70s influence come through? 

Despite this being quite a strong yellow, I had a number of things in my closet that matched with it. Along with the Liberty of London blouse that I thrifted (seen above), a classic black turtleneck goes well. 

My bright floral Drop Sleeve Top by the Avid Seamstress (a free pattern) has streaks of marigold in it so goes in another way. 

And my Egyptian Art Deco print Burda tee is, I think, my favourite combo so far. 

Looking at this photos I am planning on shortening it by another inch to make it a little less 70s and a little more chic. And I may take it in a pinch across the bust/high waist. 

I used my new favourite patch pocket technique (thanks Burda) and lined them and turned them before topstitching them on. And in my last jumper, the way I attached my lining as an afterthought under the bindings was so easy and attractive that I repeated that here. I just cut the lining as a second jumper and basted it to the cotton before sewing on the bias facing at neck and arm. I also basted it under the front facings before top stitching and then sewing on the buttons and making buttonholes. To complete it I turned up the hem, covering the lining and stitched it down over both layers. 

It is bright, cheery, and a bit retro. I had fun making this up out of my stash, and trying different outfit combos. While the Sewcialists mini-challenge was my inspiration for this make, I also found a fun challenge via the Sew and Tell podcast, Sew Your Roll. You could roll 3 numbers and get an 'assignment' from their lists. I rolled and received "Yellow / Neutral / Buttons" as my theme. Which also fit this project perfectly! Since I was just about to begin this project when I rolled I counted it as good fortune. 

 I prefer 80s fashion to 70s, but that's probably because of teenage nostalgia. Would you sew from your birth year? What would you make? 

Butterick 5626 Basic Black Jumper

I am really into jumpers lately, which is funny since I never used to like them. But suddenly I just want to make all the jumpers! I think it was finding my old Vogue 8132 pattern that started me off.

So I went through my stash and found handful of six or seven other patterns, all older ones, that I could choose from to make another version. I had a particular piece of black stretch suiting in my stash -- it's about a denim weight and slightly stretchy -- I picked it up in Kalamazoo on my way to the Chicago PR Weekend in 2016 so I've had it for a while. It was perfect for this project!

I picked Butterick 5626, a basic jumper with a straight skirt and patch pockets. I had just enough fabric to fit View E onto; thank goodness I am short.

I didn't make many alterations -- I didn't even shorten it above the bust as I usually do. I didn't shorten at the hem either, since it would end up right at my kneecaps as designed, and that's where I like the length. Taller people will end up with a shorter, more 60s effect jumper.

After I cut it out I basted and tried on, and ended up taking 1/2" in at each underarm, grading to nothing by the side notches. I also took in 1/2" at the back centre seam as there was some gaping, although the front was fine -- strangely for me! To get the hang right I also took a 1/4" wedge at the outer shoulder and angled it down to nothing by the inner neckline edge. All these seemingly small adjustments made it look SO much better on.

I didn't cut the facings because I didn't have enough self fabric, and thought that the facing edge might show through anyhow. I finished the edges with black bias tape facing instead. And I added the patch pockets a little differently than the pattern suggested -- I lined them and topstitched them on using the technique from a recent Burda make.

Then I just took up an one inch hem and I was done. I love this! I think that I am going to get a lot of wear out of this staple. The only drawback is that it seems to be a bit of a lint attractor. So will have to watch out & carry a lint roller ;) And I think I may need to add a lining if I'm going to wear it with my heavy tights.

The only problem is that now I want to also make all the other jumper patterns that I found in my stash!

Worn with Vogue 8634 here