1984 Style!

It's back to 1984 for me today -- the best year of the 80s -- all the best music was out, fashion was starting to really show the 80s aesthetic, and sewing patterns reflected some of that. I thrifted this c.1984 pattern a while ago, and it's been on my To-Make-List ever since. Style 4233 has a great silhouette, and I had just the right thrifted fabric to use for it!

This wasn't a very difficult project; the neckline was probably the most complicated bit, just trying to get the collar piece to wrap around to the back bodice correctly. Otherwise it's pretty simple, with the straightforward undarted skirt, and dolman sleeve bodice. 

The sleeve and the front neckline were what appealed to me most about the pattern when I saw it. The facing was a bit of a trick to get laying flat but a bit of clipping and pressing worked it out. The two buttons at the front opening are supposed to have rouleau loops to close them, but in my fray-prone wool blend there was no rouleau making happening. I instead used two black hair elastics; I cut off the metal closure on the small elastics and tacked them on so that the loop was the right size. It worked out great, much faster than the 40 minutes I spent searching through my button stash to find two matching black buttons that were the correct size and feel for this dress!

I made a small change in the pockets; in the pattern they are attached a few inches below the waist seam. I always find that putting the top of the pocket in the waist seam works much better for me -- with my short arms that placement is perfect, and also, catching the top of the pocket bag into the waist seam keeps the pockets in place, no shifting or flopping happening there. I also lined the skirt as I'll always be wearing tights with it, and the lining also gives a bit more body to the skirt. 

The only thing I really don't like about this pattern is that it uses a centred back zip. I don't know why I didn't change it to an invisible zip, which is always my preferred style, but I went with the pattern and am not very happy with the lumpy zipper insertion. I may still pick it out and replace it, but I couldn't face it after finishing the dress -- it's very hard to see the black stitches in the patterned wool fabric. Maybe I'll try it after I've had a break from the construction part of this dress for a few days! 

But I really like the 40s inspiration in this 80s pattern. perfect for the 2020s. I like where the waistline sits, and the collar/front neckline a lot. It's growing on me! 

Cropped Jacket: Burdastyle Course final project

I finished my last project for the Burdastyle Teacher Certification Course this weekend and am happy to say that I am now a Burda Certified instructor. If I wish to start teaching, that is; at the moment I find my full time job busy enough for me. 

But I'd really wanted to do this course for a while, and since my One Word for the year was "Complete", I am really happy it helped me to finally complete this course. Of course 2020 threw us a few curveballs, but at least this was an online course and seemed like a good fit for life currently! 

My final project was the Burda 109 08/2015 cropped jacket. Funnily enough, this pattern is from the very first issue of Burdastyle magazine I ever bought myself, while on vacation in Montreal -- it's in French, too. I recall seeing it at one of my old hangouts, Tabac Etc. at the Atwater Market, and deciding that it was time to give Burda a try. Of course it's taken me five years to make a jacket from that issue! 

Anyhow, on to the sewing details! It's a cropped, fully lined jacket. And it was surprisingly straightforward to make. I cut it in 42, which fits my shoulders best, and hoped it would fit well enough all over since it is a straight cut, and only just to the waist. I shortened the sleeves by 2" because I thought they would be too long, and I prefer a bracelet length. I also shortened the body by 1" after my flat pattern measurements.

I really like the fit, but if I make it again, I don't think I'll shorten the body, and adjust the sleeve to only 1" shorter. I don't usually have issues with things being TOO short for my petite frame, and I do like this jacket version. But I think a slightly longer one would be just that much better. 

The fabric is a linen/rayon/cotton blend from the drapery section of my local Fabricland, which I bought a few weeks ago. It was a remnant and I had just enough for this jacket (another reason I shortened everything slightly!). I used some black bemberg lining from my stash as well. This is the first time I've done a full lining in a jacket and it went fairly well. I really like the instructions for a centre back ease pleat, and it makes wearing the jacket quite comfortable.

A single clasp at the neckline is an optional feature of this pattern, and I had a silver one I was going to use, but in the end I didn't think it looked right, so left it off. I'll be wearing this open over a dress nearly always anyhow! 

There was nothing too hard in this pattern, and I think adding a bit of trim or mini patch pockets could give you a Chanel feel pretty easily. I'm pleased with the final product (and I so love houndstooth!) and I think it could be changed up to give a different look without much effort. A winner for me, and a great finish to an interesting and useful online class. 

Laundry Day Tee in Houndstooth

This is my third project I've tried from the Indie company Love Notions. My first was the Margot Peplum Top, which I really liked, and the Harmony Blouse was my second, though that one wasn't as much of a success for me.

 This top, the Laundry Day Tee, is a free pattern if you join their Facebook page. I liked the swing silhouette and all the many variations in this pattern, so downloaded it and have finally given it a go.

I love it! The shape is really great, and the options are inspiring. It comes in sizes XS - 5X, and has a variety of sleeve & neckline finishes.

I used a houndstooth knit that I have in my "20 for 2020" plans -- it is a lower stretch fabric so my version does fit closely around the torso, but the swing line is sharper than it would be in a drapier fabric. I love the effect.

I finished the neckline using the cowl option -- and look at this cowl!

 It's huge and certainly keeps your neck warm. It falls in really nice folds due to its volume.

At first I wasn't sure that I could manage this option, as I had limited fabric. But with some creative cutting, and a seamline along the orginal foldline of the cowl, I was able to squeeze it onto my length of fabric (probably just over 1.5 m) and thus have very, very little scrap fabric left over.

It's a perfect match for this fabric, and as a free pattern I was pleased to find that it is well made and goes together smoothly. The process is very quick once you've got your size picked -- it is two pieces, a sleeve that's sewn on flat, and your neckline finish of choice. Love Notions uses layered, no trim pdfs as well, which makes the putting together part a lot easier.

I am thinking about perhaps shortening it by another inch and bringing in the flare a tiny bit. All coming from my fabric choice. But otherwise I really like this comfortable and fun make. I do think I'll likely make a few more, at least one probably in dress length too!
 

Another quite delightful part of this project is the fact that I took these photos of my new top at my library, in front of a community art exhibit sharing my own photos of Kyiv from a visit I took in 2008. It's like a hall of mirrors...

Something Old, Something New!

 I recently shared a photo of a pattern that I found when I was sorting through my stash -- it's a c1991  Vogue 8132, a "Very Easy Vogue Sport" jumper pattern that I bought in 1991 and have meant to make ever since! I decided that it was time to cut it and make it up.

This coincided with the grand reopening of our local Fabricland -- it nearly closed this year but was relocated instead, to the great relief of all the sewists in our community. This weekend was the opening of the new location, which is bright and big and full of wonderful things (and people!)

I picked up a few knits and a couple of patterns. When I saw the black and white houndstooth on sale I knew exactly what to do with it.

Added to this brand new fabric was my very old pattern. Because I bought this Vogue pattern in 1991, it only went up to size 12. But with the oversize silhouette, I was able to grade it up to only a 14 and have plenty of room. I didn't need to go overboard and try to add a size 16 in ;)

I think it looks quite similar to the original!

Trying to pose like the pattern cover but not quite getting there LOL

It's an easy sew, for sure. There are facings for the neck and arms, but I just used bias binding -- there is no need for any stretch in either spot, so the binding helps to stabilize the knit as well. Then I gave it a 1" hem, which necessitated some gathering from a basting line at about 1/4" that I put in before turning up the hem. When I finished stitching, the hem was pretty bumpy, but a gentle steam press straightened that all out.

I wore it as inspired by the pattern cover today, but could easily wear a red turtleneck and tights for a whole different look. It is comfy, cute, and gives lots of room for those holiday dinners! A winner for me.

So by combining a pattern I've had for nearly 29 years with some fabric that I've had for barely 2.9 days, I've made myself a fun and comfortable jumper. It's finally off the list!

Making a Basic: Knit Pencil Skirt

This week I was tidying up my sewing area a little, and I realized I had a stack of 5 or 6 projects that I'd cut and never got back to making. Why? No idea! Just distracted by new projects, I guess.

One of these projects was a simple knit skirt. I'm really feeling a need for some new skirts right now, especially just basics. So I pulled this one to the top of the pile and got busy. I sewed for about an hour a night for two nights running, and finished it.

Told you I was short! Haha - pictures at work are always fun

I used the skirt from the New Look 6164 "Just4Knits" wardrobe pattern. I cut it at size 18 according to my measurements and the fact that the fabric I used was not quite stretchy enough. Gave myself one extra size up to compensate and it fits perfectly.

I found just enough of this heavy poly knit at the thrift store for a skirt -- I love houndstooth prints and when I saw this it just said "skirt!" to me. So I cut it out almost immediately...but just finally got it finished!

The only alteration I made to this pattern was to add in some side seam pockets (cut from black broadcloth) I placed the pocket bag tops even with the top of the skirt and sewed them into the waistband right along with the skirt itself. They gape a tiny bit but since I will always wear a loose top over the skirt it doesn't bother me terribly. If you're thin enough that you tuck things into a skirt like this you probably won't have the gaping issue anyhow!

Worn with my tnt Kwik Sew 3559 top, long sleeved version

The skirt has a little slit in the back for walking comfort, and sewed up quickly and tidily. It's very comfortable, and the 70s fabric will wear like a battleship, I think. The only problem is that it does get a bit staticky with wear. 

Hurrah for the perfect match between an old pattern from the stash and some old fabric from the thrift store!