Weekend Review: Smocking Secrets

Smocking Secrets / Maggie Hofmann
CT Publishing, c2022
96 p.

This is a book written by an award winning costumer, sharing how to use smocking for costume effects. However, it's also a fabulous book for anyone interested in fabric manipulation for any use! It's clear, thorough, and colourful, with lots of large photos. Great instructions, diagrams and close-ups make it even more useful and inspirational, too. And there are images of cosplayers who use each pattern or technique in an outfit, to show what can be done. Pretty cool book overall! 

It's divided into two sections, on North American smocking, and English smocking. The North American (or as I've always heard it called, Canadian smocking) is shown on the cover in all of the images except one, the yellow one on the bottom -- that's honeycomb smocking in the traditional English style. The difference is that the North American style is done by stitching fabric points together, usually on the back of the fabric, to create a textured design that is fairly set. English smocking is decorative stitching done over tiny pleats, to create a design with some elasticity and more movement in the garment. They're actually quite different. 

I'm more drawn to the North American style at this point, and would love to try a couple of the beginner designs to see how it goes. She shares a number of designs in both sections, and they are rated from beginner to advanced. Each one has large clear photos and a stitch diagram -- which is basically a grid of points with lines showing the order to pick them up and fasten off. It looks a little confusing but I'm sure once you're actually doing it, the rhythm will make sense, at least after some practice. 

I liked that each style is then shown in an outfit made by a cosplayer (credited) in full gear. It's helpful to get some idea of how these techniques can be incorporated into costumes or even regular garment making. Seeing examples on a garment were helpful for me to imagine which ones I might like to try or include in a piece. 

I was impressed by this one -- it's colourful, bright, engaging and full of useful information for anyone to follow along and learn some of these techniques for themselves. I think someone with a familiarity with sewing and fabric will most easily be able to use this book right away; knowing some handstitching and being familiar with fabric will make it more intuitive for sure. 

While it's aimed at cosplayers, I think any sewist interested in fabric manipulation techniques will be interested in this one. Lots of ideas and inspirational photos too. Recommended!

Weekend Review: Shadowfolds

 

Shadowfolds / Jeffrey Rutzky & Chris K. Palmer
Kodansha America, c2011
128 p.

I came across this book recently, mentioned by someone else -- even though it's more than a decade old, I'd never heard of it. So I requested it via Interlibrary Loan, and I'm so glad I did! It is so inspiring -- and a bit overwhelming too! The amazing techniques shared here are beautiful and half the time I was astonished at how they were able to create the effects they did. 

It's a work between two men who are both origami artists, at different levels of experience. They've created a system of folding fabric which is essentially origami based, but with many new features due to the nature of fabric. They do recommend a lightweight, crisp fabric like muslin, linen, voile or even organza, with some experience first. The authors suggest different ways to use these designs, and there's a feature on a designer who used this technique in a runway show -- so it is possible to add some of these fabric manipulations to garments, if you can find the right match.

The series of folds are done according to a specific dot pattern, and the joins are stitched together (reminding me quite a bit of smocking) and then the folds and gathers are manipulated and pressed in order to get the paper-like results. Many of the pieces are made to be hung in a window, or as a screen, or lampshade, in order to show off the shadow patterns of the design -- some designs are shown in four views: front and back opaque, and front and back translucent, and it's astonishing how different they look with a light source behind them, it's like a hidden design appears. There are 15 projects shared, ranging from small beginner ones to large and complex. 

I'm not sure I will try many of these projects, simply because of time, but I have noted a few that I'd like to experiment with. There is a pattern for a book cover that appeals to me, and is small enough not to be too intimidating. I think I may give that a go, and see if I can get my head around this complex process. There is also a pattern for a pillbox hat with a star fold on the top. I think that would be really cool, too! 

This is a book I'd like to own, so that I could try the designs slowly and as I have interest. Might have to look further for my own copy :) 

Weekend Review: The Art of Manipulating Fabric

 

The Art of Manipulating Fabric / Colette Wolff
Radnor, PA: Chilton, c1996.
311 p.

Today I'm sharing the classic in the field of Fabric Manipulation! I picked up a copy of this at a quilt show recently, a great deal. And I've really enjoyed going through it, despite it being an older book and thus all in black and white. The images are there more for instruction than glossy inspo, anyhow, and there is a LOT of instruction and technique covered in this very inspiring book. There are over 350 images to study, showing many different dimensional techniques. 

The book is organized into six main categories, with various techniques and examples in each one. They are as follows: 

1. Controlled Crushing (Gathering, Shirring)

2. Supplementary Fullness (Ruffles, Flounces, Godets)

3. Systematic Folding (Pleating, Smocking, Tucking)

4. Filled Reliefs (Cording, Quilting, Stuffing)

5. Structured Surfaces (Darts)

6. Mixed Manipulations

It's a little overwhelming how many ideas are included here. The images are all of Wolff's samples, illustrating the techniques, and the text is also quite clear. Some of the variations can be quite similar, but she explains the details of each one, including both front and back pictures of some of them to make them more understandable. It's precise, with clear instructions and even measurements for some of the examples.

I am most interested in the "Systematic Folding" section at the moment - pleats and tucks are always something I like to see as garment details, and I've been looking at a few resources on smocking lately, as well. I opened the book to the pleating section and saw the solution to a skirt mend I want to get to -- the back slit is too short for comfortable walking right now, but would be too revealing if I just opened up the seam. So I'm going to add a kick pleat using a style she shows in her book (good thing I have extra fabric left...) That's just one quick useful tip I got from this book right away. But all the parts on smocking and tucking, specifically, are inspiring me to think of ways to use them in some artwork. So many ideas! 

I've seen a few of these techniques spread across other books, but it's nice to have them all collated here so efficiently. This book is very comprehensive, well-organized, and thorough on its subject. It's an older book and intended as a reference volume, so it's not flashy inspo pics like in some more recent books. But it is fully descriptive of a vast array of fabric manipulations, which is what it set out to do. Great book to be able to refer to for ideas and as a starting point for many unusual effects. 

Weekend Review: Layered Cloth

 

Layered Cloth / Ann Small
Tunbridge Wells, Kent, UK: Search Press, c2017.
144 p.

I've looked at various titles in this "The Textile Artist" series, and they are always very good at including instructions and lots of photos on whichever topic they're covering. This one was no exception; there are many large and clear images illustrating the technique she's sharing. It just depends if it's a technique that catches your interest! 

This book focuses on fabric manipulation, as clearly stated in the title. The first half of the book deals with straightforward layers of fabric, mostly what I'd know as chenille. She also layers by cutting shapes out of the top layers and folding them back -- both of these are illustrated on the cover. Unfortunately for me, I'm not really taken with the frayed and messy look of these styles. Lots of people love it, but I don't think it's something I'd do much of at all (although never say never!) 

The second half of the book has some different kinds of manipulations, not quite a simple layering. There is a section on a trapunto influenced technique - layering fabrics and then stuffing the main motifs from the back in trapunto, which is interesting, especially in the neoclassical images she's using, pillars and such. Then there's a bit on suffolk puffs, done in various sizes and not perfectly circular, some with centre stuffing added. This reminds me a bit of the puffs in Ruth Singer's book on fabric manipulations, and I do like this technique and idea quite a bit. And she also talks about twisting fabrics to create shapes. 

The section of this book which I found the most original was a technique that she created called "Book Stacks" (guess why I like this one!) It's a series of folded squares all sewn closely together to make long columns that are textured and bookish. Hard to explain the technique but the effect is great. 

There are also a couple of quick projects at the end using a few of the techniques - scarves, pins, stuff like that. I'd be more likely to use these ideas in an art piece than in wearables, but I can see other people with a different style who would like the projects. Overall, an interesting read with some new ideas, which is well laid out and comprehensive. Check it out if you can find a copy! 

Weekend Review: Stitch Magic

 

Stitch Magic / Alison Reid
NY: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, c2011.
144 p.

This fascinating book is exactly what the subtitle says it is: a compendium of sewing techniques for sculpting fabric. It was wonderfully inspiring to look through, with some ideas appealing more to me immediately, like the pintucks on the cover and inside content page -- they are tiny tucks that look like ripples in sand. Love them! But there are also so many other marvellous ideas within. 

There are a variety of techniques here, and ones that work with different kinds of fabrics, from felts to cotton lawns. As mentioned, I am especially drawn to the pintucking, but there are a number of different ways to use it shown in the book. From crossing over one another to meandering pintucks, to corded or decoratively stitched ones, there are many ideas shared. I think this level of texture is right at my sweet spot. 

There are sections on pleating fabric to get different shapes and forms, and some of those were also unusual and of interest. Using pleats to shape a fabric as well as to give it a whole new feel were both shared -- this origami style belt, for instance, is made with fancy pleating. 

I also found the section on making cord appealing. While it doesn't talk about cord-making with a tool, it has a simplified style that home sewists can accomplish just with twisted strips of fabric, a cording foot and a zigzag stitch. I can see tons of use for quick sewn cording, and there are a number of different applications shared in the projects. 

The book is laid out clearly, with lots of full colour photos to inspire. (You can find lots of images from the book at the publisher's website). The specific technique in each section is shown in its basics, with instructions and line drawings. Then it's up to you to use that technique and experiment in many of the ways shown and explained within projects for that section. There are a variety of projects, too, at different levels, so everyone should be able to give something a  try from this book. There are a fair number of household goods and accessories in the projects, but I think that a garment maker like myself can certainly take these ideas into a clothing project. Making a pillow cover would be a great way to practice and get the feel for a technique that you can then make bigger on a garment. 

I enjoyed the creativity of this book and its straightforward presentation of advanced techniques for an adventurous sewist. I'm really interested in the idea of manipulating fabric to create something really individual, and I think that this book will be helpful in developing both ideas and the practical know-how to try them out. 

I got this in my library; if you can take a look at it too, I'd recommend it. Anyone interested in fabric manipulation is sure to find something intriguing here. 

Weekend Review: Ruth Singer's Fabric Manipulation

Fabric Manipulation: 150 Creative Sewing Techniques
by Ruth Singer
Exeter, UK: David & Charles, c2013.
175 p.

I picked this book up through the library and was very pleased with the inspiration inside! As noted right in the title, there are 150 ideas for fabric manipulation in this book, although quite a few use ribbon as in the image on the cover. (all images here are from the publisher).

These techniques fold, tuck, smock, gather and squish fabric to create new textures and visual impact -- the techniques can then be used in any kind of project you want. Projects are not included here but the techniques are highlighted on pillows, art quilts, and other things, and when you're reading with an interested eye you can think of many, many ways to incorporate some of these ideas into your own sewing. 

There are some gorgeous ideas for smocked velvet (luscious), and for tons of trim ideas. Any of the pleated ribbon techniques could be used as trim for skirt or jacket edges and would make a simple garment look a lot fancier. There was even the simple idea (but one which had never occurred to me) to face a pleat with a ribbon, so that when you walk, the pleats would swing and show off the contrast. I really like that one! 

Each of the techniques is clearly explained, and the accompanying photos are large and clear, showing the details well. Singer makes these tucks and folds seem approachable and non-intimidating, and starts with a simple idea that she then expands on to suggest so many more ways to use it. I loved the weirdness of lined yoyos attached to a ground fabric: they look organic somehow. 

I also really love tucks of all kinds and there are some nice ideas here for different effects using tucks -- I'm sure this is something I could easily incorporate into a garment. They are so basic but look so different depending on how you finish them. 

There is a lot of variety in this book, so I think it could be useful to quilters, garment sewists and art quilters alike. If you like to fuss around with fabric and make it into something more interesting than it was to begin with, this is definitely a reference book you'll want on your shelves. I really enjoyed it and have marked some ideas down for experimenting in the new year. Clear and colourful, this was a real find. 

Weekend Review: Tucks Textures & Pleats

Tucks Textures & Pleats / Jennie Rayment
Haslemere, Surrey: JR Publications, c1994.
104 p.

Today's book of embellishment ideas comes from Jennie Rayment, a quilter known for her fabric manipulation techniques. This is one of her very first books, and I first became acquainted with it through my local quilt club. 

Although it is aimed mainly at quilting and/or decor objects, there are also project ideas for adding fancy panels to bags, belts or even jackets and vests. The book is arranged both by technique and project -- since it was self-published, the instructional illustrations are all just hand drawn black and white, but they are very clear, and the techniques are clearly explained. There are a couple of colour photo pages inserted as well, showing some of the finished pieces in greater detail. 

There is also a section on what to do with your textured pieces - create cushions, bags and so forth, and how to finish them neatly. Lots of ideas and examples to spark the imagination and get you going on a new fabric manipulation kick! 

Of course, since I'm looking at this book from the perspective of garment sewing, I could see many ways to adapt these techniques to a piece of clothing. Creating special panels for a quilted style jacket, perhaps. Or maybe a yoke or insert in a plain linen dress that has some fancy pintucks beforehand (I like the look of crossed tucks a lot). There are ideas for creating texture through quilting, or through origami style folded fabric that is stitched into place. She even has new ways of using bias tucks or bands as accents. And there is a chapter on fabric weaving. There is a lot here that a garment sewist can be inspired by! 

It's funny that this book is quite old but the techniques feel fresh and intriguing. The author's website has a bit more information as well as a follow-up book to this one available, so if the idea of changing your fabric through texture appeals to you, I'd recommend you check it out. For an older coil bound quilting focused book, I was surprised by how much use I could get out of it for clothing and accessory projects. I like her approach to teaching and writing, and think that she has a gift for inspiring even newer sewists and needleworkers to give some of these ideas a try. Recommended!