I don't often make outerwear or even blazers, but I was looking for a fall jacket/sweater, and the first thing I
thought of was the new
Tania Coatigan by Jalie. This jacket-like cardigan
without front closures is perfect to throw on over a dress to look instantly
chic and keep yourself warm in the chillier days or nights of fall! It has the
addition of angled seams and clever pockets for that extra appeal.
The recommended fabrics for this pattern are stable knits or
linen; it gives different looks depending on the fabric you choose, from casual
to dressy. The pattern also recommends that you use your high bust measurement
for a fitted look, and your bust for a looser fit. This opens up so many
options!
I’m a librarian and I love sewing with unexpected fabrics,
so I really couldn’t resist this cotton drapery fabric -
PK Studio Cursive Caps - from Fabricville for my choice for
the Tania! Look at those beautiful cursive letters – I can’t wait to wear this
to work.
Although not one of the recommended fabrics, it is fairly
lightweight without any special coatings or treatments that can sometimes be
found on upholstery fabrics. Thinking about the characteristics of the fabric,
the drape, the weight, scale of the print, and so on, is vital when deciding to
use an unusual fabric choice for any pattern. Think about the lines of the
pattern and whether the fabric you’ve chosen will match with that. For example,
this fabric wouldn’t work for anything full or gathered, but it works amazingly
for something fitted, with structure.
|
These back seams are perfectly straight when this is hanging on a hanger; there is slightly too much fabric in the upper back for my body & so they curve out when worn. Sigh. |
I made very few alterations to the Tania. Jalie’s patterns
are always very well drafted. Because I’m only 5’2”, I did shorten it slightly
above the angled seams, and shortened the sleeve length by a couple of inches.
I also increased the bicep of the sleeve by 1.5” because my fabric doesn’t have
much give and I often find Jalie sleeves narrow for my body normally anyhow.
I made a few cosmetic changes too: to accent those angled
seams I inserted some satin piping that I also found in the upholstery
department! It took a little extra time and hand basting to ensure that the
points matched up at the seams but it was worth it. Because this drapery fabric
tends to fray easily, I also took the time to bind all the seams with seam
binding tape. This was the lengthiest part of the process! So much pinning and
careful sewing. And I finished the edges of my facing with some bias binding for
a tidy and attractive edge.
Other than those changes, this was a quick sew, perfect for
the enthusiastic beginner on up. This pattern has potential for many different
versions. When I make it again, I’ll probably use a knit, and one change I’ll
make is to make the body one size smaller for a snugger fit. After wearing for a bit, I find that there
is a lot of volume in the lower back for my body so will just take it in a
little at the centre back seam to adjust for that too. A great pattern and a
wonderful, high quality fabric with a print that I love make this into a hit
for me!