Weekend Review: Contemporary Quilts: Design, Surface & Stitch

 

Contemporary Quilts: Design, Surface & Stitch / Sandra Meech
London: Batsford, c2003.
128 p.

Somehow as September approaches, it always feels like Back To School Time no matter how long it's been since school was a part of my life! And so I'm really into learning new things at this time of year, even more so than usual. I've found a few titles that will add to my knowledge of textile arts; this is one that I really enjoyed.

This is a wonderful book about design in art quilts. From painterly approaches to developing your concept, to detailing techniques of surface design and stitching, this book goes over so much that is useful to a textile artist. 

There is also a wealth of big, bright and clear photos of quilts by many different artists with various styles. It's good to see examples of the design concepts, colour theory, techniques and finishing, from many different perspectives. There are over 200 illustrations, so plenty to both inspire and inform you.

There are also 4 "Design Classes", or exercises, for readers to follow to learn how to break out of the basics and add new ideas and practices to their art making. These are straightforward but useful exercises to give a fresh look at how to design your projects. I appreciated the logical layout and clear writing in this book, and found quite a lot to engage me. I learned some new tips through the text, and some new ideas just from looking closely at the examples (many of which also had detail close-ups). 

This is a book to go back to and work through in different areas. Two of the design exercises in particular, on composition and colour, are ones that I'll be trying out as I think they'll really add to my development as a textile artist. I'm glad I came across this book, and have already got my hands on another of Sandra Meech's titles. Looking forward to more by this author. 

Weekend Review: Fashion on the Ration

Fashion on the Ration / Julie Summers
NY: Profile, c2015.
240 p. 

This was a fantastic read, a history of (mainly) women's wear in Britain during WWII. If you're interested in fashion history, you'll love it. I was able to get my hands on it thanks to the wonders of Interlibrary Loan. 

It's broken up into a series of themes; clothing rationing and coupons, women's uniforms, CC41 and Utility clothing & the involvement of high fashion designers in making utility clothing acceptable, make do and mend, fashion magazines during the war years, and the idea of beauty as a morale booster. That's just a quick overview. There is so much in this book, and the bibliography and notes are extensive to lead you on to more. 

Unfortunately there are just a few photos included; while they are wonderful I'd have loved to see even more examples of what she was talking about. I enjoyed the fashion images but also the advertising posters and packaging. So fascinating! One of the photos features a Utility dress by Norman Hartnell. I had to look twice because it seemed very familiar to me. Then I realized it's because it's basically Butterick 6450 (which I've made) though most likely without elastic since that was also rationed for the war effort. 

It's very well written -- keeps you reading like it's a novel. Summers goes into personal stories to illustrate her topics, including excerpts from letters. There was one woman who wrote such delightful letters to her husband that I quickly checked the bibliography to see if I could get my hands on them -- sadly they were manuscript only at the Imperial War Museum archives that the author used. These personal elements, newly shared, make the book particularly engaging. There are also excerpts from Vogue and the newspapers about the patriotic duty of dress and beauty at this time, which bring a feel of the contemporary realities for people trying to make sense of the complicated and ever changing coupon system (as an aside, the endpapers are printed as coupon sheets and it's really neat!) 

Coupons didn't go too far, but as she points out, clothing was still relatively expensive then, so you wouldn't be out buying five suits a season anyhow. There were workarounds that came and went; at first overalls didn't take coupons as they were work wear, but eventually even those required coupons. Upholstery fabrics didn't need coupons so there were various outfits made from those choices. She shares a story of an unfortunate woman whose new dress matched the sofa when she went to a friend's for tea. And there was lots of reworking of current clothing to create new items to meet the fashions and the need for new clothing. Of course, the rich were at an advantage because they had so much to begin with; it was the middle classes and poorer who really suffered (although she makes a point that when Utility clothing became widely available, it was often of better quality than poorer classes had ever been able to afford, so sometimes their wardrobes actually improved.) 

There are many more intriguing stories and personal bits in this book; I enjoyed the way she melded fashion history with personal stories and the wider social context as well. The huge changes that the war made to the way women dressed came from clothing shortages but also from the many changes in women's daily lives -- they were wearing uniforms in service, or work wear in factories or as Home Girls, and their need and desire for specific types of clothing evolved. 

Of course I was also interested in the make do and mend parts and the discussion of sewing related info. At this time, not only was Vogue a popular magazine, but it also had the Vogue pattern book which provided sewing patterns since home sewing was still very common. Summers quotes the Vogue pattern book early on in the book, and I could relate! 

In the autumn of 1939, the editor of the Vogue pattern book told women not to moan about the long evenings caused by blackouts, but to make the most of them by dressmaking. She encouraged the beginner to start with easy patterns because 'nothing is more demoralising than failing to produce the finished article.'

This is a great read, highly recommended. Solid history, told in a well organized and engaging narrative, with lots of fabulous fashion and sewing stories rolled in. This was so good I'll be looking for a copy of my own to keep. 

 

Weekend Review: Zero Waste Fashion Design

 

Zero Waste Fashion Design / Timo Rissanen & Holly McQuillan
London: Bloomsbury, c2016.
223 p.

I requested this book via Interlibrary Loan after reading about it in Liz Haywood's Zero Waste Sewing. She mentions that these makers inspired her to design with zero waste techniques, and so I wanted to check it out too. 

It's fascinating, but quite dense. It's noted that this is focused on being a textbook for fashion designers and students, and if you were either I think this book would be invaluable. For home sewists with an interest in the area it is a bit overwhelming! But, as mentioned, still pretty intriguing. If you have an interest in sustainable fashion, this would be a great addition to your reading.

The book goes over many areas of zero waste - history and basics of zero waste designs, pattern cutting and manufacturing zero waste garments including using digital technologies, adapting existing designs for zero waste, and looking forward in the design field. Lots of information and a wealth of illustrations of finished designs as well as cutting layouts are given. In between there are interviews with designers who use these techniques or are experts in pattern cutting - from Winifred Aldrich to Yeohlee and many more. These were interesting and added a lot to the reading experience. You can find a complete list of the contents on the publisher's page if you want to get a closer look at what's inside.

If you're confident with how to put together zero waste patterns from the pieces on a diagram, you might be able to make a few of the pieces illustrated in the book. If not, it's just a great start to understanding the concepts and purposes of zero waste design. I find that many of the designs are pretty shapeless and bulky for my own tastes so will keep watching the zero waste space for future growth. I know that already, Liz Haywood has been able to design some pieces that are more fitted and "traditional" looking so I'm sure that style will develop further. But just reading the interviews and the explanations of various collections was informative and worth the time to explore this book.

Definitely worth taking a look at this one if you can find it in your own library. It is rather expensive so probably best purchased if you're a fashion student or someone interested in designing your own zero waste patterns. 

Weekend Review: Make It Your Own

Make It Your Own: Personalizing Patterns for Creative Design /
Lori Bottom & Ronda Chaney
Radnor, PA: Chilton Books, c1994
167 p.

I requested this 1994 book via Interlibrary Loan after someone recommended it on PatternReview. It's definitely of its era, with fashion sketches that are very much 80s and 90s. However, as shown by my recent post on patterns of that era, I really love that element!

The book is a primer on taking a pattern and changing it up -- adding collars, overlays, tiers, ruffles, drawstrings; changing necklines, closures or sleeves, and making yourself a new look. Each idea is illustrated with a sketch, and has good information on how to do each alteration. Measurements for new collars or overlays are explained, and sketches show the steps. It has tons of great ideas that can be used today and the techniques are not dated even if some of the particular styles are.

I found two ideas that I want to use right away, and many more to inspire me. I'm going to have to keep an eye out while thrifting and second hand book store shopping to see if I can get my own copy, because this is one of the most interesting sewing books I've seen in a while. I think it is due for an update and a reissue.

The things that caught my eye right now are: how to add tiers to a skirt or dress, and, how to add a tied bolero style overlay to any V-neck pattern. They both look like neat, modern ideas. They are also both pretty straightforward and any sewist with a bit of experience would be able to figure them out. I love how this book gives lots of ideas and also assumes that anyone can do this. It's positive and fun.

Definitely recommended if you want to modify and adapt your current patterns, and don't mind a bit of 90s illustration to go with it.

Weekend Review: Freehand Fashion

Freehand Fashion: Learn to Sew the Perfect Wardrobe / Chinelo Bally
London: Pavilion, c2015.
189 p.

I first saw Chinelo when she was a contestant on the Great British Sewing Bee, as most people probably did. I was impressed with her freehand cutting techniques and her story. And I was thrilled when I heard that she was putting a book out. However, it's taken me all this time to actually get my hands on the book and explore it!

It's based on her method of sewing without paper patterns, a Nigerian technique she learned from her family. Essentially, you create blocks according to your own measurements, and then use those to mark a  pattern right onto the fabric. It takes practice to switch your mind over to this process.

The book is laid out in three main sections: an overview of sewing techniques (great resource), an illustrated guide to taking the measurements you'll need for this method, and then a guide to making your own blocks, followed by a group of 15 projects ranging in difficulty -- this includes the velvet wrap dress which Chinelo won project of the week for on the GBSB and which everyone was swooning over at the time (including me!)

Picture of yesterday's work. Ankle length remake of #gbsb wrap #dress. #freehand #velvet #lace #burgundy #duskypink pic.twitter.com/3GMv1UYq7x

— Chinelo Bally (@Chinelobally) April 2, 2014

It's full of detailed information and seems like quite a different way of approaching garment sewing, but a really intriguing one. There are a few of these projects I'd like to try: while reading this, I felt inspired but haven't tried the process yet. I need a bit more time to work on creating a block according to her instructions so that I can try out a few of the designs.

This is the kind of book I'd like to have for my own so that I could refer back to it often. I'm sure that only by making quite a few things could you feel that you were beginning to get this method down. I found it to be very complete, laid out well, and with lots of fabulous illustrations to guide the reader. Of course I haven't actually tried any of the projects yet, but when I do, I will report back.

It's a colourful, modern, and inspiring book though, with good production values and a range of styles shown. And of course, since it's all done according to one's personal measurements, there are no size restrictions here. I was impressed by it.

Literary Sewing Circle: Inspired Patterns!

For our first Inspiration Post I'm featuring some basics -- pattern possibilities inspired by the setting & characters of Dance, Gladys, Dance.

This novel is set in Winnipeg, smack dab in the middle of Canada. Horizontally speaking, at least. This is a fairly unusual setting; while there are many urban novels in CanLit, they are more often set in Toronto, Montreal or Vancouver. So following along with this setting, here are some ideas, all from Canadian pattern companies.

You might want to wear a bustier just like Frieda in the early chapters of the book -- though I'd recommend not accidentally wearing it backward like she does ;) BraMakers Supply in Hamilton carries a fun pattern for the "Freedom Corset" -- not exactly bustier but close, and definitely sexy!

Or, you might want to try a quick underbust waist cincher or an online Craftsy course by Linda Sparks from Farthingale's right here in Stratford. 

Jalie Patterns in Quebec also carries many fitted designs which might suit this mood.


If you're thinking more along the lines of Mr. Hausselman for inspiration, you couldn't go wrong with this beautifully designed  Belvedere Waistcoat by Thread Theory, based in Vancouver. Classy, with lots of pocket space for memory cards or usb sticks when you're out there busily photographing the urban landscape.

Meanwhile, Lady March may inspire a full-on Mrs. Roper look with the Charlie Caftan by Closet Case Patterns, or perhaps a slightly more casual look with the Suki Kimono from Helen's Closet.

To evoke Ginny's business woman look, wear lots of power make-up and the dressy Cordova Jacket by Sewaholic Patterns - wear with In-House Patterns' New York Mini Skirt & heels and you'll be heading to the top of the office.

If you're dreaming about a Gladys era dress, try Victory Patterns' sweet Hazel frock, in a shimmery green for full Gladys-dancing effect.

Or you just might want to channel Frieda's art making into a colourful, colour blocked Slimming Dress from MacPhee Workshop. Mix up the colours and have fun!

I hope you're getting some ideas for projects through these characters, and if you've started reading, that you are enjoying it! Do you have any ideas for matching patterns? If so, share them in the comments.

If you've started reading, who are you finding to be the most intriguing character so far? Does somebody stand out for you? Share your thoughts below. I'll start... in the first few chapters I really enjoyed getting to know Frieda in all of her foul-mouthed obstinacy, and loved the first time Gladys showed up too. Lots of great characters to follow here.