Spring Suki in Sateen

A while back I read and reviewed Tilly and the Buttons' Make It Simple sewing book. At that point I mentioned that I was most interested in the Suki Dress from that book. Well, I was sorting through the stash and came across a cotton sateen that I bought a long time ago, and thought that this was a perfect match. 

The suggested fabric for the Suki is something with more drape or flow, but I like a structured garment, and thought that this fabric would work well. It did! The only issue I have with it is that it is a bit see-through so will be wearing a full slip with it, nothing too bad. 

I cut a size 5/6 which seemed to work well for my measurements. It's a simple dress, which you could wear loose without a belt if you were going for a cocoon look, but not with a stiffer fabric like this one - it's more like an egg. With the belt it's fabulous. I had some trouble getting the belt loops sewn on neatly, but you can't tell so all that matters is that they are secure ;) 

The belt is actually a really nice feature, transportable to a standalone pattern. It's not just a sash, it is a wide belt for 3/4 of it's length, with narrow ties sewn into the front. I really like the effect, it's easy to tie without a bulky knot at the front, and just adds a little extra detail to this fairly simple outfit. 

My changes were that I added side seam pockets, using my favourite pocket bag pattern. I just made sure to mark the waistline on the pattern so that I could place the pockets correctly. Tilly suggests trying on the dress before placing the belt loops; I found that they needed to be slightly higher than I'd first thought, so trying it on first is a great plan. (I had the shoulders sewn together but the sides only pinned, so I could sew the loops on a flat piece of fabric afterward.)

I shortened the dress before cutting it out but found that with the belt on I could have left another inch for a hem. As it was, I didn't want it much shorter than it was cut, so ended up giving it a hem facing using some premade vintage bias binding (very lightweight, unlike modern cotton-poly binding). That gave me a 1/4" hem, which was perfect, and also gave a very pretty finish. 

I'm quite pleased with this dress. The simple silhouette really highlights this bright and bold print, and the small details are nice. I might make this style of  belt for other outfits too! Another of my blue & yellow Spring projects complete :) 

Styled for this still cool Spring day

It's Agnes, for the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge

For this year's #BHMPatternDesigner challenge, I set myself the task of finally making a well-fitting pencil skirt. I always have problems with skirt fitting for some reason! I found the Agnes Pencil Skirt by Michelle Sews a while back, and decided that this was the time to give it a go - it has all the elements I want in a pencil skirt (pockets!) and I decided that learning to line a skirt, including the back vent, was something I needed to do this month. 

This pattern also spoke to me because it is named Agnes, which was my beloved Gran's name. So I wanted to make it with her in mind. Imagine my surprise when Michelle said that she'd named this pattern after her own grandmother! Extra special :) 

I can't deny it was a bit complicated when it came to that lining. The instructions for this skirt are thorough, and include photos, but I still needed to go to the Agnes sewalong on Michelle Sews' blog and watch the vent lining instruction video a couple of times. In the end, I got it done, not perfectly or fully cleanly but it's all on the inside and staying put so that's good enough for me. The next time I try this, I'm hoping my technique will improve ;) 

Other than that issue, I had no problems with this pattern. I had a great piece of cotton sateen with some stretch, in this fabulous leopard print, which I've been saving for a pencil skirt. It worked out perfectly. I really like this design, as it has so many nice details in it. She includes the option to pipe the edges of the slant pockets, so of course I had to do it. I had some satiny black piping left over from my Jalie Tania coatigan project in 2019, so added it to this project. I love it.

 

The back zip also includes a zip shield, which is very tidy and fancy -- and actually very easy, I think I might add one to many other patterns from now on. The zip stops at the bottom of the waistband and then a hook and eye or a button is added to the waistband. I happened to have a bronze-colour skirt hook and eye handy so used that, since it matches so well.

I think this went together very neatly and logically. As mentioned, I did have some trouble getting my head around how to attach the lining to the vent. So give yourself time to figure that out if needed. The sewalong video is helpful, and of course many sewing reference books on your shelf might also have instructions on this technique if you need more info. 

I always enjoy the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge; be sure to check out the Challenge page, and the hashtag to find out more, and see some of the fantastic outfits others are making up this month. You'll discover some wonderful new Black designers, shop owners and more. There are still a couple of days to take advantage of the discounts and deals many pattern shops are offering for Februrary. I'm happy to have found Michelle Sews and this great pattern to add to my stash. 

February Brings #BHMPD

 

I love the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge! It's such a great idea -- highlighting Black designers, pattern makers and sewing business owners in a fun and relaxed challenge. 

This year, #BHMPD is being hosted by @SewNaturalDane and @Island Sewcialist It happens mostly over on Instagram, and they've been sharing all sorts of suggestions for companies and designers to follow. The challenge is really just to make something by a Black pattern designer during February and share it with the hashtags, tagging the hosts too. They even have pattern discount codes and sponsor prizes, too. So be sure to check it out. 

I've participated the last two years, with patterns from my stash. In 2020 I made Simplicity 2230, a Khaliah Ali blouse pattern. And in 2019 I made McCalls 7251, a Tracy Reese "Plenty" blouse design. 

This year I'm planning on making something new to me, the Agnes Pencil Skirt by Michelle Sews. I love a good pencil skirt and have been looking for one with pockets for ages. This skirt looks like exactly what I've been searching for.

There is also a nice set of sewalong posts on Michelle's blog, which should also be helpful! I'm planning on making it in this heavy cotton sateen with a touch of stretch which has been in my stash for a long time. 

If I finish and have enough time I might make a top to go with it, probably one from my numerous Khaliah Ali Simplicity patterns. 

I'd use black, not this print, to make a complementary top

I recommend taking a look at this challenge and all the great resources shared around it. Lots to explore and learn!