Weekend Review: Crafting a Better World

Crafting a Better World / Diana Weymar
NY: Harvest, c2024.
167 p.

Another book about craftivism, this is one that I was looking forward to, as soon as I saw it in my library's catalogue. It's a little book, about the size of a paperback although it's hardcover, with a cute cover, too. 

It's written by Diana Weymar, creator of the Tiny Pricks Project using embroidery to make a political statement after the 2016 election. And so this book is US-centric, both in the crafters included and the political references. There are interesting stories with a few from around the world as well, but to me it read very American. 

It features some of the usual suspects, like the Pink Pussyhat project, with a brief description of the project and sometimes an interview of sorts, in which those involved answered a few questions put to them by Weymar. Some of the people included really didn't answer many of the questions, though, and those are very short highlights indeed. There is a focus on the people who Weymar knows, also, and some of the 'craft' that is highlighted isn't what I had expected from the use of the word 'craftivism' which generally indicates fibre arts in some form (and the cover images too). There was a story about a woman making and selling chocolate vulvas, which, I guess. And some famous people were included, like Jamie Lee Curtis, with a short profile. 

The book is a series of profiles of 25 crafters, artists or just activists who the author finds inspiring and wants to share. Some of them don't have much connection to traditional craft at all. The plus is that you can then search out anyone who seems interesting and find out more about them online. And there were LGBTQ+ and people of colour profiled, too, which was nice to have included. 

I did find the small size a bit off-putting, making this book harder to read. And I suppose it just wasn't quite what I was expecting - I was hoping for some conversation about craftivism, aka slow activism, as discussed by people like Sarah Corbett - maybe even a few ideas for projects. But this book isn't that. There aren't projects in it, except for the mention of the ones spurred on by the personalities profiled here. So as a record of activism, this is fine, but if you are looking for more in-depth discussion or inspiration for actual craftivism, I'd say try another title. I think the "DIY Projects" from the subtitle got lost somewhere in the mix. Get this one from the library if you can, so that you can skim through and see if it's the book for you. 

Weekend Review: A Little Book of Craftivism

 

A Little Book of Craftivism / Sarah Corbett
London: Cicada, c2013. 
63 p.

As the world continues on its troublesome way, I think more and more about ways for introverts or busy people or overwhelmed people to continue to participate in civil life, and to have their voices heard. One way that has always appealed to me is craftivism, the melding of craft work with activism. It's slow activism, a way for people to engage deeply, and in a long-term way, with social causes, according to Sarah Corbett, founder of the Craftivist Collective. 

I picked up this book recently, being a big fan of Sarah Corbett and her Craftivist activities. It's exactly what it says it is: a little book, about 4x6, full of photos and explanations of various projects the Craftivist Collective has undertaken (up to the 2013 pub date, anyhow). If you want updates and new things, do check out the website as well. 

This book is charming to look through, and it's an easier reference than old blog posts, too. It shares 9 different projects (including my long-time favourite, the I'm A Piece art project); tips on how to take care of yourself as a craftivist and run activities successfully, instructions on learning to cross-stitch and backstitch, and ideas on words and phrases you might like to use in your own projects. 

It's small but a delightful inspiration, and a good introduction to the world of craftivism. Many of the projects are based in embroidery, as this slow process fits in with Corbett's craft+social action+self-awareness ethos. For anyone new to the idea of craftivism, this is a good intro, not overwhelming but visually appealing, and with enough info to get a reader started in this area. 

You can also find more info on the Craftivist Collective on youtube and on IG. 

Weekend Review: Heart On My Sleeve

Heart on my Sleeve / Jeanne Beker
TO: Simon & Schuster, c2024. 
256 p.

This memoir by Canadian fashion icon Jeanne Beker was a delight. Unlike a traditional memoir, this is structured as a walk through memory, tied to specific pieces of clothing. It highlights how something we wear can carry history and family with it, beyond just being a piece of clothing or an accessory. I really liked this concept and the way it was carried out. She shares an item, then talks about how she got it and the resonances of the piece. Each chapter has a line drawing to illustrate it, drawn by her own artist daughter. And this book sounds just like she's talking to you - the style is intimate and authentic, highlighting both the glamorous parts of her career and her personal challenges. 

I've read her earlier memoirs (such as Finding Myself in Fashion), and some of the stories here are repeated from those earlier books, but still just as enjoyable. The chapters are short, but cover a range of life moments. From the satchel her parents brought with them when they immigrated as Holocaust survivors, containing the small amount of family items they still had, to a Chanel dress given to her by Karl Lagerfeld, this book moves from touching and serious to funny & fashion-related. The pace is good and the book shares so many elements of her life, from her parents, partners and children, to the many famous fashion people she met and befriended in her many years of hosting FashionTelevision. 

There are some great moments included, from the unexpected generosity of Karl Lagerfeld (one of my favourite stories from past books too) to her interviews with fashion greats or music luminaries like Paul McCartney, Keith Richards and more (she worked on MuchMusic before fashion). I really enjoyed the way she started with her wardrobe and let each piece draw out recollections - we all have the experience of knowing just when and where we wore something, and what the meaning of it was to us; some pieces that we've kept forever because of that, and some that we could never wear again. 

This covers fashion history, Canadian history (a fun story about Pierre Trudeau, for example), family stories, and traces the development of Canadian media in a way, too. I thought it was a great read, and one I'd recommend to anyone interested in fashion or Canadian women's lives - especially if you were a fan of FashionTelevision in the old days like me ;) I think it's also of interest to sewists because we really feel the connection to our clothing and can understand the concept of this book fully. Enjoyed this one! 

Weekend Review: Young Originals

Young Originals / Rebecca Jumper Matheson
Lubbock, TX: Texas Tech UP, c2015.
240 p.

This is a book about style, but in a very particular way -- it's all about the creation of a "teen" fashion category, created by American designer Emily Wilkens. 

In the early 40s, Wilkens arose from a career in fashion illustration and designing for children, to become a breakout success in the new area of teenage upscale ready to wear. She started out designing some stage costumes for a play in which the character laments being in between 'children' and 'junior miss' sizes for her clothing - Wilkens realized that this was a real life problem as well and set out to bridge that gap. 

She was very successful, both at designing and at connecting her business to opportunities like boutiques in department stores and lots of promotion. She was very active in the 40s and 50s, but kept working into the 80s, although later on she was more of a health/spa influencer, as I suppose we'd call it now. Her approach was focused on youth and health as the appeal of her clothing and of teens in general. Her aesthetic was the sporty, lean American look, throughout her career. Some of her prescriptive statements in an book aimed at teens that she wrote in the 60s doesn't sit well these days - she says, for example,  ‘All men admire a slender beautiful figure, and there’s no one thing that spoils a girl’s looks, fun and popularity as much as excess weight’. 

This book is really fascinating, however, as a study of a designer that is almost unknown today. It's comprehensive and includes many black and white images as well as a centre insert of some colour images. The author bases her research both in archives (press clippings, designs, etc) as well as on extant Wilkens pieces in various museum collections. The concept of teen fashion is well explored and there was quite a bit of fun information here that was new to me. While this is an academic book, it's written in an engaging manner for the interested reader. I'm glad I found it thanks to my library! 

 

Weekend Review: Dressing the Resistance

 

Dressing the Resistance: the visual language of 
protest through history / Camille Benda
NY: Princeton Architectural Press, c2021.
208 p.

I've been meaning to read this for quite a while; now is a good time for it. This is a wide ranging book of social protest via clothing and the signification of a piece of clothing (or lack of it). Benda explores many movements from across cultures, from 1970s anti-war protests to revolutionary France to farmer protests in India and much more. She's focused on style - how a look was chosen, what was the significance, and why a dress-oriented protest stood out. 

There are fascinating sections on the use of colour in various protests, from orange in Ukraine to pink in India. There are discussions of the use of gender expectations in clothing and how that could be subverted to make a point, as with the male protesters in India who donned women's saris during sit-ins or gatherings. Or of the use of a 'uniform' for protestors, to easily identify a stance and to create mass impact. I wasn't thrilled by the inclusion of far right protestors alongside those who try to make life better; there were a couple that slipped in, and although their visual impact is also notable, it's not what I think of as 'protest'. 

Colours and thematic dressing were in full force for UK suffragists in the last century, as they had white, purple and green as shared colours, and some wore dresses printed with newspaper articles to highlight their cause. I found the connection of craft with protest particularly interesting; Benda links handcraft like knitting and crochet, millinery or banner making, to various movements. 

This is a colourful book in itself, with many photos to illustrate her points. It's a pleasure to look through, with such a visual record of different protests over so many different issues. Overall I found it a good read with so much of interest to those who believe that clothing can be a key signifier of identity or communication. Benda also refers to many other fashion historians and their work throughout, so this could lead you to many more books to explore. Definitely worth picking this one up. 

Weekend Review: Taylor Swift Style

 

Taylor Swift Style / Sarah Chapelle
NY: St Martins Griffin, c2024.
352 p.

This book came in to my library recently and I thought I would check it out. I'm not a Swiftie - I don't know much about her songs or persona other than the general stuff everyone knows. So I thought it might be interesting to see how her style works for her. 

This book was written by Sarah Chapelle, a blogger who has been writing the blog Taylor Swift Style for over a decade. There is a note at the beginning that this book is not officially endorsed by Taylor Swift or her team, it's put together by this blogger and it is her perspective. 

I found it quite fascinating, as I was not familiar with Taylor Swift's varied looks or 'eras' by album. This book does a good job of laying things out chronologically and explaining each album and its matching style, along with Taylor's life circumstances around each one. I feel a lot more knowledgeable about Swift's work and career now, so I don't sound so out of it when talking to music fans ;) 

Chapelle also talks about the haircuts and makeup choices that follow the fashion, and how it all works together. There is discussion of  'easter eggs' even in Swift's fashion that will lead superfans to speculate on what's coming next. It's clear that Chapelle is one of those superfans and sometimes the text here gets a bit fangirly for my tastes, but overall it is very informative and knowledgeable and really interesting. 

I did enjoy most of this book, and the 200 photos included really make it. I would have liked to hear a little more about the fashion houses that Swift works with and find out more about that aspect, but I guess that would have to come from Swift's team in another book. I liked seeing the evolution of her style and the many examples of how she creates personas for each album, and how the fashion is a big part of her messaging. Also I found a couple of dresses that I'd love to recreate for myself!  

A fun read if you're into celebrity fashion and the way that clothes can tell a story. I was reminded of Dolly Parton's book Behind the Seams, and think these two are both engaging fashion stories. 

Weekend Review: Stitching Science

 

Stitching Science / Lauren Wright Vartanian & Keltie Thomas
Richmond Hill, ON: Firefly Books, c2024.
64 p.

I have something very special for you today! This is a book that is a wonderful blend of science and art. It's an alphabet book of scientific topics, all illustrated with hand-stitched images by Lauren Wright Vartanian, an artist who is fairly local to me. 

I watched this book's development on IG, as Vartanian began her stitching during lockdown. These are two of my favourite topics so I was thrilled when it was picked up as a book. The detailed embroideries are photographed very well, with large pages and clear, crisp photos that let you see the elements of each one. There is even a section at the end of closeups of some of the smaller details so you can really appreciate the handwork. 

Topics range from A to Z (haha, it is an alphabet book after all!). Vartanian got creative to find something for each letter, and while X is X-Ray as it often is in alphabet books, in this one it really makes sense to include this scientific discovery. Also, the image for this one is one of my favourites in the book, with the layered organza to represent the see through hand - and it's used on the cover because it is so striking. There are many others that are also stunning and creative and help you see things a little differently. If you want to see many, many of the interior images, check out Vartanian's website with her announcement about the book - so good! 

This is marketed as a children's book but I would say it's a middle grade read at least. Each topic has a one page essay about the scientific principle under discussion. Text was written by Keltie Thomas, and it complements the images well. It's thorough but not overwhelming for a younger reader.

Adults will enjoy this as much as younger readers, and might appreciate the skill in the illustrations a little more as well! I hope that reading this will spur interest among readers in both science and in embroidery. I think it's a gorgeous read that shows how well science and art work together to educate and inspire. 

If you're also in Ontario, you can see the original artwork exhibited at the Idea Exchange in Cambridge, on until March 30,. 2025. 

Weekend Review: Gertie's Charmed Sewing Studio

Gertie's Charmed Sewing Studio / Gretchen Hirsch
NY: Abrams, 2024.
208 p.

This is a different kind of book from Gertie - while she's sticking with her love of  vintage clothing, this isn't a book full of patterns and sewing instruction alone. Rather, it's a look over her career and an examination of the patterns she has created (and recreated) in the vintage style. 

There's a lot of history shared in each chapter - Gertie talks about the origins of many of these patterns, which vintage pieces inspired them and shares the social context of the original designers of many of the inspiration pieces. She also shares how and why she decided on that specific pattern as part of her design line. The background of the pattern development is also shared, which is particularly interesting to me - I liked seeing how the idea was turned into reality and some of the challenges or successes with each of the patterns. 

The first 2/3 of the book goes chapter by chapter in this way, featuring the following Charm Patterns:

• The Structured Tropical Dress
• The Rita Blouse
• The Night and Day Dress
• The Lilli Ann-Style Princess Coat
• The Rose Dressing Gown
• The Tropical Mermaid Gown
• The Marilyn Jeans
• The Rose Marie Reid Swimsuit
• The Cummerbund Bubble Dress

And then, to satisfy readers, there are three full-size patterns included, to download and print. The instructions for each are in this book, however, very similarly laid out to her previously published pattern books. These are all vintage influenced womenswear, of course -- you'll find the Madeleine Dress, the Camille Sheath Dress, and the Lillian Jacket. All quite simple in comparison to some of the patterns discussed earlier in the book, since they are just quick patterns for this book. 

I haven't downloaded the patterns yet, as probably only the Lillian Jacket is appealing to me currently. So I can't say whether that process is easy or not, at least not yet. However, as to the book itself, I found it really interesting. The discussion of the setting of each pattern and its nuances both culturally and socially was handled openly, with acknowledgement of "vintage style, not vintage values". Lots of interesting stuff here for both history buffs and sewists! 

Weekend Review: DIY Thrift Flip

 

DIY Thrift Flip / April Yang
Beverly, MA: Quarry Books, c2024.
152 p.

Another fashion choice with a DIY aesthetic for today's review! I found this via my library and was intrigued by it. April Yang is a popular upcyling Youtuber and IG sewing celeb known as Coolirpa. She shares ways to upcycle/refashion things you might find at the thrift store, and has 2.2 million followers interested in this on Youtube. So it makes sense that she's now putting out a book as well. 

This book is full of ideas on how to remake thrift store finds, but I didn't find all of them equally successful. Of course, Coolirpa is young and quite thin, so she can get a new outfit from something purchased secondhand, fairly easily. 

The book is organized well and is aimed at beginners, not longtime sewists. There's an intro all about her and why she got into thrift flips, then three sections: Getting Started, Shopping & Altering Basics, and then a few Thrift Flip Projects as examples and inspo. 

This delivers on what it promises. Getting Started really is an overview of both the basic supplies and basic skills you'll need to get started in upcycling. She goes over things assuming that the reader knows next to nothing - so explains basic stitches, terminology and even fabric types (even as basic as woven vs. knit). This would be really helpful to someone totally new to sewing in this context. 

The next section goes over her top tips for shopping secondhand whether in traditional thrift shops or other venues, or even online, and how to tell what can and can't be fixed. She goes over the best way to seam rip, to add sleeves or pockets and basic tailoring. She also talks about using sewing patterns to help you alter or reuse clothing, as well as tracing off a pattern from existing clothing. It's quite comprehensive but again accessible to someone new to this craft. 

And in the final section there are a number of projects by a number of different sewists of other sizes and shapes as well as her own projects. From embroidering on to sweaters with bulky yarn to cutting slits in a knit dress for decorative purposes to upcycling a pair of leggings into a short/sport bra workout set, there are varied ideas. She shows how to cover unwanted logos, or add embellishments to make a dress look totally different, or make a loose cardigan style jacket out of an oversized t-shirt. She uses pillow shams and curtains to make quick tops, or even a corset style top. I thought the variety of examples was a good feature, showing different styles of remakes on different people. 

While this book isn't exactly for me, I did like the approach and the casual tone of it. It's not intimidating, but also not so simple that the projects look cheap or unfinished. She gives a lot of info but it's all useful and at the beginner/adventurous beginner level. I think if someone was new to upcycling this would be a great starting place. 

Weekend Review: Sew It Yourself

 

Sew It Yourself / Daisy Braid
London: Hardie Grant, 2022.
207 p.

This is a cheerful, colourful book with multiple pattern-free projects included - 10 clothing pieces, and 10 accessories, all with variations. The accessories range from scrunchies and tie belts to bags and face masks. The clothing covers tops, dresses and even one pair of pants/shorts. All of the clothing is boxy and voluminous, based on rectangles, squares or trapezoids, some with lots of ruffling or gathering. 

If you are a younger sewist, or someone who likes more free-form, body based sewing, you will love this. The patterns are very trendy right now, with tiered ruffly skirts, big sleeves, lots of gingham and 'sweet' colours. The accessory ideas are a great intro to sewing, and I think that total newcomers to sewing might be attracted to this book by it's trendiness and bright layout. 

The book begins with the basic facts of sewing: tools, materials and key skills to learn. It starts out simple, from how to measure yourself and cut out a project, and advances to making and applying bias binding, and even caring for your clothing. Then it goes into the project chapters, which have both photos of the project, and illustrations of the steps. Most of the projects are straightforward, being cut out in big blocks of squares or rectangles, with no closures, so they are accessible to new sewists. 

This kind of sewing is definitely not my style; oversized, ruffly or ginghamy is not my aesthetic. So I am unlikely to make any of these, except perhaps the boxy jacket which might work for me. But, the clear and friendly tone of the book, and the easy to approach instruction and projects, are welcoming to anyone wanting to learn. I found it well put together, with lots of variety and levels of sewing included. I think this would appeal to a newer or younger sewist who loves these kinds of outfits, and it would serve them well. 

Weekend Review: Velvet

 

Velvet / Huzama Habayeb
trans. from the Arabic by Kay Heikkinen
Cairo: AUC Press (Hoopoe), 2019, c2016.
312 p.

I wanted to read this story as soon as I saw in the blurb that learning to sew helps the main character construct her life. But it's also the story of a woman raised and living her whole life in a Palestinian refugee camp.

Hawwa grows up in the camp with her family; harsh mother, cruel father, sisters and two brothers. Their father is an angry man and beats his children and wife, and worse. One of Hawwa's brothers grows up with this behaviour reflected in the way he lives his own life, as well. 

She learns to sew as a teenager after being apprenticed to Sitt Qamar, a  glamorous seamstress who lives in a nearby town. (There is a chapter in this section that moves away from Hawwa to tell us Sitt Qamar's own tragic love story). Sitt Qamar loves fabric and stitching, and during Hawwa's time with her, Hawa learns about the luxury of beautiful fabrics, being a businesswoman, and a more independent way of life. The existence of velvet is a sign of a richer, more 

Velvet has an aroma of its own, Sitt Qamar would tell her. “It's the aroma of warmth, of dormant heat, of depth and expanse; it's the aroma of wishes and desires, of maturity, maturity of love and of age; it's the aroma of clean flesh, of flesh suffused with yearnings and the sweat of lust.”

As it turns out, Hawwa is a natural, and becomes a gifted seamstress herself. But as we meet the middle-aged Hawwa at the start of the book, she has splurged on a length of pale blue velvet (silk velvet, no poly blends for her) for a wedding dress -- there is a sensuous description of velvet and the secret joy she has in it, imagining her wedding outfit. 

She has fallen in love with a gentle man, some years after being divorced by the abusive husband she was married to by her parents when she was young. She is now caring for her cruel but decrepit mother, and puts off remarrying because she's afraid of what her brother and her son will say - she's been meeting her new love privately, a no no in the eyes of the horrible men in her family. 

The brother she protected all her life, and the son she cared for, treat her like a food producing machine and money dispenser; they are utterly useless and disrespectful of all women, but somehow especially Hawwa. She prepares a big dinner for them, planning to tell them about her intention to marry, but things do not go well. They have already heard. 

The violent ending was a shock and ruined this book for me, I couldn't take it. I was completely engaged in the story, and imagining just one good thing for Hawwa right alongside her. I understand the events of the story, I can see how it came to the conclusion that it did, but I didn't like it. It just seems like there was so much constant misery for all the women in this book, from Hawwa to her mother and sisters and relatives. Only Sitt Qamar seemed to control her fate, but in the end it was a man who destroyed both her business and her life. 

I thought this was a powerful book, worthy of its Naguib Mahfouz Literary Award, but I just wish that the misery was not quite so unrelenting, that these women were given even a ghost of chance. 

Weekend Review: Making Things

Making Things / Erin Boyle & Rose Pearlman
Berkeley: Hardie Grant, c2024.
320 p.

This brand new library book had to come home with me right away. Of course I'd be interested in a book about making! It's an interesting collection, but right from that cover I was put in mind of a 70s aesthetic. 

And this book reminds me of the crafty miscellany of a book from the 70s, the kind I grew up on. It's organized in 6 sections, with a variety of small projects in each aimed at different purposes, for a total of 100 projects. It ranges from finger cording and macrame to simple sewing, paper folding, cardboard looms, and children's toys. Even these ideas feel 70s! I remember having an "encyclopedia of craft" that had a bunch of potholder projects that you'd make on a homemade cardboard loom, and here it is again. Also the macrame!

The difference is that this book is quite lovely, with lots of clear colour photos of projects and steps, no clutter or ugly colours. But the use-what-you-have, basic and homemade nature of the projects feels so originally DIY.

I feel like there are a lot of ideas I wouldn't use here; the children's chapter in particular. I don't have a sense that these projects would be a hit these days, but maybe in Brooklyn where both the authors live there is more interest in these kind of things. There is also a chapter on gifts, which I would also not go for, I don't have anyone I'd give these kind of things to. The part that most intrigued me was right at the beginning, the section on cording. This was fairly new to me and I can think of some uses for it. 

I can imagine an audience for this who will love it. It's homey, with quick projects to use in small ways, and anyone with that kind of hipster admiration of handwork will likely really enjoy this. If you grew up in the 70s however, you might be having a bit of flashback ;) Check it out at your library to see if this is one you'd want on your shelves. 

 

Weekend Review: Stitched Textiles - Flowers

 

Stitched Textiles: Flowers / Bobby Britnell
Tunbridge Wells, UK: Search Press, c2013.
 128 p.

Another stitching book for my latest review -- this is one I got via interlibrary loan. I've read other books in this series and find them an interesting overview of one specific area of textile art. This particular one features flowers, and there are a few different ways that the concept is incorporated into this book. 

Flowers are just the theme; the book uses them to illustrate varied techniques and ideas. It's a short book but it is fairly comprehensive as an idea book. There are plentiful colour illustrations to inspire and quick mentions of many different ways to get flowers onto your stitched art. 

The book also has a section at the beginning about design, in which the author discusses and gives examples of keeping a sketchbook and drawing designs before stitching. I actually found this part a bit intimidating, as her sketches are beautifully made pieces of art in themselves, and I could never do anything like that. I don't have art training, can't really draw, and like textiles because I don't draw. My initial sketches for any plans I make are more like stick figure symbols to orient myself to where things should end up, not a piece of art ;) 

In any case, the book then shows one example of each technique - including dyeing, monoprinting, block printing, appliqué, foiling, photo-transfer printing, piecing and stitching. I have seen this all before, so there was not much that was new to me, although she talks about painting right on to Bondaweb before sticking it on to your work, with great step by step illustrations - I feel like I understand this concept now, which I was always pretty vague on. 

There are also five mini-projects shared to use some of these new skills on, things like a pincushion or needlecase. I have no interest in the projects but another reader might! I thought this was a good intro to some ideas for those new to textile arts, but I didn't feel like I got that much out of it. The techniques were interesting but I don't use florals much and also felt that some of the shared images were a bit pedestrian. So, not a big hit for me personally, but this is still a good series to begin with if you're just learning and you love the theme of the book you're reading. Maybe I'll try a couple of ideas out and see how they go. 

Weekend Review: Hand-Stitched Oasis

 

Hand-Stitched Oasis / Theresa M. Lawson
Concord, CA: C&T, c2024.
128 p.

I recently found this newer book in my library, and I loved it. The author has an Instagram account where she shares a lot of work, and this book shows some of her secrets to her beautiful pieces. 

I found this to be well laid out, with lots of useful information and lots of great photos, both of the steps to the techniques she shares, and of some finished projects. The focus on the book is on sharing both how to create your own embroidery pattern from your own photos, and the stitches and techniques to use to get the realistic effects you're after. To this end there are only a few complete projects included at the end, if you want to try out her techniques without creating the pattern yourself - it's much more exciting to use her instructions on how to make a cherished image into a design! 

This is not an approach I've seen often, and the section on how to design something is quite complete, sharing all the steps from choosing a good image to altering it into a stitchable design, as well as how to choose background fabrics and good stitches to use for whichever effect you'd like. She talks about some of her designs to illustrate what she means, and I found a bunch of new ideas here. 

There are 35 techniques covered, from using varied base cloths, to painting the backgrounds to begin and then stitching on top, to using layered stitches to make new effects. There is a stitch guide included and I thought that was also clear and useful. 

I liked the style of her stitching; the varied stitches and open designs appeal to me. They feel quite natural, with variety in the number of strands she's using and a great eye for colour. The textures and colours really worked together well to create an artistic piece, in my opinion, and hopefully that's something you can pick up as you work on your own designs using her process. I had to return this as there was someone else interested in it as well, but I really wanted to keep it longer! I may have to buy myself a copy to work through all the steps and see what comes of it. I was impressed :) 

all photos via C&T Publishing

Weekend Review: Vogue & Butterick's Designer Sewing Techniques

 

Vogue & Butterick's Designer Sewing Techniques
NY: Simon & Schuster, c1994.
126 p.

I'm back from my August break -- and one of the things I did during August was visit many thrift stores, discovering fun new sewing things, like this sewing book from the 90s. 

I love reading books from the 80s and 90s. The illustrations are so fun, and I enjoy the retro feel. This book was actually quite good in content as well, and had a focus I hadn't expected. It's written as part of the Sewing Today series, tied to the show on PBS at the time. It talks about various popular designers, and then features some of the designer details they are known for, showing techniques for how to incorporate these yourself. The instructions and photos are really clear and I found some cool ideas to explore further. 

The designers they feature fully with interviews/images are: 

• Donna Karan
• Calvin Klein 
• Linda Allard for Ellen Tracy
• Claude Montana
• Geoffrey Beene 
• Victor Costa 
• Todd Oldham 
• Bill Blass 

And there there is a little blurb at the end about Givenchy, Karl Lagerfeld, and Belleville Sassoon, just to show off some more techniques.

Following each, there is a bit about some of their notable techniques, like pockets, linings, closures/buttonholes, set in sleeves, bias binding, hems, waistlines, patchwork, zippers, tailored collars, lace, denim, and more. I found this an enjoyable read, with a variety of useful tips, interesting designer highlights, and great photos. There is a list at the end of all the Vogue and Butterick patterns used to illustrate the book, all out of print now but so intriguing to look up, including a Karl Lagerfeld Vogue jacket which I am sure is probably going for a fortune on Ebay these days ;) 

I especially enjoyed the section on Todd Oldham, who I wasn't as familiar with as some of the others, and his use of colourful patchwork and novelty buttons. I think a lot of his styles would be in fashion again now. And they certainly give sewists some ideas! A really fun book that you can also look through via the Internet Archive if you are interested. 

Weekend Review: The English Understand Wool

  

The English Understand Wool / Helen DeWitt
New York: New Directions, c2022.
69 p.

I kept seeing this novella mentioned by book bloggers and instagrammers so was delighted to find it in a library collection. I read it in one go; it's only 69 pages, but a pleasure from beginning to end. 

17 yr old Marguerite has been raised with strict standards. She lives in Marrakech, had music lessons, bridge lessons, knows clothing and is taught to avoid mauvais ton at all costs. She's also been taught to treat one's servants well, give them opportunities and pay well, and to give them the month of Ramadan as a paid month off. During which time she and Maman travel to England for wool tweed from the Outer Hebrides (to be made up in London), Ireland for linen, and Paris to their dressmaker. But this year, their Ramadan travels do not follow the usual routine. 

Maman disappears, and Marguerite is the centre of a press frenzy that leads to a publishing deal for her tell-all. But just as the English understand wool, Marguerite understands that she must take care of herself first. Her lessons from Maman serve her well. 

This story was clever, really funny, and full of digs at publishing culture and the super rich. "The English Understand Wool" is both the first and last line of the story, and this reliance on always getting the best required by the circumstances is a theme throughout. There is discussion of fabrics, fashion and dressmaking as well, and the Thai seamstress set up in Paris by Maman plays a key role - as Marguerite notes, men never think about a seamstress. This was an entertaining read, definitely recommended as a light, clever amusement.

Weekend Review: How to Embroider Texture and Pattern

 

How To Embroider Texture and Pattern / Melissa Galbraith
Mount Joy, PA: Landauer, c2023.
160 p.

It's nice to see an embroidery book that moves beyond the basics to something more unusual and challenging. This one lives up to its title -- it has many ideas for creating texture and pattern with stitch.

This was a really great read. It explores many areas that are fresh, and has a definite style of its own, one that's intriguing and colourful. I was inspired! It starts with an overview of the basics (supplies, transferring patterns and so on). Despite this, I think this book is aimed at the intermediate stitcher, one who is ready to learn new techniques and add to their repertoire.

There are 20 projects included, growing in difficulty as you go. The focus is on landscapes, using a variety of stitches, which are all outlined in a glossary. One of the ways that these stitches can create movement and variety is to pay attention to stitch direction - she shows how it can change a piece and create vibrancy. The book also explores how to use fabric prints to add to the effect of a landscape. 

But she also uses other elements to create striking pieces. There is tufting (textured stitching) and using 

organza overlays and stitching in layers to create depth and shading. I found this particularly lovely, and I haven't seen it done before. She's not just stitching an image and then shading with a piece of organza; the background has some stitching, then the organza is added and more stitching as well. It creates visual depth and is really effective. I'd have read this book just for this technique! 

She also goes into framing and finishing. This assumes that you'll be framing most pieces in a hoop, so there is guidance on finishing the back of your piece neatly. This is a useful element that isn't always found in an embroidery book. 

I would definitely recommend this to any stitcher who wants to learn some new stitches or techniques. The way that Galbraith approaches her embroidery is focused and artistic, and I think gives a wider view to what's possible for a newer stitcher. I thought the projects were well laid out and beautiful as well. Great ideas if you are a landscape lover! 

Weekend Review: Daydream Journals

 

Daydream Journals / Tilly Rose
Tunbridge Wells: Search Press, c2022.
128 p.

This was an unusual read for me, a book of embroidered projects which I found via the library. The title and cover make it clear that this is a book about making cloth books! But there are a few other 'wrap' style projects as well. 

The first half of the book is made up of instruction - tools, techniques, and lots of inspiration. The second half then shares projects for readers to make themselves. There is also a small stitch guide section included at the end. 

There are 8 projects in total:  a journal wrap (cover), sewing case, project bag, jar cozy, and 4 kinds of books/booklets. There is nice variety and some intriguing artistic concepts here. The projects are heavily photographed and simple enough to people to follow along. Some of the steps require hand sewing along with the embroidery to finish up a project, but it's all easily done by someone with fairly basic stitching skills. 

But the book is in the 'messy' English style of textile work, and so includes more than the stitches as part of these projects. The design and decoration of many of these textiles includes painting fabric with watercolours to give a gentle wash effect, solar dyeing and even using squished berries as ink sources. I wonder a bit about the lasting power of these techniques but they do give an interesting effect! 

If you like this kind of shabby chic English aesthetic, you might find some appealing ideas for techniques to try in this book. I'm not sure I'd make any of the actual projects in full, but some of the parts of the projects could be adaptable to other things. It's not 100% my style of making but still interesting enough to look at and see how someone else approaches this kind of project and technique.

The "Stitch Wrap" - probably my favourite idea in the book!

Weekend Review: Mindful Embroidery

 

Mindful Embroidery / Charles Henry & Elin Petronella
Salem, MA: Page Street, c2020.
157 p.

I have followed Charles & Elin on IG for a long time, and was pleased to find their book recently. This is a book focusing on sketching with thread, essentially -- it is a series of projects in their most well-known style, street scenes from across Europe. 

It begins with a short intro and a guide to fabric, transferring patterns, and stitches. They are proponents of simple stitches to create work with impact -- all the projects can be completed if you know five basic sttiches: straight, backstitch, split, satin, and french knots. Instructions for all five stitches are shown, with photos, at the beginning of the book. It really is accessible to beginners, although to get the polished results of their final projects, some practice will likely be necessary. 

I enjoyed this book - it's different from many of the embroidery books I have looked through recently, as it's focused on images that are black and white and sketched, mostly, although colour is included in some of the projects with a bit of satin stitch or french knot detail (often florals, but also a cool tile detail). They talk about combining stitches for different effects, ie: multiple rows of straight stitch give a different look that just one row, and also show how the number of strands you choose can affect the visual result. (they use DMC stranded floss as their main thread), It's a different way of approaching stitching, rather than simply covering ground with full strands of floss. I'm really impressed by the artistic impression of this style of stitching. 

Each of the projects has a pattern you can trace off, plus a colour and stitch guide. There are easy ones, are more advanced ones, with the levels marked - and I found them all appealing. I like this style of stitching, and have always enjoyed following the authors' embroidery journey. This book has solid, unique content that makes it worth owning, even if you already have a bunch of stitching books! 

Weekend Review: Stitches

 

Stitches / Glen Huser
TO: Groundwood Books, c2003.
200 p.

I picked up this short YA novel from my library recently -- I mean, just look at the cover! How could I not want to read this one? And I liked it, but do have a few caveats to that opinion.

The story follows Travis and his best friend Chantelle, as they move from fifth grade to junior high. Travis is different; he loves making puppets and wants to grow up to be a professional puppeteer. Chantelle has many physical disabilities and between them they are the outsider kids in their school. Travis has high hopes for changes in junior high, but while they do have supportive home ec and English teachers, who both encourage Travis' interest in drama and puppets, there is also more homophobic bullying from a group of boys he's known for a long time. But their teachers set them a challenge to present A Midsummer Night's Dream as a puppet show as their final project, and this keeps them going. 

The action in the story is mainly centred around the homophobic violence, which is never clearly resolved in the end. Travis' home life is rough, with a mother who's rarely around - he lives with his aunt and uncle (and the uncle is a mean loud mouth). He doesn't have anyone to confide in or to stand with him at home. Chantelle has older brothers who are rough types but at least support her and by extension, Travis as well, and they come in strongly at the end. 

There is lots of description of Travis and Chantelle sourcing fabric for their puppets at the thrift store, and making things like bags, puppet stages, and more. But I thought from the cover and description that there might be a bit more focus on that part of the story. 

The narrative tone is also a bit confusing. It doesn't feel so much like a young adult living the story, but an adult looking back at the events and telling them in retrospect. And the timing is a bit off; sometimes from one paragraph to the next, you are in the next school year without realizing it at first. I think some spacing/breaks in the typesetting could have helped with the transitions. 

I did like this one. It's set in rural Alberta and has some authenticity there. But I did feel a bit overwhelmed by everything being so dismal for Travis, from home to school, with so many aggressive characters and anger everywhere. I was relieved by the ending, with new hopes coming for Travis as he moves to the city to an arts-based high school. But I also felt that this novel, with important themes, could have been better.