Pivoine Blouse for the Literary Sewing Circle

When I was thinking about projects for this round of the Literary Sewing Circle, I kept coming back to the Pivoine Blouse by Delphine & Morrissette.

I have owned this blouse pattern for quite a while and always intended to make one, so now is the time. As I said in an inspiration post, Pivoine is French for Peony, so we are nodding both to Peony the cat and to Miss Judson's French background with this pattern. The fabric I chose is an alphabetical novelty print (actually a sheet originally), so it is also reflective of the entire writing world, I'd say.

There are many versions of this blouse in many fabrics, but I thought that this crisp polycotton would give a boxier look to the blouse - which I wanted. I had just enough left from a previous project using this sheet to fit all the pieces of this blouse pattern onto. I wanted to be sure that the letters ran across the top evenly, on the same plane, and that the cuffs were also vertical (which necessitated cutting them on the cross grain). 

This pattern is all in French, and while my French is basic, I only had to search a few words and instructions on Google Translate to be sure I was doing things correctly. There is a good photo laden blog post about the construction of this blouse on Delphine & Morrissette's site, which was also helpful, mostly to be sure I was getting the seam allowances right and doing things in a good order. 

Otherwise I just depended on my sewing experience to help me along. This was actually quite an easy sew, not many tricky bits at all. I used my trusty 1/4" quilting foot to help me get even edgestitching on the button placket and collar band. Then I searched through all 5 of my button tins to try to find a good match for this fabric. I had a basic white shirt button in mind, but when I saw all of my random one-off buttons that just seemed to match the colours in the fabric so well, I made a decision to use multicolour buttons. They are all nearly the same size, so I just made all the buttonholes based on the mid-sized one (the largest was infinitesimally bigger, and the smallest just a hair smaller) and that worked out okay. I worked out my own button placement so I ended up using 8 buttons rather than the 7 called for in the pattern.

I am really pleased with the cute summer feel of this blouse, and I do love a good alphabet print. This is light and floaty and goes with a lot in my wardrobe. I think I'd make this blouse again, maybe in a drapier fabric for a really different look. I enjoyed sewing this while thinking about Myrtle's adventures in Premeditated Myrtle and all the following titles in the series. I hope everyone else participating in this round of the Literary Sewing Circle also enjoyed both the reading and the sewing! 

Charm Patterns Harlow Pajamas, for the Pattern Review Sewing Bee Round 1

I was a little distracted by my original March sewing plans by the arrival of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee! It started a little later than usual this year, and I was paying attention but not necessarily planning on participating...but the first round challenge was pyjamas -- I've never really made a two piece pj set before, which was the brief for this round. Plus it had to be "uniquely you" in some way. 

I sorted through my pattern stash, and found that I didn't have any paper patterns in my extensive collection for a pj set -- a few nightgown patterns, but nothing like a classic pyjama set. Fortunately, I have many Burda magazines so looked through those, but ended up going with a free pattern from Charm Patterns, the Harlow Pajamas, a 30s inspired retro glam set that I'd downloaded and printed a while ago. 

I like this set, as it has a real vintage vibe (as to be expected from Gertie at Charm Patterns). It can be made in a luxury silky fabric for glam wear, or in cottons for a more casual pj vibe. I went with cottons from my stash.

To make this uniquely me, I used a cotton-poly sheet that I thrifted a while back; it has a brightly coloured alphabet print, and I knew when I saw it that I'd find a use for it somewhere. This was it! It's not too stiff, and sewed up into these pyjama pants perfectly.

It is faintly see-through, and I noticed that my usual seam finish (just pinking) would show through from the right side, that zig zag edge was kind of obvious. Although nobody but me would ever notice, it bothered me, and so I used my overedge foot & stitch for the first time and gave the seams a nice clean finish that way. With a good press they meld into the fabric much better and are not obvious to the eye from the outside. Very pleased with the finish, although it used MUCH more thread than a pinked edge ;)

Then I had to match the print with a solid top. I sorted through my stash for a few different options, but when I came across this bright green cotton lawn I knew that was it. The perfect colour, the perfect softness for pj top. I'd originally purchased it a few years back, to line a dress I was planning on making from a green & yellow cotton that was quite thin, but that's never materialized, so the pj top it was. 

 

There are a lot of nice details in this pattern -- a contrasting neckband from the sheet fabric, plus a belt, and then a decorative frog closure. All that contrast is very pleasing to my eye. The cotton lawn is beautiful to work with, so soft and drapy, and the alphabet fabric turned into a confetti of coloured bits in the neckband, also pleasing!

I cut a 10 in this pattern, but could probably size down slightly if I made it again. I like a loose pj but this could benefit from being just a pinch smaller, I think. I had to shorten the pant leg by 3", and would likely take 1/2" off the waistline rise next time just to make it perfect. I didn't have to adjust the top at all. 

I really like this set! It feels fun and beachy and colourful, and will be a great summer sleepwear option. Even if I don't move on in this year's Sewing Bee, this first round was a great challenge for me, to make something I've never tried before, and do it using some wonderful, fun fabric from my stash. I enjoyed the process of making this set, and will also enjoy wearing it in future. 

Tania Coatigan in Cursive

My latest Fabricville blogger project was a bit of an outlier for me. But I was making it for the latest edition of the Fabricville newsletter, and the theme was Fall jackets.

I don't often make outerwear or even blazers, but I was looking for a fall jacket/sweater, and the first thing I thought of was the new Tania Coatigan by Jalie. This jacket-like cardigan without front closures is perfect to throw on over a dress to look instantly chic and keep yourself warm in the chillier days or nights of fall! It has the addition of angled seams and clever pockets for that extra appeal.

The recommended fabrics for this pattern are stable knits or linen; it gives different looks depending on the fabric you choose, from casual to dressy. The pattern also recommends that you use your high bust measurement for a fitted look, and your bust for a looser fit. This opens up so many options!

I’m a librarian and I love sewing with unexpected fabrics, so I really couldn’t resist this cotton drapery fabric - PK Studio Cursive Caps - from Fabricville for my choice for the Tania! Look at those beautiful cursive letters – I can’t wait to wear this to work.

Although not one of the recommended fabrics, it is fairly lightweight without any special coatings or treatments that can sometimes be found on upholstery fabrics. Thinking about the characteristics of the fabric, the drape, the weight, scale of the print, and so on, is vital when deciding to use an unusual fabric choice for any pattern. Think about the lines of the pattern and whether the fabric you’ve chosen will match with that. For example, this fabric wouldn’t work for anything full or gathered, but it works amazingly for something fitted, with structure.

These back seams are perfectly straight when this is hanging on a hanger; there is slightly
too much fabric in the upper back for my body & so they curve out when worn. Sigh.

I made very few alterations to the Tania. Jalie’s patterns are always very well drafted. Because I’m only 5’2”, I did shorten it slightly above the angled seams, and shortened the sleeve length by a couple of inches. I also increased the bicep of the sleeve by 1.5” because my fabric doesn’t have much give and I often find Jalie sleeves narrow for my body normally anyhow.

I made a few cosmetic changes too: to accent those angled seams I inserted some satin piping that I also found in the upholstery department! It took a little extra time and hand basting to ensure that the points matched up at the seams but it was worth it. Because this drapery fabric tends to fray easily, I also took the time to bind all the seams with seam binding tape. This was the lengthiest part of the process! So much pinning and careful sewing. And I finished the edges of my facing with some bias binding for a tidy and attractive edge.

Other than those changes, this was a quick sew, perfect for the enthusiastic beginner on up. This pattern has potential for many different versions. When I make it again, I’ll probably use a knit, and one change I’ll make is to make the body one size smaller for a snugger fit. After wearing for a bit, I find that there is a lot of volume in the lower back for my body so will just take it in a little at the centre back seam to adjust for that too. A great pattern and a wonderful, high quality fabric with a print that I love make this into a hit for me!

Fabricville Project: Purple Dot McCalls 7834

For my most recent dress for the Fabricville Bloggers Project, I chose this very sweet McCalls 7834, a Laura Ashley design. I had my eye on View B (the blue one in the middle) as the most likely to suit me.

I had also seen this amazing fabric in the Fabricville online store -- it's purple, it is polka dotted, and there is text in those dots! It's everything I love! Plus it's a nice weight of quilting cotton, with a tiny bit of stretch to it; I really like using quilting cotton for clothing, despite any snobbishness in the garment sewing world... you just have to select the right pattern for it.

In any case, I received these two things and got right to work. I was sidelined for a bit by my bout of flu the week before last, but finished it this week and just had to wear it immediately, despite the chilly & very windy weather ;)

I really love how it turned out. The fabric has a nice weight to it, not too heavy but not too thin either. It holds the shape of the skirt really well, with the gathers at the waist and in the lower ruffle. I did alter the skirt quite a bit with the properties of the fabric in mind: I reduced the width of the top ruffle by about an inch on each end of both front and back panels to reduce excess gathers. And the bottom ruffle was supposed to be made of *three* panels -- I immediately chose to reduce that to two panels, with two inches added on to each end. That way the amount of gathering would be more balanced, and more wearable in this stiffer fabric. In a challis or chiffon, the gathering indicated in the pattern would work well.

I had to increase the bicep in the sleeve by about an inch as well, and decided after I tried it on to leave the sleeves at a longer length, as I like the effect. And the collar was straightforward, with a nice shape.

I also decided to make my own covered buttons for this dress. I didn't want to waste any of this fabulous fabric! Plus I didn't have any buttons that seemed to work well with this dress, so when I remembered that I'd picked up a covered button set at the thrift store, and they were the right size, it was my immediate choice to use them. I read somewhere that to make really nice covered buttons you should add some padding between the fabric & the button form, so I put a layer of felt in between and it gives them a nice roundness.

I was in such a hurry to wear this that I didn't get all the loose threads picked off!

This is rated as an "easy" pattern, and it really is pretty easy! It slips on over the head -- there is an elastic casing in the back waist to gather it up a little but still allow for expansion. Thus the waist is not fully fitted, so if you prefer a very close fitting waist this is probably not the pattern for you. But it's a comfortable fit, and I think the shape is nice enough as it is.

I, of course, added pockets -- why would you have a gathered skirt without them? I used my standard side seam pocket pattern and sewed it in with the top of the pocket even with the top of the skirt. When you do this, just remember to gather the skirt first, leaving the pocket free, and then pin the pocket down over the gathers prior to attaching to the waist seam, or you'll have some weirdly uneven gathers in a front skirt! And I was very pleased with the blind hem on this dress - I finally figured out how to use my blind hem foot properly and it looks so nice - in fact you can hardly see the hem stitches :)

The fabric really appealed to me for the text within the circles. When I received the fabric I realized the text was from a news story -- you can see Obama, Situation, Haiti, Emergency, firefighters, & more in it -- but I'll just pretend that it's found poetry ;) Thank goodness it doesn't say "Trump" anywhere, or I'd have sent it right back.

This was a really fun dress to make, pretty straightforward, with good instructions, and lots of variations available in the pattern. I found that everything went together well, even the collar, and the proportions are nicely balanced. The only thing missing is pockets ;) 

 And I just love this fabric! Perfect to wear in the library. Another text based dress for my collection!

Vogue 9329: My First Marcy Tilton

Here I am, finally, with a finished project! I made my first ever Marcy Tilton pattern, Vogue 9329, which is rated "easy". And it is. I chose this pattern as my latest project for the Fabricville bloggers network. Upon seeing this wonderful cotton lycra knit print in the Fabricville online shop, I knew I had to make something that would highlight the scribble print -- as a sewing librarian, I have a real weakness for any kind of alphabet/text based print. I have a few in my stash that haven't been used yet as well!

Since this recent Vogue pattern was a Marcy Tilton, which I've always been interested in, but it also isn't too wacky or out there in terms of construction or effect, which I've always been hesitant about, I went for it. The simple lines of the dress plus the cute swingy hem really appealed to me -- and that easy rating didn't hurt either, considering my recent sewjo levels.

I received the fabric and pattern very quickly, but was too busy to get going on it right away. After a couple of weeks I finally got the time to sit down and attack this project, and ended up making it all this weekend, from cutting to wearing.

And of course my photo location had to be the children's library stacks at work. Where else would I highlight such a literary print? Thanks again to cooperative coworkers who don't mind taking a few snaps on a break!

On to construction notes: this fabric is a medium weight cotton lycra knit - it has a great hand, not too thin and clingy, not too stiff and thick either. It holds the shape of this dress well but also swings with the pattern lines. It was also really easy to handle while sewing: I just used a medium-weight ballpoint needle and poly thread, as usual.

Even though it's a knit, it uses an interfaced (knit interfacing) neckline facing which is then topstitched at an inch below the neckline. This fabric just soaked up the navy thread I was using, and I really can't see any of the topstitching either at the neckline, sleeve bands or pockets unless I am looking very closely indeed. It is really a wonderful finish and my neckline sits much more smoothly than if I had used a knit neckband - I can never get those things right.

I made a large, which fit my lower half well, but was a bit baggy around the bust area. I took in an arc of 3/4" at the underarm, narrowing out to nothing halfway down the sleeve and just above the pocket. That was all I needed to get a snugger and more comfortable fit.

The pocket construction was really interesting, too, just one piece topstitched to the front piece and only sewn into the side seam of the back piece. I'm sure it's a common technique but I haven't done it before and really like it. The other interesting bit was the hem. Because it is a handkerchief like hem with side slits I was worried they might reveal a little too much of my very short legs, so I didn't shorten the skirt as I usually do with everything. I measured and the regular front hem would land just at the bottom of my kneecap so I left it, though the pattern design as shown on the cover is much shorter. The problem with being so short, though, (I'm barely 5'2") is that the length of my leg from hip to knee is quite small, and so side slits that might be nice on a person with a lot more leg can be a bit more revealing than I'm comfortable with since I have so few inches to play with! So if I do shorten this in future I may also reduce the side slit height just a little at the same time.

There are narrow sleeve bands and an offset side seam on the back which offer opportunities for print blocking, as shown in the cover images. This time I just used all one and love the fit and the comfort of this dress. But now I wonder how useful this pattern might be to use up some larger knit scraps in the stash! There could be ways to play with the neckline and pockets to print block a bit more as well.

In any case, I really enjoyed making this easy dress - it helped me get back into the swing of sewing and have a finished project to show for it. The quality of this fabric was a joy to work with, and as always, thanks to Fabricville for the chance to sew along for the blogger network.