Weekend Review: Sewing Basics for Every Body

 

Sewing Basics for Every Body / Wendy Ward
London: CICO, c2020
159 p.

This is the latest addition to the books by Wendy Ward in my collection. I picked it up a while ago, and have been looking through it although I haven't yet made anything from this set of patterns. The concept of the book is intriguing -- there are 5 basic patterns, with 4 variations each, and each pattern is non-gender-specific. The measurement guide in the opening of the book has a "chest" measurement rather than a bust measurement, and also includes a page on making a full bust adjustment if you need one. 

The top patterns are rather loose fitting so this may work for most readers. The measurements for the included patterns run from a 32"-49 3/4" chest and 34"-51 1/2" hip. Models throughout the book are both genders and a couple different sizes and ages. 

The five patterns included are:

• Felix Sweatshirt
• Harper Pants
• Rowan Shirt
• Kim Jumpsuit
• Dylan Coat

All of them are on trend and have enough variations to create a fairly large everyday wardrobe. I have no interest in making a jumpsuit, but the other items are more appealing to me. I think I'm most likely to make the Rowan Shirt, a button down with nice collar options, and a dress length extension too. 

The opening section of the book covers basic sewing info -- darts, waistbands, pleats, collars, seam finishes, etc. But there's also a page on how to print on your fabric; she uses her own printed fabric in some of the projects, which makes it seem simple and a fun idea to try. As with all her other titles, there is a lot of information in this, and the book is well organized and thorough.

All the patterns are traceable from the inserted pattern sheets in the back. These sheets are pretty crammed full so if you're not already used to tracing off Burda patterns, say, you might want to take a little extra time to go over which lines you'll be tracing before you start. If you're used to magazine tracing you should be good!

You can find out a lot more about this book and its contents at Wendy Ward's blog, including a good look at all the patterns and variations.

I'm intrigued by this book and think it's a great addition to the sewing world. Now to get the Rowan traced! 

Weekend Review: Sewing With Knitted Fabrics

A Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics / Wendy Ward
London: CICO, c2018
128 p.

I picked up this one recently -- I've read her other books and found them quite well done, so was very interested to see what this one would be like. 

I bought it for the patterns, but have found that they are almost just a bonus element to this book -- the meat of it, for me, is the extensive information about sewing with knits. The first 37 pages cover techniques of all kinds -- from identifying fabrics and the right/wrong sides, to choosing the right knit for a project, to construction advice (seams, needles, stitches, all with charts to help out). She goes over pattern prep and fabric prep, from washing to cutting, to gathering and pressing. There are detailed instructions about elastic insertion and more unusual design details she uses, like shirring in a block. 

photo Wendy Ward

Then come all the patterns. There are 6 designs -- t-shirt, trousers, tank, lounge pant, cardigan and skirt -- and then multiple variations of each one, which I guess brings it up to the 20 patterns noted on the cover. They are quite basic patterns, not a lot of extra fuss about them. There is a nice detail of shirring on the tee that elevates it a little, though. If you are into casual knit clothing this will be a great choice for you. I'm not much for tees or lounge pants so would probably make the cardigan -- a nice shape to it and many lengths to choose from -- or the dress from the combo of tee and skirt. The Longshaw Skirt is the most unusual design, with side drapes that form pockets. I'm not sure this short pear shaped person could carry it off, but it's a cool look. 

photo Wendy Ward

The pattern sheets are all in the back with each pattern in a different colour to be traced off. The size range is from a 31.5" bust/34.75" hip to a 47.75" bust/51" hip. Each project includes a chart with actual size and finished garment size, and a cutting plan so you know what to cut for the variation you've chosen. There is a lot of helpful information within each project plan as well, so this truly is a beginner's guide. It would be a great resource for someone just starting out working with knits -- I learned a lot, even having sewn with knits for a while (although they are never my favourite fabric). Definitely worth picking up, especially if the casual aesthetic is your preference. 

Weekend Review: Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking

The Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking / Wendy Ward
London: David & Charles, c2014.
126 p.

I heard about this book somewhere, I don't remember from whom, so checked in my library system to see if I could take a look. I was lucky enough to find both this one and her next in the interlibrary loans system, so ordered them, and have been having a lot of fun looking through and tracing patterns.

This is a pretty good beginner's book. It has 6 projects -- 2 skirts, t-shirt, dress, jacket, and pants. Four of them are knit, the others are woven. Each pattern is described and styled, and ideas for customizations and additions are shared for each one -- things like adding collars, ruffles, doing some colour blocking and so on. There are lots of variations suggested, and fun techniques shared.

There are pattern sheets all in the back to be traced; I did trace off the shirt and the dress, and I must say that the pattern sheets are almost worse than Burda! The patterns each have different colour lines but they are all quite similar, and there is such overlaying that it took a bit of study before I knew what I was doing.

The only drawback to this pretty book with modern styles is that the patterns are limited in size. As noted on the author's website:

"the patterns are printed full-scale in 5 sizes which cover the following range: bust 84-101cm (33-40″), waist 68-85cm (27-33.5″), hips 92-109cm (36-43″). Three of the patterns are for stretch fabrics so aren’t very fitted, the other three patterns are for woven fabrics and two of them are fairly fitted."

I traced the largest size of pattern for myself, and will have to see how the fit is when I get a project done. I do like the ideas for customizing, though, and noted down a couple of ideas to try. The book is well laid out, broken out into three sections - projects, techniques, and customizations - and has bright, clear, stylish photos all throughout. If you are in the size range here, I do recommend taking a look. You could make a pretty solid wardrobe out of the patterns in this book, especially if you like knits.

If you want more info about this book, including some photos of the interior, and the author's commentary, check out Wendy Ward's post that she shared when this book was first published.