Hot Pink Upcycled 90s Dress!

This delightful project was done just in time for a 3 day return of summer temperatures here - perfect for cotton dresses 🙂 It's made from a 100% cotton IKEA duvet cover which I bought at the thrift store this summer, just because of the intense colour that I noticed from an aisle away.

When I got it home I realized I would have to be very careful with print placement! There are a series of fairly closely packed circles all over it. I looked through my stash for something with princess seams so I could slice up the motifs & came up with Simplicity 9601, a 1996 shirtdress pattern. I think it worked re: motifs but it also has a great fit, the cut-on sleeve isn't too revealing in the underarm area, but it also doesn't restrict movement at all. I really like it! I think I may use this one again. 

I had to cut the length somewhere between their long and short to get the perfect longer skirt look for me. Of course I added some side seam pockets as well. I did shorten it an whole inch above the waist, and I cut the shoulders at 14 and the rest at 16, giving myself a smidge extra at the hips. The only thing I would change if I make it again is to take a little sway back adjustment to deal with a bit of extra fabric at my lower back. Otherwise I love the fit and feel of this - the sleeve is great, the V isn't too low, and it's comfy.

And I was thrilled that the perfect buttons were in my button box - I wasn't sure what to use with this fabric until I saw these. I bought them at my local Fabricland some time ago with another project in mind, but am so glad I never used them because they are just right for this fabric! The only issue I had sewing this dress was that the bright fabric made me see spots if I didn't look up to rest my eyes often enough. It's so nice to have a problem free sew once in a while!

Warm & Cozy Sewing for the Season

I was inspired to sew up a Warm & Cozy project for the fall, thanks to the PatternReview September contest of the same name. (And you can now vote for my project here, if you are a PR member!)

I had picked out a pattern that I wanted to make (Simplicity 2289, by Patty Reed) but hadn't found the right fabric in the stash. Then I went to a craft swap at my library, and came home with 3 pieces of fabric -- one of them this teal poly knit that I had just enough of to make this snuggly tunic!

So I decided that this project could be made in a week, and got busy with it. There were previous reviews at PR, which was good as there are some sizing things to look out for with this pattern. It's clearly really oversize, intended for a fabric that can drape a bit. But the neckline and arms are quite closely fitted in comparison to the rest of the pattern. I usually cut a 14 or 16 at the shoulders and grade out to an 18 in many patterns, but in this one I just cut a Med (14/16) all through. There is a lot of ease in the body. 

I sewed up the under-sleeve seam with a 3/8" allowance rather than 5/8" -- this was suggested by a previous maker at PR, and I found that it worked perfectly. The sleeves fit closely but are not tight. And the rest of it falls from the shoulder, essentially. There are 2 large patch pockets, which are great, and proportionately right for this top. The only thing I may change is to shorten it by another inch or so -- I feel that I didn't get the short sewist measurements just right and it's a bit long. But I do kind of like that I can snug my knees up under it when I'm sitting and reading ;) 

I don't usually use polyester fabrics anymore, but this one was from a swap, and the colour and texture were just great. So I gave it a go. It's a bit staticky (poly...) but it is nice and cozy! Just those few sizing things to watch for if you make this one also. 

Floral Set for Fabricville

My latest project for the Fabricville blog is a little different for me - instead of a dress, I made a two piece matching outfit! Now I have separates that I can wear together for the dress feeling, or break apart to wear in other combos. 

I saw this floral rayon online at Fabricville, but the online image was a bit deceiving -- it looked like it was all floral stripes, but when I received it, the stripes ran along either selvedge edge with the centre more of an open floral. If I would have looked more closely at all the images, I could have seen this ahead of time - but I didn't.  Fortunately the print and colours are very cohesive, but it did mean that I had to make some decisions about how to lay out my pattern and how to use the print effectively. I didn't want the wide band of stripes running horizontally at the bottom of the blouse so I held the fabric up to me and asked for some opinions and finally decided that the stripes would run vertically down the right side of the outfit. I usually tend to put decorative elements on the left so it surprised me that this just looked better to have the stripe feature on the right! 

This is a rayon voile, and it's very lightweight and shifty. It is super soft and smooth, and the colours are so wonderful bright and deep against the dark navy background. But it was tricky to cut since it is so slippery and light. I got it cut fairly well, but I am glad that the busy print hides any mild mismatches! 

The blouse, Butterick 6731, was not a complicated project. And I only made a few minor changes. I shortened the body by 1/2", but did not shorten the sleeves at all. I raised the point of the V-neck as I thought it would fall a little low on me, and I'm glad I did. I also narrowed the centre of the neckline and the centre back by 1/4" each. The biggest changes were with the back darts - I found them extremely long so pinned them in to test it out, as I did not think this fabric would appreciate any stitch unpicking. I ended up shortening the upper point by one inch and raising the lower points by 4 inches - I wanted to leave more room across my butt ;)  I then shifted the dart centre to just under halfway between, a touch closer to the lower point. That pulled in the excess across my back but left lots of movement across the hips. Because of this, I also omitted the side zip. I basted the side seam and tried it on to see if it would go on without a zip and it was very easy to do as long as I had the front ties untied. All in all, it took some fiddling but I really love it. It fits nicely and is a super soft and comfortable fabric to wear. 

I added a lightly gathered skirt, using a pattern from my stash, Simplicity 1542 (a pattern I actually bought for the jackets). I thought this skirt had the right shape to go with the blouse. I had to alter this as well; first to add some length to it (3.5") and secondly, recutting the waistband as it is designed to sit 1.5" below the natural waist. I prefer my skirts at my natural waist so altered it to fit at that spot rather than below.

I added a side seam pocket to the right side of the skirt as well - the left has the zip so I didn't bother fussing around with that. I'm right handed so the right pocket is the main one I use anyhow! I was grumbling about the wobbliness of the fabric while cutting and sewing, but I love how it turned out and think this will be a very wearable set. 

Red Ponte Dress with a Twist

The PatternReview Sewing Bee is underway once again! The first round challenge was set as "Knit Dress with Twist". Since dresses are my most common project I knew this one was for me. 

I puzzled a bit over what twist to add to my dress -- should it be a physical one? A conceptual one? I came up with a number of ideas and sketched them out but they felt very complicated. And I wanted to only make something I could wear, no stunt sewing for me this time around. 

Finally I thought of an idea that would look nice and be wearable. I had some burgundy red ponte in my stash that I've been wanting to use for a while now, and some scraps of black ponte from a recent Burda dress. They came together with the simple silhouette of Cynthia Rowley Simplicity 2054 to make this dress. This was a perfect pattern to use as there were no bust darts or extra seams to worry about.

To create a "twist" for this project, I inserted a strip of black ponte into the front pattern piece. This meant that I traced off the front pattern piece and split it into 3 pieces, remembering to add seam allowance to all the newly created seams. I made the insert off-centre (one edge was centre line) and at a 3" finished width, and added my twist feature to the insert. The twist is made with strips of the burgundy ponte, simply twisted once around at one end, and stitched down. The funny thing is that they are kind of like a mobius twist - I discovered that they can change the twist direction without my input. 

The other changes I made were to add pockets, using a cotton broadcloth. Using a woven for pocket bags helps to reduce stretching in the pocket area, I find. I also added 1.5" to the hem-- and I am quite short. This is a shorter dress as designed but I wanted it at knee length. I'm not much for short skirts! 

I really like the effect of the colour blocking in this dress, and it definitely wasn't one I was expecting to have in my closet prior to the Sewing Bee! This dress was enough to put me through to Round 2 of the Sewing Bee...and the challenge is Collars. And that's what I'm focusing on this week. We'll see how it goes!

A Warm Weather Yellow Jacket

This is one yellow jacket that I am not annoyed by! I used most of the remaining cotton sheet left over after my recent Simplicity 9115 makes to whip up this cute little bolero jacket from an 80s pattern. 

This Butterick 4969Butterick 4969 is from the late 80s by my best guess. I bought it for this jacket pattern; it's unlikely I will make a sundress. 

It was a fairly easy project -- front & back with collar & facings. I neatly finished the seams & facing edges since they are visible on the inside. 

The interesting foldback collar is a collar band connected to the facings & front pieces.

Then it was just on to hemming! The pattern suggests a blind hem & I did think it would look nicer with the clean edges of this little jacket. So I got out my blind hem foot & hemmed both the bottom & sleeve hems. I had to unpick the first bit as I made a bit of a mess until I got back into the rhythm of this foot.

I really like the look & the fit of this little piece. It goes well with my recent Burda dress & I am sure that other items in my wardrobe will match up too. That's pretty much the end of my big yellow sheet now! 

Simplicity 9115: Tunic View

This week I'm returning with Simplicity 9115, but a different view! This is the matching tunic to go with the skirt I made first, also from this same upcycled sheet. 

Close up so you can see the interesting weave

This was a bit fussier to make than the skirt; there are princess seams, a slit in the front left seam, sleeve facings and a back zip to fit in. However, it's not that hard at all, just the sizing bits were the most time consuming. 

I took 2" out of the length (I am only barely 5'2" after all) and cut the neckline & bust at 16, grading out to 18 at the hips. I lowered the top of the slit in the front seam by 1" to have more coverage since my torso is short -- this is basically the same construction as a kick pleat in a skirt, so there is an overlap of fabric, but still. 

I didn't really change anything else about it. I used the short sleeve view and made the hem a bit narrower to preserve the length I liked (just a 1/2" hem rather than 1 1/4").

Fortunately I found the perfect matching zip in my stash. It was a vintage zip in 'cornflower' yellow, perfect for this top. It called for a 9" zip; this was 12" but that was good enough, there is lots of length in this back seam so I didn't bother going to the trouble of shortening the zip. I almost got the subtle lines of the square print matched up exactly, they are just a hair off. But it's so subtle I wasn't going to try again - this fabric doesn't like needle holes so I didn't want to overwork it. 

I worked away at this over a few nights, doing a bit each night, and found that it was pretty clear sailing. This will obviously have the matching skirt I made but also looks great with a denim skirt. I'm thinking I'll need to make some loose summer trousers or culottes now too! I feel like I've got good value from this pattern so far :) 

Sheet To Simplicity 9115

I have been working on an outfit based on Simplicity 9115 - the whole outfit worn by the model on the front on the envelope. And I'm using a great piece of fabric; a thrifted 100% cotton sheet that I bought because the colour and the weave were irresistible. 

So far I have finished the skirt. This appealed to me because it's a quick and easy pull on skirt, with an elasticated waist that has a flat front and large "poche Italienne", my favourite kind of pocket.

This cotton is crisp but not too stiff, it still has some drape and it gathers well. That's important for a skirt with an elastic waist! This skirt also has a small walking slit in the left seam; I reduced the height of it by an inch since my legs are so short, and found it just right. 

I found this a very easy project - it went together well, all notches matched and it was straightforward straight seam sewing. I loved the way the casing is just bigger than the 1" elastic for the waistband. It was easy to install and makes a nice neat waist. 

This skirt will fit perfectly into my wardrobe; I've already tried it on with four tops I already own and it matches them all. And when I finish the tunic from this pattern, I'll have even more to wear with it! I really love it with this grey Sorbetto that I embroidered, though - the yellows are a perfect match. 

I'm really happy with the fit and comfort of this easy make, one more element in my 2022 Blue and Yellow sewing plan. 

Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge: Simplicity 2344 by Khaliah Ali

 

February was Black History Month and one of the sewing things I love about the month is the Black History Month Pattern Designers challenge. I wrote about this challenge at the beginning of February but just squeaked in my project by the end of the month after all -- I posted it on IG the very last day of the month. 

Even though I bought two new patterns this month with big plans, I ended up using a Khaliah Ali pattern in my stash, Simplicity 2344. 

It's a nice wardrobe pattern with lots of options. I made the tee, as I like the silhouette a lot. It comes with different cup size options and just has a few details like the gathered front neckline and the sleeve that make it a step above a basic tee. 

I really love it. I used an old knit from my stash -- I love the print but was never sure what to do with it. It was the perfect choice for this top. The pattern was a dream to work with. The neckband is amazing; it went in perfectly the first try and sits super smoothly, no gaping or lumps to be found. The little bit of front gathering is just the right amount to give a nice look to the design, as well. 

I cut a 14 at the shoulder, grading out to 16 at bust and 18 at hip -- this is a regular adjustment that I make on many things, and it worked out well here too. I like the way this fits closely but not tightly. My changes to the pattern were just to shorten the top slightly above the waist seam, and to shorten the sleeves by 2.5" (I have short arms!) I also changed the order of construction so that I could sew in the sleeves flat. This worked well and I was able to finish this one fairly quickly! I think this is one I could make again - it's going to get a lot of wear. 

The two patterns that I bought but haven't made up yet are from two different Indie Black designers. I picked up the Temi Top/Dress by Sewphilia, and the Nikki Blazer by Style Sew Me. They are still on my to-sew list, especially the blazer as it really fits in with my wardrobe plans currently.  Lots more to explore!

Make Nine / Use Nine 2022

It's time for a 2022 Make Nine! Even though I only made 4 of the items on last year's Make Nine list, and used 3 of 9 fabrics, I love making these loose plans every January. Planning is half the fun. As always, I consider these as current ideas, but if I change my mind & don't make them it's no big deal.  No pressure!

I really enjoyed making this plan though. It came together quickly, as I am basing it on my wardrobe theme that I developed in the fall. There are jackets, blouses, and fitted dresses, all in the Bold Playful Power Suit theme I'm focusing on now. 

I used the My Body Model croquis for this process; I enjoy seeing how patterns will look on my body and matching them up with one another as well. I tried to choose patterns that I've had on a mental list for a while, and ones that are matched up with fabrics from my stash. It's a combo Make Nine/Use Nine this year! 

After sketching these all out I tested the whole set together and think that it works well as a plan. I have a mix of Big 4, Indie and vintage patterns here. Below they are matched up with the fabrics I've chosen - there are only two that I'm not fully committed to the combo for, but the others are all a definite go.

1. New Look 6525, View A, in a colourful poly knit I picked up last fall. 

2. New Look 6598 in a linen-rayon blend. You can't really tell but this black fabric has a bit of shimmer to it. 

3. Simplicity 8014, View C/D, in a cotton print I bought from Fabricville online last year and have been dithering over the right project ever since. I think this minimal seamed shirt dress is it.

4. Perth Top/Dress by Carolyn & Cassie. Not sure if I'll make this as a top or dress. If a top, I'll use this scrap rayon from my stash that would look cute with the next pattern.

5. Vogue 8612. This is a pattern from 1993 that I thrifted a while back. The short jacket is perfect for some cobalt wool I bought from the online thrift shop, Our Social Fabric, in Vancouver.

6. Bianca Bolero/Shrug by Sinclair Patterns, in a floral lace knit. 

7. Butterick 3978. Another thrifted pattern, this is one that I'm not sure I should make in this pink silk noil or use a yellow cotton also in my stash. Hmmmm. 

8. See & Sew 5766. A thrifted pattern with a cool little jacket that I want to make in this giant floral home dec canvas. 

9. Butterick 6488, View A. This cobalt rayon will be perfect for this front ruffle blouse that I'd better make while it's still on trend. 

Anyhow, that's my Make/Use Nine for this year. I'm not counting the projects I already have underway, which include a green skirt to match my recent jacket and a short Burda jacket to match my checkerboard skirt from last year. Once those two are done I'll start on these Make Nine projects! 

1989: Christie Brinkley's Surf Club!

This week I started a new dress from a 1989 pattern (Simplicity 9111, a Christie Brinkley 'Surf Club' pattern) and some thrifted fabric from my stash. This large print blue & white fabric in my stash was 36" wide and I had just over 3 yards, just enough to squeeze the main pieces on. I'd thought about using a rayon, but found it just didn't have enough body.

Because of the narrow width of this blue and white print, I had to cut the facings from a solid blue linen, and the pocket bags from a beige cotton voile so that they wouldn't show through the white elements of the main fabric. But that way I could use it!

It's a neat little pattern. While it is just a straight elastic waist dress, it has a shoulder detail of an overlapping button band - very 80s indeed. The dropped shoulder and cuffed sleeve are also nice, though I had to shorten the sleeve piece by 2" to fit it onto my fabric. Good thing I have such short arms anyhow!

Even though this dress is pretty simple, I had quite a few difficulties with it. I put that down to my level of distraction in this strange situation we all find ourselves in. It's hard to concentrate, even on things I love.

I put the two buttonholes at the waist of the front bodice for the drawstring to pop out of later on, then panicked and thought that I'd put them on the back bodice by mistake so unpicked one then realized it was right the first time so put it back on. Good thing I stopped what I was doing for a minute!

And I spent two hours sorting through all my buttons to try to find 6 matching buttons that would be perfect for this dress. I found white ones that I loved but only had four. So for now I am using a mix of these, plus two plain blue ones but will switch them out once things get back to normal and I can find a matching set!

In more making-do news, I used some narrow navy bias tape as my drawstring - I had no cording in the stash, and was thinking about making self-fabric tubes but didn't really want to piece together my wee scraps that I had left. This slightly shiny bias tape was just perfect (vintage so a different weight/texture than modern poly-cotton bias tape packages).

Otherwise I think this is a very cute dress and I love the fabric a lot. It is light and drapy but with some body. It is also a bit see through so I'll have to wear a slip but I'm okay with that. Yay to some more stash reduction!