Red Remnant Skirt

I have been trying to use up my stash as much as possible in my recent sewing. And after I finished the red ponte dress for the Sewing Bee, I found I still had just over a metre of this fabric left. I didn't want to put it back into the stash to languish, so I decided to make a basic knit skirt to use most of it up. 

I chose New Look 6977, as I've made it previously and have worn it quite a bit. I like a good pull-on skirt that you can feel comfy in! I made it with the same addition as the last time I made it -- I added side seam pockets. I used some black broadcloth, and anchored the pocket bags into the waist seam. This time I followed the pattern and just inserted a thinner piece of elastic into the wide waistband rather than stitching one down; that just makes it easier to alter in future. 

I really like the fit of this skirt. It sits comfortably and securely at the waist, but also skims over the hip/butt area fairly well. This fabric is soft and stretchy, and it's a colour that goes with a lot that I have in my wardrobe. I was pleased with the way this went together without much struggle, and now I have one less piece of remnant knit in my stash, and one more useful basic skirt in the closet. This wardrobe pattern has a lot of good options, and I do recommend it if you can find it. 

#SewWrapped in Red

I finished my project for the #SewWrapped Instagram challenge that I mentioned last week -- I did get it in by the deadline on IG, but haven't got around to writing a full review of it, until today! I decided to use New Look 6081, a pattern from the 80s that's been in my stash for a while. I paired it with a stash fabric, a red & white, faintly sparkly stretch lace that I bought ages ago. 

The pattern calls for wovens or a jersey, so I thought that this not too stretchy lace would work for it. It's a fairly simple pattern, with four pieces -- front, back, and two ties. I had to make adjustments with my fabric in mind. First, I had to cut it out on the crossgrain so that the stretch was going around my body and not vertically. Luckily the floral pattern is random, not a vertically oriented one, so that didn't matter. The hems and finishes were actually easier than the pattern required; since this fabric doesn't fray, and I didn't want lumpy double folds I just turned and stitched - the single fold and the stitching don't show much at all. I can only press this fabric very lightly so didn't want to depend on flattening thick seams or hems. 

The other difficult part was the gathering at the bottom edges of the front pieces where the tie attaches on the right, and the buttons are installed to keep the left side connected to the interior. Gathering a stretch lace with so many open areas was difficult. Luckily the right side (the visible one) worked out well; the left side is a bit more of a mess but as it's inside I didn't try to unpick invisible stitches from a lace, I just 'made it work'. I didn't want to use buttons to fasten the underlap as called for in the pattern since I didn't want anything to get tangled up in the open spaces of the lace. I just stitched on three flat snaps - they are attached to the underlay and the right side seam and close up neatly. This fabric is so lightweight and forgiving in motion that I am not worried about snaps coming open here. 

The neckline is just folded in half at the back neck when you put it on, and that makes the rest of the front edges follow suit and gives that lovely swooping gathered look. One long tie is attached in the right side seam and wrapped around your back, while the short one is attached to the right front edge, and when they meet you make a knot and voila, a very quick wrap top. 

I am very pleased with this in this red lace - I can use it as a holiday piece or in this outfit that I'm sharing today. Here it's worn over a red camisole and with my favourite black skirt. Medium dressy, let's say. Over a red dress and with some sparkly jewellry it could really look fancy. I enjoyed this project and now a couple of my other wrap patterns have shifted up the queue a bit! 

Basic Black: a New Look 6598 blouse

I realized as I finished my malachite green suit that I didn't have a good basic black blouse to pair with jackets. Lots of t-shirt styles but I wanted a blouse with collar. So I looked through my pattern stash and came up with this classic New Look 6598 blouse, with a wonderful collar option. 

I recently found a linen blend from my local Fabricland; it's semi-opaque and has a subdued shimmer to it. It was nice to work with although I had to be careful not to overpress. I bought enough for this blouse specifically, and I ended up making View A, the yellow long sleeved one on the cover, although I did change the sleeve length to 3/4, my preferred length. 

It was pretty easy, even with the unusual collar construction -- at least I wasn't familiar with the technique of insetting the back facing into the bottom of the collar facing piece. It turned out nicely, though, with some careful stitching and pressing. 

It's a short blouse, and I might lengthen it a touch if I make it again. As is it will be nice untucked with a blazer, which is what I was making it for. I was lucky to find some very lightweight black buttons of just the right size in my stash; this fabric couldn't sustain anything heavier. Fortunately for me, all my buttonholes went in smoothly, since I don't think unpicking would do this fabric any favours! 

The only thing I'm not entirely happy with is the width of the shoulders. The sleeve caps drop off my shoulders a bit; I think I could take 1/2" in on either side to narrow the shoulders. I don't know why I didn't check this - New Look has such wide shoulders in most of their patterns! Because of this I'm not fully satisfied with the sleeve caps either. My husband suggested taking the sleeves out and altering it -- which I probably should do. But will I? The eternal question.

I do like this blouse, though, and think that the fit and construction of this one will make it one I'll return to. I see a nice summer blouse with the cute notched short sleeves too. And that collar shape is so pleasing. 

Multicoloured Swing Dress from New Look

Well, I've astonished myself by already finishing one of the items on my Make Nine/Use Nine 2022 list! After finishing up my skirt suit, I felt like something quick and easy, so grabbed New Look 6525 and the colourful knit I planned for it, and got busy.

But actually I wasn't that busy, because this is a quick and easy project. I chose View A, the simplest one, with no sleeve, collar or frilled bottom option, so it was super fast. I really just wanted a simple tent dress to wear with all my blazers and cardigans, and since this fabric has such a bright, strong print, I went with a no-fuss silhouette. Also, I wanted the slim fitted sleeves so I could easily layer this up.

It's basically a front, back and sleeve in this view; the only changes I made were length ones so that it wasn't a maxi on me. Also, I decided to add pockets since the silhouette could easily accommodate them. I cut the pocket bags from a lightweight cotton broadcloth to reduce the likelihood of them stretching out, and made sure to mark the waist line on the fabric before removing the pattern pieces so that I had a placement notch for the pocket tops. 

Then the hardest thing was just sewing it nicely. I first used a basic ballpoint needle, but this fabric didn't like it, and stitches were popping and skipping. So I tried a Stretch needle, and it seemed to work much better. I don't have a serger; I just zigzagged at 1.5 width and 3.0 length, as I often do. I did sew the actual shoulder seam with a straight stitch as I didn't want them to stretch much, and also used straight stitch on the pockets. 

I turned under and stitched the sleeve hems, which looked alright, and though I was thinking about a neckband to finish this (an addition to the pattern much recommended on PatternReview), in the end I just did the turn under and stitch on the neckline as well. This was because the sleeve hem had turned out well with very little puckering or visible stitching, thanks to the very busy print, so I thought the neckline would be okay. It actually worked very nicely. I left the bottom unhemmed as I couldn't face a wobbly hem in this very wide skirt. 

So this was a quick, easy and satisfying project. I love this print, and it goes with my new green blazer, with a yellow one in my closet, and with this cozy knit jacket/cardi I thrifted a while back (and plan to copy, it has some cool details). One down, eight to go ;)

Make Nine / Use Nine 2022

It's time for a 2022 Make Nine! Even though I only made 4 of the items on last year's Make Nine list, and used 3 of 9 fabrics, I love making these loose plans every January. Planning is half the fun. As always, I consider these as current ideas, but if I change my mind & don't make them it's no big deal.  No pressure!

I really enjoyed making this plan though. It came together quickly, as I am basing it on my wardrobe theme that I developed in the fall. There are jackets, blouses, and fitted dresses, all in the Bold Playful Power Suit theme I'm focusing on now. 

I used the My Body Model croquis for this process; I enjoy seeing how patterns will look on my body and matching them up with one another as well. I tried to choose patterns that I've had on a mental list for a while, and ones that are matched up with fabrics from my stash. It's a combo Make Nine/Use Nine this year! 

After sketching these all out I tested the whole set together and think that it works well as a plan. I have a mix of Big 4, Indie and vintage patterns here. Below they are matched up with the fabrics I've chosen - there are only two that I'm not fully committed to the combo for, but the others are all a definite go.

1. New Look 6525, View A, in a colourful poly knit I picked up last fall. 

2. New Look 6598 in a linen-rayon blend. You can't really tell but this black fabric has a bit of shimmer to it. 

3. Simplicity 8014, View C/D, in a cotton print I bought from Fabricville online last year and have been dithering over the right project ever since. I think this minimal seamed shirt dress is it.

4. Perth Top/Dress by Carolyn & Cassie. Not sure if I'll make this as a top or dress. If a top, I'll use this scrap rayon from my stash that would look cute with the next pattern.

5. Vogue 8612. This is a pattern from 1993 that I thrifted a while back. The short jacket is perfect for some cobalt wool I bought from the online thrift shop, Our Social Fabric, in Vancouver.

6. Bianca Bolero/Shrug by Sinclair Patterns, in a floral lace knit. 

7. Butterick 3978. Another thrifted pattern, this is one that I'm not sure I should make in this pink silk noil or use a yellow cotton also in my stash. Hmmmm. 

8. See & Sew 5766. A thrifted pattern with a cool little jacket that I want to make in this giant floral home dec canvas. 

9. Butterick 6488, View A. This cobalt rayon will be perfect for this front ruffle blouse that I'd better make while it's still on trend. 

Anyhow, that's my Make/Use Nine for this year. I'm not counting the projects I already have underway, which include a green skirt to match my recent jacket and a short Burda jacket to match my checkerboard skirt from last year. Once those two are done I'll start on these Make Nine projects! 

New Look 6159 in Dior Green

 

For most of December I was working on this green twill blazer, New Look 6159, for the #DesigningInDecember challenge (where you might still be able to vote for your favourites!). And also because it was on my sewing list as part of the Bold Playful Power Suit theme I created this fall.  This jacket was also inspired by the Dior Spring 22 show, all those bright skirt suits! 

I've never made a real blazer before so this was a learning experience. A real learning experience, as it turned into a bit of a comedy of errors with so many things going wrong right from the start. I got the pattern adjustments made and cut this out, then realized that I had somehow lost the second sheet of instructions for the pattern -- I have never lost anything from a pattern before. The instructions that I had stopped at the point where the lining was just starting to be constructed. Fortunately, I had this great book on linings in my stash, which gave me what I needed to get the lining in, alongside another book on tailoring that I'll talk about later on this month. 

I had a bit of difficulty getting the sleeves set in, which I normally don't have trouble with. I think that this fabric is a little sturdier and harder to smoothly gather, which added to the issue. I unpicked both sleeves at least three times before deciding that it was just good enough. When I got to the lining, which nobody will ever see, both sleeves set in perfectly the first time, smoothly gathered and with underarm and shoulder seams matched exactly. Sigh. I did shorten the sleeves slightly, since my arms are short, and I wanted this to remain 3/4 length. They are finished with a nice notched cuff which can be left down or folded up; it's a nice detail. 

This fabric resisted easy pressing as well, and I'm not 100% happy with the darts. They aren't terrible but could be better. The collar though, whew, that was tough! The point where the edges meet in that notch just wouldn't join easily. I unpicked both sides at least 3 times as well, and restitched carefully, turning it to see what it looked like. Finally, again I got to the 'good enough' stage, and just steamed the heck out of the collar at the end. It's actually the bit I'm most pleased with now. 

I chose a confetti print poly lining from my stash - a little more staticky than I like for a lining usually but I've had it a long time and couldn't resist the visual match. As noted that went together beautifully and sewed in with no issues at all. The pattern does include an ease pleat at the centre back so I didn't have to add one in.

It's actually quite a decent pattern; everything matched up as it should and I didn't have to do any extreme fitting. I did my usual length adjustments and then graded from 14 shoulder to 16 bust and 18 hip, quite common for me. The only unusual adjustment was that after shortening it above the bust and again above the waist, I added on 1.5" at the hem because I felt it was a little too cropped for my tastes. And I had to drop the dart points by 2" each. Also, when I tried the outer jacket on prior to adding lining, I thought that a 1/4" shoulder pad would improve the look of the fit, and it did. Good thing I had some in my stash ;) 

I finished it off with black buttons, inspired by Dior. That was another fun moment - I thrifted these perfect buttons and had carefully kept them on my table for this point in the process, and then couldn't find them when the buttonholes were to be put in. I was trying to finish this by deadline, and it was the afternoon of Dec 31 and there I was wasting time, turning everything over trying to figure out where the buttons could have got to. I finally uncovered them (under a stray pattern piece) and thankfully the buttonholes went in like a charm (I got to use my new buttonhole chisel!) and I stitched on these black buttons and still got to take pictures in the outdoor light. Yes, it was warm enough here on Dec. 31 that I could stand in the yard for these photos! 

I'm still planning on making a matching green skirt so that I can really knock off that Dior set. More on that later! For now, I'm relieved that I had the time to really work on this one and get it done despite all the problems I had with it. Hopefully next time I'll know a bit more and it won't take as long to make my next blazer :)

New Look 6340 in sparkling floral rayon

Another of my goals for this month's sewing was New Look 6340 in this lovely rayon I picked up last fall. I think that the white floral against the blue ground makes this fabric almost sparkle.

It was a pretty straightforward pattern. I made View D, in a fabric that almost looks like the pattern cover. It has sleeves, waist ties, and a V neck. There is a centre front and centre back seam.

The only thing I forgot to do was to take my usual 1/2" wedge out of the centre front when I cut it. I'd already put the facing on when I realized that the neck was gaping -- instead of unpicking the facing and redoing the centre front seam on both dress and facing, especially in this fiddly rayon, I just folded over a pleat and attached two buttons to remove the extra length and make it look like a button placket.

I made a few other minor adjustments while cutting out. I raised the pockets by an inch, took 1/2" out of the bodice length, and added an extra 1/2" to the hem. I cut the shoulders at 14 but graded out the sleeve to 16, and ended up cutting the sleeve side seams at 18 just to give myself a little more room in the sleeve. It works but it was a lazy shortcut, and the sleeve would fit a little better across the bicep if I'd done a proper adjustment. It fits well enough to wear comfortably though, so I guess it did what it needed to.

Not too much to say about the construction of this dress. It is fairly basic. The instructions for this pattern are clear and easy to follow, even for a beginner, and everything goes together very simply. It has a nice swing to it, and while I'm not a fan of waist ties generally I think it works here.

You can tie them in the back, as per pattern, or in the front, which I often do since I think it changes the look to a slightly more modern one.

If I wanted to make this as a trapeze dress with no ties at all, I'd shorten by an inch and let it swing. I think it would look quite nice that way as well. I think the V is a little deep for me personally -- if I make this again I'll try one of the round necklines, or raise the V and the facing by at least an inch. (and remember to narrow it!)

This fabric was lovely to work with, a heavier, smooth rayon, with a wonderful drape that really works with this pattern. I picked it up in the moving sales at our local Fabricland last fall, and am glad that I will get some wear out of it this year. It'll be a comfortable and cool summer dress even if I just wear it around the house!

Silver New Look 6469

I've had this soft and squishy silver stretch velour in my stash for ages. So just before the holidays I decided to make this up, and chose New Look 6469, which I picked up earlier this year from PatternReview. 

I made View D, but with a straight hem line like in View C. I like it...but I don't love it. I'm thinking that it's perhaps because the fabric is a bit thick, and yet it's also not quite fitted enough in the bodice/sleeve area. I think this is another one that I'm going to have to redo just a bit to be happy with. And boy, do I hate mending/altering something, even if I've just finished it. Sigh! 

Anyhow. The fabric is very soft and comfy, and the fit is extremely forgiving. It's a comfortable wear -- kind of like wearing a bathrobe around all day. But is it wearable as an actual dress? 

Short answer, yes. I added side seam pockets to it; I can't stand a dress without pockets. I'm always losing my key if I don't have a pocket to put it in. This time I chose a woven to make the pockets -- I didn't think it would look very nice to have stretchy pockets in this stretchy fabric. I had a nice remnant of rose & white toile cotton that looks very pretty as a pocket bag. Usually I'll stabilize the seam that attaches a pocket bag to the side if I'm using stretch fabrics (with twill tape or seam binding or iron-on seam tape, etc).  But this time I just carried that over to the whole pocket. We will see if it stands up to use. So far the pockets sit very nicely and invisibly.

It's quite swishy, which is something I really like. And the fabric is so soft and stretchy that I left out the back opening at the neckline and just sewed the collar on as a band. It's not quite as even as I'd like, but the fabric is so slouchy and reflects the light at different angles that you can't really tell -- it all looks like it is different tones and folds anyhow.

I'm not 100% convinced on this one though. Some suggestions were to wear a bright coloured scarf (I like that) or to shorten it slightly - also a good idea. I'll give it a fix, and a few more wears, and see if it grows on me.

The pattern itself is easy and straightforward; if I use it again, I'll make it with a lighter weight knit. The only flaw is no pockets, but that is easily fixable. This was my last project of 2019, and I'm moving forward with my 2020 plans now. I'll be sharing some of those soon, too. Hope you have lots of ideas for the new year as well!