A Real Green Dress, with Burda May 2023

 

I feel so thrilled by the fact that I have actually made something else on my 2024 MakeNine list! And I even used the fabric I had intended for this pattern :) I cut this Burda 115 from the May 2023 issue from a linen blend that's a bit heavier than I'd recalled. 

This fabric, from the sale table at Fabricland, was just okay -- when I washed it and laid it out, I realized had a few discoloured areas where an almost shadowy bluer dye was splotchy on the surface. Thankfully I was able to cut around most of these bits, but it did mean I used more fabric than technically required, and oh boy does it crease quickly. Lots of pressing ahead!

But the colour, when clear, is wonderful & I really enjoyed making this. The front tucks were what first caught my eye about this pattern & I had fun with that detail. I have been wanting to add some extra elements to some of my projects, and these tucks convinced me to try this pattern. 

There are also integrated pockets in the side panels, which are nice. Pay attention to the pattern pieces when you are cutting this out though, to be sure to connect the pocket bags to the body and cut together, or you'll have to add an extra seam.

I cut it at my usual Burda size of 42/44 but think I could have done 44 all through. It's much closer fitting at the shoulders and bust than the cover image on the magazine makes it seem -- I think the model may be wearing a size larger than her measurements might call for. Or maybe it's just my fabric choice.

Overall I feel like this was a good project, and I'm happy with the results. I don't like how to darts are fitting - they are not pressing firmly and giving a weird crease. But other than wanting to fix up the darts a bit I do like this one. When I adjust the darts I think I'll like it even more! 

Fresco Blouse in Cobalt Blue

I put the Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot onto my MakeNine list in 2023 so it was time to finally make this pretty pattern! With the additional impetus of the #SewAprilBlouse24 challenge on Instagram, I got it finished just before the end of the April -- the evening of the 30th to be exact ;) 

I really like it -- I decided to use this cobalt rayon from my stash as it is very fl9uid. It was the perfect weight for this flowy pattern. This is quite an easy pattern, except for the fabric handling when you are using a slippery rayon challis. There is a front and back piece, a neckline tie, and a shoulder placket for buttons so you can get it over your head. It all went together very nicely; just remember to turn your necktie piece right side out before you sew it on...

It is a soft, roomy, and pretty top. I might shorten it a bit as I am pretty short and I'm not sure I like it ending at the widest part of my hip. However, I am going to try it tucked it with a couple of skirts and see if I like it that way. If not, I think I'll take another inch off the length. 

The shoulder button placket takes 2 small buttons, just enough to give you room to slip it over your head. The tie takes a little finagling to get right, as you want it to fall nicely. But it's a relatively quick make and certainly a comfortable wear. I like the 80s aesthetic of a lot of her designs and this one is easy and fun. Very pleased that I finally made a version of this! 

ITS Palermo: first Make Nine project!

One of the patterns on my 2024 #MakeNine list is the Palermo peasant top, from the Itch to Stitch book Sew Beautiful. When I mentioned last year that I was looking for patterns in this style so I could make my own Vyshyvanka, someone on IG recommended the Palermo. It's definitely in the running! 

I used a small piece of remnant fabric from my stash - it's a suiting fabric but fairly light and not stiff, so I decided to use it. I liked the idea of mixing a peasant blouse with suiting fabric! I had just enough. I cut a size 8 at the neck & shoulders, grading to a 12 at the hip. It's more closely fitted than I was expecting, even though I double checked the sizing, and did choose the right sizes according to my body measurements. I might make it one size up next time, although I like the neckline at size 8. 

It was actually a very quick project! Front, back, sleeve and neckline bias casing. The front has a seam up the middle which is pressed flat and topstitched. Fortunately the stripes worked out for me! The neckline casing is sewn on, elastic inserted and there is also elastic at the sleeve cuffs, though it's a nice gentle gather, not a tight ruffle. I like that as well. 

I added one inch to the length when I cut it out, but didn't alter the sleeve at all, except for making a slightly larger hem for my elastic. I don't think I would want the sleeve or the body any shorter, for me. 

I do like it and think the closer fit works with this fabric. But not 100% convinced that this is the right Vyshyvanka base, so will continue trying out a few more options before committing to embroidery. 

Make Nine / Use Nine 2024

I'm putting together a Make Nine/Use Nine grid for 2024 -- even though I have never completed a Make Nine yet! But I enjoy the planning and it helps to think about what you might want to sew in the months ahead. 

Last year I ended making 3/9 of the patterns I'd picked: 

The Antonia Dress by PatternDivision
The Afternoon Blouse by Jennifer Lauren
McCalls 8024

Three seems to be on average how many things I make from a big plan like this. I'm still intending to work on a couple more from previous Make Nine plans, too. Last year I said I still wanted to complete the Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc that I'd put on my 2021 list -- and I did it!

Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. This year I found it hard to decide on 9. I know I have less sewing time and am trying to prioritize things that will fit into my wardrobe plans while still also being fun things I'm excited about. 

But this plan is intended to keep these projects top of mind, not act as a hard and fast rule that I must make all of them.

And so, starting fresh with a new 9x9 grid, here are my hopes and plans for 2024 projects: 

1. New Look 6679 - probably the long sleeved view but I like both views a lot

2. Burda 115-05-2023 - this was one of their most popular patterns of 2023, and I meant to make it in 2023!

3. Burda 10 -03-2021 - I really like the lines of this and am finally going to make it after thinking about it since this issue came out

4. Itch to Stitch Palermo - this is a pattern from the Itch to Stitch book "Sew Beautiful". I want to test to see if I will use it for my own Vyshyvanka (Ukrainian embroidered blouse) 

5. Burda 105-10-2021 - I like the extra ruffle on this blouse and hope I can make it work.

6. Burda 6354  - I plan to make this in a colour blocked version, the view with the shorter ruffled sleeve

7. Closet Core Jasika Blazer - as noted in my sewing goals for the year, I want to finish the course for this pattern and make a great version for myself!

8. Style Sew Me Nikki Blazer - I bought this pattern last year and would love to try it out, I love the relaxed cardigan style of this blazer

9. McCalls 7730 - I was looking for a cropped jacket with very few style lines specifically for my oversize print, shown below. I hope this is it!

I'm also hoping to combine this plan with my Use Nine and make the following match-ups. The only one I'm not really sure about is the Nikki Blazer fabric - all the others are fairly solid choices.

Hoping to beat my record of 3/9 this year!

More (and Theoretical) Make Nines

IF I were going to make even more sewing plans, I have enough that I want to make to fill up multiple MakeNine grids. But I don't want to overschedule myself with things to make, I like to go with the flow of inspiration when it comes to my sewing. Nevertheless, these plans are awfully entertaining to put together, so I'm just making a couple more of these grids for fun.

IF I had decided to make a sewing plan just with my Burda magazine TBS (to be sewn) projects or from my stack of vintage patterns, they might have looked like this! 

From l to r, and top to bottom, here are my what-if Burda plans:

1. 104/03/2021 - dress

2. 102/09/2022 - sweater

3. 112/01/2022 - cropped blazer

4. 120/11/2020 - dress

5. 106/09/2022 - vest

6. 119/01/2022 - dress

7. 114/01/2022 - dress

8. 117/12/2022 - skirt

9. 116/09/2019 - blouse

And as for vintage/retro patterns, I have a fair number! This year, for some reason, blouses are catching my eye. My lists are usually all dresses but there's a mix of tops in this potential plan. 

Some Blouses

Some Dresses

And the Blazer from this one!

How about you? Do you make multiple plans just for the fun of it? I hope I can get at least one item made from all my real and potential Make Nine grids this year. But as always... we will see how I feel as the year goes on :) 

2023 Make Nine / Use Nine

I'm putting together a Make Nine/Use Nine grid for 2023, even though I have never completed a Make Nine yet! I do enjoy the planning so I'm at it again. 

Last year I ended making 3/9 of the patterns I'd picked: New Look 6525, New Look 6598 and Vogue 8612. 

Not too high of a ratio, but it did help to have them written out like this. Still, a fourth is cut out and ready to stitch (the Perth Top by Carolyn & Cassie) and I'm still planning on working on a couple more. I'd like to get the Bianca Shrug by Sinclair Patterns finished, and still want to complete the Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc that I'd put on my 2021 list! 

Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. This year I found it hard to decide on 9 -- I ended up picking 9 items I just want to make, not attempting to make a wardrobe out of them! They are all things that I have fabric for as well. 

This is just to keep them top of mind, not a hard and fast rule that I must make all of them.

And so, starting fresh with a new 9x9 grid, here are my hopes and plans for 2023 projects: 

1. Antonia Dress by Pattern Division 

   I really like the simple lines of this one; I'm looking for the perfect shift dress and this might be it.

2. Butterick 6326

   I like the high waisted straight skirt view & think it will be a great basic to go with all the colourful tops I am planning 

3. Afternoon Blouse by Jennifer Lauren

    I have had this pattern for AGES and it is such a sweet silhouette. I'm going to try the blouse, and maybe the dress as another shift attempt.

4. McCalls 8024

   I love the slouchy dolman style here - it feels so 80s. I've got to try this!

5. Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot

    I love the style of this one, I had to buy this pattern from a small Montreal patternmaker as soon as it was released, so now it's time to make one! 

6. Simplicity 1284 

    I like the style of this one and think that maybe I have a fabric match, but maybe not...

7. Butterick 5938

    I have had this one on my radar for ages! I also have the perfect fabric for it.

8. Butterick 6127

    I like this style a lot -- great work wear. And I have some magenta houndstooth to use since that's apparently the hot colour now 😉

9. Butterick 6356 

    This oversize blazer pattern from 1993 is just what I'm looking for now! Will have to create a lining.

And here they are matched up with stash fabric:

Let's see if I can hit more than 3/9 this year ;)

Multicoloured Swing Dress from New Look

Well, I've astonished myself by already finishing one of the items on my Make Nine/Use Nine 2022 list! After finishing up my skirt suit, I felt like something quick and easy, so grabbed New Look 6525 and the colourful knit I planned for it, and got busy.

But actually I wasn't that busy, because this is a quick and easy project. I chose View A, the simplest one, with no sleeve, collar or frilled bottom option, so it was super fast. I really just wanted a simple tent dress to wear with all my blazers and cardigans, and since this fabric has such a bright, strong print, I went with a no-fuss silhouette. Also, I wanted the slim fitted sleeves so I could easily layer this up.

It's basically a front, back and sleeve in this view; the only changes I made were length ones so that it wasn't a maxi on me. Also, I decided to add pockets since the silhouette could easily accommodate them. I cut the pocket bags from a lightweight cotton broadcloth to reduce the likelihood of them stretching out, and made sure to mark the waist line on the fabric before removing the pattern pieces so that I had a placement notch for the pocket tops. 

Then the hardest thing was just sewing it nicely. I first used a basic ballpoint needle, but this fabric didn't like it, and stitches were popping and skipping. So I tried a Stretch needle, and it seemed to work much better. I don't have a serger; I just zigzagged at 1.5 width and 3.0 length, as I often do. I did sew the actual shoulder seam with a straight stitch as I didn't want them to stretch much, and also used straight stitch on the pockets. 

I turned under and stitched the sleeve hems, which looked alright, and though I was thinking about a neckband to finish this (an addition to the pattern much recommended on PatternReview), in the end I just did the turn under and stitch on the neckline as well. This was because the sleeve hem had turned out well with very little puckering or visible stitching, thanks to the very busy print, so I thought the neckline would be okay. It actually worked very nicely. I left the bottom unhemmed as I couldn't face a wobbly hem in this very wide skirt. 

So this was a quick, easy and satisfying project. I love this print, and it goes with my new green blazer, with a yellow one in my closet, and with this cozy knit jacket/cardi I thrifted a while back (and plan to copy, it has some cool details). One down, eight to go ;)

Make Nine / Use Nine 2022

It's time for a 2022 Make Nine! Even though I only made 4 of the items on last year's Make Nine list, and used 3 of 9 fabrics, I love making these loose plans every January. Planning is half the fun. As always, I consider these as current ideas, but if I change my mind & don't make them it's no big deal.  No pressure!

I really enjoyed making this plan though. It came together quickly, as I am basing it on my wardrobe theme that I developed in the fall. There are jackets, blouses, and fitted dresses, all in the Bold Playful Power Suit theme I'm focusing on now. 

I used the My Body Model croquis for this process; I enjoy seeing how patterns will look on my body and matching them up with one another as well. I tried to choose patterns that I've had on a mental list for a while, and ones that are matched up with fabrics from my stash. It's a combo Make Nine/Use Nine this year! 

After sketching these all out I tested the whole set together and think that it works well as a plan. I have a mix of Big 4, Indie and vintage patterns here. Below they are matched up with the fabrics I've chosen - there are only two that I'm not fully committed to the combo for, but the others are all a definite go.

1. New Look 6525, View A, in a colourful poly knit I picked up last fall. 

2. New Look 6598 in a linen-rayon blend. You can't really tell but this black fabric has a bit of shimmer to it. 

3. Simplicity 8014, View C/D, in a cotton print I bought from Fabricville online last year and have been dithering over the right project ever since. I think this minimal seamed shirt dress is it.

4. Perth Top/Dress by Carolyn & Cassie. Not sure if I'll make this as a top or dress. If a top, I'll use this scrap rayon from my stash that would look cute with the next pattern.

5. Vogue 8612. This is a pattern from 1993 that I thrifted a while back. The short jacket is perfect for some cobalt wool I bought from the online thrift shop, Our Social Fabric, in Vancouver.

6. Bianca Bolero/Shrug by Sinclair Patterns, in a floral lace knit. 

7. Butterick 3978. Another thrifted pattern, this is one that I'm not sure I should make in this pink silk noil or use a yellow cotton also in my stash. Hmmmm. 

8. See & Sew 5766. A thrifted pattern with a cool little jacket that I want to make in this giant floral home dec canvas. 

9. Butterick 6488, View A. This cobalt rayon will be perfect for this front ruffle blouse that I'd better make while it's still on trend. 

Anyhow, that's my Make/Use Nine for this year. I'm not counting the projects I already have underway, which include a green skirt to match my recent jacket and a short Burda jacket to match my checkerboard skirt from last year. Once those two are done I'll start on these Make Nine projects! 

Make Nine / Use Nine 2021

 It's the beginning of a new year, and time for a new sewing plan! I made a #20in20 plan for last year, but am not making a 21in21 for this year -- continuing that trajectory could just get ridiculous ;) 

Last year I ended making 5/10 of the patterns I'd picked, and using 4/10 of the fabrics. Not too bad, it did help to have them written out like this. 

I'm moving back to the basic #MakeNine this year, and adding in a #UseNine as well. Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. 

Anyhow, my list for 2021 of nine great patterns from my extensive stash that I'd like to make this year are as follows:

1. Montana Midi Dress by Style Arc

This is a simple dress that is just the style I like wearing in summer. I have tons of lightweight cotton and some linen that might all work with this one.

2. Melrose Dress & Top by Itch to Stitch

Another perfectly simple silhouette for an easier make -- and Itch to Stitch is always reliable with drafting and fit, so I know that I'll like this one. Even has a boxy top view as well!

3. New Look 6159

Skirt suits are appealing to me right now, and I think this pattern is just what I'm looking for. I'm planning on a classic matchy matchy outfit here. 

4. Butterick 6655

I like the short sleeve, short length view -- this is essentially a well-fitted shift dress with a faux button placket stitched on. I think if I could get this fitted well it could serve as the basis for many variations.

5. Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc

I like the look of this one, if I can get the fitting right -- petite-ing a dress with all the detail in the hem area can be a bit tricky but I'm willing to give it a go.

6. Bento Tee by Liesl & Co.

I love the silhouette and the cool pockets and I saw someone on Instagram make a dress version which is also tempting. I've liked the patterns I've tried from this company previously so this is next up.

7. Fringe Dress by Chalk & Notch

This one was on my list for 2020 but I didn't get to it. I still really want to make it so I'm carrying it forward! 

8. Simplicity 1542

Another great pick for a blazer -- this one has 3 great views, plus a flippy skirt. I like all 3 versions of the jacket, just have to choose one to try out this year.

9. Ivy Pinafore by Jennifer Lauren

Another item from last year that I didn't get to but am carrying forward, mostly because I want to wear it while jumpers are still in fashion, plus, I have a great wide-wale blue corduroy I want to use for this. 

Next up, the 9 fabrics I want to use this year -- some a few years old, some quite recent. This may be matched with some of the patterns above, or they may not. It all depends what I am feeling! 

L to R: checkered cotton canvas (lightweight), reddish wool blend houndstooth (thrifted),
wool blend b&w houndstooth with faint gold sparkle

L to R: crinkle polycotton floral, gorgeous tropical print rayon,
vintage poly blend faille (thrifted)

L to R: rayon abstract alphabet print, rayon knit, poly blend knit with faint houndstoothy vibe

There are also a couple of alphabet prints that I'd put on my list for 2020 that I haven't gotten to yet but really want to make up this year. Text based print, houndstooth and dark florals -- all my favourites for this year! Plus green, I'm really loving it right now. 

So that's my plan for this year. Let's see how long it is before I'm distracted and veer off this path ;) I also have at least 10 Burda magazine patterns I'd like to make, not to mention my vintage/retro stash... oh for more time! 

With all these plans it will be interesting to see what my stash looks like by the end of the year. Have you made sewing plans this year or are you planning to go with the flow?