Floral Summer Zsalya

I just made my third version of the Zsalya pattern from Kate and Rose. I think this is a repeat record for me -- making 3 versions of any pattern -- and each of them is quite different.

I started with a little black dress, then made a long-sleeved flannel winter version, and now have come up with a light cotton summer version.

Looking a little washed out... and anxious to escape mosquitoes!

I'm really pleased with how this one turned out. One of the best things about remaking a pattern is that you already have all the fitting adjustments made -- it's just lay it out and cut. Nice for a change :) I had a very subdued floral print sheet that I thought would work nicely for this pattern, and I also had some piping that matched the red tones in the print perfectly. Thus was born my summer version.

I used the short sleeve option this time, and chose to use the "clean" finish for the yoke rather than the "quick and dirty" option -- both are detailed clearly in the pattern instructions and both work just fine, but on this one I thought that any extra bulk at the seams might show through the lightweight fabric, so chose the clean finish.

 Left: the yoke from the inside: clean finish on this version, the Q&D on the purple version

Right: yoke from the outside: you'll notice the clean finish has topstitching, the Q&D does not

I added piping to the neckline, easy since the yoke (front and back) is fully faced. Then as I was about to add piping to the sleeves I had an idea. Instead of adding it at the sleeve edge, I added it to the facing strip, which I sewed to the inside and turned out to the outside, stitching it down along the line of piping. I really like the banded effect it's given this blouse.

This sleeve edging is so cute

It's a comfortable top, and quite easy to put together (especially on the third go-round!) I really love this pattern. The Monthly Stitch has just posted a great interview with the pattern designer, Kati of Kate&Rose, in which I was pleased to find out that the Zsalya is one of her own favourites too :)

I like how the gathers are echoed front and back

This is one of the three tops I made this month in an effort to use up some of my stash. I was moderately successful, considering that I still bought more fabric this month than I used. How does that happen??

In any case, I love my new Zsalya, and I'm sure it's not the last one I'll make. Easy to make and to wear, and with a pretty, folksy feel. Love it.

October's "Fire Opal" Dress

I've fallen behind in my "Make A Garment A Month" projects -- August and September have both disappeared with their respective makes still sitting in pieces on the "to do" pile...

But I jumped back in this month, with Sarah Liz's wonderful October theme, Opal. I love opals, and since they're my birthstone I can wear them without incurring any bad luck :) I have a beautiful sweater knit that I wanted to use for this month, as it's all blue and shiny white and opal-like...but instead, I couldn't resist making this new Vogue pattern from a red ponte knit that I've had in the stash  for a while.

So I'm calling it October's Fire Opal dress!

I used Vogue 9022, a pattern that I ordered pretty quickly after it was released. I like the relaxed feel of it, and the cute pockets. I thought it would be a great work dress.

Once again, without even consciously realizing it, I've made a copy of the pattern cover. My dress is a similar solid red, although I could definitely see this one in a colour-blocked version. It also states that this can be made knit or woven; since I chose a knit, I left out the walking vent in the back as well as the keyhole opening at the back neck. Just stitched up that centre seam top to bottom -- I left in the seam, however, to assist with some shaping.

Back view -- what was I doing? No idea

The making of it was easy. It's just basic straight seams, no set in sleeves, and some hems & facing. I did add in an extra inch to each side below the waist by grading out, since my pattern was a medium -- and while I'm generally medium on top, I'm large on bottom. 

The only unusual bit is the pocket construction. The side panel is in two lengths, and you stitch together the bottom seam of the pocket and then fold that length over to form the pocket. Despite there being "fold lines" marked, I would strongly suggest that after folding these pieces you carefully measure both side panels to be sure that they are even -- you don't want to have to unpick one side after sewing everything and readjust it. Don't ask me how I know that.

Red dress outside on a beautiful fall day

There is no stitching to hold down the tops of the pockets -- I suppose you could top stitch them before continuing with construction if you wanted that look. As is, it is a loose, soft look that I quite like. 

Overall I am pleased with this dress. The knit has enough weight that it doesn't cling, and the lines of the pocket seam and of the neck facing don't show through. I was going to switch the neck facing to a simple turned under neckline hem, but decided against it as I wanted a clean finish, and was worried about puckering at the neckline if I just stitched it down. You could probably also finish it with a neck binding if you preferred.

Feels good to be getting back into some fall sewing with this bright and comfortable dress.

August's "Make a Garment a Month" Pick

After going crazy with sewing last month, it's a relief to pick just one...or maybe two...things for my "Make a Garment a Month" regular challenge. August's theme is to do a little stash busting, so I've chosen a dress that uses a little bit more fabric than a simple skirt or top.

The first is Simplicity 2177 -- I am going to make this one because my best friend just sent me a copy of this pattern that she picked up at a sale, just because. So of course I am going to make it! Also, I have the PERFECT fabric for it, a striped sheet that I bought at the Goodwill a month or two ago. The second? The green & grey colourway will also allow me to use the remainder of the grey fabric from my July skirt-making to make the matching jacket. At least that's the plan at present!

A Top By Any Other Name

This month, for the Make A Garment a Month challenge, I decided to make a new knit tunic. I chose a pattern that I discovered on Craftsy, by a company called Modkid -- I didn't know about this company before because it is almost entirely cute kids' patterns, which I don't need and generally don't pay any attention to!

But there was an appealing adult pattern, called the Melanie Misses Top and Dress. How could I possibly resist a pattern with my name on it, literally? I didn't. I bought it and downloaded it, knowing exactly the piece of knit in the stash that I'd love to use for it.

It all went together like a dream once I got started, finally. The fabric I wanted to use was perfect, and I had just enough -- it was a knit panel print, and I just squeezed on the main body of the pattern -- so close that the inside of the hem hides the edges of the print where I was a tiny bit over the line ;) Finally a use for that odd panel! The sides are in my current favourite colour, mustardy yellow, and a very soft knit. The gathered  pocket on the side panels really sold this one to me -- I love pockets, and was willing to give this one a try despite the fact that those slouchy pockets would sit right on my widest parts. I think it turned out fine, though, it doesn't draw any undue attention to the area, and they are really cute.

The pdf is really well made; you can just tape together the pages for the pieces you need, which aren't numerous anyway. The instructions are clear, with lots of diagrams for visual assistance, too. I had to take out a few inches for length, or even the tunic would have been a dress...but I am only 5'2-ish so that is nothing new. Just FYI if you are also short! The hem swings out but not too much -- allowing it to skim the lower half but not swamp it.

The construction is pretty straightforward, too; the only element I might change if I make it again is to bind the neck rather than turning it under and stitching down as per the instructions. On this make it worked well, and unless I made a contrast binding from the yellow I didn't have a choice as I had no more of the main fabric left at all. I like the plain edge on the neck with this print, and it makes for a quick finish at the end.

The only minor change I made was to do a double row of hem stitching on the pocket panels, since the two layers are folded up together and I wanted to be sure they would be sturdy enough to hold when I tossed things into them.

Front view, simple lines.

Back view. Is this lattice print useful
for  garden camouflage?

Pencil This In

This month's garment of choice for my merry MAGAM make was this nifty fabric, made into -- what else -- a pencil skirt! After much deliberation among my many skirt patterns, I used New Look 6128; I liked that it had great pockets and belt loops too, on View A, my choice. (the bottom pink one).

I am really pleased at how it turned out. I learned a lot from this project: I'd never made or added belt loops before; the pocket, though a basic design, was new to me; and because it was a quilting cotton that was fairly see-throughish, I also lined it with white cotton broadcloth. Thankfully I've done a few lapped zippers by now so that wasn't new or difficult -- as a matter of fact I just bought a proper zipper foot so it was actually much easier than previously!

Here's how I wore it today:

I found this a straightforward pattern -- I made a few changes but not really very big ones. I found the sizing pretty good; I cut a test waistband from the broadcloth before starting the 'real' project, and found that I needed to take 1/2 inch in, from the size 16. I kind of wish I'd taken another 1/2 inch but it does fit very comfortably and of course, there are those nice belt loops for a snugger belted look. I cut 16 across the hips, and tapered in for the last 6 inches or so to end up with the hem 1/2 narrower on each side (1/2 on each seam allowance, so both sides had a total of 1 inch narrowed). So really, it's probably a 14 at waist and hem and 16 across the hip area.

I changed the front pleats too -- the way they are drafted, it created a boxy fold right across the middle -- not where I want to add bulk! I think it was mostly because of the fabric choice, as it stood out in folds quite sharply. So I turned them into inverted pleats and pressed out the remaining bulgy effect. It works quite well, I think.

I also lined it, stitching the lining into the waistband seam but leaving it loose around the zip so I could hand stitch it down and give a nice neat look to the finish. I also pressed up the lining with the hem and then hand stitched the hem so that there was no stitching line on the outside. Because of the crispness of the cotton, it took pressing very well, and held its shape nicely while I handstitched, so the hem turned out nicely even -- skirt and lining both laying together smoothly.

I really love it -- it's fun and colourful and very comfortable, and not nearly as wrinkle-prone as I had feared! And because of all the cheery colours in it I can wear it with numerous tops that I already have -- some RTW and some that I've made myself. Here are a few examples!

This was a super fun project, and I know I'm going to get lots of wear out of it this summer.

March Recap of MAGAM Project

This is what I vowed to make in March, for the Make a Garment a Month project:

I was planning on making the dress, adding piping to the neck and sleeve edges, and lining the skirt (oh, and adding pockets of course).

I got all the way to the neck, and tried it on, and realized that I hadn't taken the advice of all the sewist reviewers on Pattern Review -- I'd forgotten to cut the neckline larger. Argh! I was strangulating in it! The thought of unpicking the facing AND the piping, resizing the neckline, recutting the facings and resewing it all was overwhelming. I put it aside for what turned into a couple of weeks.

Meanwhile, I decided to make a nice easy top to recover from this mishap (New Look 6217) Well, that top had tons of neckline issues as well! I finally finished it this weekend (photos to come) and decided that since I'd spent so much time on it I might as well turn to fixing the dress as well. So my March garment will be finished, soonish, once I get those facings recut. Whew! That was the biggest case of sewer's block I've had for a LONG time. Once I finish and post I will also be deciding on a late April MAGAM too. More to come..........

Black and White and Red all over

Just getting this posted by the end of the month...it's my February "Make a Garment a Month" project! I'm going to post even though the only pictures I could get were rather blurry phone shots taken in my front hall. Oh well! I am certainly not going outside today in the -30 wind chill for photos ;)

This Kwik Sew 3658 is super easy, as shown in my last post; I made up a 'muslin' and this dress in just a couple of nights. The first try was useful to get the construction figured out, though that only took a read-through of the clear instructions & illustrations, plus a couple of tries with the fabric, and all was set. But it also showed me that it might be a good idea to cut Medium on top and Large at waist to hem, particularly because I wanted a bit of room left to add in some side seam pockets (which I was able to do, using some stash scraps of a black damask - I wanted a woven fabric for the pockets to minimize any stretching in the side seams)

Nice solid pocket!

Cozy dress!

Side View: not too clingy!

Love it! I'm going to try my blue,
yellow, purple, and green tights too!
Not all at the same time...

The only thing I noticed was that the stitching at the v of the neckline started coming loose -- the neckline is a bit low so that is dangerous...remember to backstitch carefully at that seamline because there is quite a bit of stretch-pressure put on that point while wearing. I'm going to handstitch it up again from the back/inside, about an inch to make it a little more reliable.

Otherwise, this was a really fun project, and the fabric was a perfect choice. It's soft and warm, and this dress is extremely comfortable to wear. The weight of the fabric also made the collar stand up nicely, though I've folded it down a bit in the picture above. I'm pleased with this one.

Green Tee

To test out the Kwik Sew 3658 that is my February sewing goal, I made up View B, the t-shirt, in a medium weight green knit that I had in the stash -- just enough for this view, I think it was a sign ;)

I wanted to test out how the neckline sat on me, as well as the sizing. I cut a medium all through, and discovered that this is a really easy, quick design that looks a little special thanks to the different neckline. I had no problems sewing it up, but found that I'd probably want to grade to a large at the waist/hips when I made the dress -- despite the Kwik Sew pattern sternly warning me: DO NOT GRADE BETWEEN SIZES.

I wore this to work (with a cardigan, as it's still cold here, though I removed it for a good view of the top) and the colour is so cheery! Great news, the dress has benefitted from my test muslin; I'll be posting about that soon, too. I'll easily meet my February MAGAM goals.

Something I found interesting: this pattern states "Designed for stretch knits only with 35% stretch across the grain." Well, I'm still pretty new to knits so don't always know right away what that means in terms of the actual fabric. I've tended to wing it, but have learned that that habit can cause some mighty annoying situations. Thankfully, I recently discovered this great tool to help judge the stretch of a knit. Print yourself one and save yourself the trouble of guessing wrongly (can't imagine who might have done such a thing before...)

MAGAM February Plans

Well, better late than never! For the last little while I was working away at a muslin for a dress that I wanted to make for Pattern Review's Little White Dress contest, but I barely even finished the muslin in the time allotted, so no LWD for me...

Anyhow, I just realized that I never did choose my February garment, so here it is -- I would like to make this Kwik Sew 3658, using a black and white heavy knit. I like the design and the fact that it's a thick knit that is still quite soft and flexible. Also, I think it will be easy to accessorize with lots of different colours.

It's an easy KwikSew, with only three pattern pieces. Let's see if I can get this done before the month is out!

January Tee Times Two

I can hardly believe it myself, but last night I finished sewing my second "fancy" tee that I'd put into the queue for my Make a Garment a Month challenge to myself. I hoped to get at least one done -- but I've made both!

This one is another Vogue, and another flowy design. I used Vogue 8581, and made View C.

I had a lovely teal knit from the sale table that I thought was drapey enough to work for this, and I was right... although it certainly was springy which caused me a few moments while cutting it out, and while stitching. But in the end it all worked out (even with the sudden running out of matching thread halfway through...quick run to the fabric store for thread solved that...but also added two metres of a gorgeous woven print to the stash)

I didn't hand stitch the sleeve bands OR the neck band... the neckline would have been a little bit nicer if I had but then again if anyone is looking that closely at my bodice at work they will get a punch in the nose anyhow ;)

I shortened the sleeves because I have quite short arms, but also because I don't like lots of fabric getting in the way at my wrists -- these are just slightly shorter than full length but the fullness means they avoid the "oops they shrunk" look. At least I think so. Here's a better look at the length.

I really like this one. The colour is really rich, the fit is nice -- loose but not enormous, and the elasticized hem actually sits quite nicely. Oh yes, the other thing I did was to cut the neckline at a size 10 and the rest size 12. I often have problems with necklines being a little too deep and/or gapey -- just my shape and short upper body -- and this fixed that. The neckline sits really well and doesn't gape or droop at all, not even when I'm leaning over. Love that. Anyhow, this was pretty easy and it's a nice bright new top for me.

January Tee Complete!

I've completed my January tee for the Make a Garment a Month Challenge! Well, one of them anyhow.

I started off with Vogue 8514, view C. That gathered back was really irresistible.

I had a very lightweight, soft grey knit, just perfect for this design. I cut it one night, and finished sewing it the next day. It was so simple to cut out and sew together that I felt a little bit like the Grinch making a Santy-Claus suit!

I did change a few things. I had to take 2 1/2 inches out of the length, as it looked more like a nightshirt when I was done -- I forgot to measure before cutting, and I'm quite short so always have to adjust length. I don't know what I was thinking! And because it was a loose fitting top I cut a 12, and thankfully it fit perfectly. 

Front view -- there is no pink tinge to this
shirt, it is my camera once again acting up

Back view - you can see the light weight of this
fabric, it does tend to stick to my jeans a bit

I really like this shirt, it's comfortable and I think a little nicer than something totally plain even if it is just solid grey. One of the reviewers on PR mentioned that there are no instructions for serger -- true, but I don't have a serger so I didn't mind. If you have one, then this would be an even faster project. I also put the facings on at the neckline -- you probably don't need to do that, but I thought I'd follow the pattern, mostly, on the first try. I did sew the sleeve bands on as one instead of hand sewing down the inside. There are limits after all!

The only problems I found were that the sleeve seam (along the middle of the arm as the sleeve is cut on) tends to twist, and I have to straighten it when first putting it on or after doing anything really active. Also, perhaps because of the weight of the extra fabric at the back, it does pull toward the back a little and has to be readjusted every now and again. But those aren't annoying enough to change my opinion that this is a nice shirt that I am really enjoying!

I wore it out for the first time today, when I went to a local community workshop on re-purposing clothes, organized by the energetic owner of my favourite local consignment shop, Covet Consign & Resale. We learned how to make slippers out of old sweaters -- we traced our feet on the body of the sweater to make the soles, and cut off the sleeves at an angle to make the upper foot and leg. I picked an old red-hooded sweatshirt and ended up with these:

Two cozy feet

Side view -- see the original wrist ribbing at the top?

Please ignore my atrocious hand sewing on this ;)

I had a lot of fun at this community sewing event -- my online sewing community encouraged me to make this t-shirt, and the in-person one today helped me make my new red slippers. What fun!

January MAGAM plans

It took me a little longer to decide what to choose for my January Make a Garment a Month pattern. Should I make another dress, or something different? I looked at a lot of patterns, but in the end I decided that I needed something easy this month, and had just the patterns & fabric in my stash. Despite my recently stated sewing goals for 2014, I'm going to start slow this year with something easy -- still thinking about the bigger challenges I want to take on later :)

I don't like plain t-shirts, and don't really have very many. But I do like long sleeved comfy tops so thought I'd use some pieces of soft knit jersey in my stash to make up some more interesting tees. I have these two Very Easy Vogue patterns and these two colours of knit:

Vogue 8581 and Vogue 8514

My goal is to make at least one of them this month. I feel in need of something simple and comfy. I'm planning to make the blue fabric into the green view, and the grey fabric into the white view.

Made It! Kwik Sew 4013

Just squeaking in with this one: I've finished my December project for the Make a Garment a Month challenge. Well, just about finished -- I just have to hem it but I did want to share it here while we're still in December!

I had to take photos of the finished dress in my tiny front hall, as it is cloudy, snowy and minus 22 outside so no heading out there coatless today! In any case, here it is, Kwik Sew 4013.

I decided to colour block it, with a black solid and a black floral knit, both rather lightweight and soft. I made the shorter version with the colour blocking of the long one. I must say, from the line drawings I expected the middle panel to be a bit narrower, but when looking closely at the finished dress on the cover of the pattern, I realize that mine turned out just as the pattern looks. I'd make the elastic gathering shorter on the coloured panels if I made it again, to create more of an hourglass illusion. And don't forget, I'll be hemming it up by at least an inch ;)

Front view

Back View

Of course, as usual I added side seam pockets. Love them. I also took the waist up by an inch, but probably could have used another half inch. This pattern was very straight forward. Lots of steps and pieces, but all easily done. I really liked the instructions for attaching the shoulders and facings, it made a lot of sense and looks very nice completed. I did understitch the back facing though, as it kept wanting to pop up. That wasn't indicated in the pattern but I prefer it as a finish.

Clear instructions on the pattern itself

All layers pinned together

Such a tidy finish!

The only problem I had with this pattern was one I've had with another Kwik Sew -- these fit large. I measured myself for this one to avoid that issue coming up again, but I had to take in 1 1/2" at each side waist when I was done nevertheless. (perhaps that's why the centre panel seems so much wider than the side ones...) I cut medium on top and large on bottom -- next time I'll do small/medium, if I use fabric with the same level of stretch. This wasn't excessively stretchy fabric, just a regular knit like a tshirt.

Something I really like about this pattern is how logically it's constructed. Each step follows on with no confusing or complicated bits. The pattern instructions are basic and very clear. I also really like the neckline, how the bodice crosses over itself high enough up that you don't feel like you need to wear an undergarment for modesty's sake. It lies nicely and doesn't gape at all. If I can get the minor fitting issues adjusted I might make this again. It is really comfortable and not difficult to make, but I think it has enough detail to look a little different.

One other new thing for me -- this pattern calls for a blind hem. I discovered my blind hem for knits stitch on my machine, which I have never used before. I intend to use it for the hemline, but so far I've done the sleeves with the blind hem, and I quite like it!

From the outside

And looking at the inside

So, just finished this one in time for this year, and learned quite a bit while making it. Not sure why I kept putting this one off -- possibly the busy days of December -- but glad I finished it and hope that I'll actually wear it.....

Here's to many more new sewing adventures in 2014!

MGM Choice for December

I'm really enjoying the push to complete some of my projects that SarahLiz Sew Style's "Make a Garment a Month" challenge is giving me. I've been sorting through some of my patterns and fabrics and trying to decide which I should choose for December. I'd love to choose 2 or 3 items that I really want to make -- but, it is December after all, and I know that I just won't have time for them all.

So in the name of sanity, I have selected one garment that I vow I will make from start to finish this month. I've chosen another dress:  Kwik Sew 4013

I am going to make View A, but use the colour blocking option from View B. I have had the black floral knit in my stash for quite a while, and want to jump on that while it is still a bit on trend ;)

I'm hoping that it will work out nicely... and that I will be able to finish it up amidst all the sewing-for-others that I'm working on...

Make A Garment A Month: November Butterick

This is the second dress I chose to make for November's MGM challenge. It's Butterick 5923, a pattern that caught my eye because of the unusual cowl neckline with collar.

I loved the fabric that I used for this one, a polyester that was a bit heavy and falls nicely. Sewing this dress was actually quite easy. A number of steps but nothing difficult. I kind of got into the zone with this one, and enjoyed just working away on the many steps, one at a time, as they were all working out the way they were supposed to. Whew. But this meant that I forgot all about taking any "in progress" photos. I just kept sewing along...

This pattern has a stay, keeping the very drapey neck from resulting in any wardrobe malfunctions. I love it. I also love the collar but wish I had maybe put heavier interfacing in. It's okay but the right side needs pressing again to get it *just* right. Now I wish I'd done the stay in a contrast fabric, but... next time!

This one was straightforward to sew, measurements were pretty much right without much adjustment at all (just shortened one inch in the bodice), and steps were not complicated. The roll-up sleeves had tabs and buttons but I knew I would be wearing them permanently rolled so didn't bother making buttonholes, I simply sewed the button down on top of the tab when everything was done. Found the perfect buttons in my stash, too!

much better look at the fabric in this pic

I like the way it fits, although the pattern envelope stops at medium, so that is what this is all through. I'll add an inch to the skirt next go round as I find it just a touch too constricting when moving about actively. This fabric has absolutely zero give though, so perhaps with a more forgiving bit of stretch this would be fine. Of course, I added side seam pockets. They are strictly for keys or wee little things though, as you can see from my finished photo that having hands in pockets rather ruins the line of the dress! You can't quite tell from the photo, but it's hemmed to just above my knee. I think that is the perfect length, as I didn't want too much fabric to overwhelm me. The dress has an elastic waistband and a sash -- I think an obi style belt would look nice with it too.

I really like this one. Received a couple of compliments when I wore it today, which is always nice too. Though the fluorescent lighting in my office isn't exactly flattering, I wanted to get a quick snap to share the finished item!