Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge: Simplicity 2344 by Khaliah Ali

 

February was Black History Month and one of the sewing things I love about the month is the Black History Month Pattern Designers challenge. I wrote about this challenge at the beginning of February but just squeaked in my project by the end of the month after all -- I posted it on IG the very last day of the month. 

Even though I bought two new patterns this month with big plans, I ended up using a Khaliah Ali pattern in my stash, Simplicity 2344. 

It's a nice wardrobe pattern with lots of options. I made the tee, as I like the silhouette a lot. It comes with different cup size options and just has a few details like the gathered front neckline and the sleeve that make it a step above a basic tee. 

I really love it. I used an old knit from my stash -- I love the print but was never sure what to do with it. It was the perfect choice for this top. The pattern was a dream to work with. The neckband is amazing; it went in perfectly the first try and sits super smoothly, no gaping or lumps to be found. The little bit of front gathering is just the right amount to give a nice look to the design, as well. 

I cut a 14 at the shoulder, grading out to 16 at bust and 18 at hip -- this is a regular adjustment that I make on many things, and it worked out well here too. I like the way this fits closely but not tightly. My changes to the pattern were just to shorten the top slightly above the waist seam, and to shorten the sleeves by 2.5" (I have short arms!) I also changed the order of construction so that I could sew in the sleeves flat. This worked well and I was able to finish this one fairly quickly! I think this is one I could make again - it's going to get a lot of wear. 

The two patterns that I bought but haven't made up yet are from two different Indie Black designers. I picked up the Temi Top/Dress by Sewphilia, and the Nikki Blazer by Style Sew Me. They are still on my to-sew list, especially the blazer as it really fits in with my wardrobe plans currently.  Lots more to explore!

#BHMPatternDesigners Challenge: Simplicity 2230 by Khaliah Ali

I love following along with the #BHMPatternDesigners Challenge on Instagram. There are so many neat makes rolling in, and lots on info about new and upcoming black pattern designers. It's so great to see people creating and sharing so many new designs. The organizers of the challenge have the perfect mix between info, rules and relaxed making.

This Khaliah Ali pattern, Simplicity 2230, was my first pick for my #BHMPatternDesigners challenge make this year. I've been wanting to make this top for ages. I was lucky to find this pretty rayon challis in my stash to make it from, and as it happens I was also able to find all the bias tape and elastic I needed in my stash as well. Hurrah!

I really enjoyed making this top once I got to it. I ironed the challis with a bit of Best Press to give it a bit more body to help me cut it out smoothly. I made View B, the florally yellow one in the middle.

It has a centre panel that is gathered with an interior casing, and two side panels - the back is cut in one piece. I used the mid-length sleeve that has an elastic casing as the hem. With this very flowy floral challis, it is kind of hippy-ish. In the best ways!

It was a pretty easy sew overall, despite the challis. The front and back went together smoothly, but you do have to make sure you have all your matching points clearly marked -- the centre panel matches up quite a way down the side panels, since you are then going to sew in a wide neckband piece. Once the front and back are together, the pattern has you sew in the interfaced neckband piece, and then attach the facing to that separately. I imagine you could sew the two together first if you'd prefer.

Now, some of the comments I've seen in reviews of this pattern is that it runs really large, and that the neck facing is huge. Of course that is for the caftan style views, not this one. But I was watching for size and size matching issues, so when I started to pin on the neckband I thought, what the heck? This is way smaller than the blouse! I'm going to have to gather the blouse or take in the front seams, or recut the neckband, or..... Wait. Don't sew when you are tired. I was pinning the smaller inside curve to the outer neckband area. Doh!! Thankfully I realized it before doing anything drastic to my pattern.

So I carefully repinned the correct edge to the blouse and surprise, it was a perfect match. Sewed on the facing, topstitched it down to cover the inner seam, put the sleeve together and finished the elastic hem, and last step, attatched the sleeves. They do not have much gathering at all, so they are just eased in while you're sewing. They are a smooth fit and went in without any issues.

I love this! It's light and flowy, but not overly loose or gapey in the chest. I can lean over safely in it ;) The fabric is a perfect fit for the design, and I think it will match with a lot of things in my current wardrobe as well as some items in my to-be-sewn piles. While it's the only item on my #BHMPatternDesigners list that I finished this month, I really enjoyed making it, and still plan on getting to the other items someday.

Thanks to @OneSewSweet and @SewNaturalDane for hosting this great challenge again this year!

February means #BHMPatternDesigners Challenge!

I participated in the Black History Month Pattern Designers (#BHMPatternDesigners) Challenge on Instagram last year and really enjoyed it! I learned so much from the posts that co-hosts @SewNaturalDane and @MyraLorraine were sharing about black fashion history and personalities, and found lots of new current designers as well.

So when they announced that they are running the #BHMPatternDesigners Challenge again this year, I knew I was in! This year they've added in the extra element that participants should think about their own fashion inspiration when they are making their outfits. Hmmmmm, I'll have to ponder that.

Here's the rules, according to the original Instagram post: 

View this post on Instagram

GET READY...GET READY...GET READY!!! Kicking off tomorrow💃🏾 @onesewsweet and I are so happy to announce the 2nd annual #BHMPatternDesigners challenge. Thank you to all of our sponsors: . @mydailythreadzme @sewnmagazine @bayronhandmade @thanksimadethem @sewmuchfabric @stylesewmepatterns @claire_cochran @laststitch @montoyamayo . We are also EXCITED about our 4 FABULOUS Ambassadors: @Lejanarobpatterns @crystalsewsandstuff @crumpetsteaandsewing @islandsewcialist . PLEASE GOT TO MY HIGHLIGHTS ☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽 to see the various Black Pattern Designers. ***THIS IS NOT AN ALL INCLUSIVE LIST*** . Rules for entry: . 1. YOU MUST MUST MUST tag @onesewsweet and @sewnaturaldane AND use the #BHMPATTERNDESIGNERS in order to have your entry counted. . 2. You can ONLY SEW & POST your item (garments, handbag, knitting item, etc) between February 1st and February 29th. Your entry is due February 29th. . 3. You can ONLY use a Black Pattern Designer. **LET'S HAVE SOME FUN AND GOOD LUCK***

A post shared by Pronounced = Nah-Tea-Duh 😉😉 (@sewnaturaldane) on Jan 31, 2020 at 11:49am PST

Last year I used a Tracy Reese pattern from my stash; this year I'm looking at the variety of Khaliah Ali patterns I also have in my stash and have never made up. These patterns are great value, as many of them are wardrobe patterns. You could make yourself a nice capsule wardrobe using these.

I'm thinking that I'll make the longer sleeved blouse (yellow floral print version) from 2230 in this rayon challis from my stash:

And then maybe try adding the skirt from 2344, either in a neutral black or in a hot magenta from my stash that will pull that tone from the blouse. The gathered neck tee from 2344 is also a great shape, and in a navy print from the stash it might go with my next item too.

And that item is, if I have time, another jumper! View A from 2232 (but in knee length) would be nice in a navy blue suiting that I've had in the stash for a long time. That seems like an awful lot to try to get to, but hey, February has an extra day this year ;)

My real goal is to get the blouse done and we will see how it goes from there. Meanwhile, don't forget to check out the Instagram accounts of both hosts and their ambassadors for lots of great #BHMPatternDesigner Challenge content!