Weekend Review: Basic Black

Basic Black / Sato Watanabe
translated from the Japanese by Leeyong Soo
Tokyo: Tuttle, 2014, c2005.
64 p.

This is another Japanese sewing book written by Sato Watanabe, who has created quite a few by now. This one is almost twenty years old (!) but it's the first time I've been able to see it. You would never know that it was an older book, since the fashions are chic and edgy, and yes, classic too. 

It includes 26 patterns, ranging from jackets/coats to vests, blouses & dresses, and even a skirt. They are all distinct enough to count as unique patterns, and while a silhouette might be basic there are interesting details to each one, like subtle tucks in a tiered skirt, or unexpected darts to add a focus. Plus all the black fabrics have different textures and weights - jacquards, cottons or gauze, wool, lace - lots of variety. Of course you do not have to make your own in black, you might use these patterns and make yourself a rainbow wardrobe! Here are all the patterns inside: 

I found this was a little bit different than many Japanese sewing books, mainly in the fit of the patterns. There is a bit more body awareness and fit in this book, rather than only a loose or boxy aesthetic. With that comes the one con of the book, the sizing. It is of course limited when used by non-Japanese readers. And the sizing is organized by finished measurements, with three levels - Loose, Shaped, and Fitted. And the size chart shows each pattern by its letter, then the finished measurements (ranging from XS-S-M-L). This way you can judge how the fit will work for you, however, I found it visually confusing. I would have to take a bit of time to figure out what I want to make with this one, even though every project looks really great in the book's photos! 

After the first part of the book, which just shows all the patterns, there is a short 'materials' guide, and then for each pattern there is a Sewing Guide which includes the supplies needed, list of sewing steps, a layout plan, and then diagrams of each sewing step. It's very clear and feels like more instruction than some other Japanese sewing books. I was impressed with this one with the one caveat about sizing which is always noted in these translations. I found most of the patterns ones I'd probably make if I had all the sewing time in the world :) 

The book comes with two fold-out pattern sheets in an envelope in the back of the book to trace your pattern pieces off (it's overlaid like Burda patterns are) but if like me you read the book in an online format, you can also download the pattern sheets from the publisher's website. That's a nice touch. Overall an engaging addition to the sewing books by Sato Watanabe that I've read, and one I'll be looking for to add to my collection. 

Weekend Review: Cut Up Couture

 

Cut-Up Couture: Edgy Upcycled Garments to Sew / Koko Yamase
translated from the Japanese by Kyoto Matthews
Loveland, CO: Interweave, 2012,c2009.
88 p.

This is a fun and unusual book. Like the subtitle says, these projects are edgy upcycles, mainly from men's clothing. I enjoyed looking through this book, but these clothes are definitely not my style - I can't see making any of them myself. But younger or edgier sewists would probably love it! 

The book is neatly laid out. There are three sections: Sweatshirts and T-Shirts, Men's (dress) shirts, and Scarves and Neckties. Each section has numerous suggestions for how to reshape and reuse clothing items, and there are a lot of different ideas and techniques, it's not just a repeat of one idea. 

However, many of the projects start with XL menswear to cut up for the tiny Japanese woman. Thus many changes and design adaptations would have to be made if you don't fit into this trajectory. As concepts, though, there are some neat projects in here. 

The skirt on the left upper side of the cover is the same piece as the top on the upper right, for example - it's just how you put it on and button it that changes the look. There are a couple of other convertible pieces included ,which is fun. I felt like the first section, using sweatshirts and tees, was the most successful. The dress shirt items look really messy and suitable only to young people who are experimenting with their look. A couple of the vests made of scarves in the final section were nice and I'd consider them wearable by a wider range of sewists. 

One of my favourite things in the book was a detail in the first project. She took an XL sweatshirt, cut off the sleeves and pleated up the centre front, holding it with a sewn on loop. I liked the folds that resulted, and could see this technique used for a bodice overlay on a fancy dress, for example. 

Although the aesthetic isn't really for me, this is a successful book that does what it says it will. There are lots of large clear images, the instructions for the upcycles have both descriptive steps and sketches to guide readers, and there is a wide variety of options included that readers could then take and use in other ways as well. If you're into upcycling clothing and want some fresh ideas, this might be one you want to take a look at. 

Weekend Review: Joyful Mending

 

Joyful Mending / Noriko Misumi
Tokyo: Tuttle, 2020.
88 p.

This is another mending book, but one with a very Japanese aesthetic. It's charming, quirky, and has a definite slant toward the visible mending end of the spectrum.

It's a short book but quite cleverly put together, with lots of ideas to inspire. The author started out running a "mending consultation booth" in real life and this book is structured around that concept, which is adorable and fun. Each technique features an "advice seeker" at the top of the page, a customer who has a valued item of clothing and needs mending help. The relevant technique is then demonstrated on that item. I think this adds a lot of personality and charm to the book, and shows how these mending interventions really matter to real people. 

The techniques covered include basic darning of square, circular or larger rectangular holes/stains, as well as the use of needle felting to mend woolens. This last technique can be nearly invisible for those who prefer subtlety, or in one case, a variety of colours to add a polka dot flair to a wool scarf. 

There are examples of embroidery to cover stains and embellish further, or basic edge stitching for heavier items like rugs or bags. I found some unique ideas in her use of crocheted mini-pockets or patches to add to the look of an item by covering a stain and adding a useful pocket too! The basic crochet techniques are included in the last part of the book which covers all the necessary embroidery and darning techniques as well. 

She also uses patchwork for coverage, and one neat way is folding a circle or square in half around the edge of a collar, cuff, or hem in the spots that are most likely to wear out, and then covering the patch with some running stitch. It's cute and reinforces those frayed edges. Adding more where they are not strictly necessary can add a more aesthetic effect as well. She even mentions rug hooking techniques as a potential addition to hats or bags if you want a textured look. Lots of ideas, and many, many cute illustrations as well as extensive and clear process photos. 

This book is quite charming but also practical in its inclusion of some more unexpected ways of mending and making do. The inclusion of the stories of both the author and her "advice seekers" adds a lot of personality. Really enjoyable book on this topic. 

Weekend Review: Stylish Party Dresses

Stylish Party Dresses / Yoshiko Tsukiori
trans. from the Japanese by Leeyong Soo
North Clarendon VT: Tuttle, c2015.
96 p.

This is the last of my collection of Japanese pattern books. It's a combination of my favourite things -- dresses, and Yoshiko Tsukiori! I do have a number of her books and find that her aesthetic is really close to mine. So I really enjoyed this book of 26 dress patterns (even if some of them are pretty much variations rather than totally different styles).

 This is a nicely translated book -- it sounds natural, and the sizes have been expanded to more of a Western range than some of the others. Sizes range from 4 - 14, or from a 30 3/4" bust to 40.5" bust, and 34 - 43 hip. It's nearly all dresses, though there is a bolero, blouse, top and collar thrown in for extras too.

These are all very sedate styles in a way. No hugely oversized waifish looks, rather there are some more traditional fitted designs like the one on the cover. There are still loose fitting cocoon-ish styles too, but it feels a little sleeker than some of the other titles. 

I really like Dresses F, L, P, and V, though I mostly like them all -- those are just the ones I'd most likely make soonish. There is even a very cute jumpsuit in there, with a elasticized waist and a bow neckline.

Of all my books this does seem to be the one with the highest concentration of realistic (for me) patterns. There are pull out patterns in the back and more sizes to work with. But you do have to trace a pattern from a mess of overlapping lines and add your own seam allowances -- just like Burda.

Like any other Japanese sewing book, there is a lovely styled spread of all the dresses in the first half of the book and the instructions follow. The model for all the patterns is the same woman, Meri. And the stylish is not outlandish or odd here. All of the photos look like she is wearing something suitable for a nice occasion, as referenced by the subtitle of the book: "26 Easy & Inexpensive Sew-It-Yourself Dresses for that Special Occasion". And the photos are really lovely, featuring some William Morris-ish wallpapers as backdrops.

If I could only keep one of my Japanese sewing books, this would be a top contender. Recommended.

Weekend Review: Shape Shape 2

Shape Shape 2: sewing for Minimalist Style /
Natsuno Hiraiwa
trans. by Atsuko Imanishi
Loveland, CO: Interweave, c2013.
119 p.

This Japanese sewing book is a little different from the others that I own. The sizing runs in 3 sizes, S M & L, which translates out to a 34"-40.5" bust and 36" - 42.5" hip. The pieces are fairly loose-fitting and are made with very few pieces, so sizing might be something you have to watch when trying these out.

There are only 9 clothing patterns and 4 accessory patterns in this book, so a lot fewer than in other books. That said, I would like to make up 7 of the garments and 2 of the accessories so that's a pretty good ratio! 

Many of these designs are clever and easy to make, and they aren't all the oversize dress aesthetic of other Japanese books. There are a couple of jackets, skirts and tops each. And one of the accessories is a flat belt with a hidden pocket. Love that idea - I've added pockets to belts before, myself, but am going to try this technique. 

One of the skirts can be adapted to make itself into harem pants with a couple of buttons near the bottom. I'd be interested to see how this works in reality and if walking is compromised at all with the switch. It's very clever. 

The French pleated blouse is my favourite item, I think --  it's cut in two pieces; the front and back are cut as one and it is then seamed together at the centre back. The shoulder is pleated to create the necessary shaping. It's simple and pretty. 

Overall, I recommend this one if you have an interest in this area. It's different, more streamlined designs, and has a good variety of pieces to try out. I'll have to try something and see if the sizing is easy enough to adjust or not, however! I'm enjoying my trip through my Japanese sewing book shelf and will have one more to share with you before month's end. 

Weekend Review: Stylish Wraps

Stylish Wraps Sewing Book / Yoshiko Tsukiori
trans. from the Japanese by
X: Tuttle, c2017.
80 p.

Another book in my collection of Japanese sewing books, this one is a bit different as it is all focused on outerwear. (Even if a couple of the items can also be made up as a coat dress).

I'm not a huge poncho fan, but there is much more to this book than just a quick cape like the cover image. There are 22 patterns for coats, shawls, shrugs, wraps; all sorts of things you might wear over something else. Even if these poncho style tops are awfully cute.

Most of the designs are pretty simple, which is good, even if there are patterns included in the back of this one. I like Tsukiori's aesthetic, and it's nice that in these Tuttle books they are Westernized enough that there are patterns in the book and often a wider range of sizing. Unfortunately, the range here is limited, between a Japanese 7 & 13, about a 31-37" bust and 34-39" hip.The styles do fall into the oversized style of many of these books, so they could be more adaptable with a little work.

Like all of these books, there is a lovely spread of images to start off, with styled pictures of all the patterns. There are 22 patterns, and a good handful that interest me. I think the one that is most catching my eye right now is a clever convertible jacket/shrug which gathers up to tie at the front to give a much different look than when it's worn loose and open.

Then the second half of the book is the instruction and technique part, with more detail of each make. I think that this one is a great addition to a collection, since the patterns are all quite different from more standard dress/top designs in most of the other books. 

There are some very pretty styles here, but I also think that they are very wearable for people who are not necessarily tiny and cute Japanese women! Many of these seem both straightforward to make and really multipurpose to wear. There are even a couple of 'extras' in this book -- a pattern for a knitted hat, leg warmers, and even a book cover(!) are added in.

I enjoyed the fun feel to this book, and the way that many of these designs could be adaptable to many fabrics and personal style choices. (for example, my fave British sewist and stylish dresser, Marcia Lois Riddington, has used patterns from this book for her own unmistakeable style)

Definitely one to add to the shelf if you like Japanese sewing books!

Weekend Review: I Am Cute Dresses

I Am Cute Dresses / Sato Watanabe
translated by Asako Ohashi
Loveland, CO: Interweave Press, c2011.
120 p.

This week I'm sharing yet another title from my collection of Japanese pattern books. I can't resist these when I find them either 2nd hand or while thrifting. Even if I don't use them, they are so pretty to look at!

This book is by Sato Watanabe, an author I wasn't aware of before finding this book. It's not a Tuttle book, rather it has been published by Interweave. There are a few differences in production choices, primarily that this book has no Westernized pull out patterns in the back. It is more traditional; all of the patterns have schematics that you then use to draw up your own patterns. It's more work to do it this way, for sure -- but the drafting skills are good to learn, and it's really just taking written instructions and measurements and drafting them out into an actual pattern piece. So if you're up for that, there's lots of good stuff here.

But, the sizing in this book is also a big difference from other Japanese sewing books I've read -- all of the schematic drawings are based on an average bust measurement of 35-36", and an average hip measurement of 38-39". There are points marked by a star on the pattern drawings as good points to resize for your body when making up a pattern. This size range reflects the Japanese source of this book; I'm larger than the average that this is working from, but close enough that sizing up isn't too much of a chore, especially since all the patterns are boxy, loose fitting, easy-tailored styles intended to have a "one size fits all" aesthetic. 

Of course, I'm not entirely sure that these kind of loose fit dresses will suit those who are not petite Japanese sewists, but I do find a couple of the patterns charming enough to give it a go. Like most of these books, the 25 designs are shown in photographs with brief descriptions in the beginning of the book, followed by a glossary and sewing tips, which includes an explanation of the sizing protocol, and also has a list of the pattern markings and what they mean on the drawings. This is very helpful as they aren't standard markings -- ie, where to identify the fold of the fabric, where to match up pattern pieces and so on.

And then the dresses are all shown in more detail with the pattern information and instructions in the last half of the book.

While it's a different way to approach a sewing book than the hand-holding beginner sewing books that many Western sewists are used to, I think that an experienced sewist won't have too much trouble. The patterns are intentionally simple, with few fussy shapes or techniques to worry about on the pattern making side. When this was first published in English in 2011, I'm not sure that the oversize look was as popular as it is now (ie: the popularity of the StyleArc Adeline or the Wiksten Shift reveal more appeal in the loose fit for contemporary sewists). So this book might have more currency now than at first.

In any case, I enjoyed looking through this and think that the pattern drafting challenge might be a way for me to up my sewing skills somewhat. I do like a number of the styles so might try it out and see what happens.

but what is with this weird pose on the back?

Weekend Review: Happy Homemade Sew Chic

Happy Homemade Sew Chic / Yoshiko Tsukiori
trans. from the Japanese by Masashi Karasawa
North Clarendon VT: Tuttle, c2013.
64 p.

This week's feature is another book by Yoshiko Tsukiori -- I think she is my favourite so far among all the Japanese pattern books I own. Her style is casual, natural, and just quirky enough for me. 

In this book she shares 20 patterns, most for dresses or tunics, though there are some pants and jackets in here too.

Like her other books, this one has Westernized pattern sheets in the back to trace. The size ranges up to a bust size of 40 1/4" and hip size of 43 3/4". So while it's a limited sizing, it is larger than many other Japanese sewing books. I just squeak into the largest sizes here. The patterns are fairly boxy and geometric, though, so if you have any experience at all with altering patterns, you should be able to adapt them upward to some larger sizes.

As usual, my favourite patterns here are for dresses. All of these on the back cover appeal to me --  although the black one, upper centre, (Dress R) is the one that I'd like to make first. 

Even with that, the lower right is a linen jacket that has kind of caught my eye as well. I might have to make something that -- gasp -- isn't a dress! The reliance on linens, natural cottons and lovely prints is so appealing.

Here's a better view of the jacket

I like this series, and hope to find all of them someday. I just have to find the time to trace all of the appealing designs so I can break out my ditsy prints. I love the solids, but the one below looks so prairie retro. It's funny that there is that similarity.

This reminds me of a prairie apron

Anyhow, I recommend this one for the inspiration, and for the variety of designs in it. Between the pants, skirt, blouse, jacket and many dresses/tunics, you could make yourself an entire wardrobe with just this book. Also, the patterns are basic enough that many variations could be made to shake them up a little, too. 

If you're interested in Japanese sewing books, this one is a good bet to start with. I'm hoping to share my own Dress R before the end of this year! 

Weekend Review: Stylish Dress Book: Wear With Freedom

Stylish Dress Book: Wear With Freedom / Yoshiko Tsukiori;
trans. by Masashi Karasawa
North Clarendon VT: Tuttle, c2008.
80 p.

I'm starting off my fall with a look at some of the Japanese Sewing Books that I have in my collection. I've shared one, on refashioning, earlier this year, but this title in the Stylish Dress Book series is much more of a classic.

I've had this one for a long time; I think it was the first JSB that I ever bought. Yoshiko Tsukiori is my favoured author in this kind of book, she has a sensibility that I like -- dreamy and Japanese hippie-ish, but not so much so that I wouldn't wear any of it. Also the sizing has been adjusted for a Western audience in this English translation (at least partly) and so the sizes run from 6 - 16 (30 - 40" bust). I can fit into the largest sizes.

In this book there are 26 patterns, each named after a letter of the alphabet (the English alphabet -- which makes me curious as to how this book was organized in its original Japanese). Like every book of this kind, the fashion images are all up front, in a series of lovely photos showing off the designs. This is then followed by the list of patterns with diagrams and instructions. There are patterns as well, in an envelope in the back of the book to trace off.

While I wouldn't necessarily style myself in the way these pictures have been styled, there are still some interesting designs and shapes to these dresses and blouses. There is even a cookie recipe included ;) Each design, from A-Z is quite distinct and not just variations on one pattern, so there is a lot of value in this book.

Out of the 26 patterns there are only a couple that I don't like personally, and I have my eye on View E (the cover image) and View V (below) to try out first. I'll report back on the process when I get started!

For charming inspiration and a series of dreamy dresses all made in Liberty of London prints, though, you can't go wrong with this book.

Weekend Review: Sewing with MyLock II

Sewing with MyLock II /  Janome Corp.
probably 1980s, 40 pgs.

I wanted to share this delightful book I picked up on my thrifting travels last week. It's a book of projects for the New Home serger, or as they say in their intro, any three thread serger. I don't have a serger, but I couldn't resist the 80s vibe of this book! There is no date or publication information beyond what is on the back cover. 

But from the projects and the photos, both of clothing and home decor -- lots of pastel ducks -- I think I'm safe in assuming it's from the 80s. 

It caught my eye at the thrift store with the dress on the cover, and the fact that a pattern for this dress is included in the back of the book. It's a knit dress with a low waist and a back tie, but it still feels quite modern and contemporary.

However, one interesting thing about this book is that it was published by the Janome Sewing Machine Co., Tokyo Japan. And printed there as well. And you can tell! It's like an early Japanese sewing book. Just take a look at the sizes included in this knit dress pattern. It's made for tiny women!

But it's very much like the Japanese pattern books that are so popular now in other ways too. All the photos and descriptions of the projects -- dresses, nightwear, home dec -- are all up front. Then it moves into the instructions afterward. And in all of these instructions, you're given schematics to make your own patterns, just like all the other Japanese sewing books I own. 

This dress might be worth working out all those schematics for, though! It's still so pretty. But I'd also have to increase the size.

In any case this was an enjoyable find, lots of fun to look through and be inspired by. Except for the curtains and quilt, urgh. Way too 80s ditsy floral, pastel, puffy quilt styles for me! There is apparently a vol. 1 in the Sewing with My Lock series and maybe someday I'll also come across that one. 

Have you ever tried sewing from an older sewing booklet like this? Or a Japanese sewing book?

Weekend Review: Stylish Remakes

Stylish Remakes / Violette Room
Tokyo: Tuttle, c2015
94 p.

I picked this book up second hand, and am glad I didn't have to pay full price for it: there are probably only two ideas in it that I'd use. 

That's not to say it's not a good book, it is just very much aimed at a young, street savvy demographic. Most of the projects are low-sew, more aimed at fashionable upcyclers than sewists. The 'author', Violette Room, is a Japanese clothing brand, so youthful street style is their focus. The feel of this book reminds me a little of the younger, punk aesthetic of Generation T, another quick & dirty refashioning book.

If you fit into this demographic -- young, small sized -- this might be just the thing for you. The projects are a little different from those in other upcycling books, and there is a fair bit of variety in the ideas themselves. Most of the projects look similar in the photos because of the heavy use of flannel shirts and American printed tees and sweatshirts. What's with all the Americana? But the ideas could be adapted to other kinds of raw materials, to good effect.

The book features a total of 25 ideas categorized into six sections: T-shirts, Flannel Shirts, Borders (apparently striped fabric), College Sweats (sweatshirts), Gabardine Coats, and Bandannas. There are a couple of accessories in there too -- a detachable collar and a drawstring purse. Like most Japanese sewing books, the project images and brief descriptions come first, followed by all the instruction in the back.

In this book, there are no patterns -- there are drafting & remaking instructions. Your project depends on your original materials that you are attempting to upcycle. It's an inspirational book, full of ideas, and then it's up to a reader to make something out of what you have. 

I liked the idea of putting two shirts together to make one sundress, or cutting and reattaching two halves of oversized sweatshirts to make a swing top. There are sure to be a couple of ideas for readers who don't fall into the target market to make use of, at the least. Take a look at CSews and how she made a man's shirt into a cute little blouse, for an example.

This isn't one that I'd consider a must have, but taking a quick look via the library might be an option for you, and could be just that kick of inspiration that you need.