Weekend Review: Gertie's Charmed Sewing Studio

Gertie's Charmed Sewing Studio / Gretchen Hirsch
NY: Abrams, 2024.
208 p.

This is a different kind of book from Gertie - while she's sticking with her love of  vintage clothing, this isn't a book full of patterns and sewing instruction alone. Rather, it's a look over her career and an examination of the patterns she has created (and recreated) in the vintage style. 

There's a lot of history shared in each chapter - Gertie talks about the origins of many of these patterns, which vintage pieces inspired them and shares the social context of the original designers of many of the inspiration pieces. She also shares how and why she decided on that specific pattern as part of her design line. The background of the pattern development is also shared, which is particularly interesting to me - I liked seeing how the idea was turned into reality and some of the challenges or successes with each of the patterns. 

The first 2/3 of the book goes chapter by chapter in this way, featuring the following Charm Patterns:

• The Structured Tropical Dress
• The Rita Blouse
• The Night and Day Dress
• The Lilli Ann-Style Princess Coat
• The Rose Dressing Gown
• The Tropical Mermaid Gown
• The Marilyn Jeans
• The Rose Marie Reid Swimsuit
• The Cummerbund Bubble Dress

And then, to satisfy readers, there are three full-size patterns included, to download and print. The instructions for each are in this book, however, very similarly laid out to her previously published pattern books. These are all vintage influenced womenswear, of course -- you'll find the Madeleine Dress, the Camille Sheath Dress, and the Lillian Jacket. All quite simple in comparison to some of the patterns discussed earlier in the book, since they are just quick patterns for this book. 

I haven't downloaded the patterns yet, as probably only the Lillian Jacket is appealing to me currently. So I can't say whether that process is easy or not, at least not yet. However, as to the book itself, I found it really interesting. The discussion of the setting of each pattern and its nuances both culturally and socially was handled openly, with acknowledgement of "vintage style, not vintage values". Lots of interesting stuff here for both history buffs and sewists! 

Weekend Review: Gertie Sews Vintage Casual

 

Gertie Sews Vintage Casual / Gretchen Hirsch
NY: Abrams, c2014.
224 p.

This is another entry into the sewing series by Gretchen Hirsch, blogger, designer and owner of Charm Patterns. I picked this older book up on sale to add to my sewing book collection, and it's a cute book. Lots of mid-century charm here, and unusually for Gertie, it even includes pants -- not that I will be likely to make them, since I don't usually make pants ;)

This book follows the same structure as her others. It's even bound the same, with coil binding inside a hard cover and lots of bright colours, photos, and vintage sketches too. It opens with a section on sewing casual clothes, particularly instruction on sewing knits, and guidance on pants sewing and general fitting. You'd think casual clothes/sportswear would be simpler to sew than fancy dresses, but really it's not. Lots more techniques to learn and practice here. There's even a section on patternmaking -- adding collars, cuffs, pockets, pleats etc. and changing up necklines and hems, for example. 

(photos via Gertie's blog)

The second part of the book is the patterns. There is a super wide variety in this book. There are 3 tops and a sweater, 2 skirts, 3 dresses, and one basic pant with many variations. Each of these patterns has variations that change them significantly so in all there are about 24 separate looks to make. They are chic and cute designs that fit in with Gertie's retro aesthetic, and the models are varied too, it's not just Gertie this time. 

The sizing runs from 2--16 (or B32/W24/H36 to B46/W38/H50) and seam allowances are included on the patterns. The patterns are all on folded sheets in the back of the book to be traced off. I like how the basic pattern for each is traceable, and then the variations within each chapter show you how to alter and redraw style lines to create new looks. I think that this might make sewists more comfortable with doing this kind of pattern manipulation on other patterns they may own. 

This collection is more everyday wear friendly than her other books, at least for most people. I like the casual dresses since those are often my go-to for everyday. There is a simple knit pencil skirt that I may test out for my first project from this book, since I'm really into the skirt suit look this year. This was enjoyable to look through, and there is also some historical info (and movie recs) in the first half which is really interesting too. I liked this!

Weekend Review: Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book

Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book / Gretchen Hirsch
NY: Abrams, c2016.
236 p.

Another mix-n-match sewing book! These were really popular a few years ago -- all the titles I've reviewed this month are a couple of years old and seemed to appear around the same time.

This one is by Gretchen Hirsch and falls thoroughly into her aesthetic of vintage fashion. It's all dresses (right up my alley) and the mix and match aspect comes from the way that all 23 dresses are designed to work together. She explains that the shapes and the ease of the patterns are all drafted to be able to switch bits around and still have the patterns work together. Honestly, in this book, I like so many of the designs that I imagine switching things around would mean I would take forever over these patterns! 

The back cover provides a good overview of a strapless evening style, a pink fitted day dress, and a casual fit and flare day dress. This shows the range of the styles in this book.

There are a lot of variations in the book, and if you're into the more fitted vintage looks you'll do well. This peplum dress with the large neck bow is quite charming -- I can see this being suitable for work, depending on where you work, or broken into two pieces and the top worn more casually.

This dress, on the other hand, just screams day in the sun. Can you see this one on a picnic, or a vintage-inspired stroll through cafés and shops?

Honestly, though, these two are among my favourites in the book. The plaid one because I just love the fabric and the print matching! And that cute collar. I do like a bottom-of-the-knee hem as well.

And this one because I love the colour, the shape, the neckline, the little bow at the neckline -- well, just everything about it. If I only trace one pattern from this book, this is the one for me. 

It's a very visually inspiring book, as you might have noticed thus far. But it's also pretty full of useful info. The interior pages have charming illustrations, like in Gertie's other books, and there is a lot of really helpful detail given on vintage construction techniques, fabric choices, and so forth in the first half of the book. Honestly, for a newer sewist interested in vintage styles, just this part would be worth buying the book for, even without the great patterns that follow. 

The sizing runs from 2 -16, or 32" to 46" bust and 36" to 50" hip. There are four pattern sheets in the back with all the elements to put together to make the various styles.

Now, I haven't yet made a dress from the book, but have heard that there were some issues with the sizing of the patterns, so do be careful to measure the flat pattern before you start anything. I'll report back when I get one made. But as an engaging book full of 23 different dresses to look at and imagine making, I enjoy this one! 

Dresses are really my wheelhouse so I have a fondness for all three of the dress pattern books I've shared this month. Do you have a favourite? Is there another title that I just must find? Share any tips!