Factory Top in 30s Print

I have had this project in mind for a while! I had this cotton print in my stash and couldn't figure out what to do with it, it's pretty busy. I decided that making something with very simple lines would be the best choice for this one. I have made the Merchant & Mills Factory Dress before, and have also made a top version, so picked this pattern to remake. 

This was quite finicky, trying to get the pattern matched up, especially across the front. I thought I had done it perfectly, but it's a little off. Not enough to redo it, though, as when looking at it, the strong lines of the print carry through well enough to make it okay. 

I added 6.5" to the bottom of the bodice pattern in order to fold under a 3" hem. I added a band to my first top version of this size, and feel that it helps keep the shape and fall of the top more aligned with the deep double layer. I worried about there being some print show through, but thankfully it's not an issue. 

This took a while to put together, despite the pattern being pretty easy. The print was challenging, as I mentioned, but I was also quite busy over the past couple of weeks and didn't want to work on this tired! Fortunately I've finished it and am pleased with the outcome. I also had a set of buttons from the thrift store that I felt would match this print perfectly - so I added them on as decorative elements along the front seam when I was done. I think this is so cute and will enjoy wearing it! 

Factory Dress Top in Green, for the Literary Sewing Circle

 

This week brings my first project for the latest Literary Sewing Circle! I have had this tiny mushroom print cotton for years, and really wanted to make this Factory Dress top view with it, as soon as I started reading Amatka again.

My inspiration is of course the many mushrooms grown in the Amatka factories, to supply their new world with myco-matter for all their needs. Also, as Vanja notes in her first shopping trip, blues and greens were common colours for clothing in Amatka. I added this inspo to the aptly named Factory Dress, and cut a top version. I made the full Factory Dress for the last round of the Literary Sewing Circle, and really love the shape and fit, and have been wanting to make a top ever since. So this is it! 

I cut it at the same sizing as last time, and was just a little more careful to match up the pattern on the pocket. I didn't think to check on the front seam matching -- I should have cut it flat to be sure to get everything lined up. As it is, my fabric wasn't perfectly evenly folded so it's shifted a bit at centre front.

When I tried it on I realized that from a foot or two away, the small print mismatch really isn't noticeable -- the print runs into itself and it's not visually jarring. So I left it.

 Plus, when I cut the bottom band I tried to line it up with the print, but it's still a bit off, but with the same result...not visually disturbing. I think the pattern is uneven enough that it all melds together. 

To make the top view, I simply cut the bodice as it was drafted, and then cut a 7" wide band for the bottom. With it folded in half, and then a 1/2" attachment seam, the actual band is 3" deep. This gives a perfect cropped shape for me, not too short. If I was using a very particular print, I'd probably just lengthen the body by 3" to reduce the pattern matching requirements. Or use a contrast band and collar/facing combo. 

But I think that this worked out pretty well, and I really like the lightness and tiny nod to mushrooms. The shape of the collar is so great on this pattern, too. This will be a fun wear this summer. 

PS - Of course, since this is a quilting cotton, I had to make a matching mask to wear with it at work. I didn't think I'd ever forget how to put together a mask after the hours I spent at it this time last year, but I had to look up the steps again to be sure! 

A Factory Dress for the Literary Sewing Circle

Today is the final day of the "official" Literary Sewing Circle for the fall of 2020. However, I know that quite a few people had delays in getting their hands on the book this time around, so please know that you can still read the book, check out all the posts in this series and comment on them anytime, and if you do make a project, feel free to leave a link in the comments of the wrap-up post. If you are reading this far in the future, sharing your thoughts on the book is still very welcome! 

On to my own project for this round, inspired by The Night Watchman. I read this book first in the spring when it was newly released, and then again for the blog series, and I also listened to the audio version (read by the author, Louise Erdrich) while sewing. So I feel like I am really familiar with this novel and all the many characters who I came to really care about. 

I had many ideas for projects, but ended up going with one that mixed together a few elements of the book. I was taken by the idea of the jewel bearing plant, but couldn't find a good gemstone print to work with (my first idea). So I decided I'd make the Factory Dress by Merchant & Mills, as my nod to Pixie's workplace.

I also chose this bright blue linen from my stash; there are many references to blue in this book, from Pixie's blue coat that she's so proud of, to the family name of Juggie and Bernadette Blue. Wood Mountain's borrowed boxing robe is also blue, and Millie's glorious mission dress is a mix of blue, green & gold.

So all together this is a mix of inspirations, and a project I finally chose from among the many, many ideas I was working with. I'd still like to make something inspired by Thomas' wonderful penmanship, too! 

Now for the sewing details. 

This is a loose fitting dress, so I was careful to search for other makes on Instagram to get a feel for the ease and fit in other's projects before deciding on how I wanted to make mine. This helped give me a sense of the size to cut and any adjustments I might need before cutting. I think I've got it just about right for my sensibilities. 

It wasn't a very difficult dress; the construction is quite logical and well laid out, although the collar did give me some issues with a few puckers near the back shoulders. I don't think I clipped the collar seam well enough before adding the facing. I might go back and add a few clips into the final seam and press again to see it that smooths it out a bit. It's a tiny thing but something to note for next time. 

I wasn't sure if I should add the pocket to the bodice as it's not useful, but decided that it added to the style and so was needed visually. I like how it turned out! 

Otherwise a pretty quick sew. Sleeves are attached flat, the skirt is pleated not gathered so is easy to attach, and overall this was a speedy and enjoyable project. Since I used a looser weave linen, I did finish all the edges of all the pieces before construction, and that was probably the lengthiest element of the entire project. I love the clear blue, and think I might try this as a blouse next, as I really like the fit of the bodice. 

I hope you enjoyed The Night Watchman if you were reading along! Keep your eyes on this space for the next round of the Literary Sewing Circle, anticipated to begin in February or early March 2021.