Repeating Patterns: A Skirt & A Sorbetto

Over the last week I've been working on an outfit consisting of multiple patterns I've made before. My recent Burda Swing Top (#115 11/18) was so much fun to make that I wanted to repeat it in the fancier fabric I had in mind for it all along -- but in order to do that, I'd have to make a couple of pieces that would match the fabric, both in colour and style.

I wanted a straight skirt and a shell to wear under the top, since the fancy fabric for that is a lace.

I went with the infamous Rachel Comey Vogue 1247, which I have made once before. This time I also used leftover fabric from my recently made Burda 6381. This boucle-like fabric is so pretty I wanted to use it up -- and it did use every last bit of it to cut out this skirt. Of course, I did add 6 inches to the length of the skirt as it is notoriously mini!

I had to adjust the sizing somewhat; since I still have my first one I was able to assess it to see how to adapt the fit. I cut it at 18 (the largest size in my pattern) and added about 1/4" at each side by the yoke seams to give myself more hip room. I also shortened the darts by 1/2" each. It's all done except for the skirt hook & eye as I couldn't find the one I thought I had ready for it -- I'm just going to unpick one from an old skirt I haven't worn and reuse it.

I decided to line it, as this fabric really needs a lining. I cut an interior shell with no horizontal seams by overlaying the pattern pieces, and instead of darts, sewed tucks into the lining. Then I basted the lining to the top of the skirt before sewing on the waistband. I also used the lining material for the extra pocket piece to reduce the bulk of the pockets.

My dress form is a little thinner than I am, since I haven't padded her up yet, but even though the skirt looks loose on her, it is a perfect fit for me! I am really happy with it.

Now on to the top -- it's my old stalwart, the Sorbetto by Colette Patterns. I needed a sleeveless shell for this purpose so this is the first sleeveless make in all my Sorbetto variations.

I had the perfect shiny poly in my stash that I'd planned on using for the back of a waistcoat which never got made -- so grabbed it for this. There was *just* enough to fit a sleeveless Sorbetto in. I used French seams to reduce fraying and instead of sewing down the box pleat I sewed an inverted pleat down about 2.5" from the neckline.

The released box pleat on the inside looks so nice I might use that option on the outside of the next Sorbetto I make!

While I won't wear these two alone like this as an outfit (I don't wear sleeveless tops like this usually) I will wear them with the top they are made to support. Which should be shared here soon!

I can wear a lot in my wardrobe with this skirt. I also think I could wear this shiny Sorbetto under a cardigan or blazer in future. I enjoyed trying new versions of these patterns I've made before -- the fit on both of them is much better than previous iterations.  Having these standards in the stash means that when I want a particular shape I can rely on these kinds of patterns. And I got to use up more stash fabric! A win all around.

Spotted Gauze Sorbetto

Hazy summer day!

I bought some double gauze in the sale at my local fabric store -- I've had my eye on this particular bolt for a long while but when I finally decided to buy some there was only one metre left.

So what to do? Make another TNT -- that I way I know it will use the fabric well and it will fit me.

Excuse my squinty eyes -- I just got back from the eye doctor!

So I got out my Sorbetto pattern and went back to a variation I've used before when I have barely a metre of fabric to play with. I lay it out with the pleat placement line for the front actually on the front fold, to eliminate the pleat and fit the top onto limited fabric.

And I use an old add-on short sleeve pattern.

It worked -- it just fit onto this small piece of polka dotted double gauze. I made a few changes due to the fabric though. I sewed it all using French seams, to avoid any fraying or separating along the seam lines. It gives such a nice finish. With a 5/8" seam allowance, I like to sew my first go at 1/4", trim that down to about 1/8" and then finish it off with a 3/8" final seam. Trimming the first line helps to avoid loose threads and fabric coming through the final stitching.

I didn't want to press this much, since I wanted to keep the hand nice and crinkly, so to hem the sleeves and bottom, I stitched a line at 1/4" then just folded it up at that line and over again, finger pressing and then stitching it down. I then gave it all a light press with steam and that got all of the waviness out of the hems.

To finish the neckline, I magically had the perfect denim blue cotton bias binding in my stash that I thrifted a while back. I finished it with the binding and gave it another gentle steam press to get the neckline smoothed out. The binding is slightly heavier in weight that this airy fabric so it did sag outward a bit, but I think the pressing fixed most of that.

This was a straightforward make that I took a little extra time with to use the fabric to its best advantage. I'm glad I went a bit more slowly because I really love this finished top.

Velvet Mash Up Dress

This is a love-hate kind of dress. Love because I adore the fit and the mix of two patterns which turned out just as I'd imagined, and I absolutely love the print & colours of this fabric. Hate because it's a polyester and because of the print I broke my rule about not buying plastic poly, and this fabric sheds fibre like the dickens. It's so bad. I feel environmentally shamed by it.

It's so bad I had to wear a dust mask while sewing it. And when I washed and dried it, I had SO MUCH lint to clear out, more than once.

Other than that confession, I do like the final product.

I used the bodice of the Colette Moneta dress, which I've made twice before. This time the fabric doesn't have quite as much stretch, so it is a little snugger than my others (but I like it). I didn't want any gathering on the skirt with this print, so I matched the bodice up with the skirt of Butterick See & Sew 5870, which I've made in bright magenta ponte and really liked.

They went together beautifully. I only had to square up about an inch all around in size differential. And the shape of this skirt really skims the body -- it's perfect for pear figures, I think. I did add pockets (of course) as I always do. This time I just used a cotton broadcloth scrap for my pocket bags, so they won't stretch out. There isn't a lot of vertical stretch in this fabric either, so it all works together.

After figuring out how to fit these two patterns together and cutting, this went together easily. It was a quick sew, with a turn-under-and-stitch hem at sleeve and skirt, and a neckband sewn on. The neckband actually worked fairly well on my first go this time! I used the formula that another blogger shared -- the size of the neckline opening minus 15% equals the band length. It is good enough that I didn't have to redo this one. Success!

The most difficult part of this project was (and is) the fabric. After all that, it is still shedding! I recall why I don't buy cheap poly velour often, and won't be doing it again. But I can still enjoy the beautiful colours of this, and the fit, nonetheless.

It's so pretty!!

Have you ever made something that you love and hate equally?

Stitched Sorbetto in Grey & Yellow

I've now finished my second Sorbetto that I began back in November. But with this version, I spent a lot more time over it :)

Two things came together for this project: my love of hand embroidery and the new DMC colours, and the front pleat in the Sorbetto pattern, which is extremely ideal for hand stitching additions. In the process of making the pleat, there is a seam all the way down the pleat extension, and then the pleat is fastened down in the neck binding and hem. So there is no way any underside of stitching or stabilizer will show (or get caught on anything) once construction is complete. Perfect.

I was inspired to make this Sorbetto as one of the possible versions for the PR One Pattern, Many Looks contest in Nov/Dec; actually it was the original idea I had for it. But as I mentioned in my last Sorbetto post, contests never get far with me ;) I gave up on the contest idea, but I kept working away at this project, stitching sporadically and sometimes in the evening while watching tv, as you might be able to tell by some of my not so perfect stitching in the petals as I was getting tired! But I wasn't going to tear anything much out -- it's good enough -- it's for a top, not an exhibition piece, and besides, if someone is looking at my stitching in close up on the front of the blouse when I'm wearing it, there are bigger issues than uneven stitches that I'll be worrying about ;)

I made this Vogue 1247 skirt ages ago (in 2014), and as I was cleaning, reorganizing, shuffling (whatever) my stash around in the fall I realized I had quite a large piece of the grey cotton-linen fabric left over. It felt like really nice fabric for stitching, and I considered hooping some up for a decorative piece, but then this idea hit me and I just couldn't do anything else with it. It has a lovely hand and was dreamy to stitch on.

I found a free border floral design at Mary Corbet's embroidery site and adapted it to the size I needed but ended up free styling a bit as transferring the design to this rougher surfaced dark fabric was time consuming. I semi-traced it and semi added in lines with a chalk pencil. I stitched the leaves in my favourite fly stitch, outline/stem stitch for the stems and rough satin stitch for the petals. I enjoyed my time doing it! I used DMC floss #18 for the petals, which I remember because I had such a hard time finding it, and I can't remember the colours of the cream and green, they were just in my stash.

For such a simple project, I feel very pleased with how this turned out. I used my original pre-altered Sorbetto again for the body of this version, but I used the sleeves from the new version of the Sorbetto pattern. I tried to adjust them accordingly -- I took out a fair amount of length between shoulder and bust from the original design, but I couldn't recall exactly (it was about 5 years ago that I first traced the Sorbetto, after all). So there was a bit too much sleeve, but when I gathered the sleeve cap it turned out to look like they were pleated and slightly puffed and I love it so much I left them that way.

Long story for such a simple free pattern (both shirt and embroidery design) but it does get just a little longer. This is the project I had just prepped as some hand work when I was invited to be a part of a super secret project, which is now, this week, no longer secret -- the Sewcialists' Wordpress commercial! It was such fun to be able to help out in a tiny way with this, and the 60 second commercial is full of happy sewing thoughts. Take a look if you haven't watched it already.

A Floral Sorbetto in Winter

Back in mid-November I cut out a couple of Sorbettos, inspired by PatternReview's One Pattern, Many Looks contest. I had a lot of ideas on how I could alter this simple pattern and come up with a bunch of different looks -- I even sketched out 7 different options! But, as usual, I didn't keep going with contest sewing, and started other projects instead.

But this first Sorbetto was half done, so over my Christmas break I hemmed it and put the neck binding on. And it was done!

Please excuse the wrinkles, I forgot to take any photos until the end of the day!

I made this first one of a length of vintage fabric from the thrift store - I think it's some kind of rayon blend as it is soft and drapey but also (obviously) quite prone to creases. I had *just* enough to squeeze out this top, altered to leave out the centre pleat that is a defining feature of the Sorbetto. I tried this version once before and really liked it, and it suits this fabric nicely, I think. I added sleeves using a pattern & blog tutorial originating with Mena of the Sew Weekly. I gave everything a narrow hem, and the fabric did stretch out slightly but not enough to keep me from wearing this.

I used the original Sorbetto pattern, as I'd already made my (quite extensive) fit alterations on that one. But Colette has a new and updated Sorbetto pattern available now, which comes in three different views and has a sleeve pattern included. So I've downloaded that and whenever I get around to it I'll adjust the new one accordingly and give it a go to see what the difference is.

I narrowed the neckline somewhat, as I do find it quite wide. But I like how this pleatless version fits, and the fabric is so light and comfortable, it made me feel like spring was coming even in January! I wore it with another free pattern, my polka dotted Lindy Petal Skirt, which I love, and enjoyed a relatively warmish day to wear this light outfit on (with a cardigan when I was not being photographed!)

This was a fun "unseasonable sewing" project and I'll have another to share later this week that was a little more extensive in detail than this one. I had enough time off over the holidays to get a good start on my unfinished project stack!

Art Deco Moneta

I made my second Moneta this week, having found the most beautiful fabric on the ends table at my local Fabricland. There was only 2 m. of it, and I immediately thought of the Colette Moneta when I saw it; it's a great pattern to highlight a fabric, as there are few interruptions from seams and so on to distract the eye.

The fabric is lightweight, with more horizontal than vertical stretch. It is also really interesting texturally. I don't know what it's called but it's the kind of fabric that has two layers -- when I cut it, the black dots are raised from the base in the middles, they are more textural and crinkly as well. In any case, it's beautiful, reminding me of an Art Deco interpretation of spacetime curvature.

I changed just a few things this time around: I added a sleeve cuff to finish & extend the sleeve slightly. I also fixed the bodice by taking a half inch wedge out of the lower back, tapering to nothing at the side seams, as I found my first one needed a bit of a swayback adjustment. I raised the waistline by half an inch as well to get it to sit at the right place on me. The most obvious change is the neckline: I love my first Moneta, but the neckline is very wide on me, so to avoid bra strap visibility this time, I cut the neckline one inch higher and narrower. I think I could have had the front curve a bit deeper, but I still like it. I finished the neckline with a 1.5 inch facing strip that I stitched down, rather than just turning and stitching, to give it more solidity.

I was fortunate that this week at work, we were all getting official photos taken for publicity purposes. Because I live in a small town I already knew the photographer, having worked on other events he was photographing. When we got to chatting he offered to take photos of my new dress just for my blog if I wore it this week. So of course I rushed to finish and he did! Thank you, thank you to Scott Wishart, a photographer and a gentleman.

Speaking of photography, something I've discovered over the past few years is that I am much less nervous or alarmed at the idea of having my picture taken. I attribute this entirely to the habit of taking pictures of myself for this blog. I know from experience that I'll have to take a lot, and that most of them will be deleted, but that eventually I'll find a few I like. I also know that I look how I look, and no camera can change that for me. I'm owning the reality of my appearance, and not feeling obliged to camouflage or apologize for it. The habit of posting images of myself makes me less self-conscious, since I'm now used to looking at snapshots -- I don't take glamour shots of myself, both because I don't know how, and because I'm not made for traditional glamour, not being tall or willowy! I just share myself as I am. So when these work photos came about, I found I wasn't anxious about how I'd look, as I'm pretty aware already of how I look in photos. Not always the way I wish I did, but the way I am. What about you? Does the habit of taking pictures of yourself in your own clothes make you more comfortable with yourself and your image, or are you still getting used to the idea?

Monthly Stitch Hack It Week: Floral 'Lindeta' Dress

This week at the Monthly Stitch, sewists are challenged to Hack a pattern -- whether that's changing up one pattern or combining a couple. I thought about this challenge, and looked through my fabric and pattern stash, finally deciding on this project.

I started with a pretty dark blue/pale blue/mauve floral knit that was given to me by a friend's Mom who was weeding out her own stash. It's a thin and stable knit, not overly stretchy, but enough so for a comfy fitted dress.

\Lightweight, as shown via the Petal Skirt crossover

I trialled a few ideas, and settled on this combination: an Itch to Stitch Lindy Petal Skirt, with cut-on pockets added, based on the Sewaholic Cambie dress, and a Colette Moneta bodice.  

The bodice was the most straightforward part: I cut my usual size but added a bit of width at the waist to compensate for the lower stretch of this fabric compared to my last Moneta. I also cut the neckline much higher and narrowed it slightly, to give a more retro feel to this make. I used the short sleeve version, and used a bias binding at the neck rather than facings.

Then I got to the skirt. I used the free Lindy Petal Skirt pattern from Itch to Stitch (my first make from this company, btw) and found it well-drafted and with solid instructions. It would have been quite straightforward but I decided to add on some cut-on pockets as I can barely stand to wear pocketless clothing. But I didn't want the pockets to interrupt the lines of the skirt, so cut-on it was.

I used the Cambie pocket design as my base, though I found that I had to reshape the pocket bag to fit this pattern -- only a few inches and different angles here and there. It's still not exactly right but fairly close to what I was going for -- a smooth pocket in this shaped skirt. On my first try, I cut an angle at the side seam on each piece to add the pockets, and only realized as I was putting the skirt front together that it meant that one pocket would be completely covered up under the seam - doh! So on the second try, I cut one layer of the skirt piece normally, and added the pockets to either side of the piece I wanted to go on top of the skirt. That means that on one side you sew through a few more layers than the other, but it works out if your fabric isn't too heavy.

The only real difficulty was with the waistband. I wanted to maintain the waistband of the skirt to give the dress some definition, but had to totally change the construction, as it's not a folded over elastic casing any longer. I basted in on to both skirt and bodice and then tried it on. I had to take about 1.5" out of the full width to make it balance & fit right, and then narrowed the side seams from 3/8" at the skirt edge to 6/8" at the bodice edge (seamed on an angle). This gave it the correct shape and made it fit both edges without any gathering or puckers. I also stitched it down permanently with some clear elastic in the skirt seam to give it some support and structure. I should have interfaced the waistband piece with some knit interfacing but didn't think of that until I was done.

I really like the look of this combination, and the fit is both close and yet comfortable. I am also considering making a detachable collar that I can add to this dress whenever I want to change up the look (something like this one)

I don't think I would have gone to all this effort if it wasn't for the Hack It challenge, so I really do appreciate the impetus to try something new! I really like this new dress.

All my photos were taken on a lovely evening at one of my favourite local churches, St James Anglican Church. I get to walk through this gorgeous garden-filled churchyard on my route to work, always a pleasure. This church has a 15 Bell Chime & gives chime concerts, and it also is the site of the *best* local rummage sale every spring, notorious for multiple rooms chock full of things, including a linens room where I've found many treasures over the years. They have some spectacular volunteer gardeners among their parishioners and I've always wanted to take photos there. I'm glad I finally did...and so are the mosquitoes!