Weekend Review: Willi Smith, Street Couture

 

Willi Smith, Street Couture / Alexandra Cunningham Cameron, ed.
NY: Rizzoli Electa, c2020
256 p.

Willi Smith: Street Couture is a companion to the exhibition Willi Smith: Street Couture, which was very briefly on view in person at Cooper Hewitt in 2020 but has a full online exhibit to experience!

It's a great read in its own right, and it was enjoyable to pore over the images. 

It's made up of 21 different sections, plus an introduction and timeline, and each chapter takes on a different aspect of Willi Smith and his fashion career. From personal recollections to examinations of his design aesthetic, retail growth, creation of sewing patterns, to even a look at the graphic design used by his company Willi Wear, there is a huge variety of intriguing info laid out here. There are also lots of images; Rizzoli does these kinds of books so well. It's a great overview of Willi Smith and the ways in which his designs were shaped, sold and have remained so fresh. 

I really became fascinated with Willi Smith earlier this year when I used a vintage Butterick pattern to make my project for the Black History Month Pattern Designer Challenge. I loved this pattern, and had known a bit about him but I felt that I wanted to learn more. This was a superb resource to do just that! 

I enjoyed the range and the organization of the book. There are discussions of his personal life, his business(es), partners, the actual clothes, his design visions, and a very relevant chapter on his work with McCalls and Butterick and why he believed that sewing patterns were an important part of his business. In that chapter, the authors point out that Willi Smith's mother and grandmother both sewed and he saw that you could be fashionable without being rich -- his position was that his designs were for the everyday person on the street, that they should be accessible. And as part of that, he respected home sewers. In fact, his viewpoint is quoted in this chapter: 

Smith respected the home sewers’ awareness of their bodies and willingness to take risks, and saw this audience as more intimately connected to fashion as a means of individual expression than the ready-to-wear shoppers who followed the colors and trends of the runway. He understood how choosing the pattern, selecting a custom fabric, and assembling the full garment allowed many possibilities for invention.  (you can read the full article about his patterns at the Willi Smith Archive)

I also appreciated that the book covers his strong relationships and support from both his sister Tookie (a model) and his business partner Laurie Mallet. The women in his life were huge supporters who helped him succeed, and it is acknowledged and shown here. There is also a frankness about his personal life as a gay black man in the 80s, which is such a key element of his work as well. And it affected his career, as he was one of the many victims of the AIDS epidemic, dying at far too young an age. 

I'd definitely recommend this book, as it is full of information, personal anecdote, fashion talk, and wonderful images. And if you can't find it, do check the online exhibit as much of it can also be found there. Enjoy! 

Willi Smith + Butterick, for the #bhmpatterndesigners Challenge

I always love participating in the #BHMPatternDesigner Challenge each February. This Black History Month challenge is run mainly on Instagram by @SewNaturalDane and challenges sewists to make something designed by a Black designer - but everyone is welcome to join in. 

This year I decided on a pattern from my stash which I thrifted a while ago. It's a Butterick pattern designed by Willi Smith, the creator of WilliWear in the 80s, who also released many sewing patterns over a decade. In fact, when I was looking up some more information about him, I found this wonderful statement about his opinions of home sewists: 

Smith respected the home sewers’ awareness of their bodies and willingness to take risks, and saw this audience as more intimately connected to fashion as a means of individual expression than the ready-to-wear shoppers who followed the colors and trends of the runway. He understood how choosing the pattern, selecting a custom fabric, and assembling the full garment allowed many possibilities for invention.   (you can read the full article about his patterns at the Willi Smith Archive) 

My Willi Smith pattern is Butterick 5987 -- there's no date but it's likely 1979/1980, before he moved over to McCalls. I loved the blouse so decided that I could make it up in the last few days of February! I had a lightweight cotton in my stash that I've never been able to decide what to do with, but it jumped out at me as the perfect choice for this floaty blouse. 

It's a fairly easy design; it's boxy, with cut on sleeves & no bust darts required. The tricky part of the whole process was the yoke design. It crosses over back and front, and so is installed after the front and back are sewn together at the shoulder. You stitch the underside on kind of in reverse, pressing all the seams onto the yoke, then press the hems of the top yoke under and edge stitch it on top. That may sound simple but my goodness how fiddly! Thankfully my cotton pressed well so some steam averted any minor disasters. I did cut the yoke on the bias so that I wouldn't have to worry about matching up the edges of the squares in the design - it's subtle but I like it.

Once that was done, the rest was pretty straightforward. There's a one piece collar, and the split hem is interesting in that the front edges are curved but the back ones are left straight. This requires some easing as you are pressing in that front hem, but it's worth it. It's a really cute design. 

Didn't notice that my back collar was flipped up! 

I happened to have the perfect buttons in stash as well. I recently thrifted a set of 6 lightweight and square black buttons. They were just the right size and weight, and I like how their shape reflects the print of this fabric. There were only four called for in the pattern but I added another one at the top as I like to be able to close my blouse a little higher. 

I enjoyed sewing this and also enjoyed finding out more about Willi Smith. When I was researching a bit more about him, I discovered that the Cooper Hewitt Museum had created an exhibit about him, Willi Smith: Street Couture, which opened on March 12, 2020. Well, it was only open one day as it happens. But they've created a wonderful website from the exhibit and I strongly recommend you take a look if you want to learn more about this designer and the fabulous things he made. 

 

Weekend Review: By Her Own Design

 

By Her Own Design / Piper Huguley
NY: William Morrow, c2022.
367 p.

This is a novel based on the life of Ann Lowe, a Black designer who sewed for high society; she's probably best known for Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding dress. However, 'best' known is still not widely known, and when author Piper Huguley discovered her story she decided to write a novel to spread her story. 

Huguley has written three earlier novels, all romance, and that shows in this book. The first half of the book, as Ann is growing up and experiencing her two marriages (she was first married at 12 years old), is rich and dense with detail and emotion. The genesis of her desire to be a designer, and the development of her sewing skills at the feet of her mother and grandmother, is all laid out, explaining Ann's devotion to her dreams of being an artist. The relationships between Ann and her mother, grandmother, and sister are deeply drawn, followed with the appeal of her two husbands and then her love for her only son -- all these elements are compelling reading. 

Once Ann has shaken off the relationships that are holding her back, though, and sets a course for her new life in New York, the story moves more quickly, skimming over a lot of the many storied years Ann spent running various shops and designing for a multitude of famous people. There are highlights of some of the most dramatic moments of her later life - the Kennedy wedding dress and a closely averted disaster, the loss of family members, a retrospective gala for her in her later years -- and each moment is certainly affecting. But the second half focuses less on her personal life than the beginning. 

Still, I really enjoyed this book. The writing brought this woman to life, and evokes an era in which her success was much more unlikely than otherwise. Huguley captures small things that really illuminate the wider world, and Ann is a great character to follow through the many changes across the 20th century. And even better, if you're intrigued, you can look into more about the real Ann Lowe and see some of her work after you've finished the novel. I think this is a great introduction to her life and story, and would recommend for any fashion lovers. 

Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge: Simplicity 2344 by Khaliah Ali

 

February was Black History Month and one of the sewing things I love about the month is the Black History Month Pattern Designers challenge. I wrote about this challenge at the beginning of February but just squeaked in my project by the end of the month after all -- I posted it on IG the very last day of the month. 

Even though I bought two new patterns this month with big plans, I ended up using a Khaliah Ali pattern in my stash, Simplicity 2344. 

It's a nice wardrobe pattern with lots of options. I made the tee, as I like the silhouette a lot. It comes with different cup size options and just has a few details like the gathered front neckline and the sleeve that make it a step above a basic tee. 

I really love it. I used an old knit from my stash -- I love the print but was never sure what to do with it. It was the perfect choice for this top. The pattern was a dream to work with. The neckband is amazing; it went in perfectly the first try and sits super smoothly, no gaping or lumps to be found. The little bit of front gathering is just the right amount to give a nice look to the design, as well. 

I cut a 14 at the shoulder, grading out to 16 at bust and 18 at hip -- this is a regular adjustment that I make on many things, and it worked out well here too. I like the way this fits closely but not tightly. My changes to the pattern were just to shorten the top slightly above the waist seam, and to shorten the sleeves by 2.5" (I have short arms!) I also changed the order of construction so that I could sew in the sleeves flat. This worked well and I was able to finish this one fairly quickly! I think this is one I could make again - it's going to get a lot of wear. 

The two patterns that I bought but haven't made up yet are from two different Indie Black designers. I picked up the Temi Top/Dress by Sewphilia, and the Nikki Blazer by Style Sew Me. They are still on my to-sew list, especially the blazer as it really fits in with my wardrobe plans currently.  Lots more to explore!

Black History Month Pattern Designer Challenge Recap!

 

February was, once again, a time to celebrate the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge. I've enjoyed participating in this challenge for the past 3 years and learning so much about Black fashion history, discovering so many Black pattern designers and shop owners (more every year!), and  being inspired by the amazing projects made by the growing number of participants. You can hear both hosts talking about the purpose behind the challenge and how it works, over on Stitch Please and another interview on the Sew Organized Style podcast, if you're curious to learn more.

This year I made the Agnes Pencil Skirt by Michelle Sews. I love it. The fit and the details are both just fantastic. If you want to check out the more than 160 projects made by other participants this year, be sure to take a look at the hashtag on IG!

This year I was also lucky enough to win one of the prizes! The prizes are drawn live at the end of the month, and are awarded by random draw. I'm thrilled that I won a prize package, featuring many of the sponsors and designers highlighted throughout the challenge. 

I wanted to also highlight some of the resources that are currently available on the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge website -- these resources will be staying up all year round, so you can easily pop over and discover some new pattern companies, shops, and more, anytime. I encourage you to do so. The work done by hosts @SewNaturalDane and @IslandSewcialist has elevated this challenge into a year-round resource for everyone! 

This is a super challenge, one I really enjoy. There's a real sense of enjoyment and community, and it's an opportunity to discover new designers, but also to find new makers on IG to follow and be inspired by. I recommend participating in it next year -- you now have a whole year to explore some of the links and projects and make your plans...

It's Agnes, for the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge

For this year's #BHMPatternDesigner challenge, I set myself the task of finally making a well-fitting pencil skirt. I always have problems with skirt fitting for some reason! I found the Agnes Pencil Skirt by Michelle Sews a while back, and decided that this was the time to give it a go - it has all the elements I want in a pencil skirt (pockets!) and I decided that learning to line a skirt, including the back vent, was something I needed to do this month. 

This pattern also spoke to me because it is named Agnes, which was my beloved Gran's name. So I wanted to make it with her in mind. Imagine my surprise when Michelle said that she'd named this pattern after her own grandmother! Extra special :) 

I can't deny it was a bit complicated when it came to that lining. The instructions for this skirt are thorough, and include photos, but I still needed to go to the Agnes sewalong on Michelle Sews' blog and watch the vent lining instruction video a couple of times. In the end, I got it done, not perfectly or fully cleanly but it's all on the inside and staying put so that's good enough for me. The next time I try this, I'm hoping my technique will improve ;) 

Other than that issue, I had no problems with this pattern. I had a great piece of cotton sateen with some stretch, in this fabulous leopard print, which I've been saving for a pencil skirt. It worked out perfectly. I really like this design, as it has so many nice details in it. She includes the option to pipe the edges of the slant pockets, so of course I had to do it. I had some satiny black piping left over from my Jalie Tania coatigan project in 2019, so added it to this project. I love it.

 

The back zip also includes a zip shield, which is very tidy and fancy -- and actually very easy, I think I might add one to many other patterns from now on. The zip stops at the bottom of the waistband and then a hook and eye or a button is added to the waistband. I happened to have a bronze-colour skirt hook and eye handy so used that, since it matches so well.

I think this went together very neatly and logically. As mentioned, I did have some trouble getting my head around how to attach the lining to the vent. So give yourself time to figure that out if needed. The sewalong video is helpful, and of course many sewing reference books on your shelf might also have instructions on this technique if you need more info. 

I always enjoy the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge; be sure to check out the Challenge page, and the hashtag to find out more, and see some of the fantastic outfits others are making up this month. You'll discover some wonderful new Black designers, shop owners and more. There are still a couple of days to take advantage of the discounts and deals many pattern shops are offering for Februrary. I'm happy to have found Michelle Sews and this great pattern to add to my stash. 

February means #BHMPatternDesigners Challenge!

I participated in the Black History Month Pattern Designers (#BHMPatternDesigners) Challenge on Instagram last year and really enjoyed it! I learned so much from the posts that co-hosts @SewNaturalDane and @MyraLorraine were sharing about black fashion history and personalities, and found lots of new current designers as well.

So when they announced that they are running the #BHMPatternDesigners Challenge again this year, I knew I was in! This year they've added in the extra element that participants should think about their own fashion inspiration when they are making their outfits. Hmmmmm, I'll have to ponder that.

Here's the rules, according to the original Instagram post: 

View this post on Instagram

GET READY...GET READY...GET READY!!! Kicking off tomorrow💃🏾 @onesewsweet and I are so happy to announce the 2nd annual #BHMPatternDesigners challenge. Thank you to all of our sponsors: . @mydailythreadzme @sewnmagazine @bayronhandmade @thanksimadethem @sewmuchfabric @stylesewmepatterns @claire_cochran @laststitch @montoyamayo . We are also EXCITED about our 4 FABULOUS Ambassadors: @Lejanarobpatterns @crystalsewsandstuff @crumpetsteaandsewing @islandsewcialist . PLEASE GOT TO MY HIGHLIGHTS ☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽 to see the various Black Pattern Designers. ***THIS IS NOT AN ALL INCLUSIVE LIST*** . Rules for entry: . 1. YOU MUST MUST MUST tag @onesewsweet and @sewnaturaldane AND use the #BHMPATTERNDESIGNERS in order to have your entry counted. . 2. You can ONLY SEW & POST your item (garments, handbag, knitting item, etc) between February 1st and February 29th. Your entry is due February 29th. . 3. You can ONLY use a Black Pattern Designer. **LET'S HAVE SOME FUN AND GOOD LUCK***

A post shared by Pronounced = Nah-Tea-Duh 😉😉 (@sewnaturaldane) on Jan 31, 2020 at 11:49am PST

Last year I used a Tracy Reese pattern from my stash; this year I'm looking at the variety of Khaliah Ali patterns I also have in my stash and have never made up. These patterns are great value, as many of them are wardrobe patterns. You could make yourself a nice capsule wardrobe using these.

I'm thinking that I'll make the longer sleeved blouse (yellow floral print version) from 2230 in this rayon challis from my stash:

And then maybe try adding the skirt from 2344, either in a neutral black or in a hot magenta from my stash that will pull that tone from the blouse. The gathered neck tee from 2344 is also a great shape, and in a navy print from the stash it might go with my next item too.

And that item is, if I have time, another jumper! View A from 2232 (but in knee length) would be nice in a navy blue suiting that I've had in the stash for a long time. That seems like an awful lot to try to get to, but hey, February has an extra day this year ;)

My real goal is to get the blouse done and we will see how it goes from there. Meanwhile, don't forget to check out the Instagram accounts of both hosts and their ambassadors for lots of great #BHMPatternDesigner Challenge content!

Weekend Review: Threads of Time, the Fabric of History

Threads of Time, the Fabric of History / Rosemary E. Reed Miller (3rd ed)
T & S Press, c2011
152 p.

Over on Instagram, @OneSewSweet & @NaturalDane are hosting a Black History Month Pattern Designers sewing challenge this month -- find it at #BHMPatternDesigners. How marvellous!

They've been starting things off by featuring various black designers throughout January, and I've been discovering many new options through their profiles. But then I remembered this book -- and was able to find it via Interlibrary Loan.

So to celebrate the beginning of #BHMPatternDesigners, here are some of my thoughts on Threads of Time, the Fabric of History.

This is a book put together by Rosemary Reed Miller based on a presentation she shares locally and with community groups across the US. As she says in the intro, one day someone from a Friends of the Library Group asked her if she could have a book available to sell after the presentation, and the seeds of this book were sown.

It is a series of vignettes about black designers and activists of all kinds -- from seamstresses to fashion designers, milliners, quilters and more. There isn't actually as much info on the sewing side of things as I had expected from the subtitle; it's more about women who happened to be seamstresses to support their social justice work, mostly. It's all extremely interesting, and I learned a lot of new names to research, as their lives were briefly sketched out here and now I want to know more.

There are also a number of photographs included, though they are all black & white images. The book is self-published (T & S Press stands for Toast & Strawberries, the Washington DC boutique that Miller has run for decades). Because of Miller's long-standing residence in Washington, there is a fair amount of focus on that region and politics & history. The origins of the book as a presentation are clear both through this regional focus and in the very casual style, which sounds like someone speaking. This is both engaging and confusing; at times a little more explanation or detail would have added a lot to a story, and I'm sure that's the kind of thing that would come up when talking to people and responding to questions.

The self-publication route also shows in the lack of an editor's eye: there are many typos, misspellings of names, and the layout is not optimal. However, the level of interest of the content makes this a worthwhile book to look for. It's a series of brief encounters of women's lives, women who have often been overlooked yet played a big part in the development of black life through fashion and design.

I really enjoyed learning from this book and appreciated the wide variety of lives profiled, from traditional seamstresses to beauty entrepreneurs to social activists to contemporary fashion designers like Tracy Reese. If you are looking just for sewing history, this isn't it. But if you're looking for a wider view of how sewing has been rolled into so many women's lives for so many different purposes, give this one a try.