Weekend Review: Made to Measure

 

Made to Measure / Elisalex Jewell 
Beverly, MA: Quarto, c2023.
176 p.

I was recently able to find myself a copy of this book by Elisalex Jewell, who also runs By Hand London - a well established pattern company. I was interested in this one because it does not include "patterns", rather it's a look at drafting your own simple patterns using your own measurements. I appreciated that this idea was carried through to the samples and photos, using models of various sizes and shapes to demonstrate the idea well. 

The concept of this book is to empower sewists to make their own outfits based on their measurements from the beginning rather than altering a purchased pattern. However, the book does begin with some tips on fitting issues and solutions, in case the drafts need some tweaking. I'd rate this as a book for the advanced beginner, or a fearless beginner, looking to improve or widen their range of skills. I would call myself an intermediate sewist, and I think there are great ideas in here that I haven't tried yet. 

It starts with an intro to basic tools, fabrics and techniques. Then it moves on to fitting tips, including a layout about shoulder slope which I think is so important to fit and doesn't often get mentioned. This section is practical and condensed but I think of great use to a newer sewist. There are also tips on hacks to basic designs (ie: sleeves) and a guide to taking your measurements. And in this section she also includes a circle skirt calculator & instructions for a quick make. 

The rest of the book is the 16 patternless projects. These are made up of plenty of dresses and skirts, but also include a top and a couple of jumpsuits. Each features at least one photo (on varied models), drafting instructions with diagrams, sewing steps with diagrams, and some alternative ideas to personalize the project with a different neckline, sleeve, etc. They are clearly laid out and look appealing in the samples. I'm particularly interested in the Willow Wrap dress (not a wrap bodice but a skirt that wraps around and ties in the front) or the reversible blouse. I found the projects were modern but classic for the most part, and so this book could be useful for a longer time than if the projects were super trendy. 

I thought this was a pretty solid book and hope to be able to test out some of the designs this year.