Checkerboard Print and a Burda Skirt

 

I saw a checkerboard print cotton at the fabric store a few months ago. It was in the craft canvas section, but it's a nice weight for structured sewing. So I immediately decided I'd make a skirt from it. It's only taken me about 4 months to get to it! I started work on this skirt and liked the fabric so much that I went back and bought another 1.5 m so I can make a matching jacket...hopefully it won't take another 6 months to get that done ;)

I used the Burda 109-11-2019 pattern that I made a first sample of in black in September. I saw from that make the changes I'd have to make to this one to get it right. There were quite a number of small changes that all together have improved the fit and finish of this one immensely. One of the details of the original pattern was adding D-rings to the waistband but I found it was too much with this print, so I left them off. An extra detail that I did add, however, was a line of satin piping on the pocket opening edges.

I found that I needed to take in the waist by nearly 3" on the original, so I made changes on the pattern, widening the dart intake and shaving 1/2" off each side seam. The fit is now really nice. I also completely changed the construction order and steps to finish this lovely lined skirt in the way I prefer to do it, not by the original Burda instructions which I found fiddly and messy. 

I moved the zipper down to finish at the bottom of the waistband, and added an overlap for a button to the length of the waistband. Zipping up an invisible zip through a sturdy, multilayer waistband is not my favourite thing to do -- it always feels like it's about to break. So I like a buttoned/hook and eye waistband instead. 

This meant that I had to change the lining attachment process as well. I put in the invisible zip, and before stitching up the rest of the skirt seam, I sewed the lining to the zip and flipped it to the inside. Then I baste the top of the lining to the top of the skirt, and sew up both skirt and lining seams below the zip. After I attach the waistband, I fold the inner edge down over the lining and hand stitch it. It might take a little longer but it is SO TIDY. I really like the smooth interior finish done this way.

Then it was just a hem and hand stitching the lining to the edges of the back kick pleat. I had to look up kick pleat instructions online for a refresher, and found a few new ways of doing it...I stuck with the classic here, but there are some neat options for future I'm going to try. Always something new to learn. 

I love this skirt! It turned out like I imagined it, and I'm really looking forward to making the jacket because a matched set in this print is going to be wild. I have lots of bright jackets to wear this with already, including this red one that really shouts 80s in this combo, to me. That's a plus, by the way ;) 

One more piece done in my "Bold Playful Power Suit" wardrobe theme for this fall.