Caved to the Cambie

Yes, I've done it. I have finally made myself a Sewaholic Cambie! I've always loved this pattern, and a month and a bit ago I finally caved and bought the pattern. A digital pattern, so I was a bit slow off the start, having to print and tape and trace...but the Cambie was worth it.

A summer dress for a summery day in MAY!

I used a recently purchased cotton print -- I am in love with black-based floral prints this year. I lined it with a lightweight black broadcloth. I probably should have gone all out and used voile but it was a tad expensive for my first go-round. Now that I know how much I freaking love this pattern, I will be willing to spend a lot more on really nice fabrics for the next try.

This dress took me a while to make, as I was hesitant at nearly every step. Lots new to me, but once I did each step, nothing was actually hard to do. I absolutely loved the technique to add the lining to the invisible zip first. It looks fantastic and is so much easier than hand stitching down the whole thing. I also really liked the little touches like the lovely pockets, and the inside waistband cut from fashion fabric instead of lining. It's so pretty ;)

Inner Waistband

Sewaholic patterns are drafted for the pear-shaped figure -- which I am, and boy, does it make a difference. I made Version A, with the A-line skirt, not the full one, and it is super comfortable and flattering. There were a few alterations that I made to the pattern. First, I took a half-inch tuck out of the back armhole of the right side. When I made a bodice muslin, the right side gaped quite a bit; another result of my wonky shoulder. I folded a tuck from 1/2" at the back armhole edge to nothing by about the middle of the right back bodice piece. Because there was no corresponding sleeve measurement to worry about this worked just fine. I ended up also tucking the sleeve/strap in by far more than the 5/8" seam allowance, at the final step. I think I tucked each in by just over an inch, but then I usually shorten between bust and shoulder so that makes sense. I absolutely love the way it fits.

I also broke out my blind hem foot for the first time on my new Janome. It took a few tries on scraps to get the feel for it, but I'm so glad I used it. I really didn't want a hem that was just folded under and straight stitched, as I felt it might affect the hang or look of the skirt. And since everything else about this dress is so nicely finished, I was going to hand sew the hem. But then took a chance on the blind hem and it worked really well.

Blind hem!

 I also used the correct invisible zip foot, new also, and it made ALL the difference. I can't believe this invisible zip.

My 1st invisible zip that is truly invisible

Next go I will also pinch out an inch at centre front; this time I took a tuck just beside each strap to reduce the front centre gape. My fabric is so busy you really can't tell. And, oh, of course -- the other alteration I made was to change the front neckline from a sweetheart line to a straight neckline. I just can't get behind the sweetheart shape on me.

Love this neckline!

Thankfully the Sewaholic Cambie sewalong posts had tons of extra info, like how to change the neckline, and how to attach the lining to the zip, both of which I read through a couple of times to get going. I found the pattern well made and easy to understand, and I simply love the full lining and all the really excellent details in this pattern. I'm quite proud of this finished dress, the first in my all-out attack on my stack of wished-for summer dresses!

Random shoe view :)